How to enjoy winter riding on your Ducati Monster

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That’s right.
As the title says, this is about having fun on your favorite back road twisties, in winter season, on your beloved Ducati Monster.

While you can find tons of postings and articles about winter riding tips online, most of them are about hours and hours of riding on interstate on Goldwing or fully faired BMW, or TAT on big ADV bikes.

Here, we are going to talk about more Ducati Monster specific, the kind of ride you realistically do on Monster.
I hope this will help you to make informed decisions about buying the gears, what kind of mods to do, to make winter riding more comfortable and enjoyable.

First, I’m going to talk about what to wear.
Then, move onto the kind of problems you typically run into, and explain how to deal with them.



1) Gears. How to build up your layering system

 The first thing you have to think, is how to layer up your clothing.
If you have done any kind of outdoor activities, you already know this.

Base (next to skin) layer : Manages moisture, by wicking the perspiration away from you skin, transport it to outer surface of the fabric

Mid (insulation) layer : retain the heat, by trapping the dead air (the air that does not circulate around) close to your body

Outer shell : Protect you from weather element (wind, rain, etc), just like any other outdoor activities. On a motorcycle, the outer shell also needs to protect you from the impact and abrasion, for obvious reason.)

I decided to talk about this first, because if you just randomly put on bunch of layers without thinking, you will end up like this.


And if your base & mid layer don’t provide enough warms, outer shell fail to give you enough protection from the wind and rain, you will get cold and wet, you will be miserable.

2) Common Problems. How to deal with them.

Hands (especially finger tips and back of the hads) get gold

Toes get cold

Winter gloves too bulky and cumbersome

Layering up and mobility lost

Layering up and still cold

Cold tires





Okay, let’s start from the Base layer.

The base layer is the foundation of your layering system.

 

To stay comfortable while riding a motorcycle in winter, you need to be warm and dry.
In other words, moisture management is the key.
You have to think about two factors.
One is the environmental moisture (Rain, heavy fog).
Another is perspiration.
Motorcycle riding (on pavement) in winter season doesn’t seem to be a sweat inducing activity.
However, your body still is sweating little by little. And there are moments  that you really sweat.
(Pushing the bike in the parking lot, getting stuck in the traffic, walking into the heated building, etc.)

If you are wearing the wrong type of base layer, such as cotton T shirt, you are fighting the battle you’ve already lost.

Cotton is a very poor choice of material for any kind of physical activities.
It holds the moisture, so, once you sweat, you will end up having “wet diper” feeling against your skin for the rest of the ride.

Material wise, you have two options (well, three, to be precise.)
Merino wool, synthetic, and hybird of Merino/Synthetic.



The ones in the photograph above are my personal favorite. Not just for motorcycle riding. I wear them for pretty much everything.

From left ot right

Smart wool NTS 250 long sleeve crew neck: mid (250) weight, 100% merino wool
https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/103888/smartwool-nts-250-pattern-crew-long-underwear-top-mens

L.L. Bean Cresta T-zip: mid (250) weight, 100% merino wool
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/90297?page=cresta-wool-midweight-base-layer-t-zip-two-tone&bc=32-516686-298-502575&feat=502575-GN3&csp=s&attrValue_0=Crisp%20Lapis/Iron

TAD gear Alchemy 1/2 zip: Polartec Power wool
https://tripleaughtdesign.com/shop/alchemy-half-zip/

Moto specific brand vs outdoor gear brand

There are many “motorcycle base layers” by the companies like Dainese, Alpinestars, Rukka, etc.
But, I don’t buy them.
(There’s nothing wrong with these products. If you like the company / brand and feel like you want to support them, go ahead and get them.)

The reason(s) I don’t buy them, is because ...

1. They don’t offer merino wool shirt.
At least in US market, all of them are 100% synthetic.
I like merino wool in cool / cold weather.

2. They tend to be more expensive, yet don’t offer any advantage over the outdoor gear brand products.

3. They don’t work as “casual wear”, which makes them even more expensive options.
Do you think you want to walk around in the public while wearing them?








