Ducati Monster Forum

OK, guys.  Some of you know why this poll is here.  Others may have no clue.  Either way, please answer honestly so we have a basis from which to work.  

If you have specific thoughts or feedback please don't hesitate to sing out!

Please note, the poll allows two (2) votes per person....just in case you like boobies with your service.   [thumbsup]

You left off:  Dealer? Whats that? I do all my own maintenance and live life with that stupid maintenance wrench on my screen all of the time.    [thumbsup]   Boobies should always be included with service.

I do all my own maintenance as well but, I think people would be willing to take their bikes to a different shop if the service was good and the prices were more reasonable.

Hey Ratfink, I have the VDST software and cables if you'd like to get rid of that maintenance light some day  [laugh]

I have no alliance to PJ's. Issues with dealers generally involve timeliness- they're busier. Issues with a non-dealer shop is usually parts availability. I generally do my own oil changes, but maintenance items such as valve adjustment would be something I'd take the bike to an independent shop for.

I didn't check "boobies" because it's not specific enough: Whose boobies?

BOOBIES!!  thats all i ever vote for  [popcorn]


on a side note...i trust you guys to do work! i like Pjs and never had a problem but i rode with you guys and i know what you all are capable of doing and think it is an excellent idea [thumbsup]

Duely noted.  Option added.

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Hmmm, none of the options (except for boobies of course) seemed to fit for me...
I try to do as much of the minor maintenance myself as I can, but not wanting to screw anything up, I rely on professionals for the serious stuff. I just don't the experience or the tools to zero out cam shafts, adjust valves, or adjust belts.

Dealers certainly have their place. They have parts, tools, & maybe knowledge that independents might not have. Even stuff we might not think about, like insurance if something happens, & of course we go to Dealers for warranty work.

There are 2 independent in Dallas that I use, depending on the situation, so it varies.

Hope that helps [thumbsup]

Boobies [beer]

I'd tend to agree with you, Scott.  You're about where I was ten years ago, or so.  Now, I've adjusted more valves, changed more belts, and rebuilt more fuels systems than I ever thought possible.  Stuart has done even more.

This whole thing came up when Tom Rolland tried to have his 851 looked at a few weeks ago and was told that PJ's would prefer not to service bikes over ten years old.  Tom's 851 is over twenty years old at this point, so I think it definitely falls into that category.  So does my Supersport.  Lots of other folks' stuff does, too.  Heck, my newest bike is an '02 MH900e that's nearly there!

Those folks who own older hardware are going to be up the creek soon if there's no independent to fill the void, so Stuart and I are considering jumping into the breach.  In fact, I should probably say that we're already in the process of filing the paperwork to set up Desert Desmo, L.L.C. as a legitimate business entity in the State of New Mexico. 

(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/desertdesmo/DesertDesmoBox.jpg)

Right now, we're just talking about doing routine maintenance for all years and models of Ducatis and other European makes.....oil changes, tires, valves, belts, brakes, forks, etc.....and top end work....cams, overbores, headwork, etc.....with other things judged on a case-by-case basis, depending on our comfort level and the time required to do the job correctly.

Right now we're going to work out of my home garage until we can build a customer base and see how much fixed cost the business might support.  All thoughts are greatly appreciated.

One word- Marketing. Get your name out. Can I follow you on Twitter? Will you be offering specials (oil changes for discounted prices)? Will the Desert Desmo logo adorn your vintage racer?

L.T. Snyder of Desmo Times seems to have built a reputation by publishing his own shop manuals. YouTube is a good way to go viral. Maybe a short video illustrating a simple DIY procedure.

Or, go Wall Street and sell stock.

No, Scott, I agree with you ;D

It's fairly common for dealers to not work on stuff older than 10 years. Sounds like you have a good plan.

Another bennie for me, is that with the 2 independents I have used in Dallas, I make an appointment & they do it while I wait. I drink their beer, ask questions, & hassle them [roll] None of that drop it off & wait a month stuff... Peeps could order tires (or other parts) & have them shipped directly to the techs, ride over, get serviced, leave a small pile of green & ride away happy. (Of course some work has to be done on a "cold" bike or take longer than a day, but, you know...)

 [thumbsup] Great name and Wish you the BEST friends!

I thought about this a lot & here are my views. I have been with PJ's for 4 years now and Shannon serviced my last 2 bikes as well. I trust him and since I have no skills in the garage beyond an IDIOT & in many cases ride on the edge, it has paid off through time. What also makes a difference is that it is a BUSINESS and I don't have personal commitments to any one there! I'm not very old and come from a culture of families, deeply built through generations of trust. I have learn't from forefathers that business and friendship have a narrow line of separation. It is very easy to break reputation and very tough to build it! When you maintain a list of clients and trust on friendship to rely on the maturity of business, you need to think more...since a broken trust with a friend usually breaks a chain of friends. Eventually, I'm hoping you will develop this beyond the closest circle and build the trust beyond a grapevine. Having said all this beyond my age should, I trust you and I'll count on the fact the you will not let a friend down!  I'm in Sales and every other day I have clients I have to guide to a competition as we are not a suitable solution, though we have workarounds to solve their problem! Integrity goes a long way and I'm hoping when you have a task that someone else may do better, you wouldn't hesitate to point them the right way.  [beer]

As a similar instance, I have a local mechanic for my truck in Santa Fe and I trust her (Nope, not a mistake, it is a LADY!) for any work beyond the dealership.

You will have my bike- and the future -(s).  [thumbsup] I may think a million times before a big valve service job on a 8-valve 1098 though! For some like me, a bike is more than a machine...it is everything life means and everything I work & live for! [bow_down]

I agree with you, J.J.  Any business that I'd want to be part of would be run more as a confederation of friends and like minded enthusiasts than as a hard-line-just-in-it-for-the-money affair.  

Not to put too fine a point on it, but I did lots of research when a friend (Paul Bunde) opened a Ducati dealership (NPR Ducati) in Watkinsville, GA (outside of Athens where UGa is located) and I put lots of thought into what makes a dealership a "destination" shop, like Fast-By-Ferracci, Advanced Motorsports, or ProItalia.  I decided that all of those shops share not only a heritage of performance, but the trust of the people they deal with, so that's where I'd start.  It's easy to keep people happy when they genuinely trust you and your work.  I already consider all of you guys and girls my family, so it shouldn't be hard for me to look any of you in the eye and give you an honest assessment of our capabilities and what I believe to be your best option, whether it's us or someone else.

As to valves on a 1098, the bike was built for maintenance compared to something like an 851, so I don't think it'd be a problem.  We don't have a shim kit for them, yet, but PJ's does and we're working on a parts agreement with him.  We'll eventually stock both the 8mm valve stems used on most two valvers and the 7mm ones used on most four valvers and some two valvers....there's also a 6mm used on 749S, 749R, some 999R, and all 1098R models, but we won't stock those unless I buy a 1098R.   ;D

Once we have shims you should be able to make an appointment, bring your bike on a trailer (valves have to be adjusted cold.....you can start hot but you have to let it cool a while before you can accurately measure lash), watch the work done (or go goof off in Albuquerque for the day), and take it home, all on the same day.  Until then, we have a pretty good selection of 8mm shims and can have the 7mm ones within a day from PJ's.  We have a list of parts we should stock (a pretty long list comprising 7mm and 8mm shims, several timing belts, oil filters, oil, gaskets, slave cylinder seals, and a few other odds and ends) and of equipment we should buy (not nearly as long....we've got lots already between us....a tire mounting rig is close to the top of this list), so it's just a matter of time before we get to a more comfortable place.

We intend to schedule only one or two bikes in the shop at a time to begin with, so we should be able to provide a more personalized experience than most service technicians.

Also, just to make things clear, none of this is a knock on PJ or PJ's service department.  I count PJ among my friends and, as far as I know, PJ's service people do excellent work and enjoy a good reputation within our community.    We've been working with PJ throughout this whole process and he's told me personally that he supports our efforts.  He seems genuinely relieved to have someone to whom he can refer his customers with older bikes.  Likewise, Steve at MotoAuthority has been looking for an independent to whom he can refer Ducati maintenance, so we're doubly encouraged to jump into the pool and learn to swim!

Once again, thanks for your feedback and your support.  Our schedule is open, so holler when you're ready!!!

... Well damnit.. That's not much help to me then...   ;D

You'll also need the tools to break off an reseat the tapered retainers for all of said S and R model closer shims. Also.. find the secret that some dealers seem to have pertaining to NOT removing the heads from the bike to install the closer shims.  I've heard it can be done, just not sure exactly how.

That secret is called "compressed air", Wayne.  Maybe you've heard of it?   :P

As to tools, I generally make my own version of factory tools unless there's considerable machining involved.  If that's the case, there are usually knock-offs available.  In the case of later four valvers, I think the factory tools are in order.

The 1098 manual instructs the technician to remove the engine from the bike, then remove the heads for service.  I'll have to get the 749 manual to see if it's the same.  You can check the valves with the engine in the bike, but actual adjustment is pretty rough on 848/1098 models.  After reading the manual, I now know why a 1098 ADJUSTMENT is expensive, but a check is pretty reasonable.

(Smacking forehead) for as many valve springs as I've replaced using this method.. I'm surprised I didn't think of this.  749D valves weren't too bad to check or adjust.  Checked the S's once. Haven't had enough of a clearance issue yet to justify altering them.  Another 3000 and then I'll worry about it.

Hey All,

The lack of any independent Ducati support had bothered me since I got back in April.  At that time, all I had for employment was PJ's and I promised him I wouldn't open a competing business.  Well, since then I've got a different job and he has opened up to the idea of an independent working WITH him to help service needs of Ducati riding New Mexicans.  I'm very excited about all of this and Scott's done a great job expressing our enthusiasm so far.  This is going to be really good!!

