A Proper Valve Shim Calculator

Started by EEL, March 14, 2017, 10:03:51 AM

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EEL

I'm working on a excel file for a valve shim calculator for 2V motors that would make servicing and shim selection VERY easy.

Note: Its geared for Imperial units for gap clearances but converts to metric for shim selection.

Comments appreciated from the experts.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_STCUCDZWcIdUd0Sms0dEhTMEk?usp=sharing




ducpainter

Does the one we have already not meet the requirements?
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



EEL

I wanted to kick it up a notch and make it a bit more user friendly for newbies.

Take a look at it..

DarkMonster620

would be nice if either would work in mm also . . . I really do not know inches
Carlos
I said I was smart, never that I had my shit together
Quote from: ducatiz on March 27, 2014, 08:34:34 AMDucati is the pretty girl that can't walk in heels without stumbling. I still love her.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."

ducpainter

#4
Too busy for this old guy, and not to be critical, but spelling is important, to me anyway.

I use paper and pencil...I know...not very fashionable.

If you make it I'll be happy to post it up.

edited to add...

the change in units between measurement and result makes no sense, again to me anyway
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



EEL

Quote from: DarkMonster620 on March 14, 2017, 10:28:40 AM
would be nice if either would work in mm also . . . I really do not know inches

I was thinking about putting a check box for metric and Imperial that would switch measurement systems. The shim calculated info would remain the same but the inputs for gap measurements and shim sizes would change.

One other feature that I found beneficial is the formulas auto round to the nearest .05mm shim increment.  Random example: you most likely wont be able to buy a 2.63mm shim but you probably can get a 2.65mm. So the formulas tell you to buy the next up. For the rounding feature, I wanted to put in a tolerance factor as well. So if you need a 2.61mm shim to get clearance instead of sanding down from a 2.65mm if it falls into a tolerance of .0005 inches, it will still suggest the 2.60mm. I'm going to set up a feature to make this "tolerance" user adjustable.




EEL

#6
Quote from: ducpainter on March 14, 2017, 10:35:02 AM
Too busy for this old guy, and not to be critical, but spelling is important, to me anyway.

I use paper and pencil...I know...not very fashionable.

If you make it I'll be happy to post it up.

edited to add...

the change in units between measurement and result makes no sense, again to me anyway

1) what the heck did I spell wrong? I'm pretty picky about that too!

2) In the US, finding good metric feeler gauges is a chore and expensive. I will add the metric translation.

3) I used to be pen and paper guy as well. The only problem is my paper would be smudged with grease and crap by the time my work was done and I would inevitably lose the info by the time the next adjustment was due. This file would act as a record I can digitally store so I don't have to take the shims off and re-measure them, just measure the gap and order new ones.


ducpainter

Quote from: EEL on March 14, 2017, 10:54:48 AM
1) what the heck did I spell wrong? I'm pretty picky about that too!

2) In the US, finding good metric feeler gauges is a chore and expensive. I will add the metric translation.

3) I used to be pen and paper guy as well. The only problem is my paper would be smudged with grease and crap by the time my work was done and I would inevitably lose the info by the time the next adjustment was due. This file would act as a record I can digitally store so I don't have to take the shims off and re-measure them, just measure the gap and order new ones.


1) Impute ???  Maybe Input, or it's an engineering term I've never heard.

2) I have feeler gauges older than most people on this forum, I bought my first set in 1969, and they have both imperial and metric units. Most digital vernier calipers also measure in both units. I don't see that as a huge issue, but again, that's just me. In my mind, anyone that's going to do the job will be willing to buy metric gauges, and keeping the units constant eliminates conversion and chance of error.

3) I'm not that organized. I'd blow up the computer before the next adjustment and lose the file. :P I was a wire monkey for a while, and at apprentice school we had to do all our calculations out longhand to simulate being on a job site with a calculator with a dead battery. It's just what I'm used to.

To be really technical, Ducati shims aren't hardened, and can wear. Also different suppliers have different standards of tolerance. It's why we check our work after all the calculations. It also seems that when doing valves, once you adjust the closer, the opener seems to change. I'm just saying that until you eliminate the fool, nothing is foolproof.

Most of what I'm saying is just personal preference. Your calculator is certainly more appealing than what we currently have.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



EEL

Quote from: ducpainter on March 14, 2017, 11:18:07 AM
1) Impute ???  Maybe Input, or it's an engineering term I've never heard.

2) I have feeler gauges older than most people on this forum, I bought my first set in 1969, and they have both imperial and metric units. Most digital vernier calipers also measure in both units. I don't see that as a huge issue, but again, that's just me. In my mind, anyone that's going to do the job will be willing to buy metric gauges, and keeping the units constant eliminates conversion and chance of error.

