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Author Topic: Ride Height  (Read 2015 times)
Bbrent
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'08 S4RS Tricolore


« on: August 10, 2008, 12:44:40 AM »

I'm planning on adjusting the ride height on my S4RS. I know this is going to be a pain from everything I have read. Am I going to have to take the whole rod out?
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stopintime
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S2R 800 '07


« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2008, 12:47:27 AM »

After what I heard, it works like the gear shaft connection - one clockwise and one counter. Others will correct me if I'm wrong......
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252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it
DerekB.
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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2008, 05:09:24 AM »

Mine ride height had never been adjusted before so I had to take the rod out, factory loctite was too tight.  Once it was out though, no problem.
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-     '05 S2R - Carbon Arrow, Open Box and Chopped.     -
Ivan
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Turn 3 at Streets of Willow


« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2008, 06:45:40 AM »

I had no problem adjusting mine for the first time, without removing the tie rod.  The lock nuts were tight, but not stupid tight.  Just make sure that you have a good pair of open-end wrenches on hand.
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Sold: 2007 S2R1000 for canyon carving and commuting - DP ECU, PCIII, BMC air filter with open box, Zard full exhaust, Race-tech fork internals, Ohlins steering damper, and a Penske 8987 triple clicker

2000 996XU (extra ugly) for track days - BST carbon wheels, Ohlins shock, reworked fork, FBF exhaust, and a bunch of megacycle rocker arms. The rest of it is junk - Hey, I'm just happy that it runs...

Sold: 2002 Aprilia RST1000 for touring - De-restricted airbox, Taylormade Racing exhaust
uclabiker06
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"The time you enjoy wasting isn't wasted"


« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2008, 11:08:43 AM »

To just adjust it you don't need to take it out.  If you are increasing the height be very careful because if it is adjusted past a certain length the ends will come out of the rod.  In other words there has to be a certain amount of threads that remain in the rod.  If you are lowering this is not an issue.  Look at the ends of the rod and see if there are any threads by the lock nuts at the ends of the rod.  If there are none then you cant adjust it any lower unless you install a different rod that allows for lower settings.  Good luck. 
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Life is never ours to keep, we borrow it and then we have to give it back.
2006 S2R
2009 Smart
mmakay
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695


« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2008, 08:55:03 PM »

Does anybody know the stock rod length of the various Monster models?  620/695?  750/900?  S*R?
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LA
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The Sleek Black Beauty


« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2008, 07:06:18 AM »

I had to take my adj. rod off to do mine. It's not so bad though. Just make sure you have good baseline measurements so you can reliably gauge how much lift you have made. I put mine up one inch.  I think the max listed in the manual is to leave five threads showing.

With a pit bull holding the rear, I used a car floor jack under the sump to hold the bike while doing the work, but I was careful to put a lot of soft material under the sump. Jesus I'd hate to crack the sump - can you say suicide!

Good luck,

LA
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"I'm leaving this one totally stock" - Full Termi kit, Ohlins damper, Pazzo levers, lane splitters, 520 quick change 14/43 gears, DP gold press plate w/open cover, Ductile iron rotors w/cp211 pads.

R90S (hot rod), 80-900SS, Norton 850 MkIII, S4RS
hypurone
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Life is not AROUND the corner, Life IS the corner!


« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2008, 10:26:41 AM »

I did mine in the bike. Just remember that one end is left-hand threads!! It should be the end with the notches in the nit and collar... and yes they were MF'in tight!  Angry But between a really good wrench and a flare nut wrench and a crow's foot I got her done.  waytogo Raised mine 3/4 of an inch, sweetness.
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'07 S4RS "Testatretta" (In the FASTER color)
I'm not totally useless, I can be used as a bad example!
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