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Author Topic: Ducati 1000 DS build  (Read 4184 times)
diamonddog-2
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« Reply #30 on: March 05, 2023, 07:46:35 AM »

The hydrodipping video clip was really interesting. Thank you for posting all the things you do.

 applause
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2001 M900S   2002 Aero 1100   2012 1100 EVO

"Son, I hope God gave you a big d*ck 'cause he sure shorted you on brains"
Howie
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« Reply #31 on: March 05, 2023, 11:37:48 AM »

Is hydrodipping that easy or are you so good you make it look easy?
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buzzer
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« Reply #32 on: March 06, 2023, 02:42:04 AM »

Is hydrodipping that easy or are you so good you make it look easy?

with a few tips its easy... 

you need a base coat, silver or gold works well with carbon

wet your fingers, pinch the film, the finger that sticks, that's the side that goes on the water.

water needs to be around 30 degrees

leave 1" around the film so it can expand in the tub

spray 12" away...

think about the dip angle, for air pockets and coverage don't go to fast

if you screw up, wipe it off with panel wipe and do it again

once dipped leave 5 mins and was the item under the tap.  keep going until all the slimy film goes, about 5 mins, gently touch the surface to see its all gone (important bit!)

let it dry a day, cover with a lacquer.  2K is best, and also now comes in aerosol


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buzzer
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« Reply #33 on: March 06, 2023, 03:00:10 AM »

Polishing day… I did the engine cases a few weeks ago. I then set a side a full day to polish the rest of the alloy… its a dirty, hard, and somewhat dangerous job! the swinging arm took ages! I used to do it in the workshop, but it made such a mess I now do it on the drive. I have a 2.5 HP 3000 RPM motor that I use that is an absolute beast and takes no prisoners if you get it wrong.

Its mentally draining to do actually, thinking about the angle you present the item to the wheel each time. I sand everything with 400 Mirka Abranet first (if you have not come across that product its a game changer, you will never use wet and dry again!) I use an 8"  closed stitched mop and medium compound, followed by a loose mop with fine compound. I use some very fine compound on the stainless.

That evening I had a bath as I was so filthy. I actually used fairy liquid to clean me off as ordinary soap doesn’t touch it. Next day I absolutely ached all over!

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buzzer
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« Reply #34 on: March 08, 2023, 09:00:48 AM »

the engine parts I had been waiting for came, and I finished off the belt covers.  I also made the housing for the hall effect triggers, the most accurate bit of machining I have done in years as I needed to locate the sensors exactly 135 degrees apart.  I will post some pictures later on that.  But for now here is the engine!



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buzzer
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« Reply #35 on: March 10, 2023, 06:05:41 AM »

A nice part of the build is when you start to pull it all together. All that preparation of parts for months before all comes together quite quickly.  Grin



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buzzer
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« Reply #36 on: March 12, 2023, 07:51:05 AM »

One of the things that was missing on the bike when I bought it was a gear lever. No problem I though… until I saw the price! so I decided to make one, and while I was on, make it slightly longer to suit my big feet. I took the one off my other bike as a pattern. I milled it out of a solid piece of alloy plate, and then hand filed it all to shape, and gave it a polish, I was quite pleased with the result!

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buzzer
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« Reply #37 on: March 13, 2023, 09:42:14 AM »

out in the daylight for the first time in a while  Grin

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buzzer
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« Reply #38 on: March 16, 2023, 02:07:09 AM »

One of the things I wanted on this build was a clean looking rear end.  I struggled to find a rear light that was suitable, so in the end I have fitted three 10mm superbrite LED’s as a rear light, and used a resister and diode so its bright and then brighter to act as a stop light.



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buzzer
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« Reply #39 on: March 19, 2023, 05:30:19 AM »

I have made a few similar Hall Effect ignition pickups in the past and they have worked brilliantly. This is a refinement on those.  This time I have used an alloy cam wheel and put the magnets directly into that, rather than use a separate wheel.  the magnets are 3mm as opposed to the 4mm ones I have used in the past, lets hope they are OK!  I also swapped out the allen bolts for some none magnetic A4 ones just in case it picked those up.

Previously I have had a small discrepancy in the timing cylinder to cylinder, which is OK as I can compensate for that in the Ignitech software...  But it irritated me that I had to do that!  I put it down to my rotary table that is not the best and only measures degrees and its difficult to get the holes for the sensors precisely 135 degrees apart.  This this time I borrowed a mates table that is very accurate and can measure to minutes. It was a pleasure to use such a wonderful piece of quality kit!  Making the pickup plate took some time, probably the most accurate work I have done in a while!

I am not sure i needed the heat sink, but it looked aesthetically pleasing so I used it.



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