Merino wool vs Synthetic

I like merino wool better. They feel feel nicer (softer, warmer feeling) on your skin.
They are naturally odder resistant.
They are naturally UV blocking.

However, synthetics dry quicker once the fabric gets wet. (Not moistened. Wet, means, like when you wash the shirt, or fall into the river.)

Here’s an interesting video. A bit dated, but still worth watching.



Polartec Power wool

Don’t confuse this with merino / synthetic blend, or Polartec Power dry.

(Power dry is 100% synthetic. Totally different products.)

Basically, inside of the fabric (which will be on your skin) is 100% merino wool, the out side of the fabric is synthetic (Polyester).



http://polartec.com/product/polartec-power-wool

Performance wise, this is the winner (to me, personally.)

It dries quicker than 100% wool.
More resillient than 100% wool.
Yet, just as comfortable and odder resistant as 100% wool.

I really like mine.




BTW, you don’t have to buy TAD Alchemy. There are other options available.

Duluth Trading
https://www.duluthtrading.com/store/product/mens-polartec-power-wool-base-layer-shirt-33209.aspx


L.L. Bean
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/90286?page=men-s-powerwool-t-zip-base-layer&bc=516718-512869&feat=512869-GN3&csp=undefined

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Here’s a short video from Fortnine, about winter base layer for the motorcyclist.
(Fortnine is kinda smaller version of Revzilla in Canada. Their video (and the ones by Brain Van from Sportbiketrackgear.com, are more entertaining than Anthony (Revzilla)’s video, IMO.)



“Crew neck” vs “1/2 (or 1/4) zip neck”

1/2 (1/4) zip neck will offer a little bit of extra warms. Also, with the zippered neck, it is easier to regulate the body temperature.

Lower half of the body

Socks

I forgot to write about teh socks in summer riding gear thread.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=75609.0

The socks play very important roll in rider comfort while riding in both summer and winter.
If you are still wearing the cheap cotton crew socks, or cheap synthetic pair from Walmart, you owe yourself to try merino wool socks.

Yes, they make that much difference.





I wear merino wool socks both on and off the bike, all year round.
For motorcycle use, my favorite are “anatomical fit” high socks.



From left to right,
Lorpen mid weight, Icebreaker anatomical fit light weight, Aerostich anatomical fit light weight

(Anatomical fit means that right and left have different toe box shape.)



Yes, they are more comfortable. It may not be obvious, but I'm wearing the socks in the photo below.
(I acutally have two pairs of these Aerostich high socks. I bought them on sale, liked them so much, and bought another pair.)



Now, these aren’t thick, winter socks. Lorpen midweight is a little bit thicker, but toe and heel area are acutally just about the same thickness as Aerostich and Icebreaker, so they don’t make the boots fitting tighter, and I really don’t need them until it gets just around 40°F.

If you are wearing a pair of boots with perforation, vent hole(s), well, obviously you have to do something to stop wind blowing through your boots.

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Long underwear bottoms



 left: Icebreaker anatomica  ultralight(150 ) weight, right: L.L. Bean Cresta light(15) weight

They are both same weight (thickness), even though one called light and the other called ultralight.
Anyway, these are the lightest weight available. For motorcycle use, I’d recommend them over the thicker ones.
Because it is not so easy to put them on and take them off on the roadside, most likely, you will be wearing them for the rest of the ride.
Thinner, lighter weight ones are more versatile.

I really don’t need to wear them until it gets down to low 40s, mostly because of the mid layer and outer shell set up. I’ll talk about this later.

If you are wearing leather pants, you want something between the pants and your skin regardless of the season.
Merino wool underwear is the most comfortable option that covers widest temperature range.
Remember, wool is temperature regulating, and odder resistant, as well as moisture wicking.

Now, the leather pants, especially the technical ones for sport riding, are not suitable for cold weather riding.
(The perforation and schoeller stretch panel flow too much air.)