--Stu

Both of you enjoy doing this type of work and there is nothing more fullfilling than transforming
your hobby or passion into a business (Pam can vouch for that).
Since you are doing this on the side for now you can get a feel for the potential of this
becoming a full time business. Nothing ventured...nothing gained.
I have a 15,000 mile service coming up on my Monster and a constant tire problem ;)

Thank you guys for doing an awesome job on my bike. I'm extremely happy the way it runs and how the front brakes have improved.
The written detailed assesment and the pictures portraying your attention to detail creates a whole new business model when it comes to servicing motorcycles and customer service.
You obviously put a lot of thought into taking motorcycle service to a higher level. 

Karl,

Thanks so much for the kind words.  Scott & I have thought long and hard about how to structure this venture and we both feel very strongly about bringing professional, honest and cost-effective service to our fellow New Mexico Ducati owners.

It was our pleasure to have helped keep this motorcycle going strong and to have helped a dear friend.

--Stuart  [thumbsup]

 [clap] [clap] [clap]

If I had a Duc, Stew would be the one working on it  [thumbsup]

Cheers,
Adam

Desert Desmo does work on other European makes on a case-by-case basis BTW...  But there's also the proximity thing...

Pish posh, it's just an excuse for an epic ride  ;D

Cheers,
Adam

So, what is the contact information for Desert Desmo?

I pretty sure it's (505) 238-0323, if that doesn't work PM me.

Alternatively, you can PM myself or 'Cloner', call the above #, or dial me up @ 505-359-1500

That's my cell, so feel free to use it.  Sorry if you tried before Monday, but my old cell finally died and had to be replaced.  Since it's a company phone (from my "real" job) we had to order it through our corporate purchasing department and it took over a week to get it shipped and activated, but it's up and working now, so dial away!

What do you ride, and what do you need done to it, ducmot?

Not to threadjack, but you guys should look into Google Voice if you haven't - you can have it forward to different numbers / cell phones, it has voice mail, call screening, etc.  I use it and it's brilliant  [thumbsup]

Cheers,
Adam

We have a Google Voice number, too, Adam, but we just give our cell numbers to our friends.  It saves a layer of complication (as the GV number just forwards to our cells) and we know nothing gets lost!

Thanks for the number(s).  I will keep them for future use!

I know I've always encouraged you guys to change your brake fluid more often, but I've never really tried to explain why it's so important in motorcycles.  I read a post in the "Tech" section this morning where a gent was trying to diagnose a condition where his brakes failed four times during a ride, and after reading his narrative I'm positive that his problem is lack maintenance...not changing his brake fluids..., so I thought a quick primer in Brake Fluids 101 was warranted.

First, I'll explain the differences between types of brake fluids and why you might consider one versus another.  Bear in mind whilst reading this that the WET boiling point is the one we should consider most strongly, as street bikes typically keep the same fluid in their systems long enough to approach that point.  Racers only consider the dry boiling point, as they typically change brake fluids multiple times annually, often between races....unless you race a bike with brake cables like me   ;D:

DOT 3 fluid is a polyethelene glycol-based brake fluid that is the "standard" for all modern braking systems.  It has good dry and wet boiling characteristics, with a specified minimum dry boiling point of 401°F and a minimum wet boiling point of 284°F

DOT 4 fluid is also glycol based, but typically has additives to reduce corrosion within the braking system due to the water that glycol based fluids naturally attract, as they are all hygroscopic in nature.  The minimum boiling points of DOT 4 fluid are higher than those of DOT 3, with a dry boiling point of 446°F and a wet boiling point of 311°F.  Ducati currently recommend DOT 4 brake fluid in all vehicles they manufacture.

DOT 5 brake fluid is SILICONE based and is NOT COMPATIBLE with DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 brake fluids, as silicone and glycol combined act to consume the braking system's seals!  DOT 5 fluids have higher minimum boiling points than DOT 3 or 4 fluids, at 500° dry and 356° wet, but extreme care must be taken if you decide to use this fluid.  Silicone brake fluids are NOT hygroscopic, but rather leach air, so care must be taken in bleeding such systems.  Silicone brake fluids also will not damage painted surfaces like glycol based fluids, so they are often chosen for use in vintage braking systems where appearance is paramount.  DOT 5 brake fluids should never be used in ABS equipped systems or in those that have previously been filled with a glycol based fluid!  DOT 5 brake fluids are typically dyed purple so as to distinguish them from other types.

DOT 5.1 brake fluid is, again, a glycol based fluid.  The use of the DOT 5.1 designation is confusing to some people, so it should be made plain that DOT 5.1 fluids are compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids, but are NOT COMPATIBLE with DOT 5 brake fluid!  DOT 5.1 brake fluid has the highest minimum boiling points of any type, at 518°F and 374°F.  DOT 5.1 is a lighter viscosity glycol-based fluid with that was developed for use in ABS systems that need to cycle on and off quickly.

Bear in mind that these boiling points are specified minimums, and that several DOT 4 brake fluids exceed the boiling point requirements for DOT 5.1, but are still classified as DOT 4 due to other, primarily viscosity, specificaitons!

I recently stumbled across this comparison chart of several commercially available brake fluids and their characteristics:

(http://www.ducatisportingclub.com/images/dsc/shazaam/BrakeFluidsBP.jpg)

From that chart, it seems that Castrol SRF is the best, but it's hard to find and four-times more expensive than the others.  It is, however, and used by every Formula 1 team in existence because it’s boiling point drops very little as it absorbs moisture.

The next best appears to be Motul RBF 600.  It is readily available, reasonably priced, and it has excellent boiling characteristics.  It purportedly tends to absorb water more quickly than the others so it seems to be best suited for racing applications where the fluid is changed very frequently.  I think I'll start using this in all of my bikes in lieu of the Castrol LMA I've used for the last ten years, as I change my brake fluids at least yearly and often twice yearly!

The thing that's interesting, however, is the obvious degradation of boiling point as the fluid absorbs water....so change that brake fluid, Boys and Girls!!

Great detail Scott, thanks! But, since I could never successfully bleed my brakes... I have Desert Desmo to my rescue. What does the boiling point have to do with street use? Can frictional Or viscous heat reach boiling temperatures? F1 yes but street?

Well said in 1000 words... Or more  :)
I've been using the SRF for a coule of years & the Mobil 1 for 15+.
Used  the Sylcoline when I ran the dealership, and it worked great, but went back to the other the past year.  That being said,  after riding the crap outa bikes for almost 4 decades, I have never had any failure due to fluids. The key, like Scott has shown, is use the correct visc's & #'s for your application.
If you have a bike that has separate trans fluid, well, that's an entirely different story.

You'll know when you have the right combo for you when you go for a ride & don't worry about it. 

JJ, Answer, nothing. I got a free case of the Castrol. Bike still stops & goes... Go figure?
My original 08 battery took a crap though. 13k in 4 months, then 3 in 2yrs probably has something to do with that.  :(

Edit: Brakes are slow  ;D

It is VERY possible to make brake fluid boil in spirited street use, especially if you're very hard on the brakes for an extended period of time (like coming down the Crest road, or riding Deal's Gap.....or riding at Sandia!).  The gent in the thread I mentioned in my original post actually had his REAR brake go away, I believe due to boiling.  I don't know if he was dragging it or what, but he almost certainly boiled the fluid from his description of the issue.

Long answer short.....it's probably not a problem for 90% of riders because they'll never ride hard enough to have this occur, but it is definitely possible at the pace we've occasionally seen on our rides .

    ???

   

Fixed it.    [laugh]

 
   

Come on, Keith.  You remember.  Go fast....slow down...turn.  Go fast some more....slow down....turn.  Lather, rinse, repeat.  You can do EEETTTT.....if you'll get your ass on a bike!   [moto]

No kidding.  I'm the proud owner of a 20k paper weight
 Ive always made fun of people like me. 08 with 16k...embaresing  :(

OK...so I guess I haven't mentioned this to you guys before (unless you've had your bike serviced at Desert Desmo), but one of the things we do to document the work we do and the condition of your bike during its service is to set up a photo album online so that you can see what we're doing (if you don't want to sit and watch....which you're also welcome to do).  I wouldn't mention this except that J.J. mentioned that we should show Karl the photos of his tail section so that, in a fit of jealousy, he could order one for himself, so....Karl....if you want to spend more money on your 1098, just look at these:

http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/JJs%201098%20Rebuild%20Winter%202011/ (http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/JJs%201098%20Rebuild%20Winter%202011/)

I've linked the entire album so that you can kind of see what we've done for J.J.'s bike.  To see a photo full sized, just click on it.

For those with no knowledge of this bike, it was wrecked last fall and we're rebuilding it for J.J. over the winter.  The bike was ridden last weekend, so mechanically we've cinched it up, and now we're just making it pretty.  J.J. has bought a complete set of carbon fiber body work that we're fitting now, and he intends to buy a black tank to use with that bodywork until he decides whether or not he'll paint it or leave it "black"...or "carbon fiber colored"....or whatever you want to call that glorious finish!

Anybody else want some carbon fiber goodies?  Yum yum!!

Just a quick teaser: 

(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/JJs%201098%20Rebuild%20Winter%202011/JJsRebuildBodyworkFittingOne006.jpg)

Bear in mind my crappy camera doesn't do the bodywork any justice at all.  It's three times as gorgeous in person!!