3) I'm not that organized. I'd blow up the computer before the next adjustment and lose the file. :P I was a wire monkey for a while, and at apprentice school we had to do all our calculations out longhand to simulate being on a job site with a calculator with a dead battery. It's just what I'm used to.

To be really technical, Ducati shims aren't hardened, and can wear. Also different suppliers have different standards of tolerance. It's why we check our work after all the calculations. It also seems that when doing valves, once you adjust the closer, the opener seems to change. I'm just saying that until you eliminate the fool, nothing is foolproof.

Most of what I'm saying is just personal preference. Your calculator is certainly more appealing than what we currently have.

Word of the day:

Impute:
"assign (a value) to something by inference from the value of the products or processes to which it contributes"

Good info below on the opener shim. If you'll notice, I have a "recommendations" column thrown into each valve thats forthcoming. My goal will be to automatically spit out insight, like what you just posted, depending on the condition that can be referenced to a legend at the bottom of the sheet.

ducpainter

Quote from: EEL on March 14, 2017, 11:48:49 AM
Word of the day:

Impute:
"assign (a value) to something by inference from the value of the products or processes to which it contributes"

Good info below on the opener shim. If you'll notice, I have a "recommendations" column thrown into each valve thats forthcoming. My goal will be to automatically spit out insight, like what you just posted, depending on the condition that can be referenced to a legend at the bottom of the sheet.
I learned a new word. I don't know if I should thank you, or not. [laugh]

The value was measured, and entered into a blank field, not assigned. I think input is more appropriate. It's your calculator, however, and since it's a real word, with no need for mincing, you go for it. [thumbsup]

I still think you should keep the units constant throughout, but again, it's your gig.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



EEL

Quote from: ducpainter on March 14, 2017, 11:55:52 AM
I still think you should keep the units constant throughout, but again, it's your gig.

I'll make sure the mm's get added. I definitely wont change the shims to Imperial. That's pointless since they will never be bought in that fashion.

chipripper

I will share mine, in the hopes it helps you make yours. It is populated with my measurements and notes from my recent 12K service. Like many others, I had worked it out on paper, but I transferred it here for easy storage/future reference, and to double check my notes.

-HTH

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Y6jaHbrN66NkZoRGMtbmg1ZUE/view?usp=sharing
2008 S2R1000 black and white, mostly stock ;-)
Marving header, Velocity stacks, Pod filters, Flashed ECU to DP map, Polished valve covers and cam covers, SSR reverse shifter and inspection cover, Aelle adjustable pegs, Windscreen and cowl removal, Many plastic bits removed, Cut beer tray

EEL

I appreciate the reference. I'm realizing that a lot of people have loaded unloaded measurements noted. Are you the type to measure the closer clearance at the opener shim by loading the closing rocker arm down? I tend to directly measure under the closer shim itself.

I see you are like me. Measure in inches and convert to mm. Glad to know I'm not the only crazy one!

As with you I utilized Mike G (EMSDuc) template as a starter but I'm setting it up for as much flexibility as possible.

I think I'll have the metric option done this weekend. So far, I've been able to put a form field (check box) into the excel file which if checked, changes all formulas and labeling to metric inputs. Unchecked switches back to measurements in Imperial units for gap measurements only.

I like your idea of having a notes section per valve. That would prove useful for tracking history and issues.

I'll try to eventually fit a form field checkbox to convert the loaded / unloaded style of measurements as well.




chipripper

Doing openers is straight forward, just measure and lap your shims. For the closers, I always measure indirect first then measure the gap directly to figure out what shims to buy. The problem is there is no .000 feeler gauge to measure the gap with the new shims. To get it really good, I remove the opening rockers, so I can turn the cam with the closer in place. Then I install a shim that causes drag, and lap the shim till the drag is gone but the smallest feeler still won't fit. Then I just call that .000" There is also a thousandth or so fudge factor based on new half-rings etc. so perfect always ends up as good-enough.

I wish I could measure stuff in metric. I am really good at maths, but I was raised to measure everything in imperial units or football fields.
2008 S2R1000 black and white, mostly stock ;-)
Marving header, Velocity stacks, Pod filters, Flashed ECU to DP map, Polished valve covers and cam covers, SSR reverse shifter and inspection cover, Aelle adjustable pegs, Windscreen and cowl removal, Many plastic bits removed, Cut beer tray

EEL

Yeah. I have the 1100 EVO motor. I used to do EXACTLY what you just said on my old S2R 800. On that motor, you don't need to pull the cam off, just shift it over and the entire lobe spins. They narrowed the head on the 1000's and 1100's which made it more difficult.

My friends bike ran great. When we pulled it apart to do the valve adjust, the closers were off on the level of .007-.008 gap.

If they can run at that level of sloppiness, I'm sure .002 and calling it good is fine.