But, if that’s all you have, you have to wear it. Right? That case, you can try this.

1.Wear merino wool (or any thermal underwear that does not contain cotton) under the leather pants.

2.Make sure your core body (upper torso) stays warm. This is very important. I will explain this once we get in “mid layer” section.

3.Wear BDU pants over the leather pants. They are inexpensive. They fit nicely over the leather pants. And, while not perfect, they block reasonable amount of air flow. Also, with this set up, you get multiple pockets! (Don’t put hard object in the pocket, though.)

]






The fit & sizing

For the function of the base layer, the closer the fit, the better they perform.
When buying gears online, keep in mind that fit & sizing can vary, depending on the manufacture / model.
Look at the size difference
between L.L. Bean and Icebreaker




TAD and L.L. Bean




with thumbhole, without thumbhole



For example, L.L. Bean base layers tend to be a little bit on the loose side, compared to Icebreaker or TAD. Smartwool is somewhere in between. (Or, maybe I should say Icebreaker, TAD are on the trimmer side.)
I can wear them both. But, tighter fitting gear is warmer.

Underwear

I don’t bother to show the photo of my underwear. “No cotton” rule applies here, too.
Cotton retains the moisture and odder, exactly the opposite of what you want for your underwear.

Mostly I wear Exofficio boxer shorts. (Buy from Sierra Trading Post.)
https://www.exofficio.com/give-n-go-boxer/1241-1122.html?dwvar_1241-1122_color=3553&dwvar_1241-1122_size=000094M&cgid=mens_underwear#gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg8fEy7Om2QIVSZR-Ch2-BA4OEAAYASAAEgJw-PD_BwE&start=1

I also have Patagonia Capilien 1 & 2, XGO, Klim, etc. (All purchased on closeout sale.)
One thing about Patagonia. There’s noticeable difference between Cap 1 and Cap 2. Cap 2 is noticeably warmer, so unless you are buying specifically for cold weather , get Cap 1.



WInter outdoor gear goes on sale March - early May. So, price wise, the best time to buy outdoor gear is when it’s getting off season.
Do some research now, and keep checking the sale page. You will probably find something that work for you.

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Mid layer

Now, we are getting into “Mid Layer”.
This is where things get interesting.

You need warmth.
But, you don’t want the bulk.
It is very important to keep the mobility, especially around your neck and shoulders.


Electric heated gear vs conventional insulating layers(such as down, synthetic puffy, and fleece)



The short and quick answer is, electric heated gear wins, hands down.

They have two huge advantages.

They will allow you to wear less clothes.
Big plus for mobility and comfort.

It can add warmth (heat) as needed, while keep on riding. And the level of warmth can be controlled without stopping and adding / removing the layers.

It seems like more and more people are switching to heated gear year after year.

When I hear the comment from the people who are still resisting to “go electric”, the typical answers are,

1.“They are too expensive.”
   “I don’t ride enough in winter to justify the expense (of the gear).”

2.” I don’t want to deal with installing electronic gadget on my bike.”
   “I don’t want to add all the wiring clutter and such on my bike.”

Sounds familier?

The cost and complexity

Well, both the cost and complexity greatly depends on the model you choose.

Generally speaking, “made in USA” products cost more than the ones made in overseas.

The more feature the system has, the more expensive they get.
(Simple on/off switch costs less than wireless remote controlled thermostat.)

Don’t make purchasing decision based on “The more is better” idea.

Quite often, the opposite is true.

Less is more?

Vest vs full sleeved jacket

Simple on / off switch vs fancy “heat-troller”

First, let’s take a look at my “layering system”.

Merino wool base layer (or Polartec power wool)

Aerostich Air-Vantage Kanetsu vest (with simple on / off switch. No thermostat.)

Aerostich Roadcrafter R-3



That’s it. Three layers. (The lower half of the body also has three layers. Exofficio boxers, synthetic hiking pants or tactical pants, and Aerostich R-3.)
I’m fine with this three-layer system down to 40°F. (Below 40°F, I add Arcteryx Delta LT. Will explain about it later.)