Nice looking ride JJ...can't wait to see you ride it [thumbsup]

  Of course I'd take my 851 Scott and Swewart.... I know them, and PJ's was a little less than really wanting to touch a 20 year old 851 after they did the initial service.... Of course they'll be coming to me for Beveldrive advce:) And any Ducati belt buckles they may need too. Tom Rolland "Nothing flies like a Duck" Buckle maker and general clever little fart@tm, Right Reverend Church of Ducati (Beveldrive Synod), Commander Flying 350 Condor Squadron, just google Ducati belt buckles if you don't understand some of the honorifics....

You forgot "All Around Nice Guy", Tom.   ;)

Those of you who don't have one of Tom's belt buckles....Shame on you!  They're pretty.   [thumbsup]

Sorry, just not the same without a picture ;D


(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/zaster99/001.jpg)

Excellent, Karl.  And it should be noted that they're available in Brass (as pictured) or Sterling Silver!

I don't have an email address for you, Larry, but I thought you'd like to see the photos of your Honda's recent service, so here ya go:  http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/Larrys%20Nighthawk%20March%202011/ (http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/Larrys%20Nighthawk%20March%202011/)

I'd still like to do a couple of things to it before you get it back, mostly look a little more closely at the front brakes.  I don't see anything glaringly wrong with them, but they do sound pretty rough.  I'll get it back to you tomorrow.

Cheers,

S

It is nice to see the top end off a nighthawk, cool ride Larry! I may have seen your son riding it once up to CAD.

Scott- There is a "black thing" staring at the Nighthawk in few pictures, is it for sale? :P

Nice job Scott! You made a masterpiece out of a turd! A turd I will gladly ride on I40!

Sure!  What's your offer.   ;D

JJ,
That is one awesome looking bike...the guys outdid themselves again [thumbsup]
If feels light and agile going into corners...was good to hang with you and Scott.

Got the Nighthawk back today rode around all night and not a drop of oil, no squeaky brakes! Mission accomplished Desert Desmo! A+

No doubt, for all those who missed a short PJ's meet: I am officially back in business...the Tricolore has come back as strong and light, call it carbcolore...kudos to Scott and Stuart aka Desert Desmo. It feels great to be on road and feel the torque! Cant wait to carve the crest with the refurbished beast...plain evil..wait for Scott to post few pics...Kingbaby you have a twin 1098....
Karl, as always great hanging with you and meeting Tom R.

I'm glad that you like the results, Joel.  I can't tell you what a pleasure it was to see the look on your face when we tightened the last screw and stepped back to look at it in the sunlight.  Priceless!  Ride it in good health, my friend.  I'll post the "final" photos of the project to your album Monday.

And thank you for the kind words, Larry.  I look forward to undertaking the modifications to your 450.  That looks like fun!

Thanks to all of you for your support.  You guys make Desert Desmo fun!!   [thumbsup]

Can't wait to see all the new hardware fellas. Sounds like you are all doing well, makes me  :)

Welcome to "The Dark Side", Joel.  Pics, Scott...PICS!!!

Edit: OOPS. just saw them on the other tread.   Sweeeeeeeet

Hey scott I took the new cb450 out for a faster spin and the reel wheel had some wobble to it. could it be a bad innertube or tire. Also the odometer works but the speedo isnt working. Sounds like a job for desert desmo

It's hard to know with spoked wheels, Larry.  It could be simply out of true, which can be fixed with a truing stand and a little time.  The gauge issue might be more difficult.  Typically, if the odo is working but the speedo isn't, there's a problem inside the gauge housing.   I know several folks who service gauges, so we might just dismount the gauge and send it for service if it's not something simple.

S

Upon closer inspection the wheel is out of true. Thanks for the gauge info.

Good thing I have a matching bike i can take the rim off of while I get this one straightened. Any wheel helpers???

Want I should order a truing stand?

upon very close inspection the tire is bad. The spokes are tight, if there in fact is any wobble it is minor but the tire is way out of whack. no in fact I would like to get started on the gas tank when you get a chance.

Bring that rust bucket on over and I'll get started.

King Karl,

I just bought the tool we need to do your fork seals and it should be here sometime this week.  Let us know when you'd like to address those leaky seals.  It might be a good time to go ahead and clean and lubricate the steering stem bearings, too, whilst the forks are off the bike.

Let me know when the tool arrives and the bike is yours pregnant dog [laugh]

We'll knock out that fuel filter @ the same time...  [thumbsup]

SCOTT! Can I get you my gas tank sometime soon?

Anytime you like, Larry.  If you want to bring it out today I'll be here all day, I think.  You are bringing the whole bike so we can do the carbs and ignition, too, right?

I have the wrench in my hands, Karl, so we're ready when you are.  Holler when you get a chance and we'll set up a date and time.  I guess I should order a pair of fork seals, huh?  (or do you already have them?)

Please order them and let me know when you get them in.

I know you didn't expect it this quickly, Karl, but your 1098 is done.  I stayed up to finish it tonight since Stuart and I will likely be busy with a 7.5k service on a Monster 1100 the rest of the week.  Hope that's not an inconvenience.   ;D

Ohlins forks are easier than Showas as long as you have the right tools!   [thumbsup]

On that note Karl, maybe this weekend a good spirited ride? I'll hopefully have my new suit and it would keep the knee pucks in the right place for little EXTRA fun...! [moto]

Pictures of Karl's fork rebuild at

http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/Karls%201098s%20Fork%20Rebuild%20April%202011/ (http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/Karls%201098s%20Fork%20Rebuild%20April%202011/)

just in case you ever wondered what Ohlins guts look like.   ;D

 [thumbsup] Awesome...I was curious, now I know! Few special tools and black fluid! Karl can now fly.... [moto]

Thank you Scott, the bike feels great [thumbsup]

We got a new customer from Los Alamos named John Brooks a couple of weeks ago.  John rides an '07 S4RS and he needed a 7500 mile service.  John arranged transport and dropped his bike off a week ago today.

Despite a couple of problems with excessive application of dielectric grease (that's the nonconductive grease that's used to lubricate in places where you don't want conduction.......like the insides of spark plug boots so they'll slip on easily and seal out water) I think we've got John's bike ready for pickup.

John, if you want to see a few pictures of your bike in pieces you can go to: 

http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/John%20Brooks%207500/ (http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc428/tscloninger/John%20Brooks%207500/)

for a peek.  I know I've apologized several times already for the miss, but for the record, "Sorry for the problems."   :-[  A thorough cleaning and a new set of complimentary iridium NGKs seems to have addressed the issue.....as long as the bike isn't supposed to do much more than 155 (indicated) in 4th gear, that is.  (one source says top speed is a radar indicated 153).

Hey, Larry!  Your Honda now has an electronic ignition system on it.  Time for a  [drink]!!!

Can't wait to ride it. Hop it maks a differene. I will be able to get it tuesday night if that is ok with you

Tuesday works.  I even have the key.   ;D

I didn't ride it before I installed the ignition system, but I think the CL was stronger.  It might have been geared shorter, though.  I didn't check the gearing on either bike.

...or that the CL has straight pipes  [evil]
 c u tomoro

I need some new tires on the bike, was told to get a hold of Scott or Stu, guess this is good a place as any to try and do that.  :P

Bring it over whenever you like.  If you don't have my phone number you can get it on the Desert Desmo facebook page.  If you want quick turnaround (overnight or quicker) you'll need to let me know what brand, type, and sizes you'd like so I'll be sure they're immediately available.  If they're not in town it takes a couple of days to get 'em.

I heartily endorse Michelin Pilot Power single compound tires.....'cause they're sticky and relatively cheap....but if your riding style (I ride pretty slow) or taste in tires (I like cheap) differs from mine we can get whatever you like.  For instance, we just put Michelin Power Pures on DucMouse's ride and she's very happy...but they're half again the price of Pilot Powers!  I know we can easily lay hands on Pirelli, Dunlop, Bridgestone, and Metzeler rubber, too.  Your call.

if you ride slow then someone better hand me my walker   [roll]


also thx again for the service i am very happy and you guys are awesome  [beer] [thumbsup]

So the guy I bought the bike from actually had a pilot road on the back and a pilot power in the front. I've noticed that the back likes to kick out, especially powering out of corners... not sure exactly what I need though, just something stickier than that pilot road I guess. Sizes are 170/60 and 120/70. I do need quick turnaround since I use the bike for commuting, so I'll do some research on the tires I want. Probably will default to pilot powers though if they're readily available.

 [bow_down] Slow ??? I just ordered a set of training wheels...so we can keep up with you now.

BTW, my M. Power 1s need to be changed in the next revision to whatever is on Craig's bike...Michellin Power 1! [roll] He is setting a bad example and I can't keep up with the squids on track days! Sliding is an under statement, its like ice skating for Olympics qualifying! Works awesome on the street though at whatever pace my guts allow! [thumbsup]

Pilot Roads can squirm a bit under a heavy throttle hand, but they last FOREVER compared to other Pilot variants.  If you can stomach the movement they're a better choice for a commuter.  If you don't like the rear moving around (it doesn't bother me unless it's unpredictable or very pronounced....but I don't know how you ride) you might try Pilot Power, as they're considerably stickier than Pilot Road....though they'll last about half as long.  I typically get 2500 to 3000 miles out of a set.

Do your research and gimme a holler.  The Powers are readily available in those sizes.  Roads I'd have to order.  Ditto Power Pure.  JJ is talking about DOT race rubber in his post, so you can fairly disregard that Power One comment.   ;)

Would I be able to get more life out of dual compound tires? I think there's dual compound pilot power tires that aren't terribly more expensive than regular pilot powers. I do tend to ride fairly throttle heavy and the back getting squirrly, especially on city roads can be pretty unpredictable for me.

