Hi :)
I puzzled whit a problem and I cant' find the source of it ???
When I twist the throttle very hard ( when I don't' use my brain and just want floor it ! ;D )
it's like I twist the throttle to give gas but the bike doesn't move ( well not as fast it sould) there's a considerable time betwen when I twist the throttle and the time the bike react ( 3sec. at lest )
1995 m900
possible sources of problem ?
1) clutch plate completely burn and worn off
2) I've bleeded the clutch but after 10k the liquid was already all black
3) some crap entered the carburetor ?
4) throttle cable on the brink of total failure ? ( that the one that worries me the most :-\
Not sure if your M900 has a tachometer, I think the early Monsters only had a speedo and lights. If it has a tach and a speedo, go out and floor it again, watching to see if the RPMs increase immediately in the tach and the speed lags. That may indicate a clutch slip issue.
If it is not a clutch slip issue, could you be in too high a gear? Floor it again in a lower gear and see if it responds better.
I'm not familiar with the carbs on the M900. I know on some carburetors without accelerator pumps opening the throttle suddenly leads to a bog, a flatspot in power delivery, because the extra opening on the throttle reduces the available vacuum the carb can use to evaporate the gas. Somebody with more experience on these carbs, and there are many on this board, will probably chime in soon.
Good luck!
PS - The clutch fluid turns black no matter what you do.
If the clutch was slipping, the engine would spin up, increase in RPMs but the bike would not got faster - at least not as expected. So if the engine RPM is still matched to the speed - don't worry about the clutch.
Throttle cable is not likely the cause either. But it's not hard to check it's condition. You can see the end attached to the carbs, and access the other end at the twist. If you disconnect the cable from the throttle tube and carb cam it should move in the jacket with little resistance. If it's binding, it probably just needs lubrication. Cable lube can be purchased at most bike shops. It'd be shocked to hear the cable was wearing out. Unless it's been bent or abused there's really no strain on that cable.
It's probably a carb issue - exactly what... now that's the question. I'd start by running a couple tanks through with a cleaning agent like Sea Foam or Techron through to see if that leads to improvement.
But it's quite possible that the carbs need a thorough service. They are 18 years old after all - do you know if they have ever been serviced?
The carb dosent' seam to have been services ...it surely dosent look like it ....
also I change the place of the crakcase filter (pod) now it's direcly on the crankase whit no hose this could be it ?
#1 having 18 year old carbs unserviced carbs is the most likely the cause. You probably need to have them fully serviced - replace soft parts and jets
#2 moving the breather would not cause throttle lag
update
while I was bleeding the clutch ( just in case) the bolt whit the valve (bleed valve) on the slave cylinder stayed in my hand :'( :'( :'(
where can I get one? or does somebody as one one laying around ? [bow_down]
I'm not quite sure what you mean about the bolt on the slave cylinder staying in your hand, so I don't have any advice on that problem, but back to your original problem, it sounds to me like torn vacuum diaphragm(s) in the carbs. That's a guess, though, but it's a guess that isn't too hard to check. You can access the vacuum diaphragms by taking the top of the carbs off, and then you can hold them up to the light and check if you see any light coming through. If so, you can get replacements from a Suzuki dealer for about $20-$30/ea (see cheap alternatives thread).
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on June 21, 2012, 01:37:32 PM
update
while I was bleeding the clutch ( just in case) the bolt whit the valve (bleed valve) on the slave cylinder stayed in my hand :'( :'( :'(
where can I get one? or does somebody as one one laying around ? [bow_down]
The bolt won't just go back in? Can you take a pic?
+1 on the carb diaphragms
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1620.jpg)
here's the bleeder . I've called the dealer and they told me that they don't sold it separately so I would have to get another clutch slave cylinder....but my uncle (he's a mechanic) says mechanic have usually this part in a miscellaneous box somewere I'll check the nearest auto part store I just have to find a bolt whit the same tread ...
I thoroughly check both diaphragm from the carburetor and they hare sparkling clean and not damage... I've tried the bike after and the lag is still there.
the liquid of the clutch that black out only after 10k is a sign that there someting wrong whit the clutch
andthe throttle cable is check to and it's fine
Hey 100
The dealer should sell the bolt and bleeder nipple/screw as a unit. They are seperate from the slave cylinder. Not too expensive.
Have a look at your spark plugs to see what they say. They may tell us what your carbs are doing. With the throttle lag, is it rough, lumpy, coughing or slow and smooth?
