2007 S2R Valve Adjustment - Last Min Reassurance

[GPS2R]

Good evening everyone, just had some last questions before I tackle the valve adjustment in the near future.

I own a 2007 Ducati S2R: Ive read everything I can find and seen the videos from CA-Cycle works however I would just like clarification on the following.

**Note I also plan to do timing belts at the same time

Here is my understanding, correct me where I am wrong

TDC Vertical: Measure w/Feeler gauge exhaust and intake valves open/closer
Rotate 90 degrees, measure w/ feeler gauge exhaust and intake valve clearance open/closer horizontal cylinder

Mark down distances and apply correct shim from shim kit

First area to clarify:

1) My bike doesnt have the view port for TDC next to the Slave Cylinder, when you alighn the cam marks am I correct to believe that the vertical cylinder is TDC?

Once clearances are measured next is installing the proper shims:
I've been reading that this is best to do with the belts off in order to check for any resistance on the closer shim:

My understanding correct me if I am wrong;

Vertical Cylinder adjustment:
1) Align to TDC
2) Mark Belt and Pully at TDC
3) Remove Belts

4) Installing the correct shims
A) Remove rocker retainer clip
B) Slide rocker over (may have to wiggle cam a bit how much I dont know)
C) Push down on retainer rocker for closer
D) Remove Keepers
E) Replace shim and put cam back in marked place
F) Reverse install all removed parts and install new belt

5) Ive read you need to rotate the cam to check for any resistance, how much rotation are we talking about?
Should I be rotating the cam without the intake rocker installed so that the valve doesnt touch the piston?!

Any other tips to assure timing is the correct position?!

Thank you for your time

GPS2R

[greenmonster]

1. Yes you do have that, you mean you don`t have the round glass?!?
Edit: I was wrong: "Glass window was gone on the 2007"
You don`t need TDC if you renewal belts the same time as valves.

2-3. See 1, just remove belts and have piston NOT at TDC.
When belt pulley is in loose position, measure valves.

4. Yes, works fine.

5. Rotate several turns with all installed, rockers also, should not bind anywhre.
When piston is not TDC, no risk of hitting it.

[GPS2R]

It all makes sense now, TDC is only used for measuring valve clearance.

Also seeing the diagrams and shop manual and double checking with my bike, there is no sight glass with TDC markings...

Will check back if I have any other questions

Thank you

GPS2R

[koko64]

Put it at tdc when removing the collets. I use forceps to hold the valve.

[chipripper]

I'll add my 2¢. Channel your zen throughout the process. I've done my 2008 S2R 3 times now, and it always takes longer than expected, and I end up getting frustrated at some point. I always have to remember it is not an exact science. Measuring down to a thousandth is very subjective when your pressing down on the closer and feeling the feeler gauge resistance, or rotating to feel for drag on the cams, etc. On the latest adjustment I got my clearances really close, and the process was 100 times easier than the first time.

Also, there is a tip in the thread below about removing the opening rocker, and using a hex key to unload the closer. This is definitely the best method I have found so far.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=69846.msg1291607#msg1291607

The link below is a google spreadsheet I use. I can't remember where I found it, but I modded it to suite my needs and keep my numbers in order. if you google, you can probably find the original version. HTH

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19dbjpU_6n58me8pi3iYKABgQxMLAxixBBQVDu1XqRmo/edit?usp=sharing

[greenmonster]

"Put it at tdc when removing the collets. I use forceps to hold the valve."

+1, forgot that.

[koko64]

The sight glass with timing marks is on the alternator side outer engine case. EDIT: Ah 2007, I see, later model. Pardon.
Buy Desmotimes Desmodue "supplement" manual and read the valve adjustment section carefully. Very practical and lots of specific tips.
Feel for binding when you spin/flick the pulley through the cam base circle range. The cams run in plain bearings on your model rather than big ball bearings on the early models. It's hard to describe the difference between normal bearing drag and binding.

[stopintime]

The sight glass with timing marks is on the alternator side outer engine case.

Glass window was gone on the 2007 ((about) the same time the valve stems were reduced by a mm)

[He Man]

"Put it at tdc when removing the collets. I use forceps to hold the valve."

+1, forgot that.

I just put the bike at tdc and let the valves drop ontop of the piston. never really had an issue.

For those who are reading this and own an 1000 or 1100 series motor, the cam wont spin all the way through so you cant check for binding on a full turn of the cam. (you can still check for binding within the portion of the cam that you can turn though).

[koko64]

That's right about 90° total movement flicking it each way on the came base circle. Try and feel for the difference in bearing drag vs binding. The drag feels different on the later models with their llain bearings imo.