In my experience, the 2CT tires are the same in the middle as the single compound versions but have softer sides, so do give better bite at greater lean angles.  Michelin only put the softer compound on the extreme edges (the outer 10 % on the front, 11% on the rear) of Pilot Powers, anyway, so you have to tilt pretty hard to take full advantage of the softer rubber on the edges of the tire.  Michelin make the rear from compound "A", and the front from softer compound "B".  They then apply compound "B" to the shoulders of the rear tire, and introduce even more soft compound "C" for the shoulders of the front tire.

Power Pure uses the softer compounds on the outer 25% of the front and 40% of the rear, so it is easier to take advantage of the "better" rubber.  I've found that I spend a significant proportion of my riding time in the soft portion of these tires....so much so that they wore out in under 2000 miles for me....but I load 'em a bit more than most folks.   ;D   OH.....and Power Pures are also about 2 pounds per tire lighter than comparable offerings, so they actually reduce unsprung weight and make your bike handle a little better.

I guess what I'm saying is that if you can use the edges of your tires its probably worth buying 2CT tires at least once to see what they're about.  However, I suspect that the majority of folks who have them never take advantage of their primary intended benefit, which is greater traction at extreme lean angles.  I know I have to work to slide (not just move a little, but properly slide) single compound tires on my 80hp bikes, so take that for what it's worth.

Think for yourself.  Question authority!   [evil]

Oh, I heard from others that the 2ct tires were a bit harder in the middle giving them better life span. I guess maybe the people I heard that from were wrong though.  :P

As far as using the outer edge, I find I push myself a little harder each time I go out, finally was able to use all the tread on my rear tire just this last weekend, and I expect I'll be doing that more now, so who knows, maybe I'll try them out some time. I'll just go with the pilot powers for now though, I think from what you said that should eliminate my sliding problem that I'm getting with the pilot roads, and that's all I'm looking for. Should I schedule a time to make sure I can get a quicker turn around or what?

Hi we haven't ridden, but we will be soon! It is the right choice and you will be happy. There is no need to go to a double compound 2CT or others!)- You can either stay single (soft compound and they built a good grip on hard riding) or go race slicks for track. I have pushed the Pilot powers to their death limits and they still hold good on the mountains, except at track with the expert group. I do lean a bit and my suspension is set about right. You may want Scott & team to check your suspension setting. If you are riding with our group on the mountains, that will come in as a blessing! Make sure the tire pressures are not too high or too low. Lower them by a pound for each weekend till you are comfortable. I'm not the best out here, but I have seen great improvement with just suspensions and tire pressure. I used to run Pirelli's- the expensive ones always on my 999s and 1098s till I could not bear $500 changes every 4 months! The switch to Michelin Pilot Power single compound was a very satisfactory experience. Thought I would share few cents...! [thumbsup]

How about you drag the old girl over Saturday and we run over to get them mounted and balanced together?  That way you can ride it in and ride it right back out.  We can, as JJ suggested above, do some preliminary suspension set-up, too, if you like.  If that's cool just let me know and I'll make double sure that there are tires waiting for you.   ;)

Who knows, maybe I'll buy a tire machine soon?!?

Yeah, that sounds great, what time and where?

Call me and I'll give you directions.  five oh five 238-zero three 23.  I'm about as far north and west as you can go and still be inside the city of Albuquerque, so I'm pretty close to you.

I'll be back from spin class around 10:00, so say 10:30?

DJD......I just got word that we MIGHT have a 170/60 tomorrow (for use Saturday) and we might not.  Any objections to a 180/55 if the 170/60 doesn't come in?  They are interchangeable for all intents and purposes....or at least I can't tell the difference.....as long as there isn't a swingarm interference issue (and there isn't on Monsters).  The 180/55 is obviously 10mm wider, and, mathematically, it drops the rear of the bike 3mm (less than 1/8") compared to the 170/60.

Just a "heads up."  Hopefully it won't be an issue, but just in case I didn't want you to be surprised.

For reference, I run 180/55 rears on both of my bikes that originally came with 170/60 rubber ('cause it's easier to find in sticky buns).

I was noticing that 170/60 is a bit more rare than other sizes. Yeah, that's fine with me. Any performance difference between the two or should I not notice it?

FWIW, the wider tire will make your ass look smaller [laugh] ;D

Like I need that.  [roll]

I can't tell the difference, but I've heard a few folks claim it slowed their steering a little.....but I figure that's probably just psychosemantic.

It may not matter, as I figure the 170 will probably get here.  This was a "just in case" kinda thing.

Also, my wife, Ashley, informed me that our gym has cancelled all classes for the holiday weekend, so there will be no spin class Saturday.  That means that if you want to start earlier we can do so.  I'm usually up at the ass-crack of dawn, so whenever you want to show up is fine by me.  It won't help to be here before 9:00 or 9:30 as MotoAuthority (where we're going for mounting and balancing) doesn't open until 10:00.

Give me a shout or just post something when you know what time you prefer.

10:30 is fine still.

See you at 10:30.  The 170/60 did come in on UPS, so we're good to go.

So you heard the squeeling, any ideas what it is?

I'm thinking we ought to take a look at those idler pulleys.

Did you get a tire machine yet? If not, who of [PJ's, Moto-Authority, other] do you recommend to mount/balance tires?

I have been thoroughly reading the thread about Pilot Powers and I am still on the fence between the Pirelli Diablos and Michelin Pilot Powers, since I don't like the Pilot Roads. I think my general lack of velocity does not warrant the extra cost and shorter life of the Pilot Powers.

Thanks.

Nope....no tire machine yet.  I'm  trying to decide if it'll fit in the garage and still leave room for anything else.

I'd call both (and maybe a couple of others) and see where you get the best price.  In my experience it'll be MotoAuthority, and they both do a good job for their money.

Not happy with Pilot Roads, huh?  What's the issue?  Lack of grip?  Lack of mileage?  Just not comfortable?  Do tell!

I've used a few sets of Pirellis and more than a few sets of Pilots, but I tend to gravitate toward the stickier rubber so that's what I know about.  I'm sure that if you look around you can find reviews of more mileage oriented tires.  For my money, I'll take the Michelins....not because they're better (I can barely tell the difference) but because they generally cost a little less.  Call me a cheapskate.   ;D

Scott got an exhaust for the CB. now it is running lean. Any time to do some jetting? do i need to find a kit? Let me know and I have your fairing for you

Jetting is a funny animal and can consume huge amounts of time.  I can start on it sometime next week, if you like.  If you can find a kit that would be a heck of a start.

How lean is it running?

does not rev out past 6 and sputters from 6-8500

What carbs does that donkey use?

Keihin CVs. 

Sounds like it might need bigger mains, Larry.  See if you can find a spare set of carbs while you're at it.  One of yours (I think the right one) is pretty buggered up in its float bowl.  Looks like it was stored with acid in it for a while.   :(

If I find a pair of performance ones like Mikuni is that MORE problematic or should I look for the same carbs

It's not a problem if you find a "starting point" for jetting from a reputable source.  It's nice to at least have a baseline from which to begin.  Starting from scratch can take a very long time and can be very expensive just in jets.....not to mention labor time.

check these out

http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-580/MIKUNI-VM30-CARBURETOR-KIT/Detail (http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-580/MIKUNI-VM30-CARBURETOR-KIT/Detail)

I love VMs.  I have one on the Aermacchi!  If they're jetted close I can make it work.

great! i may very well buy these

 ??? Don't I need one like this too Scott? I had to work from home today to visit a local client...Perhaps I'll come by and get d ol beater sorted...! :-\

I bought them. Should have them in a week. can't wait to put them on

Anyways, I think my bike is need of a service, and was wondering if you could take care of it for me, maybe also check the bike over as well make sure I didn't miss something that broke from dropping it. Oh, and maybe check those idler pullies. It's not taking quite as long now to get them to squeal a bit.

Oh no, rode the bike all day today with no problems, got back home today no problems, went out for a sandwich this evening and I noticed lack of power. Lack of power developed into it bogging down at around 2-5k RPM and backfiring. That developed into even more power loss and a fuel smell around the bike. There's also a little smoke from the pipes if it backfires when it's bogging down, the smoke kinda smells a bit like jet fuel. I'm guessing it's related to me dropping the bike this morning, I don't know what could have gotten that screwed up though. Or what could have happened that it took several hours of riding to show up after the drop.

Wow C, that's a tough one to diagnose over the intarwebz...

We'll have time to look at it this wknd though...

Call me @ 359-1500 an we'll discuss.
Stuart

I'm thinking it might actually be a timing belt issue, but what do I know.  :P When it's light out tomorrow I'll take a look at the bike and make sure it isn't something stupid like a fouled spark plug or something.

And it's starting to do it again. I may replace the line myself. It'll take me a bit but I think I can figure it out, I have a diagram  :P. Need 30R10 5/16"? Also, I'ma be in RR tonight with my truck, will you be home Scott so I can drop off a check? Also #2: When do you think you'll have some free time to do a service on mio monster?  ;D

5/16" fuel hose...yes.  Make sure it's submersible.  (That's why it costs so darned much.  $26 at NAPA, Karl found it for less through CarQuest where he works)

I can service your bike anytime after this weekend.  If you want to wait I'll replace the fuel line for no additional labor while I have the tank off.  It won't take me 15 minutes.  I'd prefer to replace the clamps, too, while I'm in there if that's OK with you.  FI hose clamps are pricier than standard ones, but they seal well.  I get nervous reusing those crimp type clamps.

Karl was saying that it was like18-20 bucks for the same hose through his work.

