DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

Thanks for the links.  I ordered every Ducati black I could find as a pen for testing a while back.  So far I'm thinking I can't get what I want from colorright.  Here's a photo of a quick test on the cut-off from my tail.  The original metalic black has a fine gold/multi-colored fleck to it.



The best match is 7616, though in the right light it doesn't have the correct amount of fleck.  All the other colors are pretty off.  These were from paint pens over un-prepped surfaces just for a quick test.  If I had a tinny chip or scratch I'd use 7616:  http://colorrite.com/product/ducati-metallic-black-2226.cfm

Any suggestions for where to get custom matched paint?  I would be nice to get a pre-filled spray can because I don't have any painting equipment.

Is there an auto paint store near you?

[LookoutforChris]

Is there an auto paint store near you?

Just auto body shops (and not ones that I would let touch the bike, trust me).  I couldn't find any local automotive painting / supply stores.  Can an auto body shop match the paint color and put it in a rattle can for me?

[garryc]

i bought one of these a while ago for touch up jobs.
Still haven't tried it yet.
You should be able to get whatever paint mixed that you want
http://www.preval.com/what-is-preval

[ducpainter]

Just auto body shops (and not ones that I would let touch the bike, trust me).  I couldn't find any local automotive painting / supply stores.  Can an auto body shop match the paint color and put it in a rattle can for me?

Probably not. Their supplier is the one that can.

i bought one of these a while ago for touch up jobs.
Still haven't tried it yet.
You should be able to get whatever paint mixed that you want
http://www.preval.com/what-is-preval

Preval is not too bad.

The advantage to the other set up is you don't have to buy the whole pint/quart, and they have a set up for 2K materials that doesn't mix until ready for use.

[joshuajcrouch]

DP,
Not sure if you are still watching this thread or not, but I have a few questions.  I recently picked up a used 2011 696 front fender from Ebay.  I got it on the cheap in hopes that I can repair it.  Here is a picture of the small crack it has in one of the mounting holes:


What process would I go through to repair/strengthen this crack?  Is there any particular brand of glue/epoxy that I should use?  Any advice?

Secondly, my fuel tank was recently taken to a body shop to have a dent pulled and is now primered ready for paint.  I am intending to have my fuel tank and front fender match, and don't have the money to have a professional do it.  If I were to "rattle can" both my tank and fender, do you have a recommendation on any brand or product that would be best to use?  I am looking for something that will finish nice and be easy to apply in my garage.

Thanks in advance for the services you offer this community.  You are one of the reasons this forum is so great.
Joshua

[DarkMonster620]

DP,
Not sure if you are still watching this thread or not, but I have a few questions.  I recently picked up a used 2011 696 front fender from Ebay.  I got it on the cheap in hopes that I can repair it.  Here is a picture of the small crack it has in one of the mounting holes:


What process would I go through to repair/strengthen this crack?  Is there any particular brand of glue/epoxy that I should use?  Any advice?

Secondly, my fuel tank was recently taken to a body shop to have a dent pulled and is now primered ready for paint.  I am intending to have my fuel tank and front fender match, and don't have the money to have a professional do it.  If I were to "rattle can" both my tank and fender, do you have a recommendation on any brand or product that would be best to use?  I am looking for something that will finish nice and be easy to apply in my garage.

Thanks in advance for the services you offer this community.  You are one of the reasons this forum is so great.
Joshua

I'll shime in since I've done a few of those myself. dp is always mentioning a particular brand of epoxy . . . I use a plastic specific epoxy and start by sanding the area with 340 grit sandpaper inside and outside; apply the epoxy on the inside first and once is dried apply on the outside[I've done it so], then with the same 340 grit sandpaper smooth out the epoxy on the outside, but just enough . ..  then step up to 380 or 400 grit, sand the whole fender to dull the red out, also if sand the interior; next clean and apply  an adhesion promoter or base, in this case, specifically made for plastic; then I use 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the base; I then clean with a good soap with de-greasing properties let it dry well clean with alcohol and then spray the first colour coat . .  let it dry and then apply the second . ..  I go a bit overboard and and wet sand these two coats with 1500 grit and let dry and once again clean with alcohol and apply a third coat . . .

Also, if the crack is a tad too wide, I use a Weller and melt solder the plastic, but just enough . .. but,if you do, on the inside

As said, most of these instructions one way or another where given to me by dp earlier in this thread .  .

[ducpainter]

DP,
Not sure if you are still watching this thread or not, but I have a few questions.  I recently picked up a used 2011 696 front fender from Ebay.  I got it on the cheap in hopes that I can repair it.  Here is a picture of the small crack it has in one of the mounting holes:


What process would I go through to repair/strengthen this crack?  Is there any particular brand of glue/epoxy that I should use?  Any advice?

Secondly, my fuel tank was recently taken to a body shop to have a dent pulled and is now primered ready for paint.  I am intending to have my fuel tank and front fender match, and don't have the money to have a professional do it.  If I were to "rattle can" both my tank and fender, do you have a recommendation on any brand or product that would be best to use?  I am looking for something that will finish nice and be easy to apply in my garage.

Thanks in advance for the services you offer this community.  You are one of the reasons this forum is so great.
Joshua

Couple of things...

if your tank had a dent 'pulled' you really need to consider reinforcing the hinge and coating it. The steel tanks are known for leaking at the hinge.

I'm guessing the shop used a stud welder. It's what I use too. They burn the galvanized coating off the inside and those spots will rust. Also since the tanks are pretty thick it isn't unheard of to have a hairline crack that can leak. I use POR-15 to coat. It's a fairly time consuming process, but if you follow directions it works great.

