TPS- what's the position supposed to be

[booger]

Just got the bike put back together with the reflashed ECU and had to reset the TPS, it was at 2.9 degrees. Reset with GuzziDiag, and its now at 2.6. What is it supposed to be? Bike started and seems to run well. Also can anyone tell me the normal idle speed? It idles at ~1500. 2007 S4RT- thanks

[booger]

LOL is this on

[koko64]

I dont know off hand, but have you checked the bikeboy.org site for tps settings? A wealth of information there. Factory workshop manual?

[Dirty Duc]

So, as I understand it, the actual position of the TPS reading isn't particularly relevant. When you "reset" it, you basically tell the computer (ECU) that the current position equals zero. The interface between the throttle plates and the sensor bits is plastic, and microscopic wear might have an effect.

[Speeddog]

So, as I understand it, the actual position of the TPS reading isn't particularly relevant. When you "reset" it, you basically tell the computer (ECU) that the current position equals zero. The interface between the throttle plates and the sensor bits is plastic, and microscopic wear might have an effect.

More or less right.

The TPS reset tells the computer that "whatever the TPS voltage reading is right now, use that as 2.6 degrees* throttle opening".
* - The actual number varies by model

Whether this actually sets it *correctly* is based on the precarious assumption that the throttle blade position is correct.
If anyone has ever altered the throttle stop screw position, then the TPS will not actually be set correctly.
Brad Black has a detailed setting procedure here: http://www.bikeboy.org/ducatitps.html

Idle speed is controlled directly by the ECU via the idle air servo valve.
On some models, the idle speed is user adjustable, not sure if the S4Rs is or not.

I'm working with an uncooperative S4Rs now, if I find out anything relevant to this thread, I'll post it up.

[booger]

Thanks for all replies. Speeddog what are you using in your shop to sync TBs? I have a Twinmax and I swear I hate that thing. Just want to find a pair of simple vacuum gauges and I got a set off Amazon but they sucked (too cheapo, zero adjustment screw was fuxxed) so I sent them back. Bike's lumpy and snatchy below 3500 so I'd like to do what I can to smooth it out. Air bleeds on this bike may have been touched, vert cyl is all the way in and horiz is like maybe 3 turns out.

[Speeddog]

I'm using a simple manometer with ATF in it.

Close the air bleed screws, and disconnect and plug the hose for the idle air valve.
Then you can actually sync the TB's themselves.
You'll need to shim between the throttle stop screw and the cable spool to get it to idle.

[booger]

I'm using a simple manometer with ATF in it.

Close the air bleed screws, and disconnect and plug the hose for the idle air valve.
Then you can actually sync the TB's themselves.
You'll need to shim between the throttle stop screw and the cable spool to get it to idle.

Thanks Speeddog. So I guess the idle air valve interferes with throttle balancing somehow? Is this IAV the same as the stepper motor? If so it figures that if the valve is constantly working in real time to control idle then setting the throttle balance properly could never work. Also, looking at the parts manual the stepper motor has three hoses. Any more detailed advice on this would be really helpful, like I can probably figure out how to rig the throttle to idle but which hose to disconnect and plug is where I'm lost.

[Speeddog]

The hose that connects to the fitting on the bottom of the airbox.

Pull the hose off of the fitting, and plug that end of the hose.

[itsamonster]

I'm reading this with interest speeddog, keep the useful info coming.
Cheers.

[booger]

Yeah thanks Speeddog