Anyway, I was gonna get new clamps while I was at it anyway. From what I'm seeing this time around, the bike didn't drastically go down the drain as far as performance is concerned. Maybe it's a bad clamp, not getting an entirely good seal. I'd think the hose might pop off then though. Either way, I noticed the engine kinda popping and missing occasionally at low RPMs, like how it started before, but it hasn't progressed at all to the type of lag in power that I was experiencing the first time around. The problem right now seems very constant.

I'll keep you updated, and I'm thinking maybe dropping the bike off Friday afternoon next week? Or if I could drop it off earlier in the week that could work too.

Friday is fine...or if you want to ride it this weekend Sunday evening or Monday are OK, too.

Same hose split, this time instead of at the nipple of the pump outlet, it split at the fuel filter nipple. Just cut it, got rid of the clamp, and put on a new worm gear clamp. Hopefully the hose will last long enough for me to ride it over. I'm thinking Monday evening (6pm ish) may be a good time for me to bring it over.

Hey Stu or Scott,

I have a question for the maybe either of you when you have time.

I have always had false neutrals between every gear since I got my '03 620.  I know it is a common problem with a fair amount of Ducs, but they seem to be getting "wider".  Especially the one from 4th to 5th.  I have always wanted to go to the 6 speed any way, I am getting quickly to my 12k service and am wondering two things.

Can I adjust/shim the tranny I have to get the neutrals "smaller"?

Do you know what years 6 speed transmissions our fit my machine?

No huge rush, just always been a topic of curiosity for me, and with the gaps seeming easier to hit as the miles build I am hoping I am not going to "need" a new transmission too soon.

I have never done any transmission work before so know next to nothing about them.  I learn fast however, and am not afraid to tear anything apart.

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

Hey Scott,

There's a spring under the alternator cover which does get weak over time which could cause the issue you're having w/false neutrals.  The spring costs $5, but it's 1.2 hours to R&R.  While 'in there' we can set your shift mechanism to it's factory setting (if it's moved as they sometimes do) which will also help w/shifting...

As far as the 6-speed goes, it would be cheaper to buy a later model 620 engine (I have 1 BTW) which already has the 6-speed trans and the APTC slipper-clutch in it.

PM me and we can discuss motor swaps and services... [thumbsup]

Thank you for the chain and sprocket service with lifetime warranty to boot [thumbsup]

Use them well, Karl.  I'm glad we could help you out!

For those not "in the know", Desert Desmo LLC is now an authorized Supersprox dealer.  If we supply and install a kit consisting of a Supersprox front sprocket, Supersprox rear sprocket, and quality RK or Isis chain, we can offer them with a LIFETIME warranty!  (nontransferable, of course, but still.......)  The next chain and sprockets you buy could literally be your last.  Get 'em while they're hot!!!

I would like to thank you guys for doing the swing arm for me

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/f8c70e46.jpg)

(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/ducmouse/8ed21e06.jpg)

Splendid! When we fly??? [Dolph]

Hey, just changed my oil and a found some small magnetic shavings on my plug. Very small, mostly dust sized. I didn't find any thing bigger in my filter and I didn't check the prefilter. From what I read this is just normal transmission wear?

Generally, a small to moderate amount of metallic 'dust' is normal.  When you get an excessive amount, or larger bits...  Then you have issues.

I wouldn't be concerned unless we're talking about a dust-ball larger than a dime.

Nah, nowhere near that much.

You're good to go, then.  Don't put 'em back in there, though.   ;)

how much is the general time and cost of the valve check/adjustment? another 200 miles and ill be needing to get it done.

Depends on the bike & motor.  Feel free to PM me here & we can discuss.

Stuart

How many miles on your 848 Beau?  I should remember, but I don't.

Anyway, it depends on whether you want a full service or just the valve check/adjustment.

The full service is 6 hours for minor service (7500 mi) and 8 hours for major (15000 mi) on your four valver.  We'll shave 30 minutes if you'll remove the side fairings for the minor and ALL the fairings (including the headlight fairing) for the major.  Labor is $76 per hour (including shop supplies) and parts are extra, though we pass along whatever discount we can, and we get a good deal on lots of things.

For either service you should expect the cost of oil, filter, and drain plug gasket at a minimum.  If it's a major service, or it's been more than two years since they were replaced,  you should expect to replace the timing belts.  We can get a set of those at such a good price that I'm not legally allowed to publish it on this or any forum.....but suffice it to say we get excellent pricing from California Cycleworks on their ExactFit belts.  For a major you'll also need new coolant and a prescreen gasket, and spark plugs are a good idea.  We check and change several other things, but their cost is included in the price of the service.

If you JUST want the valves checked, and wish to do the rest for yourself, we'll check the valves for 4 hours labor if you remove the fairings.  That four hours includes the cost of installing new belts (but not the cost of the belts themselves) if you want them changed, as we have to remove them to check the valves, anyway.

There are several other things we can do in addition to the standard service at your request.  The most common is a fork oil change that requires 1 hour additional labor if you want that done.

Holler when you're ready!

its a 4 valver. im currently at 7300 miles.

ill be doing the belt/valves/and just a general check over on the bike (chain etc.)

i may concider the fork oil as well.

Oil was just changed 400 miles ago along with the clutch.

If you'll pull the fairings, and we deduct a half hour for the oil change, that leaves 5 hours for a 7500 mile service on your 848....plus the cost of a set of belts.  I'll go ahead and order a set if you like, so we can turn it around quickly.  Just holler when you're ready and we'll knock it out.

Bear in mind that the bike has to be cold when we adjust the valves, so if you ride it over we'll have to let it sit overnight before we can check valve clearances.

It's also better if you bring it in just after your roll over 7500 miles, not before.  The maintenance message will pop up at 7500 miles and has to be reset after it pops up.  It can't be reset proactively.   ;)

Fork oil should be OK with only 7500 miles on the bike.  I'd wait until 15k.

Thanks for details Scott...keeps us on the right perspective with maintenance, requirements and costs. I will be next in line for 15k on the beast...guess about 400 more to pop the maintenance menu. You may have done few things relevant to major service on mine already...thanks to frequent visits and bike abuse. But, will start saving up... [thumbsup]

There's good news, and there's better news.  I'll start with the good.

Desert Desmo has set up an account with Galfer, so if you need brake rotors, hoses, pads, or other Galfer products in the future we'll be able to get you good pricing and delivery on anything in their catalog!

Now the better......we have to place an initial order and we want to make it a doosie, so we're offering all of our friends(that's you) a ONE TIME ONLY offer so good that we can't tell you what it is because it would violate our marketing agreement.  If you're interested in anything in Galfer's catalog, look up the part number and give us a shout for a quote that'll blow your socks off!  Don't forget to ask about installation for your new purchase, too.

You can see what Galfer have to offer at http://www.galferusa.com/ (http://www.galferusa.com/)

2 front rotor and rear one 2.  Gold if possible ..  Maybe some cool new lines.  Colored..

Plus I owe Stew one set of pads..  Plus a new set of pads for the bike front and rear..

Would it be a up-grade to put new lines on my bike?

M

What year is your 800, Matt?  Does it have stainless braided lines or rubber ones?

Just an FYI:  I'm doing a LOT of spring cleaning...  Misc. Duc parts galore!

Here's a link to my ad in the 'Parts For Sale' board:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56065.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56065.0)

(which also links to my eBay page of items for sale...)

Prices will be much reduced for cash and carry deals (I'd rather not line the pockets of Ebay or Paypal anymore than I already am)

it's an 05, but could't tell you if its braided or rubber....

05  and yes it has ss already

But I have s4r rotors and calipers on there now and front forks off of a st4

S4R, S2R800 and ST4 all share the same bolt patterns for calipers and rotors.

(S4Rs, however, is different but you're not running those parts)

If you want *bling*, however, Galfer does make S.S. lines in different colors!

Hey, so my clutch is rattling more than usual. So I took it apart to see if  I could find anything unusual. As far as other symptoms, there aren't really any, no slippage, etc.

I found this ring around the hub...
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/staltos/IMG_0114.jpg)
Exactly where this bushing is in the clutch pack...
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/staltos/IMG_0115.jpg)

I have no idea if this is normal. The bushing does sit around the hub pretty tight, and the friction plate that goes around it is fairly loose, so I don't know if it's just normal wear from movement between those two parts. It seems like it could be indicative of something bad to me. Or maybe I'm being paranoid, and finally running the bike hard this weekend meant that some clearance finally built up between the friction plate tangs and the basket, making it noisier than I used to.  ???

The spacer definitely caused the odd wear on the hub, but it's not what's causing the noise.

The noise is caused by play between the tabs on the OD of the friction plates beating against the faces of the tangs on the clutch basket as the cush behind the basket loads and unloads with engine power pulses.  It's easy to think that the clutch only drives one way, but that's not really the case.  It actually operates in a cyclical series of loadings and unloadings as the engine fires.  At low engine speeds (for instance....at idle) this is exacerbated because the pulses are spaced far enough apart for the rubber in the cushes to rebound in the direction opposite normal travel and have the plates beat against the opposite tang on the hub.  I hope I said that the same way I thought it.   ;)

The teeth on the ID of the steel plates fits much tighter against the hub, so they don't generally make much noise.

Yeah, I guess now that I think about it, it sounds pretty similar to how the bike sounded before I put in the new basket and clutch pack. I guess the new pack and basket have been so quiet that I just wasn't used to it when some wear finally started to show up. HOWEVER, it does seem slightly quieter since I took it apart and put it back together, nothing felt loose as I was taking it apart, and it shouldn't have been since I torqued everything to the correct settings and used locktite. *Shrug*

Don't loctite the six spring bolts.  It's not necessary, and they should be easy to disassemble so they can be pulled at each service to inspect the clutch plates and blow out the clutch assembly.