When you try to find the info about the heated gear on internet, what you will find as recommended set up is like this

1 ) full sleeved jacket (They say, "because your arms will get cold") (some even say go water proof ones)

2) “heat-troller” (the fancy name for the remort power controller by warm-n-safe) (They say "you will need this, otherwise, you will be constantly turning on / off the heated gear")





Well,...

I’m glad I didn’t go that direction.

First, let’s take a look at these video.

This is the kind of set up you will find as "expensive" , "too complicated to install & operate"

Heated jacket overview


Installing “heat-troller” on the bike


How to sync and install heat-troller


So, how do you think?
Do you want this kind of set up on your Monster?


Now, compare the system above to the one that I use.

Aerostich Air Vantage “Kanetsu” vest


This is all you have to install on the bike


power line from the vest ...




... connetcs to the power line that goes through the “hidden path-thru” power line port of R-3 ...



Then, this connects to the power line coming from the left hand side of the bike. (Shown in the photo above.)



The switch is very easy to operate while riding.
The classic example of K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) brilliance, “Less is more”.



I much prefer this set up over the remote heat-troller, and everything comes with the vest.
(Warm-n-safe gear, you have to buy controller separately.)

... to be continued ...

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Vest vs Full sleeved jacket

Don’t underestimate the effectiveness of “adding heat to your core body”.

It can solve “my hands / fingertips getting cold” problem.

“Really? How warming up torso can make my hands warm?”

When your body starts getting cold, the natural defense system of your body tries to save your vital organs which are all located in the core body.
So, it will reduce the amount of blood flow to extremities, trying to keep the warm blood for your vital organs.
That’s why your finger tips, toes, ears, etc are the first ones to get cold.

Adding the heat (calories) to your core body “fools” you body’s system, it will keep pumping out normal amount of blood to your extremities.
(It doesn’t matter how the extra calorie is added, by physical activities, by eating / drinking something warm, or by electric heated gear, your body wouldn’t know the difference. )

“Cold finger / hand” was the problem for me, before getting the electric heated vest. (which was 2 years ago.)
I hate thick, bulky winter gloves with passion. I just can’t stand them.



Yet, my fingers get cold rather easily.

With electric heated vest and hand guard, I can ride with thin racing gauntlet throughout the winter.



Yes, it can make such a huge difference.
(You will need to block / deflect the cold wind blasting onto your hand. I will talk more about this later.)
The vest is not just for warming your upper body. It wii also greatly improve the way you feel at finger tips, toes, ears, etc.

Don’t be fooled by the comment on internet forum saying “your arms get cold...”.
Unless you are planning to ride in 20°F all day, every day, the vest will work just fine.

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So, what I have been using in the past two winter seasons is

Aerostich Kanetsu AirVantage  electric vest.



http://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-kanetsu-airvantage-electric-vest.html

It is reversible. One side is GoreTex WINDSTOPPER, the other side is nylon taffeta.





It has two-way front zip. It can be opened either from the top, or from the bottom.
(It is convenient when plugging / unplugging the power line.)




It has air-bladder, so you can make the vest fitment tighter in a few seconds.
(Very useful feature if you are skinny like myself.)



The power output is 45w.
Plenty enough warmth. Unless you are trying to use it under mesh gear in freezing temperature.)
(FYI, Warm-n-Safe liner jacket is  90w. )

The vest is not cheap at $249. (The regular version(with Gore Windstopper) is $197, the fleece version is $187)

However, ...

Considering these things, I think they are actually reasonably priced.



Made in Duluth, Minnesota, US of A, backed by Aerostich’s excellent customer service.
(If you damage the gear, it can be repaired. If you have a question, a problem, you can call them and the real human-being  will answer the phone, not the recorded message.
You can even e-mail to the founder and owner, Andy Goldfine, and he will answer you.)

Comes with everything you need.
Power line with clip and LED lighted switch, power line to the bike’s battery, instruction paper and inspection tug.

