Marks (now solo) M1100 (mis) adventures!

[Mhanis]

Mhanis: If you haven't heard back from the 3D printer shop, see if they have a scanner they could use to quickly and easily [fewer $ ?] do a scan of the old part to create your replacement piece?  The cost of some of these things has gone down dramatically over the past few years. Even a few small shops around my area have purchased the scanners. They make creating a new, duplicate piece really easy.

..... just throwing it out there. Good luck!

Progress is being made!


1677870582562blob by Mark Hanis, on Flickr


Mark

[koko64]

 

[ungeheuer]

I'll buy one 

[Charlie98]

Awesome!

[Mhanis]

On the throttle cable cam, the printing is complete:

20230308_173022 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr


20230308_173034 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr


It is a good, solid piece and I am happy with it. He used the metal piece from the inside of the original piece. He laid down half the thickness of material, dropped the metal piece into the part and continued building on top of the metal piece until it was complete.

He has made a CAD replica of the metal piece so he could duplicate everything. The cheapest option for someone doing this after me is to send him your metal insert and let him build around it. If anyone really would consider that I'll ask him what the cost would be. If anyone wants to contact him directly it is John at 3 Dallas Printing: http://3dallasprinting.com/

Specifying black from the get go would have been a better idea on my part. He offered to re-make it but I am anxious to get back to work on the thing.

Speaking of re-assembly:

I have the throttle body back in. I found the secret on my own: harsh language proved effective. I used a bit of grease on the manifolds, I got the vertical one in first, MOST of the way. Not fully seated but all the way around the TB, then I got the horizontal one inserted the same amount. Once they were both captured inside the manifolds i fully seated them all the way in.

Do not want to do again.

The crankcase breather valve is a definite problem:

20230304_144249 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr


For the life of me I cannot figure out why this one is different. Not only is it angled but the diameter of the male end is different (larger). I have ordered a new one and I just have to hope that the new one is identical to my original one and not the same as the one off the new motor. If I remember right when I received the motor the previous owner had replaced the hose with a filter, but I don't know why he'd have changed the breather valve itself. And he also must have had an after market exhaust because there is no way the OEM exhaust will fit with that breather valve in place.

My goal was to have this done before MotoGp in Mid-April and I am afraid I am not going to make it. Waiting on parts has eaten a LOT of time. First the throttle cam, now the breather and I am still waiting on chain/sprockets etc.....

That is all for now.

Mark

[Mhanis]

Battery Tender lead:

I have been using my lead for years to run my heated gear, but I cannot run it full on for fear of breaking the fuse. That happened once and on these Monsters that fuse is buried DEEP in the bike; no getting to that fuse on the side of the road.

Anywhoo, I bought a second lead for the sole purpose of running my gear. It has a 7.5A fuse it in. Do you see any problem with me putting in a higher amp fuse to not worry about blowing it?

If yes; what amps do you guys recommend?

Mark

[ducpainter]

As long as the wire gauge is sufficient to handle 7.5 amps, and assuming you're going direct to the battery, go for it.

[greenmonster]

Looks like your new breather is SBK one:
https://www.gothamcycles.com/848-1098-11981346079198/Ducati-Oil-Crankcase-Breather-Valve-848-11981346662046.html

Swap to the old engine  one?

[ungeheuer]

Great work on the throttle cam 

[beethoven]

Hey
Most of those 7.5 amp leads are 18g for battery tender currents. Check the wire gauge supplied.
For 10 amp 16g is recommended and14g for 15amp.
Hope that helps


Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable
16-gauge wire   13 amps
14-gauge wire   15 amps
12-gauge wire   20 amps
10-gauge wire   30 amps

[ducpainter]

Hey
Most of those 7.5 amp leads are 18g for battery tender currents. Check the wire gauge supplied.
For 10 amp 16g is recommended and14g for 15amp.
Hope that helps


Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable
16-gauge wire   13 amps
14-gauge wire   15 amps
12-gauge wire   20 amps
10-gauge wire   30 amps

That will work for short runs, but DC requires larger wire size as the run length increases.

[Charlie98]

Mark, I have 12ga stranded wire... if you want, I can try to build you a wiring lead that will handle more current.  I'd need the plug, obviously, and the length of run you need.  I can also put a fuse holder where you can get to it...   

[Mhanis]

make the beast with two backsin' A dudes!!!!!!


20230325_165702 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr



You caught a brief glimpse of all 'round good guy Dennis (Charlie 98) at the end, SHE LIVES!!!

If you click the image It'll take you to a quick video.

A VERY excited.....

Mark!!!

[koko64]

 

[Howie]