Another eng swap thread:(Edit: no longer considering EFI, upgrading 750 engine

[LowercaseJake]

Searched the webz and apparently I'm the only person having difficulty installing a damn flywheel. Smdh, pathetic.

[LowercaseJake]

I figured out the correct "notch" as there's really only one, the damn thing just will not seat into the flange of the starter gear... I'm completely flummoxed.

[Duck-Stew]

How far 'out' is the flywheel assembly sitting (as opposed to where it “should be”?

Is it ~1/4”?  Is it ~1/8”?

There's a caged roller bearing and a thin flat washer in the mix too.  Try putting the caged roller bearing on the crank now so that it fits into the small recess in the crank timing gear and then slide the thin (and important) washer over the caged roller bearing so that it sits flush with the crank timing gear.  Now try installing the flywheel assembly.

[LowercaseJake]

How far 'out' is the flywheel assembly sitting (as opposed to where it “should be”?

Is it ~1/4”?  Is it ~1/8”?

There's a caged roller bearing and a thin flat washer in the mix too.  Try putting the caged roller bearing on the crank now so that it fits into the small recess in the crank timing gear and then slide the thin (and important) washer over the caged roller bearing so that it sits flush with the crank timing gear.  Now try installing the flywheel assembly.

I'm determining where it should be, by whether or not the starter clutch gear is aligned with the starter motor gear. Here's a couple photos I took before removing the original FW:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KTAgEMK1iP1vUH1j2

Second pic is exactly what I *can't* accomplish with the Nichols FW, note the starter clutch gear and the starter motor gear are happily mated:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/C1b8wGR9cSySxaBp1

Where I've drawn several arrows is the primary gear that rides on the crank, that I accidentally dislodged. And I'm positive I didn't put it back the way it was before. This is obviously going to affect cam timing:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yMfK5M1MJdrUOonE2

I've never changed belts or done valves myself so I don't have any idea how those gears should align, and I don't see any obvious marks to line up. But since that bigger gear rotates the belts, I'm betting it important to get it right.

That's a new self inflicted wound. As for installing the FW: yes there's a caged bearing with a top hat flange inside that rides against the thin and important washer you're talking about. I've tried the following 2 methods unsuccessfully:

Install the starter clutch gear first, over the caged bearing/flange/washer/ assembly, then attempt to slide the new FW onto the crank, with the sprag going into her proper home around that assembly send the starter clutch gear aligned with the starter motor gear. No dice.

Install the large starter clutch gear snugly into the sprag, then attempt to get the whole unit to slide over the caged bearing. No joy.

So what you're suggesting is to basically put everything on at once and fitting it all as one piece? Sprag clutch gear flange inside the sprag, caged bearing and it's flange on the other side, maybe use a dab of grease on the tin washer at the end of the crank to hold it in place while I try this?

What about the misalignment I caused with the primary gear sliding off its keyway? Won't my timing be completely off now?

Thanks... I know it's obvious I'm ignorant but I'm willing to learn... If I can safely DIY this job I'd much prefer that route...

[Duck-Stew]

Go to Ducati Omaha's website.  There's a link to OEM parts.  Look up a 2001 M750 (same as yours b/c it's carbureted).  The parts breakdown should outline how each part gets assembled.

Try removing the crank timing gear and see if there's anything back there causing it not to seat flush against the crank.

[greenmonster]

I think you do need a Haynes manual.
You seem eager to learn.
Not all things are easily explained here in our Forum.
Tinkered w bikes f over 30 years now, I use manuals almost every time, to check torque,
avoid "I can myself" dumb mistakes etc.

[LowercaseJake]

Thanks guys, I have the Haynes manual as well as one by LT Snyder and a parts diagram I downloaded, printed and coil bound.

Stew - when I started thus job everything inside the case was virgin... I could tell by the thin, perfectly laid down bead of three bond on the case. Are you suggesting I remove the small cog that rides on the crank that I already accidentally dislodged? It only got dislodged in the first place by my inability to get this new FW on.

Most importantly right now, how do I make absolutely certain I have that cog properly aligned with the larger gear that rotates the belts? If I F that up I'll F my engine up.

Thank you all for your help and please refer to the photo links I posted. Getting the ignition trigger bracket bolted on properly will be another adventure since my sharpie marks immediately got washed off with oil, smh. But right now I gotta make sure that crank bearing is right before I worry about anything else, it's by far the most crucial part of this adventure.

As this "what should've been a simple job" becomes more complex, I'm becoming even more determined to do more than simply put a light FW in this engine. Belts are coming off for a valve job and replacement anyway, I gotta do more... I hate the thought of riding a stock motorcycle.

[greenmonster]

http://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/Engine/AlternatorCover2.html

[Duck-Stew]

Yes. Remove the gear and look behind it.  The photo greenmonster posted is of an older bike but the dots are similar for your engine.

[LowercaseJake]

Yes. Remove the gear and look behind it.  The photo greenmonster posted is of an older bike but the dots are similar for your engine.

Stew, the bike was basically virgin inside, I don't even think the stator cover had ever been off. Removing that gear shows nothing strange, no foreign objects etc. Just the primary bearing.

As far as those alignment dots... It appears as long as I count 4 teeth from where they mesh on each gear, like the photo shows I'm golden. Hopefully that's the same as on a newer 3 phase bike.

Later tonight I'll attempt to put everything, cage bearing with flange and all inside the sprag and hopefully get it on as one unit. I added some grease to the sprag as it does take a little wiggling and rotating for the starter gear flange to smoothly enter the inside of the sprag. I just think it's a matter of wiggling this chit into place, and the tolerances are tight so there's not much room for error.

Also, Stew... That main crank bearing sits fine and aligns perfectly with the cam belt pulley gear.

[greenmonster]

In your pic,
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPS14NFpUZxkftDCqPMBO2nZOyZNrm458CRc4M5deJHLqyP2zY4cgq2Hh748ZCh6w/photo/AF1QipPKg0HeI1sWGW74peMcBAg0ASRV2cEK2Fz-Ij94?key=dXJuNXpGcWVTWE50dVN6SnI0RUg5WVJtcE5URktn
I see dots on both cogs.

Starter crank cog & starter motor cog do not need to align, just hook up.
Cogs in my pic need alignment.
AND, if cam drive gear is properly mounted, crank cam gear can`t be wrong, due to its key.
And you haven`t unmounted cam drive gear or?

And do secure the big washer in my pic w grease on the back so it doesn`t slip forward.
If so, crank end will swing abit at end and kill bearing in alt cover.

[LowercaseJake]

http://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/Engine/AlternatorCover2.html

OK so should the camshaft and crankshaft dots align, or be spaced the same number of teeth as in the photo?

[LowercaseJake]

Nevermind, just realized what a foolish question that was. In other words, looking at this photo, am I good?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/X2pKuElN5vQiJ70l1

[ducpainter]

Yes.

[LowercaseJake]

Ok the engine rotates fine, nothing colliding. I'm comfortable I lined the gears up correctly. But back to the FW. This is as far as it'll go. It will engage the gears, but it doesn't sit flush as you'd expect and want it to. When I install the large sprag gear, it has no issue meshing with the teeth whatsoever. Another pic;

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XU4pQ0e85ojgcb7p1