MX FCR Project (Monster 750).

[greenmonster]

Do you have 2 separate idle knobs w this setup?

[koko64]

Yes, everything is separate. So I set the idle first by measuring the idle knob adjustment and carefully setting the throttle cable tension on each carb. I then set the synch and go back and forth between those adjustments and also do the idle mixture. I have an O2 tester, but I'm doing it by ear and with a manometer. It's all old school and a way to stay occupied besides watching movies, working out, reading, etc.

I will have to use different manifold boots so I'm searching for better parts that don't require modification. The process of reaming the boots has weakened them, so I can't rely on them long term.

I fitted the CCW Exactfit coils too.

[Howie]

I sent you an email with two photos showing how mine was mounted.  IMO, a good location for a scrambler.

[koko64]

Thanks Howie. Appreciate it. Replied.

[koko64]

Some more testing today. Got a good setting that starts easy with a few squirts of the accelerator pump and if feeling lazy one choke on that's easy to reach. Boom at the press of a button. That's how they should be sold.

Now to replace the maniflld boots, one MJ cap o-ring and possibly one float bowl gasket (it swelled up and stopped sweating).

[koko64]

Ok, guess which carb needed 1&1/2 turns on the idle mixture screw and which one only needed 1/2 a turn?

[koko64]

Despite a few little bugs to iron out, I can say with confidence that the bike feels like its picked up 10 more ft/lbs of torque and 10 hp. It hasnt really, just a few hp & ft/lbs, but the response is greatly improved with better acceleration and response when you ask for it. With the light flywheel it goes great for a basically stock bike.

[Von Eisen]

 

My apologies for the late update koko ... You have come a long way since I last visited this thread, nice work. I think you will be happy with the boots, they are a good fit and easy to work with 

I did fire the bike with the new carb set up, it ran well from cold but once warm was too rich. After having a dig around in my jet assortment I realized I didn't have what I thought, so have ordered others. The Kehlin are back on there for the moment as I  needed him mobile ... Here is the pic I promised you, hope it's still of some use, the bowls are slightly angled but I think they will be ok. To find a hill would be a very long ride for me, so I don't have that particular prob .

fcr11 by simon lane, on Flickr

[koko64]

Thanks VE.
Interested in the gallery's opinion on the float angle. At worst a float level adjustment may be required, but it's not a severe angle.

[ducpainter]

I think a float adjustment is in order...~1-2 mm I'd guess.

[Pinion]

Float mount fore or aft in that position

[koko64]

Pivot mount is fore on the slant body and MX FCRs. Yes it may determine  - or +  adjustments. I'll see if the plugs and general running change and use probably only 1mm change. I think the carbs tolerance for angle is probably around 20 degrees, maybe a bit more. They are pretty level at present. I think TMs cope with about 30 and Dellortos about 40.

[Pinion]

Pivot mount is fore on the slant body and MX FCRs. Yes it may determine  - or +  adjustments. I'll see if the plugs and general running change and use probably only 1mm change. I think the carbs tolerance for angle is probably around 20 degrees, maybe a bit more. They are pretty level at present. I think TMs cope with about 30 and Dellortos about 40.

Check please

[koko64]

Some of the dirtbike guys reckon up to 30 degrees with float level changes, but that's a lot. The dirt bike carbs have float bowl baffles and extra vents to stop flooding for jumps, etc. I'm not a dirt guy so will be interested to see how they help.

[koko64]

images (1) by Tony Kokonis, on Flickr
images (3) by Tony Kokonis, on Flickr