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Author Topic: DIY Painting Tips  (Read 408022 times)
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #600 on: December 09, 2011, 03:53:38 AM »

SORRY...

Missed the kit part.

http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/

I buy mine at my local Federated parts store
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« Reply #601 on: December 09, 2011, 06:51:53 AM »

Here's the rub...

If you apply a stripe over the edge it may show through vinyl. It will definitely show through a painted stripe. I would clear after the color, sand, and then stripe and re-clear.

I like Kleen-Strip 'Aircraft' stripper. It may not be available in all states.

You can do the coating at any stage before paint. After stripping is probably a good call. Don't forget to braze the hinge before you coat.

I did a search for the Kleen Strip, it seems that a lot of auto body supply places have it. There's an auto body supply place not far form me, I'm going to give them a call.

One more question, when I apply the new decals, do I put them on top of the clear or under it?

Thanks for all you help on this!
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #602 on: December 09, 2011, 04:21:53 PM »

I did a search for the Kleen Strip, it seems that a lot of auto body supply places have it. There's an auto body supply place not far form me, I'm going to give them a call.

One more question, when I apply the new decals, do I put them on top of the clear or under it?

Thanks for all you help on this!
Best way for decals.

Paint and clear.

Sand clear with 1000 and re-clear.

First coat of clear on the re-clear is a dust coat.

If you don't understand what I'm saying say so.

Be glad to explain.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #603 on: December 12, 2011, 08:09:22 AM »

Best way for decals.

Paint and clear.

Sand clear with 1000 and re-clear.

First coat of clear on the re-clear is a dust coat.

If you don't understand what I'm saying say so.

Be glad to explain.

I understand everything except for "dust coat"
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #604 on: December 12, 2011, 12:18:57 PM »

I understand everything except for "dust coat"
If you put a full wet coat of clear over clear sanded w/ 1000 grit it will end up on the floor.

Your first coat should be light. It will level. Let it tack up. You want to spray the subsequent coats before the previous coat gets slick to the touch and after it stops 'stringing' when you touch it and pull your finger away.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Raux
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« Reply #605 on: December 12, 2011, 10:34:27 PM »

Never knew the techncal side was so precise for a painteer
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TitanMonsterS4R
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Yup, it's supposed to sound like that....


« Reply #606 on: December 20, 2011, 05:03:41 AM »

Anyone know if the sound changes on an exhaust once it's been ceramic coated.  Thinking about sending Arrow cans in to be ceramic coated and was wondering if it will get damaged or change the sound at all. 
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06 Monster S4R - Red/Black Final Edition
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« Reply #607 on: March 06, 2012, 03:17:45 PM »

Hey DP, questions for you!



My SBK project nears completion and I need to paint the frame (all of the same color laughingdp). I've read through this thread and from my limited understanding I believe I need to:
 - wash / degrease
 - sand the painted parts with 400 dry / 600 wet (btw, wet as with water or some particular mix?)
 - paint & clear coat

Is the above correct, or am I missing something? It's already dis-assembled...

Also, the frame was cut + welded in a few spots (swingarm mount & near the former fuel injectors now carbs), so there was some exposed metal that I sprayed with some anti rust (the spots of white paint). Should I just paint those sections or sand down to the metal and start from a base?

I will be doing the work myself with some spray cans, a bit of a heresy yes, but I'm on a budget now. I'd like to clear coat the frame in a year or two when I have the money.

TIA  bow down
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Then they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Trade Unionist.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #608 on: March 06, 2012, 03:24:24 PM »

Your  synopsis of the process is correct. Wet refers to water.

I would use a completely different set of materials, and probably blast it and work from bare steel...

but on a budget...

Scuff it and squirt it with whatever you can afford.

You understand it won't be fuel resistant.

If you want to spend a bit more, you can get activated materials loaded into spray cans and those would be fuel resistant.

How tight is the budget?
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #609 on: March 06, 2012, 03:39:39 PM »

Budget's pretty tight for now, family stuff takes priority. But a couple years from now, my bling will put rappers to shame! laughingdp

Sand blasting is a maybe; if I can manage it, what would be the process from bare steel?

For now, all I can afford is spray cans from advance auto, or some other place. Since I'm going for black I thought Duplicolor T090 Truck + Suv universal black followed by Krylon Flat Clear....

Scuff it and squirt it with whatever you can afford.
Cheap toilet paper and..


laughingdp laughingdp laughingdp


Thanks! waytogo
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First they came for the Socialists, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Socialist.
Then they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Trade Unionist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me--and there was no one left to speak for me.
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #610 on: March 06, 2012, 04:11:56 PM »

Budget's pretty tight for now, family stuff takes priority. But a couple years from now, my bling will put rappers to shame! laughingdp

Sand blasting is a maybe; if I can manage it, what would be the process from bare steel?

For now, all I can afford is spray cans from advance auto, or some other place. Since I'm going for black I thought Duplicolor T090 Truck + Suv universal black followed by Krylon Flat Clear....
Cheap toilet paper and..


laughingdp laughingdp laughingdp


Thanks! waytogo
If you blast...

epoxy primer with activated urethanes over...

good enough for nasa... good enough for me. Grin

If all you can afford is auto zone...

don't bother blasting yet.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #611 on: March 07, 2012, 01:17:00 PM »

Hey DP, what should I do with the parts of the frame that have been welded and are currently down to bare metal? I have some Rustoleum clean metal primer that I've already used on some spots, should I just use that?

I'd like to clear coat the frame in a year or two when I have the money.
Just realized I made a mistake there, I meant POWDER COAT the frame, not clear coat! For now I will paint and clear coat the frame, later on I will powder coat it.

Went shopping today and saw these at Advance Auto: I got the clear and the black.


Thanks! waytogo
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First they came for the Socialists, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Socialist.
Then they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Trade Unionist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out-- Because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me--and there was no one left to speak for me.
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #612 on: March 07, 2012, 07:03:10 PM »

Hey DP, what should I do with the parts of the frame that have been welded and are currently down to bare metal? I have some Rustoleum clean metal primer that I've already used on some spots, should I just use that?
Just realized I made a mistake there, I meant POWDER COAT the frame, not clear coat! For now I will paint and clear coat the frame, later on I will powder coat it.

Went shopping today and saw these at Advance Auto: I got the clear and the black.


Thanks! waytogo
Sure.

Just make sure you wash the frame with some grease remover and prime and paint.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #613 on: March 11, 2012, 04:59:29 PM »

DP,

I accidentally scratched my CF seat cover with a small box I put on top and then I slid said box, the scratches look as if the clear was dulled, question is, can I use my No7 fine polishing compound to 're-smoothen' the surface?

That's what I have at hand . . . if you send me the 3M or Meguiar's or Mother's way, I'll have to purchase . . .
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Carlos
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #614 on: March 11, 2012, 05:09:14 PM »

DP,

I accidentally scratched my CF seat cover with a small box I put on top and then I slid said box, the scratches look as if the clear was dulled, question is, can I use my No7 fine polishing compound to 're-smoothen' the surface?

That's what I have at hand . . . if you send me the 3M or Meguiar's or Mother's way, I'll have to purchase . . .
Are you sure it's been cleared?

No 7 isn't the best for clearcoat unless by hand.

If they're not deep scratches it might work.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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