Quote from: koko64 on June 21, 2012, 06:58:02 PM
Hey 100
The dealer should sell the bolt and bleeder nipple/screw as a unit. They are seperate from the slave cylinder. Not too expensive.
Have a look at your spark plugs to see what they say. They may tell us what your carbs are doing. With the throttle lag, is it rough, lumpy, coughing or slow and smooth?
When I called the dealer they say they don't sold it separately from the slave but I'm pretty sure that a load of crap! it's the "blonde girl syndrome" [laugh] probably [roll]
and the lag is really slow and smooth.... it's like the gear just doesn't go in ( but the gear is definitely in !) that'swhy I'm looking more outward the clutch
Your father is right. We call them "banjo bolts with bleeder screws". They should be around $15 US. Make sure the thread and length match. Get some washers also. You can mail order them if they are hard to find locally. A mechanic can probably extract the broken part with an "easy off extractor" and then you only need the screw.
The black fluid is not an issue on the clutch slave. It might be on the brakes. On the clutch the fluid turns black rather quickly and does not seem to impact operation.
I'm curious. If instead of suddenly opening the throttle fully, you turn it quickly, does the bike still seem sluggish?
Quote from: battlecry on June 21, 2012, 07:18:59 PM
I'm curious. If instead of suddenly opening the throttle fully, you turn it quickly, does the bike still seem sluggish?
when I turn it quickly is does it ... it's only when I take my time that the throttle response seams to be ok ... I noticed it because it was a really "sudden "symptom that appeared 2 weeks ago
I cheeked the spark plugs and there are all black out whit carbon ( to rich ) and there some oil deposit on the tread... I changed them but I will have to look into that ..suddenly the "carburetor" theory look more plausible
Possible needle jet time on your carbs. They wear oval over time and cause the bike to run rich on part load. Only a guess, but a magnifying glass will tell you.
I think this is your screw
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S)
and your washers
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S)
if you can't find them locally.
Call Fred to make sure the part is correct
973 386 0040
Fax: 973 386 0042
Kinked vent hoses can cause a lag too.
Plugs usually foul, or are at least very sooty.
Quote from: howie on June 21, 2012, 09:19:59 PM
Possible needle jet time on your carbs. They wear oval over time and cause the bike to run rich on part load. Only a guess, but a magnifying glass will tell you.
I think this is your screw
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S)
and your washers
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LVF125/1S)
if you can't find them locally.
Call Fred to make sure the part is correct
973 386 0040
Fax: 973 386 0042
[bow_down] [thumbsup] [bow_down] for 10$ I'll take my chances
I had a problem that sounds similar on another
bike of mine (1996 Suzuki Bandit) where I would
give it throttle and it would almost stutter for a
second and then GO. It turned out to be a very dirty air filter...
Good luck
Quote from: ducpainter on June 22, 2012, 03:30:31 AM
Kinked vent hoses can cause a lag too.
Plugs usually foul, or are at least very sooty.
both
I add a hose that was completely "collapsed" so I 've cut about 1 cm just so that the air would pass :o
my plugs where full of carbon deposit whit some oil one one of them :o
I would say the symptom is far less noticeable but it's still there
1) I've read somewere that maybe it's' "valve check time ?"
2) when twist the throttle and pull back a little bit the motor seams to "catch is air" so in my point a view it's really crap in the carburetor ? [bang]
Maybe fresh spark plugs and if that doesn't improve things, a carb rebuild with new needle jets.
Quote from: koko64 on June 23, 2012, 09:53:15 AM
Maybe fresh spark plugs and if that doesn't improve things, a carb rebuild with new needle jets.
spark plugs done [thumbsup]
rebuilt the carb ... well ...when I'll have the courage :-\ I'm sure I'll be fine :) 2 year ago I knew nothing about mechanic and now I know how to use a strobe light for The timing, sync the carb whit vacuum gages, bleed clutch and brakes , change brake pads....etc... I guess the next step is a full carb rebuild ;D [thumbsup]
owning a Duacti is so much fun [laugh]
Does anyone know a good "rebuil" kit for Mukini carb?
Or I'm better of bying dynojet kit whit the K&N pod filters?
I would consider a Factory Pro or Dynojet jet kit suitable for an open air box. You use a K&N panel filter DU 0900. I would suggest an open air box (you cut the top of the lid off), rather than pod filters unless you want the hassle of making brackets to carry your ignition components.
New needle jets are a good idea, (sometimes referred to as emulsion tubes). Factory Pro make them. Like DP, I prefer the Dynojet needle and you get a bigger range of main jets, which is important for an open air box or pods.