(FYI, highly regarded Warm-n-Safe gear doesn’t come with controller. You have to buy them separately.
So, it’ll be $239.95 + $69.95=$309.90 minimum. If you go with remote control and /or dual control, it will be even more $.
There’s nothing wrong with it. I’m just not a fan of the way they are sold. At that price, I think, the controller should be included.)

No-nonsense, very simple & easy to operate system. (Very easy to install, also. Anyone who can install the battery can install this.)

About the fitting / sizing

Heated gear works best when worn close to the body. So, the fitting should be tight, not loose, and you should wear it on your base layer. (Not over your fleece or sweat shirt)

Some people wear compression type shirt over the heated gear, to putt the heated gear closer to the body, which I didn’t want to do.
I wanted to make layering system as simple as possible.

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Mid-layer  Non-electric (non-heated) options

These are my favorite (most frequently worn) mid layers.
They work great, for both on and off the bike.
(Still, electric heated vest is way more flexible, comfortable, can be had for less money than these options I show here.)

Arc’teryx Atom LT jacket



Insulation type: Synthetic puffy (Core-loft)
Core-loft is Arc’teryx’s original synthetic, non-woven insulation.

https://arcteryx.com/us/en/shop/mens/atom-lt-jacket



It’s warm (feels warmer than most other synthetic insulation jacket).
light weight
breathable (Polartec Power Stretch panel on the side and arm pit area)



Stores small (into its own sleeve)





(This is better for the longevity of the insulation, than really tightly compressing the jacket into the small storage pocket.)

Clean, understated design (can be used for going out for dinner, for example)

The collar height is “just enough” to be worn under the Aerostich Roadcrafter suit.



Also, great height for walking around. (You know how much warmth escapes from the neck area. The jacket with poorly designed collar / neck area is useless even though it is using good insulation.)

The cuffs are elasticated simple design. No zipper, no velcro, no snap button for the adjustment.
Which is great for layering under shell. (You know you don’t want big, bulky cuffs under the motorcycle riding jacket / suits.)



Sleeves are nice, slim fit. Well, overall jacket’s shape is nice trim fit.

It is expensive, yes. (However, they go on sale in the spring, in certain places. I bought mine from Backcountry.com when it was 25% off (which doesn’t happen that often.)

TAD (Triple Aught Design) gear Ranger LT jacket



insulation type: fleece (Polartec Wind Pro)

https://tripleaughtdesign.com/shop/ranger-jacket-lt/

Another favorite piece of gear from TAD.
So, Atom LT and Ranger LT, while being totally different type of jacket, do work in a very similar way, to me anyway.
Light weight, warm, wind resistant yet breathable.
Can be worn in many, many different situations.

Fitment wise, Ranger LT is even tighter than Atom LT. (Long and very trim fitting torso, known as “alpine cut”)

The biggest difference would be that Ranger LT is loaded with multiple pockets.

On both biceps,




on the left forearm,




both front pockets have “pocket -in-pocket”, and the loop for anchor point.





The front pocket also act as vent.

And, “game pocket” on the back.




This is a good place to keep a sketchbook, too.



Front zipper is a 2-way item, it can be opened either from the top, or bottom.
(This is the kind of feature you will appreciate after starting to use the gear often, but really don’t see as useful until you actually start using it.)



Ranger LT is probably just a little bit warmer than Atom LT. (However, with thinner, lighter weight base layer (or just a regular T-shirt) underneath, they work great in the chilly morning /evening in the spring time.)
Also, being a fleece jacket, it is a lot more resilient than Atom LT. (Atom LT is not a fragile jacket, though.)

I found that , of all the “wind proof” , “wind resistant” type of fleece, Polartec’s Wind Pro works best (for me).
Yes, I have tried Aerostich’s TL tec windblocker fleece also. And I like WInd Pro better.
Unlike “wind blocker fleece”, Wind Pro has no membrane, it is essentially really tightly woven fleece (that makes it “4 times more wind resistant than regular fleece”.)
I found that Wind Pro is more comfortable (softer feeling on the skin / on the body), easier to regulate the temp (which means it works in many more different situations / activities.)

