Help setting ignition p/u bracket location/timing

[LowercaseJake]

So I tampered with a perfectly good running M750 engine that still had its original Threebond on the case halves. Installed a light flywheel, wet slipper clutch, Ca-Cycleworks coils and Pederzini V1.0 ICM's. Bike won't start, just cranks. (it's a nice sounding crank at least)

I'm betting I didn't set the bracket and pickups correctly. Possibly the air gap as well. Air gap is self explanatory but the bracket and its markings are voodoo to me. Of course I didn't sharpie its position beforehand, that would've been way too intelligent of me. I've tried swapping out the coils and ICM's for stock parts to no avail. CCW gaskets are on the way so I can bin this crappy Permatex. The Haynes manual is no help, it simply tells me to do what I already didn't, which is to mark the brackets position ahead of time.

Any help is vastly appreciated.

[ducpainter]

Took about 10 minutes to find this in a search...you should try it. I'll bill you.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=66961.msg1237501#msg1237501

[LowercaseJake]

. I'll bill you.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=66961.msg1237501#msg1237501

It's funny you mention that, I was about to PM you a proposal.

BTW 10 minutes for a mod with tens of thousands of posts would probably be an hour for anyone else. . Depending on how your search engine is coded.

[LowercaseJake]

Btw I dud attempt a search and found a couple leads, but photo bucket "cock blocked" me lol

[LowercaseJake]

DP, one more question. It seems I need to find TDC before I even begin to set the bracket. Noob question but what's the easiest way to do this? I remember something called the "straw trick" which would be inserting a straw into the vertical pistons spark plug hole and rotating the crank until the straw pokes out the furthest.

Again I'm sure this is covered in another thread but if it's also contained within this one for posterity, then this thread won't be a total waste and could help future lurkers.

[LowercaseJake]

N/m I got it... I'll post the link shirtless in an edited version of this post.

[ducpainter]

The trick with the DMF search engine is to be just specific enough.

We had a guy here that was a master at it.

derby was his screen name. That replaced the word derby on the DMF, if you don't have the net nanny turned off, because he could find any duplicate thread in seconds.

[LowercaseJake]

The trick with the DMF search engine is to be just specific enough.

We had a guy here that was a master at it.

derby was his screen name. That replaced the word derby on the DMF, if you don't have the net nanny turned off, because he could find any duplicate thread in seconds.

I'm gen X so I grew up with a foot on each side of web technology. That typically makes are generation more tech savvy, because to even use the internet in the late 90s you had to know at least a little code. I do like how you can find specific phrases by confining them within quotes.

One mistake I made more than once was not searching from the main page.

[ducpainter]

I actually like to search from the forum where it will likely be posted. Eliminates a bunch of noise.

[LowercaseJake]

Going back in time to my FW install which was a huge pain in the D compared to the older single phase...

If I wanted to be positive I got that right.. After finding TD and putting the case cover back on, the left dot should align with the arrow on the inspection window, or at least close to it, amiright?

Oh and this post makes me feel much less ashamed;

I've only done like 4 or 5 carb'd flywheels, but that is absolutely a wrong assumption. There's way too much play with the plate's mounts to the engine case to get repeatability.

Whenever making any adjustments to the plate the pickups are on, you need to iteratively perform the above procedure until both pickups measure 0.027", rotating the engine back and forth.

You cannot adjust the front one then adjust the back one and call it done. You have to then re-check The very last time ever I have messed with one of these plates was a decade ago when I did the full 100hp recipe for a customer. I adjusted the timing 4 or 5 times trying to find the right balance of starting but able to still run. Ignitech saved my butt on that one.


Chris

[ducpainter]

I use the mark on the layshaft.

That's TDC for the horizontal cylinder.

[LowercaseJake]

I use the mark on the layshaft.

That's TDC for the horizontal cylinder.

Not sure what you mean... The only thing visible through the inspection window is the leading edge of the FW.

[ducpainter]

Other side of the bike. Bottom pulley for the belts.

[LowercaseJake]

Other side of the bike. Bottom pulley for the belts.

Ahhh... So rotate the valve train until the mark on the drive pulley aligns but be sure to rotate via the crank or rear wheel obviously, rather than move the pulleys independently.

Aside from the obvious nut backing out which I'm not concerned about, having used the Nichols jamb nuts and proper torque, could incorrect installation of the FW cause an engine to implode or just lead to a no start/ crappy idle/misfires etc?

I also need to make sure I have the wiring to the coils done right, which us a little more difficult since I snipped off the crappy ends and soldered on female quick connects on the narrow leads. The only part that's still original is the flag terminal, which I'm fairly positive goes on the wider of the 2 male ends.

No need for anyone to tell me I should've had a shop install the FW and set the timing, I already know. 

[ducpainter]

Did you solder on the ignition boxes?