Check out the Dynojet site for your model and open air box mod (stage 2).
I'm guessing others will know where to get gaskets, etc. Maybe SUDCO. Some local dealers may have rebuild kits.
We are here to help you when you select the jetting. :)
with carbs, ive had good success with putting in new float bowl gaskets, and using a pin to clean out the jets and reassembling
Quote from: koko64 on June 28, 2012, 06:04:58 AM
I would consider a Factory Pro or Dynojet jet kit suitable for an open air box. You use a K&N panel filter DU 0900. I would suggest an open air box (you cut the top of the lid off), rather than pod filters unless you want the hassle of making brackets to carry your ignition components.
New needle jets are a good idea, (sometimes referred to as emulsion tubes). Factory Pro make them. Like DP, I prefer the Dynojet needle and you get a bigger range of main jets, which is important for an open air box or pods.
Check out the Dynojet site for your model and open air box mod (stage 2).
I'm guessing others will know where to get gaskets, etc. Maybe SUDCO. Some local dealers may have rebuild kits.
We are here to help you when you select the jetting. :)
AFAIK, the Factory Pro jets use the same numbering as Mikuni, Dynojet uses a different system. Keep that in mind when you're ordering.
Quote from: koko64 on June 28, 2012, 06:04:58 AM
I would consider a Factory Pro or Dynojet jet kit suitable for an open air box. You use a K&N panel filter DU 0900. I would suggest an open air box (you cut the top of the lid off), rather than pod filters unless you want the hassle of making brackets to carry your ignition components.
New needle jets are a good idea, (sometimes referred to as emulsion tubes). Factory Pro make them. Like DP, I prefer the Dynojet needle and you get a bigger range of main jets, which is important for an open air box or pods.
Check out the Dynojet site for your model and open air box mod (stage 2).
I'm guessing others will know where to get gaskets, etc. Maybe SUDCO. Some local dealers may have rebuild kits.
We are here to help you when you select the jetting. :)
There is a Yamaha model that used the same carbs and IIRC they offer a gasket/rebuild kit.
Quote from: ducpainter on June 28, 2012, 12:51:54 PM
There is a Yamaha model that used the same carbs and IIRC they offer a gasket/rebuild kit.
Yamaha TDM 850. Same carb bodies.
Quote from: howie on June 28, 2012, 02:17:56 PM
Yamaha TDM 850. Same carb bodies.
I knew you'd drop by and fill in the details. ;D
Quote from: wannabfast on June 28, 2012, 07:38:01 AM
with carbs, ive had good success with putting in new float bowl gaskets, and using a pin to clean out the jets and reassembling
Where do you get the float bowl gasket ?
I must admit that I'm really scratching my head right now :-\ is there a complete rebuilt kit that I can by somewere on the web?.... I'm starting to think the easy part in all this is to rebuilt the carb... [laugh] I've look up all the references Sudco, IIRC
I found this sold by my trusty monsterparts ;D http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/DYNOJETKIT/Fuel-Air/DYNOJETKIT.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/DYNOJETKIT/Fuel-Air/DYNOJETKIT.html)
I guess stage 2 whit some K&N is that what I really need ?
Very inspirational and it does answer a lots a little questions :
:)
http://www.ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html (http://www.ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html)
Hey 100. :)
That site is very helpful with good pictures.
You can see the extra work if you do pods.
I would just have the open airbox with K&N filter. But to make life easier I would seperate the airbox from the battery box for future servicing.
I would make sure you replace the needle jets, even if that is all you did.
would this be the rigth gasket ? :)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJW82E/ref=asc_df_B003CJW82E2077477?smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2&tag=dealtmp3889-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B003CJW82E (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJW82E/ref=asc_df_B003CJW82E2077477?smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2&tag=dealtmp3889-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B003CJW82E)
Not sure.
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on June 30, 2012, 06:06:48 PM
would this be the rigth gasket ? :)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJW82E/ref=asc_df_B003CJW82E2077477?smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2&tag=dealtmp3889-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B003CJW82E (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJW82E/ref=asc_df_B003CJW82E2077477?smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2&tag=dealtmp3889-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B003CJW82E)
I don't think so.
http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_model.php?make=Yamaha&model=TDM850 (http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_model.php?make=Yamaha&model=TDM850)
8th item down the list
TDM850H/N (1991) Carb Rebuild Kit
TDM850H/N (1991) Carb Rebuild Kit. Includes:Float Bowl Gasket, O-Rings, Float Needle & Seat Assy (3GM-14107-17), Rubber Gasket (3LF-14147).