Oh, and DWR works really well.

The downside of Ranger LT, ...

#1

It’s bulky when not worn!
It won’t compress nicely like Atom LT.

#2
It’s expensive. I can almost hear,
“$200 for a fleece jacket ! NO WAY!”


Well,...

perhaps I should mention this, again.
“The warmth” base / mid layer provides has a lot to do with the fitment.
loose, baggy fit will never bring you the kind of warmth you’d expect from the spec of the material.

Unfortunately, I could never find the less expensive brand (such as Colombia Sport, which is roughly 1/4 of the Arc’teryx price), or $20 fleece from TARGET, etc, that fits my body shape properly. If those inexpensive options work for you, that's great. They just don't work for me.


Besides, Ranger LT is made in right here, SF bay area. (FYI, my favorite base layer “Alchemy 1/2 zip” is also made in US.)


So, for the fleece that I can wear for riding motorcycle, driving convertible, in and around the house, walking, hiking (pretty much any kind of outdoor activities), even can go out for dinner, functional AND good looking, entirely made in USA(yes, even the fleece material itself is made in US) ...
I can accept that price tag.
If you are interested in TAD gear, keep in mind that they are really small company. (Like, total 30 or so employees. )
So, when particular item(s) go out of stock, it can take quite a bit of time until they restock those items.

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How to keep your hands warm

So, I already explained a little bit about this.
This is how I do it.

1. Keep the core body warm, by wearing electric heated vest.
   
This is the first thing to do, otherwise, you’ll be fighting the battle you’ve already lost.
If your core gets cold, thick insulated winter gloves, electric heated gloves, heated grips, nothing really help that much.

2. Use 3/4 style bar mitts, to block the wind.



These are semi-custom made by OBR adventure gear.

http://www.obradvgear.com/index.php/products/enduro-grip-mitt




The side of the mitts are modified to accommodate CRG lane spliter mirror.









That’s it. Pretty simple, and it works.
I don’t need a different set of gloves for winter season anymore.


The disadvantage of heated grips
Unless you use grip mitts or hand guards, your fingers get cold, after certain amount of time. You need to block / deflect the cold wind hitting your hands/fingers.
You need relatively “thin” insulation on your gloves. (Ideally, no insulation  on the palm side of the gloves.)
The middle and / or index fingers are often hovering over the levers, not always on the grip. And even when they are(on the grip), the finger tip of the index & middle fingers are not really firmly touching on the grips IF you are holding the grips properly. (Go on, sit on your bike, do the proper “screwdriver grip”. You will understand what I am saying.)


This type of heated grips



The left side grip will not be as warm as the right side.

This type of heated grips



You can not choose the type of the grip. You may or may not like the shape / material / overall feel of the grip that comes with the package.


The disadvantage of Grip Mitts

Some would say, grip mitts are aesthetically not acceptable.

Well, to me personally, the advantage of the grip mitts far outweigh the “uncool look” of the grip mitts.

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3/4 grip mitts continued

So, the cost of OBR adventure 3/4 mitts is $55. (As of this writing, April 2018).
Pretty reasonable for quality, handmade in USA item.

Compare these OBR 3/4 mitts to Hippo Hands similar items.

Hippo Hands back country



https://www.hippohands.com/products/backcountry



Well, here’s the catch...
This style of mitts, not just OBR, but also Hippo Hands,   require
hand guard in order to use them.
(You can actually see in the photo (3rd fron the top) )

What I have on my bike is CYCRA Pro Bend CRM (Center Reach Mount)
https://cycraracing.com/products/handguards/wrap-around-handguards/probend-crm/

$169.95 at this moment.











Barkbuster Storm single point mount system is $104.90





Barkbuster Storm is cheaper, easier to install.
Then, why did I choose CYCRA CRM ?

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So, why did I choose CYCRA over BarkBuster Storm?