I didn't.  :P

A consultation request for the Desmo Deserters:

My '01 M900 here is seeping fuel from near the hinge plate on the bottom rear of the tank. Reading a thread in Tech, I believe that, sometime in my confused past, I committed the sin of lifting the tank up when it was fully fueled.

Here's my question: I have not spoken with my local dealer/mechanic yet, but I will probably go ahead and remove the tank. What I wondering is if I am better off shipping it to DucPainter or trying to get it fixed locally. I know this is a weird one to answer at long distance, but Nate has done some painting for me in the past & I find him very professional.

Just wondering...

If it were me, I wouldn't bother with the dealership...  Just ship it to Nate.

Scott or Stu, you got a spare fuel pump laying around that will work in my S2R?  I think mine is shot.

According to my research, it's rarely the pump, but rather the fuel-tight connection of the wires going through the base of the pump plate itself.

We don't have one, but there's a slight chance yours could be fixed!

Slight, as in don't get hopes up too high...  eBay usually has pumps around $100-$150 but they'll fail too eventually.

Let us know what you want to do...

Brand new pump from California Cycleworks (not Ducati OE) is $149....if you really need a pump.

Have you checked the fuel pump relays?  Is the pump running, but not making pressure?  Have you checked for ruptured fuel lines inside the tank?  (That's a common cause of "the pump is running, but nothing's happening)

*intercom* "paging Desert Desmo, white courtesy phone"

Ok, my 848 hit 15k miles, am in need of a quote for service so i know how many 7 Eleven's i need to rob. PM if needed.




jason

Major service for a four valver is 7 hours plus parts.  7x75=525.

Belts about 100
Oil about 50
Oil filter about 15
Gaskets about 2
Others as needed, like brakes, tires, steering head bearings, clutches, etc....but only if needed.

Plus 7% tax for Bernalillo county

The remainder, like brake fluid (which gets changed at a major), grease, and other consumeables we'll cover in our "shop supplies" budget.

My Duc needs some Desert Desmo Lovin!  Valves and belts!  Let me know when i can bring her in.

Just handing out major props to Desert Desmo... They've been very patient & thorough building my bike.

New DP Corse 4 spring Slipper Clutch
rebuilt my Road & Track forks with correct springs
new Ducshop 28mm offset triple
new Speedy moto clipons
new Dan Kyle flat track link & shortened rear adjuster
new 520 15/41 set up, lightened front sprocket, AFAM quick change rear
installed new Carbon Fibre tank
etc etc...

[thumbsup]  [Dolph] [beer]


 

Yeah.....but does it work?!?   [Dolph]

The bike works a LOT better than I do...  ;D

Here she is...

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8475/8079959897_fac8e5bdde.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/88474277@N07/8079959897/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/88474277@N07/8079959897/#) by scott.metcalfe (http://www.flickr.com/people/88474277@N07/), on Flickr

(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o593/Scott_Metcalfe/1098/file-1.jpg)

Looks very sharp Scott! [thumbsup]

Scott- One of my shocks (left) is evidently leaking, the little excursion off-road last time was the culprit, but considering I'm at 18k+ miles, it is about time they failed?! I'm even surprised it lasted this long- I must be riding easy because you mentioned my valves were up to spec on the major service, so the only thing I did screw up was my brakes and chain!  "Too much brake" :P :P

Any way, I took the spotless clean storage bike out yesterday and yes, I did forget to ride! Damn! It was fun hearing the roar without ear plugs, was no fun with every kid in college showing me thumbs up... :-\ I miss riding with you all and hate being the odd one out!  :'( The forks leaked again, confirmed.

I may come to Ouray with my bike, but it will be too late for a fork service! Or is it OK to leak and just wipe...It showed up on my rear rim last time! Please advise on who I should consult for the service. There is no dealer in near vicinity and I cant trust an unknown with my forks, it is what keeps me alive! Home shop or dealer...where around East? Any advise on material needs I need to watch- oil, seals, etc.? Thanks!

Duc Pond in VA has crazy good reviews online...Heard of them? 132 miles, 2 1/2 hrs from me.

The folks are Duc Pond are good at what they do.  You can certainly trust them.  I know several of the folks further south (specifically Meyers in Asheville, NC, Pandora in Chattanooga, TN, and NPR near Athens, GA), but not many of the guys in VA and the DC area.  

As to forks, there's no magic in there that a guy with your mechanical background can't tackle.  The hard part is tools.  You'll need a method by which to lift the front end so you can remove the forks (either a stand that lifts from the triple clamps or eye bolts in a ceiling joist to lift the frame...that's what I do for 1098s since my front stand requires a hole in the lower triple which is missing on the 1098), a few basic fork tools like a fork cap wrench, spring clip, spring compressor (manual is fine), 14 and 17mm wrenches, and fork seal drivers.  You'll also want to have a drain pan, a set of fork seals and dust covers (might as well do the dust covers, too....they're cheap), and fork oil.  Ohlins recommend their fork oil, available from Kyle Racing, or you can use 5wt or 7.5wt oil of your choice.  Lighter oils damp a bit less, but also tend to fade less.  If I remember correctly the Ohlins oil is approximately 7wt.  One litre is enough for both legs.

Note the location of the forks in the triple clamps (not rotational position...that's not important...just the height of the forks with respect to the triple clamps) so they'll go back as you started.  Also write down the spring preload setting (the hex fitting at the top of the forks) and then back the preload all the way off.  

In preparation for removal use a wrench to loosen the top caps on each fork leg....for Ohlins this requires a special pin wrench you can get from Kyle Racing or from ebay, among several other sources.  Just break them loose a quarter of a turn or so, but no more.  Remove the wheel and front fender and begin to loosen the clamp bolts.  Support the fork leg as you loosen the last clamp bolt on each side as it may just slide out...but not usually.  Once the bolts are loose on one side slip the leg out.  You may have to twist a bit to get it started but if the bolts are loose it's generally quite easy to remove.

Once both legs are removed you want to work with one at the time so you don't mix parts.  Holding the fork vertically unscrew the top cap and slide the fork stanchion down into the slider....the cap is attached to the damping piston via a tube.  The cap retains the spring, too, so don't worry about the whole thing "flying apart" when you remove the top cap....it doesn't work like that!  Tip the whole thing upside down into a drain pan to drain the bulk of the fork fluid.

Install your spring compressor (you can do it without a tool, but it's a PITA) and compress the spring.  Slip a spring clip between the spring and the nut that locks the cap to the tube.  Hold the cap with a wrench and loosen the lock nut, then unscrew the fork cap.  Slip out the spring clip and the spring will be free...remove it too.   Tip the whole thing back over your drain pan with your hand beneath the tube where the fork cap was located.  When you invert it you're likely to get a couple of parts out of the tube (a small valve bit, a small spring, and a rod).  Note how they came out so you can put them back in the same way.  Cycle the rod several times to get as much fluid out as possible.  


IIRC you can slide the stanchion and slider apart any time after the cap is removed....so go ahead and do that to make sure you don't damage the stanchion.  Drive the dust seal out of the slider with a screw driver and the palm of your hand, or lightly with a small hammer, as not much force is required to disengage the dust seal.  Once the dust seal is out look into the cavity beneath it and locate the clip holding the fork seal in place.  Use a small pick to remove the clip.  Now you can use a small prybar or similar to remove the seal.  Don't pry directly against the slider as it's easy to damage the aluminum.  Put something in there to pry against so you don't damage anything.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.  There is a washer between the seal and the tefon coated bearing above it....make sure it goes back in.  

When you're putting it back together make sure you measure the fork oil level with the stanchion fully retracted into the slider and with no springs inside the fork.  I like racetech's tool for setting fork oil level....but that's entire a matter of preference.  Also, before measuring oil level, cycle the tube (connected to the damping piston) up and down a few times to bleed the air out of the system.  As you cycle the piston, oil will shoot forcefully out the top of the tube.  You either have to work slowly to avoid this, or get a special tool that threads onto the rod and directs oil back down the tube.....either works.

The only other thing to remember is to keep everything inside the fork as clean as possible. Dust and lint can cause problems in there, so keep that stuff to yourself.

It sounds more complex than it is.  I generally allow two hours to remove the forks, install new seals (and springs, if you like) and reinstall the forks.

Cheers,

S

Thanks, Scott! Appreciate you taking the time and providing details on Ohlin rebuild! I'm not sure if this makes it easy or scares the living hell! :-[ ??? :P I'm hoping to read it few more times, have read it twice and it still feels like "Method of Characteristics for Nozzle Design" [bang]

There are some discussions since yesterday on my presence in WV and options to re-live NM wonderland...so I shall wait till March about gets by... [coffee]

Scott- I read your fork rebuild article few more times and watched few online videos to brave myself up...not ready yet, plus tools need to be arranged. Anyway, I'm in a better state mentally with the whole process as I now know more. I want to again thank you for taking the time and helping all of us now and before  [thumbsup]...I have always enjoyed riding the machine, however, the DUC was left as a myth for you to solve...at least in post crash days... :P Over time you have helped me understand the machine and it helps with my riding as well...because I know that there is more to riding than just opening the throttle and pointing (that could be a good start with titanium B$$$  ;D).

Anyway, I was about to call Ducpond and check on their service schedules, but thought I'll check their reviews again carefully on Google. I was surprised to find this (link below) and am having afterthoughts! So, I'm gonna wait and maybe do part job myself...hell, I can simply ship the forks to you with return cash, and pull it down somehow following your instructions! But, I thought I should share this with others too on client expectations and motorcycle maintenance...especially things our life depends on and what we love so much!
http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/ducati-workbench/55060-duc-pond.html (http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/ducati-workbench/55060-duc-pond.html)

This may be an odd case, but it sure deters me. When I leave my bike at your place, I leave with absolute confidence. [bow_down]

Wow!  That would worry me, too.  I like the last response on the page, though. 

