‘09 1100 cranks but won’t run.

[srmauer]

My 2009 1100 will turn over fine but won't run. It will run fine as long as I'm spraying carb cleaner into the throttle bodies. Fuel pressure is good. I plugged a noid tester into the injector harness and it will blink once, then a couple of times weakly, and then not at all. I have to turn the key off and wait a couple of minutes to get that first strong blink again. The engine responds to that first little bit of fuel by trying to fire for just the briefest of moments. What would cause the injectors to not fire or stop firing after once or twice in that fashion? I've searched but haven't found this particular issue addressed. Thanks for any help. Steve

[stopintime]

I'm not an expert, but never the less I'll point out that the fuel pump needs a fresh battery. How old is yours?

Also; filter clean?

[srmauer]

The battery is good, fuel pump good, and filter is almost new. I have good fuel pressure. The injectors are not getting a signal to fire.

[ducpainter]

The signal comes from the ecu. The sensors involved could be faulty. I'd look at the crank sensor.

[Howie]

Crank sensor will definitely cause a no start.  Do not rule out what stopintime said about the battery.  On your big twin cranking speed might sound good to your ear, but the voltage could still drop below what the computer needs to see before firing up.  You could try jump starting and see what happens.

[srmauer]

Voltage is one thing I did find mentioned in lots of posts concerning no start issues. I have gone through all of those tests and have good battery voltage, good charging voltage (while it's running on carb cleaner sprayed into air box), and the starter cable upgrade has been done. I took your advice and hooked it to a good car battery with car running. The injectors are not getting the pulsing voltage they need to fire. Only blinks once or twice upon first key-on/press-start cycle. I will look into testing the crank sensor next. Thanks to all of you. Steve

[koko64]

Has the bike sat for a long time with hi octane fuel?

[srmauer]

It rarely sits for a week. I ride it on a regular basis.

[koko64]

 

[Howie]

If I remember correctly the crankshaft sensor on your bike is hall effect.  Easy enough to confirm.  It will have three wires.  One wire is 12 volts, one is ground and one is the input signal to the ECU.  Find the 12 volt wire and ground (you can determine that on the harness side with the key on).  Power the sensor up.  Pass ferrous metal near the sensor.  A wrench would work fine.  The third wire should show about 5.5 volts.  If not you need a sensor.  If I did a not so good job of describing this bench test I'm sure there are some youtube how-tos out there.

[srmauer]

Thanks howie. Easy enough to understand. Too busy today. I will check it tomorrow and post the test results. Steve

[srmauer]

Finally getting around to checking the crank sensor. I found the ground but I don't have 12 volts going to any of the three terminals. Tried key off, key on, and while cranking. According to the wiring diagram, there is a crank + wire, a crank - wire, and a shield wire. I'm confused about this shield wire concept. I'm an auto mechanic, so EFI systems are not foreign to me. It's just a lot easier with a scanner than a multimeter. 😬 Steve

[Howie]

You're on the way!  The problem, most likely, is an open circuit on the way to the sensor.  Shielded wire are used on cars too, prevents unwanted noise.

[DuciD03]

... couldnt resist ...lol

is there gas in the tank? 

[srmauer]

Ha       Ha       Ha