Build Quality

Unfortunately, this is one of the things that are really hard to tell from looking at the pictures on the internet.
You have to see them in the flesh, you have to touch, handle them with your own hands.

Barkbuster isn’t cheap, low quality stuff. (It's over $100)
However, I feel like the price is tad too high for what they really are. (In other words, if they were $ 50- 60 range, it is acceptable.)

CYCRA is more expensive (about $65 more than Barkbuster).
But, you will get that $65 back, when thing go wrong the first time

How they hold up if the bike is dropped?

Look at the last photo in the previous post, the part that goes onto the handle bar (grip) end.
This part of Barkbuster Storm is made out of CAST aluminum alloy.
And it WILL break off if the bike is dropped on asphalt or concrete, even at the walking speed, parking lot tip over.
(Have seen it.)

And, because Barkbuster does not sell parts individually,  you will have to buy a whole new set.

On the other hand, CYCRA’s hand guard bar is one-piece billet construction, with replaceable plastic cover over it.
It will hold up in a minor crush (have seen it), and it will protect your levers.
Every single parts for repair is available for CYCRA handguards, to repair / change configuration.

Barkbuster Storm (single point mount) WILL rotated around on the bar, if more than certain amount of force is applied, which is not that much. You can push them to rotated.

CYCRA CRM will not.


Plastic hand (knuckle) guard part on Barkbuster Storm is bigger than the ones on CYCRA, which seems like a good thing at first, but because of this, you may want to remove them in warmer season.

CYCRA’s hand guard will not bother you even in the summer time. You can leave them on all year round.
If you really wish to get more air flow onto your hands, you can remove the part (two parts) of the hand guard, like this.



To mount the handguard on the aluminum bar, Barkbuster uses self-tapping screws (cheap method, good for one-time use), CYCRA use bolt & nut.

So, the point is, once you damage one single part of Barkbuster, you are forced to buy a whole new set which will cost over $100.
With CYCRA, you can just replace the part that got damaged, and keep going.





Don’t worry about “shaving off the throttle tube” the guy’s talking at the end of the video.
With stock Ducati handle bar, or even with different handle bar, as long as you keep the hand control position in the same place, you don’t have to do that.

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Tires

If you want to enjoy the riding all year round, sport touring tires are the way to go.
Pirelli Angel GT is my favorite currently.

In any case, choosing temperature sensitive tires / brake pads is not really a good idea for the street riding.

How to warm up tires

Don’t try to warm up tires by rolling the bike side to side.

When you start the riding, gently accelerate in 1st gear, then brake, accelerate again, brake,...
(make sure no vehicle is following you closely)

What it does is to squish the tires multiple times (tires get warm quickly when deformed repeatedly), so that they get warmed up evenly, not just the surface.

How to deal with tight corners with wet patch, or when it’s really cold?
(and what if it’s downhill / decreasing radius corner / off camber, also?)

This should be explained in a separate thread, but, to put it very simple,
you should learn how to turn without relaying on deep lean angle, withoug hanging off, both knees closed, use front end steering angle instead.



In other word, ride like Japanese motorcycle police !

Take a look at this video. Watch carefully form  5:06   to 5:11   .
See how recovers from the slide.



When going through the series of tight switchback turns, especially in those challenging situations (wet / cold / off camber / decreasing radius, etc), no hanging off (no butt shifting side to side), knees closed, lean-in riding style is a lot smoother and safer.
(This style is easier to react to the slide, will not upset the motorcycle chassis like fake hang-off.)

[koko64]

Awesome.
I'll show this to me mates.
Japanese police style reminds me of the British racer Jamie Whitham.

I'm planning for building an all weather, light weight adventure Scrambler from a Monster (possibly 620-750), so this thread is a useful resource. I hate the cold, but ride in Winter here down to 30°F/0°C.
Thanks for sharing man.

[JonS2R]

Great post! Has anyone tried mounting wind deflectors to the forks to block some of the air that would otherwise hit your legs/thighs?