If you want to pull the forks and ship them out here for a rebuild i'll gladly run through them.  You could also send them to Racetech or Dan Kyle (Ohlins expert) if you want any heavy modifications done.  I'll turn them around in a day if you're in a hurry.  $75 labor, about $50 for seals and dust seals, and $30 for Ohlins fork oil......or half that much for Silkolene.

Thanks, bought this: http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=134 (http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=134)

My garage ceiling has an attic and I ain't trying any stunts...:) I cant afford a Pitbull right now, so this will do!

Will wait for it and try to get the forks out first. Will I need any special tools to get forks out...I noticed you mentioned quarter turn to break loose the fork cap with OHLINS fork wrench, is this necessary for the forks to be removed from triples? If so, I order them as well. Thanks again.

I think that stand will work great....but I think the price is only for the attachment above the standard lift.  Make sure if you're ordering. 

As to the fork caps, if you're shipping them here don't worry about it. It's just easier to break the cap loose when they're clamped into the bike.  I can clamp them into plastic vice jaws to loosen them here and that way you don't have to spend a fortune for a wrench you'll never use again.  They'll slide right out without loosening them.

Tools required to remove forks:  8mm hex bit to remove brake calipers.  4mm hex bit to remove fender.  5 mm hex bit (if I remember correctly) to loosen axle pinch bolts. 30mm socket or wrench to loosen the axle nut.  6mm hex bit to loosen the fork clamps (triple clamps) and the clip-on fasteners.....the clip ons might be 5mm....I just can't remember off hand.

Pay attention to how much fork is exposed above the upper clamp, and write that down.  Right down your spring preload settings and damping settings, too, as they'll likely be "messed up" when you get your forks back.  The clip-ons index to the upper triple clamp, so you can't easily put that together wrong.  Also note the routing of the wiring and throttle cables so all that goes back together the way it came apart.  Take a picture or two if you're worried about putting it back together wrong.

Remove the caliper bolts and twist the calipers (with your hands...NO TOOLS!!!) a bit so that the disk prys the brake pads apart.  This makes it much easier to remove the calipers.  Otherwise you'll scuff the wheel up trying to remove the calipers.  They barely fit between the wheel and brake disk...so take your time.  Remember to grease the caliper bolts slightly upon reassembly.

I'll post a link later where you can see all the torque values for the bike so that you can reassemble it, if you don't have them already.  You will definitely want a torque wrench to reassemble this, as it's really easy to overtighten the fork clamps and caliper bolts, and to undertighten the axle nut.

It's really not difficult.  Just take your time and make sure you put it together the way it came apart!

For one instant you scared me! ??? I had already bought the Trex stand directly from them today, but I checked... it is the full stand! It may be slightly inferior to a Pitbull, which I have for my rear stand, but they say it is only noticeable in the long run and with wet conditions...I paid 120 for the stand and 30 for Fedex shipping! They will throw in a pair of anodized red wheel spools free and it comes with the ducati soft cradle adapter for triple tree without holes. The stand can be used as fork lift or triple tree lift. I figured if I am staying remote, I may as well have a way to remove my tires for trackdays. The adapter alone for a Pitbull stand is 169 and full system is 269 plus shipping! So, this will do for occasional use. I found MotoMFG has a moving paddock side stand (lifts the whole bike) which is nice as well...but about 300 something.

I'll follow instructions and it should all be fine. First time is always a bit scary, but I need to get used to it! I'm paranoid with the DUC, I don't mind playing with the older bikes... Thanks, Scott!

Scott,
Just wondering how bad a valve service would be for my Speed Triple? I'm at about 23k and I'm sure it could use a service.
Thanks

Good Morning Gents,
Bike 2001 900 SS. I need belts and have been looking around. I am not sure if I order them from you or order some from CA Cycle works. I will do the work myself. I just am not sure what belts to get and I like useing the local Indy if it makes sense. I do that with my harley (sorry) but New Life Builders is the best for them. Let me know my options. I am also doing the front forks like JJ but those will be pretty easy as soon as I get settled in at Pojoaque.
handensco
david

Hi David,

Either we can order you some 900 belts from CA-Cycleworks, or you can order directly (which will save time for shipment).  Part number is TB900.

All the best and let us know if you need assistance or have questions,
--Stuart

I'll chat with Stuart and see what we want to do, Craig.  Wait one.

Thanks Scott. I wanted to ask you first. If you can't I'll be taking it to Phoenix sometime this summer/fall. I won't give my money to PJ's.

crat996: Sorry I didn't see your post there. Scott & I discussed and will be in touch either tomorrow or Wednesday.  Hope you're doing well...  Stu

thanks guys. I will order from ca cycle then. it is missing a few nuts and bolts but I will get those also. WE are selling our house in Peralta so everything is kind of all over the place.
thanks
david

Just to follow up, Craig, we'd be honored to service your bike.  We're just trying to figure out what to charge for it.  We're looking for the service manual so we can see what parts have to be renewed, making sure we have all the required tools, and things like that. 

When will it be due?

Scott,
I've never had the valves done so I'm sure it needs a look over. I'd have to bring it by. I think the valves are starting to make some noise.

Got my new Trex front triple and fork stand and it is simply awesome! For 150bucks total, it is worth the money... [clap]

Here are few pics for fellow NMMR before the forks are removed and shipped for service to Desert Desmo in ABQ AKA Scott & Stuart:
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/Ducati%201098%20Fork%20Seal%20Service/20130401_092332_zpsd7acf5b4.jpg)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/Ducati%201098%20Fork%20Seal%20Service/20130401_110149_zps125c5512.jpg)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/Ducati%201098%20Fork%20Seal%20Service/20130401_120713_zps7edbfe4b.jpg)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/joel_jacob/Ducati%201098%20Fork%20Seal%20Service/20130401_120733_zpsc295f0f3.jpg)

Question: so just today I started getting a silver-greyish grease on my pressure plate and clutch cover and it's dripping down onto the case and getting everywhere. Did I explode a bearing or something?

There's no grease in there anywhere except inside the sealed release bearing.  Dismount the pressure plate and see if it's intact.  It's pressed into the pressure plate and the little "button" that sits atop the actuator rod from the left side of the engine (that goes between the pressure plate and the slave cylinder) is stuck inside it.

The good news is, if that's your problem they're quite inexpensive!

To dismount the pressure plate, first remove the clutch cover using a 5mm hex key.  You only need to pull four bolts to do that.  If you see six screw heads pay attention to which ones actually hold the cover...two of the long ones just go through the cover without holding it or sit beneath it (and you won't be able to see them...so you'll only see the four you need to remove).  Then using a 4mm hex key remove the screws holding the spring retainers.  You can then dismount the pressure plate.  While you're in there inspect the clutch plates and clean out any superfluous clutch dust.


To replace the bearing set the pressure plate on couple of small bits of wood or something similar so that you can drive the bearing out.  Drive the button out of the bearing, then drive the bearing out of the pressure plate.  It'll only go one way, so you can't mess it up!  You can drive these with a hammer and a brass drift, or similar.

To reinstall, the only trick is in the orientation of the pressure plate.  Look at the outside of the plate and find the spring cup with the arrow on it.  It'll usually be to the outside (radially) of the cup.  Also, look at the bosses that the spring retainer screws thread into.  One of them will have a groove machined across it.  Make sure the cup with the arrow is on the boss with the groove when you reassemble.  Put the springs in the cups.  Put the screws through the retainers and screw them in hand tight.  Reinstall the cover and you're ready to ride.

Thanks.  [thumbsup] I was planning on pulling the pressure plate this weekend. Fortunately I don't think much grease got on the friction material, since the clutch wasn't slipping.

Justa wierd odd thought
could he have a seal leak behind the clutch hub and the oil is mixing with clutch dust
either that or the clutch rod oring?

Also possible, but that bearing is the usual culprit (IME).

I have a question for the Desert Desmonians

I need to have my fuel tank welded on the bottom: It's seeping fuel where the flange theat mounts to the frame is tacked to the tank.

I assume the proper thing to do is remove the fuel pump from inside the tank before I take it to the welder. It appears that removing the pump means removing the filler cap assembly first.

Am I correct on all this?

Yes on all of it.  You'll need a 2mm allen wrench to remove the fuel filler cap base plate.  That will allow you to access the innards of the tank.  Be wary of the fuel lines that they're compaitble with being INSIDE the tank and resistant to fuel on the outside of the fuel hose.  Also, the 2x vent hoses will need to be replaced.  No questions.  If they aren't and they break (they do), they fall into the fuel and create a siphon effect which will relieve your gas tank of ~ 1/2 of it's contents.  (ask me how I know...)

Thank you, Mr. Duck. I now have another purpose in life.

Scott and Stu,

My wife's 2009 Kawi Ninja 500r dies when she's riding.  She tells me it always dies on her way home on Paseo at the same location.  She thinks it haunted lol.  I think the carbs need a good cleaning.  I stabil the bike during the winter months and I've tried running a can of seafoam with no luck.  I have no idea how to work on a carb bike but I'd like to learn. What would it cost for you guys to take a look at it?  I was maybe thing I could pull the carbs off and take them in to have cleaned.  LMK.

Thanks,
Nick

I can usually get through a set of carbs in around two hours ($150) if they don't need any parts.  You'll need to adjust throttle balance once they're back on the bike.  Can you do that?

I have no idea how to do that.  I'm a complete noob when it comes to carbs.  I'll do some research on the ex500 forums.  I feel confident taking it apart and putting back together.  Tuning and adjusting I'll like to learn.

