Spark plug diagnostic

[thegunner76]

Sooo. I removed my spark plugs and discovered I might have a problem...

The vertical is somewhat fine, with some burn marks around the nut



But the horizontal? picture speaks for it self...



I even see some residue in the tube, that might prove difficult to remove



And Im not sure how a piston on a 18 year old bike should look like... is this normal?



Do I have a big problem or no problem at all? I guess I can fit a bolt in there, while I clean the tube so nothing goes inwards

[Howie]

Looks to me like there was some excessive oil consumption going on in that cylinder.  Does the engine turn by hand?  History on the bike would help.

[thegunner76]

Yes, I can turn the engine without a problem.
Regarding the history of the bike, I dont have too much unfortenately. The previous owner had it serviced (valve check, belt change, oil, filter etc) in 2017, and never had any running problems. He didnt ride too much though, hence the sale to me last summer. It ran smoothly, before I started dismantling it.

[Howie]

I would want to change the belts before running the bike since they are 7 years old.  Yes, low mileage but they have been on the bike under tension. After that I would do exactly what you are doing, clean the external yuk, new NGK R2525-10 spark plugs gap .024.  Maybe fresh fuel too?

[koko64]

Water in the vert cylinder plug well rusting the plug hex from time in the weather? 
Maybe oil in chamber from an attempt to store the bike? (Hopefully).

Do all Howie said.
I want to see the air filter. How is the state of the fuel/fuel tank and fuel system?

[thegunner76]

I would want to change the belts before running the bike since they are 7 years old.  Yes, low mileage but they have been on the bike under tension. After that I would do exactly what you are doing, clean the external yuk, new NGK R2525-10 spark plugs gap .024.  Maybe fresh fuel too?

So no need of opening the engine? What a relief!
Yes, belt change is way over due so its on my list. I need to remove them anyway, while checking the valves. The bike is undergoing the supreme spa treatment, getting checked, washed and repainted, but doing surgery inside the engine is something I hope to avoid.

Regarding the rusty plug, I guess I'll refit the better one while spraying the chamber down with wd-40 (sounds good?) and air blow/ clean the heck of it. And of course install new ones.
So you recomend NGK R2525-10 over the old NGK CR9EIX that was installed? The bike is a 04' S4R

[thegunner76]

Water in the vert cylinder plug well rusting the plug hex from time in the weather? 
Maybe oil in chamber from an attempt to store the bike? (Hopefully).

Do all Howie said.
I want to see the air filter. How is the state of the fuel/fuel tank and fuel system?

The air filter is something else Id like to change.



Previous owner had Termis on and cut the top of the filter box



Im going to refit the OEM exhaust system and put the lid back on (It was the race only termis)

Apart from a broken fuel gauge sensor the rest of the fuel system is fine

[Howie]

Actually that is the plug NGK recommends.  Do you have the owners manual for the bike?  At small gaps the spark kernel is not ideal for proper ignition with an iridium plug. 

Assuming the bike has a DP ECU or has been flashed the bike will run rich with the closed air box and stock exhaust.  If it was my bike I would probably just install DB killers, assuming the Termis are in goodnuf condition.

[thegunner76]

Yeah, the manual actually says DCPR9EVX, but Ive read there is better around. I dont mind trying the 2525-10 if that is what you recomend.

The ECU is OEM and hasnt been flashed, but yeah Ive been told the race-termis is the way to ride. I wont sell them, so I'll see. The stock exhaust system came with the bike, so I can always change it back if I get pulled over

[Howie]

Go with the manual.

[thegunner76]

Go with the manual.

They also recomended the Champion RA 59 GC. Just found out both are discontinued, so Im back to square one. I emailed Ducati now just to be sure, as I wont be needing them any time soon anyway. I'll post their reply.

But you guys dont have any objection with me cleaning the well with Wd-40, right?

[ducpainter]

Yeah, the manual actually says DCPR9EVX, but Ive read there is better around. I dont mind trying the 2525-10 if that is what you recomend.

The ECU is OEM and hasnt been flashed, but yeah Ive been told the race-termis is the way to ride. I wont sell them, so I'll see. The stock exhaust system came with the bike, so I can always change it back if I get pulled over

According to NGK, that plug has been replaced by the EIX plug, but not the one that was installed.

Item has been discontinued. This product may be used as a replacement:

NGK 2316 DCPR9EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug

I like NGK plugs better than the Champions.

[thegunner76]

According to NGK, that plug has been replaced by the EIX plug, but not the one that was installed.

Item has been discontinued. This product may be used as a replacement:

NGK 2316 DCPR9EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug

I like NGK plugs better than the Champions.

Cheers, Ducpainter. It seems alot of people agree with you regarding NGK

[thegunner76]

According to NGK, that plug has been replaced by the EIX plug, but not the one that was installed.

Item has been discontinued. This product may be used as a replacement:

NGK 2316 DCPR9EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug

I like NGK plugs better than the Champions.

And right you were Ducpaint... According to the official Ducati shop, they use NGK 2316 DCPR9EIX Iridium IX.

The one installed was NGK 3521 CR9EIX Iridium IX, which I guess the previous owner thought was the same?
This could be the culprit of the discoloured piston, right?

[ducpainter]

And right you were Ducpaint... According to the official Ducati shop, they use NGK 2316 DCPR9EIX Iridium IX.

The one installed was NGK 3521 CR9EIX Iridium IX, which I guess the previous owner thought was the same?
This could be the culprit of the discoloured piston, right?

IMO, only partially. I believe you may have bad valve seals, and it's also possible that deposit is from too high octane fuel. Contrary to popular opinion, and confusion created by the different octane rating systems in the US and the rest of the world, our stock engined Ducs only need 87 octane. I think you're in OZ, so I'd recommend 91. Stock motors are not high enough compression to require more octane, unless you have some pinging due to tuning issues.

Here's what I'd do. I'd start using some Chevron Techron to remove some of that carbon... https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/techron-complete-fuel-system-cleaner.html , run only 87/91 octane fuel, have the valves professionally adjusted, or DIY if you're up to it, and see what 's what in 10K km.