OK after seeing the thing for real it was definitely not the Right gasket
SO Ive open up the thing and cleand it whit compress air . I've inspected the ole thing and I think I've found the solution to my problem ! ;D :D
The pilot screw is all bent at the end !
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1632.jpg)
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1625.jpg)
Now i'm just tring to find the number of the part so I can find it on the net [thumbsup]
Quote from: Peggy on July 01, 2012, 01:58:39 AM
I don't think so.
http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_model.php?make=Yamaha&model=TDM850 (http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_model.php?make=Yamaha&model=TDM850)
Tanks for the link although there out of rebuilt kit but I'll check latter [beer] [thumbsup]
If you can get the parts then why not overhaul your carbs.
You may get away with the existing gaskets if they dont leak. You may get away with carefully straightening your idle mixture screw needles, but if your bike has done 10,000 kms on the stock needle jets, you will most likely need to change them.
Quote from: koko64 on July 01, 2012, 05:26:38 PM
but if your bike has done 10,000 kms on the stock needle jets, you will most likely need to change them.
the bike as 48 000km and I drove at lest 10 000 km whit it ......so I guess it time to shop at monsterparts [thumbsup] dynojet kit just ordered ! :D I'll post a photo of the needle jets tomorrow [thumbsup]
Have you checked the carb diaphragms? I had lag on opening the throttle, and I had cracked carb diaphragms. Inspect those if they are cracked, I found a replacement from a Suzuki for $30 or so per diaphgram. Beats the $100+ per slide/diaphragm Ducati wants.
JM
Diaphragm where inspected [thumbsup] and there OK
Today, I've adjusted the hight of the floats to 14mm because one was at 17mm ans the other one at 14 mm. the motor is more responsive now but after inspecting the needles jets I found that the where use to the point there was some discoloration on them :
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1647.jpg)
Dynojet kit is ordered ;D
appart from that the exhaust is now 'popping' like crazy ! :-\ maybe the pilot screw's "to rich or to lean " perhaps ?
Ca-cycleworks has a tool that has several different size wires for cleaning jets. I found it useful when cleaning mine.
For what it is worth, if you find yourself dumping cash into cleaning your stock carbs, the FCRs are worth the cash.
if its popping, you are probably too rich, turn the pilot screws in 1/4 turn
Needle jet (emulsion tube):
http://www.factorypro.com/products/Mikuni_needle_jet_buy.html (http://www.factorypro.com/products/Mikuni_needle_jet_buy.html)
They tend to wear oval
Dynojet kits don't come with them. Your dealer might stock them.
Quote from: howie on July 02, 2012, 01:37:38 PM
Needle jet (emulsion tube):
http://www.factorypro.com/products/Mikuni_needle_jet_buy.html (http://www.factorypro.com/products/Mikuni_needle_jet_buy.html)
They tend to wear oval
Dynojet kits don't come with them. Your dealer might stock them.
+1 . Thanks Howie.
Sorry 100. Probably my Australian "English" causing the confusion ;D
From the picture the needle jet is the tube the needle goes into.
The needle jet or emulsion tube will wear in a way that makes the bike run too rich and foul plugs. It can cause rough, lumpy low speed running and will effect fuel consumption.
Good work on setting the float level. [thumbsup]
The Dynojet kit will improve performance. You planning to run an open airbox with K&N filter or keep the airbox stock?
Quote from: wannabfast on July 02, 2012, 01:29:58 PM
if its popping, you are probably too rich, turn the pilot screws in 1/4 turn
It's turn its better now almost no "popping" [thumbsup] I just learn something today, tanks :)
QuoteQuote from: howie on July 02, 2012, 01:37:38 PM
Needle jet (emulsion tube):
http://www.factorypro.com/products/Mikuni_needle_jet_buy.html (http://www.factorypro.com/products/Mikuni_needle_jet_buy.html)
They tend to wear oval
Dynojet kits don't come with them. Your dealer might stock them.
thanks for the link [thumbsup]
Maybe in a couple of day's I'll be able do more "girly girl stuff" ;D rather then fixing my bike [laugh]
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on July 02, 2012, 02:04:46 PM
Maybe in a couple of day's I'll be able do more "girly girl stuff" ;D rather then fixing my bike [laugh]
what like riding? i almost have to have 2 bikes in my garage at any given time.. one that is ride able and one that im fixing
Quote from: wannabfast on July 02, 2012, 03:10:36 PM
what like riding? i almost have to have 2 bikes in my garage at any given time.. one that is ride able and one that im fixing
noop.... taking a bath, buy shoes, clothe's and other stuff that I canno't discuss here [laugh] ;D
Quote from: koko64 on July 02, 2012, 01:57:54 PM
Good work on setting the float level. [thumbsup]
The Dynojet kit will improve performance. You planning to run an open airbox with K&N filter or keep the airbox stock?
tanks ... for the floats :)
I've ordered the stage1 kit because I have a K&N filter but no pod ... I'm keeping the airbox for now but I'll cut it or I'll make a battery box for the pods [drool] later this year
The stock airbox will be easier to tune.