Did some more research and it turns out to be vapor lock.  Should be a cheap and easy fix.

Yep....just addressed the same issue on Nic's Monster.  Yearwood keeps reflective fuel line sleeve if you need some.

Scott,
Thanks for the new front shoe my beast chewed up after only 1,800 miles  :)
...and showing me how to bleed my clutch, what a difference it made  [thumbsup]

on the Panigale???? now i'm worried  :(

Happy to help, Karl.  For what it's worth, you got more miles on your first than I did....but not by much!

Scott and Stu.

I need a new clutch for my 620 monster.  Any recommendations?

I have looked around and there don't seem to be a ton of options.

Thanks for any advice.

Clutch plates or a whole new assembly?  Barnett make plates, but they're fairly expensive and don't have a significant advantage over OE as far as I can tell.  Assemblies?  Your correct.  No options that I'm aware of.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the info!

Scott

Karl,

Your front tire should be here Thursday or Friday....probably Thursday.

Just FYI

Thanks Scott,
Just got back from Raleigh.
When do you have time to install it
and fine tune suspension set up?

Thought I wear it down some more this weekend but did not
get anyway near to what you did to your rear.
See you this Saturday at 9  [thumbsup]

Scott,
Thanks for the new front shoe and for setting
the sag on the R  [thumbsup]
What a difference  [clap]

Glad to help, Karl.  Ride in good health!

Scott/Stu

Scott I talked to you about my clutch the other day.  I have replaced a few bit in the DP slipper clutch at this point.

The slipper spider spring had exploded causing my horrible noise on take off.

The clutch plates were fried, so I replaced those as well.

I am trying to find the recommended stack height for the DP slipper I have and I can find it anywhere.

The new plates are Barnett.  Everything seems to be working fine right now.  Engages and disengages.  Has neutral.

I don't know if I should worry or not as everything seems to be working fine just popping in new plates.

If you have any recommendations, let me know.  Otherwise I will see you on the road.

Thanks.

Scott

Sounds like you have it handled.  If it works don't worry about it.  The stack height is a target, but it's meaningless if the clutch doesn't work.    ;)

Thanks again Scott!  ;D

Scott

Ok, I have a 93 Superlight. I just got done changing the belts, plugs, oil and filters. I put new tires on it and I went to start it but no fuel. I have power to the tank and the fuse is good. Maybe the relay where is it. there is some sort of relay on the right side of the bike but that looks more like a starter relay. The pump? I am not sure which is bad. If I knew which the relay was for sure I know how to jump it from another forum by jumping 87 to 30.
thanks in advance for the help. The relay on the right side is not your typical square one and is round with 3 connections.
David
handensco

Hey Scott and Stu,

I am about to hit 600 mi. on the Scrambler. What are your suggestions beyond oil/filter/chain service/checking stuff? Do you guys have a favorite oil/filter combination for the 803? Are you interested in working on the Scrambler? Do you recommend PJ's while in warranty?

Thanks.

The first service is an oil change and they check over things like bolts still being tight and such.  If you ever needed an official dealership to do a warranty claim, they DO look at things like whether or not you've been in for any services or not.  So, maybe the first service (or two) should be done there to establish a service history.  But, outside of that:

A full synthetic motor oil is fine and I think that uses the 15w50 or 20w50 grade.  Chain service is a 2 minute affair with a can of lube.  As far as a brand of oil goes, the OE manual usually lists a manufacturer which would have to be at least considered.

YES!  We are interested in working on the Scrambled-Eggs!

starting on the M696 onwards, the oil which is filled in the factory is 15W50 . . . 10W40 is still approved, specially for the "older" bikes . . .

Scott or Stu,

There is a 748R listed on Craig's List.  Says it had service with you guys.  I was wondering the story on it. Looks like the plastics have been replaced.  Just curious.

Thanks.

Scott

Not too many of those around, Scott.  They're rare like chicken teeth.  Larry Zambello owned one for a while so you might ask him about it...it might be the same one as they're really uncommon.

I have notes of working on one (a yellow one) for Moto Authority that had a problem with an electrical connector (the fuel pump wouldn't run but it was because someone had "sealed" an electrical connector with grease and the grease had worked its way between the pins and sockets so no power got where it was supposed to go), and later installing a few miscellaneous parts (alarm, dash cover, swing arm cover, high-beam headlight repair via replacement of a Weatherpack connector) but not a complete service.

My recollection is that the bike is in excellent condition.  What's he asking?

My 748r went to Oklahoma and only had 2k miles on it. I dont believe I ever had it serviced under my brief tenure. Great bike

Here I go. The bike is an 01 900 ssie. It has sat for the better part of 5 years. this year I changed the belts, oil, plugs and rebuilt the front end. I installed a shorai battery. I went to start it yesterday. When I turn the key the gauges do not sweep and the pump does not come on. I hear a faint click like a fuze is popping. All the fuzes are good. The headlight, tail light and the signals come on. The very faint click appears to be coming from the area of the ECU. Help!!!  I live up in SF so getting the bike anyplace is not easy. I really like to work on them myself.
Thanks
David

David,

On an '01 900SSi.e., the gauge needles won't sweep.  It's powered by the 1.5ECU and a non-immobilizer gauge set.  The 5.9ECU w/immobilizer does the needle sweep.

Anywho.  The right hand handle bar switch (OFF / ON / CRANK) has a 4-pin connector.  They occasionally corrode connections and cause people fits like what you're describing.  I'd start there.

Let us know...

Also, Shorai batteries are a handful when they're cold.  Voltage drops and they just don't crank worth a damn when temps are cool.  Warm the battery up by leaving the switch on for a few minutes before starting and check the voltage to see you have at least 12V before cranking.

I have good voltage and the engine brands over good. I think it is either the relay or the pump. I will do a test on those to try and figure out which. The bike is in the sunroom so it is 42* outside but 70 in here at 8 in the morning. I am going though the connectors and spraying contact cleaner and then putting dialectic grease in them. I hop that is how you are supposed to do it. Waiting on a cable for my battery charger. Thanks guys!

I did a bunch of test on the relay and the pump. It all was good. I took another reading on the battery and it was down. I put the battery on the special Shorai charger and let it sit overnight. The fuel pump started running. I started the bike and it runs [bow_down]. I had bought a set of high mount GPR pipes and the bike sounds amazing. Now I just have to finish putting it together and I will have 2 Super Sports running.

Need a third?  I have an 800 SS race bike with tons of spares (including a spare engine) I'll sell for $3k.  It's an AHRMA F3 #1 plate winner in 2014!

I have enough now. With 2 harley's one down to the frame and 2 SS's, the old beemer and the dirt bike I barely have enough time to ride. I am looking at an old BMW R100/GS bumblebee. Last year was over 1000 in tires.  [bang]

Thanks for taking care of my SC over the last week.

Never a problem!  (Outside of the logistics...). Hope to see you soon amigo!

Thursday night.  I'll be pee'ing in Mouse's toilet. 

Or back yard...

I have taken the Superlight out a couple of times now. It feels like it is just kind of bogging down around 70 or so. I can have the throttle wide open and that is all there is. I live in north of SF and wonder if it is jetted wrong. I am not a carb person. I can tear everything apart and put it back together but a good tuner I am not. It has FCR 41's on it. How do I get it to you and back and kind of give me an estimate on tuning price please. # 505 220 one 70 one.

shameless bomp and did PJ's go out of business? i need an oil pressure switch for the 01 SS also.

Sorry for the delay.

Tuning is "seat of the pants" for anyone without a dyno, so it's trial and error and can consume a considerable amount of time.  My SS had FCRs on it when I moved here and I remember having to lean it considerably to make it run close to right, so if you're on the "stock" jetting (as delivered by Sudco or California Cycleworks or whomever) it's probably quite rich.  The tuning procedure for these without a dyno is basically do a bit of research, set what you think it might be, then tune top end first with the main jets, idle and off-idle with the low speed circuit, then midrange with needles.  Changing jets once is a couple hours' work.  Changing them 10 times or more until it feels right is a whole other animal....though it's generally not more than three or four times to get close.

I'll chat with Stuart and see if we can come up with an estimate.

PJ's is definitely still in business.  505.323.6700  I'm pretty sure I don't have a pressure switch for an '01, but I'll look and get back to ya.

Scott

I am going to the local auto store to see if I can source a pressure switch. There is one for a opel that works. I guess the phones at PJ's were not working yesterday.  [bang] I would really like to get the Superlight performing well. It is fun to ride now that I have sort a few things out but it is not running to its potential.

We definitely don't have a switch on hand.

Well...  I do have a used one from an '07 M695 if you're interested in that...

Well the 93 Superlight is up and running. Now the big problem is the 01 SS. I had some knocking and I thought it was a hung up valve. I pulled the heads and in the vertical cylinder I pulled the cylinder. the rod was never tightened down. It only has 5000 miles on it. I think I am looking for a 1000 or an 1100 motor now unless you guys have a better thought than that. I would need new cylinders, rods, and crank at this point. Let me know your thoughts.

To swap to a 1000 or 1100 motor, you'll need the following in ADDITION to the motor:
SS1000i.e. Exhaust header
1000 intake manifolds
1000 throttle bodies unless you get a 1000 ecu which doesn't require the throttle body stepper motor (if you run a 5.9 ecu)
A 1000 or 1100 5.9ecu DP ecu (preferrably)

Cans will swap and motor mount bolts too.

Just be sure to get a Monster or a Sport-Classic engine as the Multi & Hyper motora have the narrow swingarm pivot.

FYI,
Desert Desmo is now part of Triumph Albuquerque and even better!