FRONT BRAKE LEVER - NO BRAKE LIGHT

[greenohawk69]

Previously, the bike (97 M900) was working fine, including the rear tailight (LED, Vizi-Tec Supanova).

On tuning run, heard a pop (fuse for head- / tailight blew) and bike stopped running.

Fixed broken wires and got the LED headlight to work again (popped the fuse twice) with the OEM halogen tailight. The LED tailight does not work at all.

OEM Tailight and LED license plate tailight light up as running lights and work with the rear brake pedal.

Using the front brake lever, I get zero brake lights. The cable that connects to the front lever is approximately two years old.

Do I need to replace that cable? If no, how do I test this?

It worked fine prior to this pop sound and the rear LED tailight not working.

[Speeddog]

Which model & year of Ducati is it?

[greenohawk69]

Which model & year of Ducati is it?

97 M900

[ducpainter]

Check to make sure the nylon dowel that activates the switch is free to move in the master.

[Howie]

Follow the wires from the switch to the main harness.  Bridge the two connectors on the harness side.  Turn the key on.  Brake light on?  Bad switch, switch adjustment or sticking dowel, as suggested by dp.

[greenohawk69]

Follow the wires from the switch to the main harness.  Bridge the two connectors on the harness side.  Turn the key on.  Brake light on?  Bad switch, switch adjustment or sticking dowel, as suggested by dp.

Please explain the "bridging the two connectors on the harness side?"

Only the red/gray wire goes to a wire harness, that connects to the tailight. The purple/black wire connects to the rear brake pedal switch, #5 on the fuse box and the horn.

I pulled the switch and pressed the button with the boke bike on, but it did not work. The rear brake pedal worked.

Attached are two pictures of a wiring diagram.

[Howie]

Forget the wiring diagram for now.  If you follow the two wires down from the switch you will come to a pair of bullet connectors.  That is where the switch connects to the harness.  Disconnect them.  Connect the two wires at the harness with a wire, cotter pin or whatever.  That wire now acts as a closed switch.

[greenohawk69]

Forget the wiring diagram for now.  If you follow the two wires down from the switch you will come to a pair of bullet connectors.  That is where the switch connects to the harness.  Disconnect them.  Connect the two wires at the harness with a wire, cotter pin or whatever.  That wire now acts as a closed switch.

Ok, now I understand. I was going further down the wire loom. Lol. Thanks.

[greenohawk69]

The bridging "worked" - bad switch. Thanks.

[Speeddog]

Check to make sure the nylon dowel that activates the switch is free to move in the master.

Did you check this?

[Howie]

And the adjustment?

[greenohawk69]

Did you check this?

Yes I did check that the dowel moved. Could also feel it with my finger. I had pulled the switch off also and pressed the button to see if it worked by itself, but it did not. Ordered switch from Gotham Cycles for $20.

[greenohawk69]

And the adjustment?

Not sure I follow?

[Howie]

Well, you did successfully diagnose the faulty switch so it is good you found one.  Now, when you go to install the switch you will find it is held in place with two 1 mm. screws,  do not loose them or the nuts.  The holes they go in on the master are notably bigger.  This allows the switch to be moved, and is your adjustment.

[greenohawk69]

Well, you did successfully diagnose the faulty switch so it is good you found one.  Now, when you go to install the switch you will find it is held in place with two 1 mm. screws,  do not loose them or the nuts.  The holes they go in on the master are notably bigger.  This allows the switch to be moved, and is your adjustment.

Thanks. There are very small.