I need new brake pads. Anything recommended?

[stopintime]

CA CycleWorks has said that our undersized brakes should have the Ferodo XR Racing pads for any real improvement.
Are there any concerns I didn't know about?

[Howie]

You could probably get away with just the clip, but, hey, we are talking brakes here!  Yeah, I know, most of us don't use the rear brake much, but still.  The pin is available from Ducati as a spare part.  In the meantime, I would use safete wire as well as the clip to ride temporarily.  When you get the new pin a little touch of copper anti sieze will keep this from happening in the future.  In the rear I use whatever brand HH pad is available since I'm one of the most of us.

[hypurone]

One point that hasn't been touched on here. The difference in heat transfer/retention between metal(sintered) and organic pads. Organics act as an insulator and will keep the majority of the heat in the ROTORS. Sintered on the other hand acts as a heatsink and draws heat away from the rotors and will trasnfer some into the system(calipers/fluid). Good and bad on both counts as different parts of the brake system take the stress. I for one go with what the ROTOR is designed to use. Putting an organic on when a sintered is called for will reduce overall power in harder applications and increase the likelihood of warpage. On the flipside, sintered's can be hard on rotors....

The carbon/ceramic composite pads are a great in between. Even tho they are techinically an organic, the ceramic component still acts as a heatsink to some degree as it actually needs heat to work and they are more friendly to the rotor. They have less initial bite than sintered's and can usually require a little more heat in them to become wicked-powerful but I am diggin em so far....

[stopintime]

I just put the Ferodo Sintered on the front and the Ferodo Platinum on the Rear of my S2R 800, I ordered some Platinums for the front from Ca Cycleworks, but Chris from Cycleworks sent me an Email advising against the Platinums for the front, He did say the Platinums would work but he is not a big fan of the OEM Brembo's on the front of the S2R800/695 so he suggested put on the Sintered.

I put them on on Sunday, The braking experience is a lot better than the OEM pads, The front is now just Awesome, It might be a bit harder on the disc, But such is life.
I've always hated the rear brake, it now has a lot more feel and stopping power, it's not as good as I would like, but a lot better than OEM.

Overall the braking power and feel is much better, I can highly recommend the Ferodo's

When you mention "Ferodo sintered" - do you mean the XR Racing version?
If so, what is the downside with them, if any? Wear, heat, initial bite too strong ... ? ....?

[CairnsDuc]

When I ordered the pads they were listed as a Ferodo Sintered on Chris's website, A couple of weeks later Chris relaunched/redesigned the page and they changed the name, I assume the XR is the same (Sintered)

Overall the OEM package is OK for commuting but when I was out pushing hard in the local ranges the OEM pads just lacked feel.

I put the Sintered on and although they are not as good when cold (Still more than safe though), as soon as they get warm they are very impressive, the heat does not bother them any where near as much as the OEM pads (Handy when you live in hot and humid tropical Australia)
But when they are hot and working hard out in the mountain ranges they are worth every cent, amazing stopping power and very consistent, It's only when approaching the the bottom of the mountain range that the Pads start to get to to hot (160 tight turns connected by 2nd and 3rd gear Straights, very tough on brakes, but lottsa fun!  )
 
But I intend to do the 320mm DP kit soon anyway, so this has been a good stop gap measure.

[hypurone]

But I intend to do the 320mm DP kit soon anyway, so this has been a good stop gap measure.

Might I suggest:

http://www.braketech.com/sportbikes/AXIS-Iron-Rotors.php

These coupled with their Carbon/Ceramic CP2.11 pads are nothing short of phenominal! Initial bite is toned down a bit (my preference) and they want a little heat in them. But they are stunningly powerful after that and I haven't been able to get them to fade. Even on the track! 

One thing tho. They are full floaters, so they rattle a bit at low speed and when you are pushing it around the garage/driveway. So if that kind of thing bothers ya....

Here they are on my RS:



Notice the patented load bearing surfaces near the buttons. These take ALL the load. Allowing the buttons to handle movement only and avoid warping.

[Drunken Monkey]

Might I suggest:

http://www.braketech.com/sportbikes/AXIS-Iron-Rotors.php

I have the same rotors in stainless and they work quite well. Zero fade, although not quite as much 'bite' as iron rotors I've tried.

On the plus side, no rust 

[hypurone]

I have the same rotors in stainless and they work quite well. Zero fade, although not quite as much 'bite' as iron rotors I've tried.

On the plus side, no rust 

You just need to ride it more! Seriously tho, no rust on mine so far and we hang out at the coast an aweful lot too.They come with an anti-rust coating on them that you have to spend a fair amount of time getting off the rotor faces (use your old pads for this part!). The rest stays coated nicely and is obviously doing the job well...

[LA]

I use to cp211 carbon ceramic pads too.  When really getting on the brakes hard, I too like the less sever "hit" upon initial application of the brakes.  From the point of initial bite the brakes then get extremely powerful and easy to modulate - good feel and VERY powerful, with no fade.  I wonder how the monoblocks could possibly be any better.

I also use the iron rotors and you can literally watch them rust once they get wet.  I don't think anyone who keeps their bike outside could use them. Not if it ever rains where you live anyway.  make the beast with two backsing good brakes though. [moto]

LA

[hypurone]

I also use the iron rotors and you can literally watch them rust once they get wet.  I don't think anyone who keeps their bike outside could use them. Not if it ever rains where you live anyway.  make the beast with two backsing good brakes though. [moto]

LA

Ya know, I always forget about that part. I never leave my bikes outside, plus I never use water to clean the bike so I'm an oddity... 

[Capo]

On the S*R, the clip is on the outside of the caliper see pic.



The pad pin is a loose fit in the caliper, a wire retaining ring fits into a slot on the pin, the diameter of the retaining ring is such that it is an interference fit in the caliper, driving the pin into the caliper causes the ring to contract exerting pressure on both the pin and caliper thus securing the pin in position. This is the primary means of retention, the E clip is the safety.
The pin is headed and can only be fitted from one direction.
To remove the pin, remove the E clip and using a punch, lightly tap the pin out of the caliper until the retaining ring is clear.

Before removing the pads, check and note the orientation of the pad anti rattle clip as it can be a bit of a puzzle when reinstalling.

The sloppy fit between the pin and caliper, draws in and holds moisture, this can lead to corrosion and subsequent difficulty in removal, grease well with anti seize or my favourite Corrosion Block from Lear Chemicals.

[greenmonster]

EBC HH sintered pads....though it may wear the rotor faster,

finally at home.
Never let me down, wears rotors abit but the bite is there!
Def worth a try IMHO.