Separating fork tubes that are stuck

[Monsterlover]

I'm rebuilding a set of showas from a 900SSFE. New seals and race tech springs. I got one done and it seems to be okay. Except for one thing which I'll get to in a second.

The second fork I have all the guts out of it but I cannot get the tubes apart. I'm doing the slide hammer method and I have a sneaking suspicion that the inner bushing and the outer bushing are jamming together. I can see debris inside the outer tube from the inner bushing so I know I'm basically skiving that bushing smaller.

I guess if I managed to get it pulled through then I would just have to find a way to remove the outer bushing from the fork tube.

I would rather it just come apart honestly. Does anybody have any tips? I'm going to try a heavy session with the heat gun to see if I can encourage it some.

Lastly the issue with the first fork is the rebound clicker is screwed recessed into the fork cap by about 3 to 4 mm to get the rebound to do anything. This is past the point where the clickers actually click. I don't know if it was like this before I took it apart since I backed everything off before disassembly.

Does this seem right?

[Buhgaboo]

It's been a long time...but I recall using the bushing from the other fork to get the one the needed out...I stacked it on top of the other...it provided just enough extra height to bump it out...I hope that makes some sense...I had the same issue with one of mine as well...as for the clicker going past the clicking point ...it's probably ruined at least in that you cant say you have "x" clicks....it's no longer a metered valve...rather a plug that lets fluid by...it's broken...but not exactly useless...

[Howie]

I can't resist

Send them to Eric

[Monsterlover]

I can't resist

Send them to Eric

[Monsterlover]

I fixed the one with the rebound clicker issue. The lock nut was on backwards and didn't thread down onto the damping rod far enough.

The nut is counter bored which I didn't notice at assembly time. That lets it thread down the rod farther, which let's the top cap thread on farther which puts the rebound adjuster in the correct range.

The other fork, that won't come apart, is well and truly knacked.

I'm heading to the shop now to machine special aluminum vise jaws to grip the stanchion tube so I can remove the lower section and feed the stanchion back up through, and out the top of, the fork tube.