The jet kit instructions will recommend the jetting for the mods to your bike.
Stage 2 kit is best for open airbox IME.
Quote from: ducpainter on July 03, 2012, 04:09:36 AM
Stage 2 kit is best for open airbox IME.
My suggestion also.
When I jetted mine I asked Bruce how much to drill the lid.
He told me to drill 12 3/4 inch holes and use 155 jets.
I drilled 18 1" holes and needed to go to 165 jets.
No way the Stage 1 kit will have large enough jets for the mods on ducatigirl's bike.
The needle will have a less aggressive taper also if I'm not mistaken.
I removed the top of the lid and had to use 165s also.
I found the factory Pro needle too lean on taper and went with the 730 DJ needle IIRC. Brad gave me some measurements which back up what you're saying, because some DJ stage 1 kits only have the 729 needle which is leaner and probably closer to the FP needle (again IIRC it might be the opposite).
I'm away from the computer so dont have the measurements Brad gave me. He might chime in if he's about.
I think the FP kit only went to 155 Mikuni size. I had two DJ kits and used the 175 jets which were very close to 165 Mikuni jets. I dont have access to the jet charts either. I can't remember if 175 DJ jets are slightly larger or smaller than 165 Mikumi jets.
I'm a firm believer in using the stock springs after alot of mucking around with FP and DJ springs, but that's another story.
Quote from: ducpainter on July 03, 2012, 04:09:36 AM
Stage 2 kit is best for open airbox IME.
I add plan to buy those when I was gonna get the pod's [thumbsup]
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on July 03, 2012, 05:47:49 AM
I add plan to buy those when I was gonna get the pod's [thumbsup]
You want that if you cut your airbox too.
Don't waste money on the Stage 1 kit.
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on July 02, 2012, 05:13:57 PM
and other stuff that I canno't discuss here
pictures? ;D
Quote from: jaxduc on July 03, 2012, 12:09:41 PM
pictures? ;D
No... you just have to ask your wife why she drinks cranberry juice ...lol [laugh] it's a girl thing : ;)
100
Hope you are feeling better, I have a wife and four teenage daughters, so I understand.
What is being suggested is that the Dynojet Stage 2 jet kit will meet all your needs. It has enough jets for Stage 1 & 2 intake mods.
If you buy the Stage 1 kit you may have buy the Stage 2 kit later for open airbox or pods.
You will have to buy the needle jet/emulsion tube separately.
Quote from: koko64 on July 03, 2012, 07:06:31 PM
100
Hope you are feeling better, I have a wife and four teenage daughters, so I understand.
What is being suggested is that the Dynojet Stage 2 jet kit will meet all your needs. It has enough jets for Stage 1 & 2 intake mods.
If you buy the Stage 1 kit you may have buy the Stage 2 kit later for open airbox or pods.
You will have to buy the needle jet/emulsion tube separately.
tanks [thumbsup] poor you... a wife a 4 teenage daughters :o [thumbsup] [cheeky] I hoope you have a garage or the basement to yourself
tanks for all the advice, I've already bought the stage 1 because it suited my immediate needs but I'll buy stage 2 further down when I'll get the pod's ... and I have the link for the emulsion tubes so that on the shopping list next week whit the milk, apples and sugar [laugh] [thumbsup]
My dealer got the emulsification tubes for me pretty quick. Mine was really rich with nearly 30,000 miles on the OEM carbs. The new tubes helped a lot. If you've got the carbs apart, they're worth replacing.
JM
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on July 03, 2012, 07:26:16 PM
tanks [thumbsup] poor you... a wife a 4 teenage daughters :o [thumbsup] [cheeky] I hoope you have a garage or the basement to yourself
tanks for all the advice, I've already bought the stage 1 because it suited my immediate needs but I'll buy stage 2 further down when I'll get the pod's ... and I have the link for the emulsion tubes so that on the shopping list next week whit the milk, apples and sugar [laugh] [thumbsup]
My garage has a weights and kickboxing gym and workshop area with motorbikes. An excellent Man Cave.
