valve adjust + MBP

Started by BK_856er, November 04, 2018, 12:51:26 PM

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BK_856er

My upcoming winter project this year will be a 23k mile valve adjust on my 695.  This will be my first time, so I'm a bit apprehensive despite all the good info here.  Rotating the parts with belts off causes me the most concern.

I have the 2V/7mm/large EMS kit with MBP retainers and all the required tools.

How critical is exact TDC?  My alternator cover does not have an inspection window and the cams were previously degreed by Nichols, so presumably the cam pulley markings are somewhat off.  Finding initial general TDC is easy enough.  I've done the belts numerous times - do I need more care/precision than that?

Any advice or tips appreciated.

BK

koko64

#1
Did Nichols remark the pulleys for tdc and belt adjustment for the new timing set up? Does the timing side have the removable Allen plug and (hard to see) notched gear for tdc or a dot or line on a flywheel assembly? When I do valves I put another mark on the vert cylinder pulley for tdc compression after finding it the ol' fashioned way and check it against any line, dot or notch behind a window or Allen plug. Older bikes usually have dots, some have a marked gear tooth like Evo's (hard to see), some have a fine line on the rotor face. Check for true tdc by feeling where the piston tops out before moving again to get the correct mark if theres more than one mark or dot in the vicinity.

For extra peace of mind pick up some overtime and pay Nichols asking them to mark everything. Once marked it will be easier for you next time with accurate reference points. My 4x4 pick up is with my trusted mechanic at present, sure I can do the job, but it is financially and time wise cheaper for me to work at what I do and pay him because he's faster and has a hoist. ;D
2015 Scrambler 800

ducpainter

Put a screw driver in the plug hole and get it as close as you can.

It ain't rocket science. ;D
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koko64

2015 Scrambler 800

BK_856er

Not rocket science - got it!

I'm happy to pay pros for their skill and knowledge.  I'm fortunate to have several very good ones near me.  But I think there comes a time for the Ducati rider to undertake their own valve adjustment (if they are so inclined).  It's not about saving pennies, but better understanding and appreciating the machine.  For me the wrenching and riding go hand in hand and it's a good thing.

BK

koko64

2015 Scrambler 800

thorn14

Quote from: BK_856er on November 04, 2018, 06:10:58 PM
Not rocket science - got it!

I'm happy to pay pros for their skill and knowledge.  I'm fortunate to have several very good ones near me.  But I think there comes a time for the Ducati rider to undertake their own valve adjustment (if they are so inclined).  It's not about saving pennies, but better understanding and appreciating the machine.  For me the wrenching and riding go hand in hand and it's a good thing.

BK

It's a fairly straightforward process.

Also, be aware when fitting the collets, your valve stems MAY have mushroomed a little bit making them really tight for fitting the collets. I have used some 600 grit sandpaper and wet sanded until I could slide them on for both my 620 and 800, and will likely have to for my 1000 when I get around to doing it. All my engines have been over 30k miles when I fitted them though.
M620 turned M800 but then back to M620 after the M800 died at 110k, and now to Multi 1000.

BK_856er

Thanks, thorn14 - good to know!

BK

thorn14

Scratch that, it's just to fit closer shims on that can be tight, the collets should fit fine. After 8 years of working on old leaky bikes I sometimes get mixed up  ;D
M620 turned M800 but then back to M620 after the M800 died at 110k, and now to Multi 1000.