Dry Clutch Basket and Hub Swap Walk Through

[Slide Panda]

Ok, so it's time for some new internal clutch parts.  This is a walk through for replacing the clutch basket and hub on a dry clutch.  The clutch holding tool, basket and hub i used in that are all by VeeTwo in Australia.  Linky to their ebay store

Tools/supplies you'll need:
4mm Allen*
5mm Allen*
14mm socket
32mm Socket
Picks/pigtails
Torque wrench that's rated to 130 or more Nm
Clutch holder tool
Lock 4 - aka flange sealant aka black RVT
Anti seize (optional)*
medium loctite (optional)*
Sharpie
High pressure high performance grease (optional but suggested)*
- The *'ed items above are for pulling the clutch cover and pressure plate - they are not directly mentioned below


1.  Remove your pressure plate, and clutch plate stack.  If you are planning to reuse your current clutch pack, use that sharpie to label them in the order you pulled them out and set them aside.

Now you'll be looking at this:


2.  Remove you push rod carefully and get ready to remove parts.  With my clutch tool (made by VeeTwo in austrailia) you need to get thigns lined up a little bit

Ready to disassemble


3.  Use the 32mm socket to remove the clutch hub nut.  The nut has a friction lock washer and is torqued down quite a bit.  An impact tool is advisable for busting it loose.  A big wrench w cheater bar may do it - but you DO NOT want to strip this nut.

*Edit - The name has been changed to protect the innocent* If you're using hand tools for this, position yourself/tools so you are pulling up on the breaker bar NOT pushing down. Due to the torque on it the nut takes a lot of force to get loose initially and once it lets go it's quite sudden. If you're pushing downward there's a good possibility of a faceplant - a buddy discovered this the hard way. Pulling up gives you a shot at catching your balance when the nuts comes loose.

Once the nut is loose, remove it by hand, turning it out.  There is a lock washer beneath is you don't want to lose.  Remove the flange and spacer/washer thing (that rusty object in the photo above).  Also, look out for a o-ring pressed into the hub, that is behind the nut capture flange. If you are replacing the hub as well, you'll need to transfer it to the new hub.

Hub removed


4.  Remove the basket retainer bolts.  They should come out fairly easily.  There will be some resistance, since they have that flange sealant on them - but it will just feel like turning a bolt in a rubber bushing.  It should not feel like metal on metal binding.

Basket removed


5.  Clean up.  Even if you have taken good care of your bike, there will be crud back there.  Now's a good time to clean it out.  It's not good to breathe this stuff, so I used a rag.  IF you feel the need to used compressed air, I'd suggest wearing a respirator with the right filters.

The old and heavy steel clutch basket along side the new billet model (this one is made by VeeTwo in Austrailia).  You can see that the teeth on the stock basket have had ridges pounded into them over the miles.  This basket has just over 28K on it.  It could have gone longer... I've seen worse that still work.

- The billet basket is significantly lighter than the stock.  I'd guess about 25-33% of the stock steel ones weight.  

6.  Install the new basket.  The bolts get a helping of that Flange sealant and are torqued to 32Nm.  When tightening, work in a star pattern to ensure that the basket sits flat.

7. Install the new hub (or your old one).  Be sure that o-ring that sat under the hub nut assembly is in place/got transferred to the new hub.  Aside from that, just reverse the disassembly  procedure.  For an M900 the nut is to be torqued to 128Nm.  I've seen some places say it's higher and other bikes might have a different spec - so double check for your particular Monster.  No thread lock is specified in the tech manual, so use at your discretion.

New hub and basket installed


8.  Reinstall plates in the original order, push rod, pressure plate and springs.  I should point out that this is a good opportunity to inspect your pressure plate bearing, the condition of the push rod, plates etc.  Also, it's a good idea to put a dab of high pressure grease on the end of the push rod that will be going into the pressure plate.  

Fully assembled


9. Test.  You've just changed out parts of a major system of the bike.  Be sure it's in proper working order before you go any place far

[He Man]

how much did you pay for that tool?

I made one by welding a bunch of old plates together.
impressive.

[Slide Panda]

It was around $50.  Like the basket and hub is was on the Aussie discount special.  I snagged the tool, basket and hub all at the same time.

[erkishhorde]

IIRC you can skip the hub holding tool by putting the bike into 6th before you take the clutch apart and having one person sit on the brake while a second person deals with the nut. Of course, if you're alone then you'll definitely need the hub holder tool.

[Monstermash]

Great job Yuu!!!

I'm glad to see my old bike went to such a loving owner.

I'll take it back in trade if you want my new one! 

[Fresh Pants]

That clutch holding tool is brilliant. Seems to make more sense than the ones with the handle. 

Nice write up.

[Slide Panda]

It works well, but does take some fiddling/muscle to get the basket, tool and bolt holes all lined up as needed. 

I think I'll hand onto the 900 for now... enjoying the fact that I don't owe anything expect what I want to change... The 1k is fine - but the ACL Dr Man took all my play money.

[He Man]

Yuu, hows is that basket looking? mine is COMPLETELY chewed up. Im throwing it away next week and replacing it with a barnett one with metal bands.

[Slide Panda]

Have not given it a close look since the install. But due to that blown ACL I put about 0 miles in it last year and only a few hundred yet this year.

How many miles did yours see?

[He Man]

Have not given it a close look since the install. But due to that blown ACL I put about 0 miles in it last year and only a few hundred yet this year.

How many miles did yours see?

about 7,000 miles only. Im using stock plates.

[Slide Panda]

Stock plates are steel for both the drive and driven plates in the stack right? If so, no wonder your aluminum basket is toast.

My clutch pack has aluminum friction plates

[He Man]

I thought they were aluminum...they dont rust, are silverish in color and weigh next to nothing. the metal plates are steel. non magnetic too.

[uglyducky]

i'm thinking about goin with an aluminum basket.  is it best to get the one with steel tabs or just to go with aluminum plates?

[He Man]

i'm thinking about goin with an aluminum basket.  is it best to get the one with steel tabs or just to go with aluminum plates?

if you can get aluminum plates go for it. lightweight  is always good. but otherwise id go with the steel ears.

Barnett makes a great basket that is made of billet aluminum. all the ears are wrapped in a steel band and it reduces wear. thats what i have now.