What is the number of the needles and largest main jets in your jet kit?
Quote from: koko64 on July 03, 2012, 08:32:48 PM
My garage has a weights and kickboxing gym and workshop area with motorbikes. An excellent Man Cave.
Oh man! I want a garage like that!!
Quote from: koko64 on July 03, 2012, 08:32:48 PM
My garage has a weights and kickboxing gym and workshop area with motorbikes. An excellent Man Cave.
What is the number of the needles and largest main jets in your jet kit?
Gut's must have their " Manly man place " because we take all available space in the bathroom [laugh]
Found the source of the problem ... I think ! ;D :)
this is a fiber plate !!! :o it's all groove up !! talk about a used clutch ! [bang] [bang] + all the friction plates hare 1.2 mm -1.6mm and they are supposed to be at 2.8mm min .
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1665.jpg)
it's supposed to kind a look like that !
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/plate.jpg)
that why the symptom appeared gradually from he last month or so and that why I felt when I turn the throttle it felt like the clutch was slipping !
Barnet clutch kit odered ! ;D maybe is the end of my misery [laugh] Not bad for a girl that knew nothing about mechanic 2 years ago ! [cheeky] [laugh]
on the Bright side, the carb is all done ..lol [laugh] [thumbsup]
So the 100$ question is can I ride in the meantime whit 1 or 2 plate miisng from the clutch ?
:o No.
Stay safe. :)
You will be a carburetor expert soon.
You got 100% value from those friction plates! [clap]
Quote from: koko64 on July 04, 2012, 02:56:06 PM
:o No.
Stay safe. :)
You will be a carburetor expert soon.
You got 100% value from those friction plates! [clap]
Understood [roll] [thumbsup]I wont use the bike [bang] [laugh] I just bought my bus pass for the week [puke]
i think understanding how carbs work is essential for having a bike with carbs, and even knowing how it works helps with fuel injection too, tuning them is fastly becoming a lost art, ive met a handful of people who can tune them by ear, i sort of am that way, but it depends on the carbs, mostly though, i go by what people tell me to set them at and i synchronize them and they magically run better
Yea, the working on my bikes' carbs prepared me for the Mikuni triples that are on my 280Z [laugh]
Glad you got it sorted, clutches are easy to replace if all you have to do is new plates. My next service will likely include plates. I've got 36,000 miles on my OEM plates.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on July 05, 2012, 07:06:12 AM
Yea, the working on my bikes' carbs prepared me for the Mikuni triples that are on my 280Z [laugh]
Glad you got it sorted, clutches are easy to replace if all you have to do is new plates. My next service will likely include plates. I've got 36,000 miles on my OEM plates.
JM
Your to early to change them !! look at the pictures above you can go a easy a total of 48 000 Miles before you have problem whit them [laugh] [cheeky] [laugh] [thumbsup]
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on July 04, 2012, 02:37:57 PM
Found the source of the problem ... I think ! ;D :)
this is a fiber plate !!! :o it's all groove up !! talk about a used clutch ! [bang] [bang] + all the friction plates hare 1.2 mm -1.6mm and they are supposed to be at 2.8mm min .
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1665.jpg)
it's supposed to kind a look like that !
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/plate.jpg)
that why the symptom appeared gradually from he last month or so and that why I felt when I turn the throttle it felt like the clutch was slipping !
Barnet clutch kit odered ! ;D maybe is the end of my misery [laugh] Not bad for a girl that knew nothing about mechanic 2 years ago ! [cheeky] [laugh]
nice gloves... and feet...
Quote from: jaxduc on July 05, 2012, 09:15:15 PM
nice gloves... and feet...
oups ! ;D :o I didn't see that [laugh] hey, you wanted some picture's ....here you go ;D
[thumbsup]
It woks !!!!!!!!!!!!! :D [bow_down] [clap]
It really was the clutch plates [roll].....
tanks all you guy's for all your help , I really appreciate it [beer] [thumbsup]
now lets put this dynojet kit on the carburetor ;D [popcorn] [drool]
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on July 14, 2012, 02:01:17 PM
It woks !!!!!!!!!!!!! :D [bow_down] [clap]
It really was the clutch plates [roll].....
tanks all you guy's for all your help , I really appreciate it [beer] [thumbsup]
now lets put this dynojet kit on the carburetor ;D [popcorn] [drool]
YAY!
awesome!