As far as the fender...it couldn't be broken in a worse spot. I use a plastic repair material similar to jb weld. I would go a little more aggressive than Carlos and v out the crack with a dremel and use some 36 grit and do the repair as much as possible from the inside. The outside can be v'd out and use maybe 80 grit to sand the plastic. Then use 80 then 180 and keep stepping up to sand the filler. There are automotive products that work well. Look into SEM plastic repair materials.

You'll also need an adhesion promoter to get the primer/paint to stick to the plastic.

Truth is, by the time you buy all the materials you could buy a fender that isn't broken.

Probably not what you wanted to hear.

Rattle can paints are not fuel resistant. I can't recommend one because I haven't used them in years. Use what's available.

Another alternative is some paint shops will put professional materials into a single use spray can. If you can get it and afford it you can use a real urethane clear that will withstand the inevitable gas spill.

[joshuajcrouch]

Couple of things...

if your tank had a dent 'pulled' you really need to consider reinforcing the hinge and coating it. The steel tanks are known for leaking at the hinge.

I'm guessing the shop used a stud welder. It's what I use too. They burn the galvanized coating off the inside and those spots will rust. Also since the tanks are pretty thick it isn't unheard of to have a hairline crack that can leak. I use POR-15 to coat. It's a fairly time consuming process, but if you follow directions it works great.

As far as the fender...it couldn't be broken in a worse spot. I use a plastic repair material similar to jb weld. I would go a little more aggressive than Carlos and v out the crack with a dremel and use some 36 grit and do the repair as much as possible from the inside. The outside can be v'd out and use maybe 80 grit to sand the plastic. Then use 80 then 180 and keep stepping up to sand the filler. There are automotive products that work well. Look into SEM plastic repair materials.

You'll also need an adhesion promoter to get the primer/paint to stick to the plastic.

Truth is, by the time you buy all the materials you could buy a fender that isn't broken.

Probably not what you wanted to hear.

Rattle can paints are not fuel resistant. I can't recommend one because I haven't used them in years. Use what's available.

Another alternative is some paint shops will put professional materials into a single use spray can. If you can get it and afford it you can use a real urethane clear that will withstand the inevitable gas spill.

DP,
Thank you for the quick response.  I completely underestimated how difficult this fuel tank and fender was going to be...

I talked with the guy that did the body work on my fuel tank.  He said he used a "nail gun and welded tabs on to pull with a puller".  Not sure if that affects the galvanized coating as negatively as a stud welder.

I also had him look at the fuel tank hinge and he decided to add some welds to the outside to strengthen it.  I can take some photos if that would help.

I have looked into a POR-15 to coat the inside... and it doesn't look fun.  I may call some local radiator shops to see what it would cost to have someone else do it.

Thanks for the advice on the fender.  That was also disappointing to hear.  I am looking at at least another $50-60 in materials, so yeah maybe that was a bust.  I picked up this fender for $20 + $15 in shipping costs.  I don't have it in hand yet, so I am waiting to see how bad the crack is.  Argh.

Thanks again,
Joshua

[ducpainter]

DP,
Thank you for the quick response.  I completely underestimated how difficult this fuel tank and fender was going to be...

I talked with the guy that did the body work on my fuel tank.  He said he used a "nail gun and welded tabs on to pull with a puller".  Not sure if that affects the galvanized coating as negatively as a stud welder.

I also had him look at the fuel tank hinge and he decided to add some welds to the outside to strengthen it.  I can take some photos if that would help.

I have looked into a POR-15 to coat the inside... and it doesn't look fun.  I may call some local radiator shops to see what it would cost to have someone else do it.

Thanks for the advice on the fender.  That was also disappointing to hear.  I am looking at at least another $50-60 in materials, so yeah maybe that was a bust.  I picked up this fender for $20 + $15 in shipping costs.  I don't have it in hand yet, so I am waiting to see how bad the crack is.  Argh.

Thanks again,
Joshua

He used a stud welder.

However bad the POR seems...do it. You'll hate yourself if you don't. I don't like the radiator shop process. It doesn't deal with adhesion/rust.

[joshuajcrouch]

He used a stud welder.

However bad the POR seems...do it. You'll hate yourself if you don't. I don't like the radiator shop process. It doesn't deal with adhesion/rust.

OK OK you convinced me.  I'll spend the $50 and a weekend to do it right.  Thanks again for the advice.

[cmejia1978]

hi Ducpainter! sorry to bother but a friend of mine recommended powder coat instead of oven paint on the frame ( i have a red frame so I wanted a full metallic paint, but I need a robust job that don't crack easily, allthough the metallic look is soo appealing  ), what would you suggest and why? Thank you!

[ducpainter]

Oven paint?

Powder on a frame is the way to go...

unless you can't get the color you want in powder.

Painting a frame is time consuming, difficult, and more costly.

[DarkMonster620]

I would also pc my frame if I were to redo any of the bikes . . . I even pc the AL DSS I got . .. just haven't install it yet . .

[cmejia1978]

Thank you DP and bythe way dark was the one pointing me in that direction earlier  ok, so PC would be! Do you happend to know the red ducati PC id or whatever it's use to identify the number for that color? Thank you! 

[ducpainter]

Thank you DP and bythe way dark was the one pointing me in that direction earlier  ok, so PC would be! Do you happend to know the red ducati PC id or whatever it's use to identify the number for that color? Thank you! 

I doubt there is one. Powder is more of an industrial process than automotive so formulations for colors don't exist.

Take a color sample of what you want to the powder coater and see what he has.

Getting a custom powder color is possible, but usually the minimum order is 10 lbs. You'd have to pay for all of it, plus the regular labor charge, which would make paint the right choice as that would be cheaper.