DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

He will want to show his CF so . . . might just sand it to smooth out and reclear with a UV resisant coat

Have fun with that.

[DarkMonster620]

Have fun with that.

I always do

[theoneillusion]

Thought I'd give an update. Still sanding. Wore two fingers to the knuckle.

[pitbull]

Question for DP:

I recently picked up a 98 ST2 that has been repainted ducati red. The paint job is rough with lots of orange peel and some pock marks which I'm guessing were air bubbles?

Anyhow, would it be possible to wet sand the orange peel and pock marks out or will I need to simply get the paint job re-done?

Thanks in advance.

[ducpainter]

Question for DP:

I recently picked up a 98 ST2 that has been repainted ducati red. The paint job is rough with lots of orange peel and some pock marks which I'm guessing were air bubbles?

Anyhow, would it be possible to wet sand the orange peel and pock marks out or will I need to simply get the paint job re-done?

Thanks in advance.

Tough to say with out seeing it. It depends on how much clear was applied and how bad the peel is. There is always the danger of sanding/buffing through.

I doubt the 'pock marks' would sand out regardless.

[pitbull]

Tough to say with out seeing it. It depends on how much clear was applied and how bad the peel is. There is always the danger of sanding/buffing through.

I doubt the 'pock marks' would sand out regardless.

Thanks very much for the response.

The pock marks are fairly significant so I think you're likely right.

I guess I will just have to quit being a cheap prick and pony of the $ to get her repainted over the winter.

[k_c0305]

Ok, so my plan is to repaint this entire side of the frame with the OEM paint, without disassembly of the bike.  I've read through the majority of the 57 pages of this thread and this is what i've gathered.  As a novice painter, i'd just like to clarify, so here is my plan for painting the frame;

1) Sand the acid stained spots down the bare frame and feather edges. 
2) Rough up the rest of the frame's good paint with a scotchbrite, and degrease.  (repeat x2)
3) Patch prime exposed frame areas (will any primer will do?), flash dry for 10-15mins and then paint
4) First paint coat layer should be quick and thin. 
5) Second layer should be heavier and hit all prepared areas
6) Apply 3rd coat if needed?  Let dry for several days

Should I clearcoat?  If so, how long after final paint coat?
Am I missing anything?
I have a pneumatic spray gun, but I am thinking i should look for something with a shorter spray width so that I don't have so much overspray.

 

[ducpainter]

Ok, so my plan is to repaint this entire side of the frame with the OEM paint, without disassembly of the bike.  I've read through the majority of the 57 pages of this thread and this is what i've gathered.  As a novice painter, i'd just like to clarify, so here is my plan for painting the frame;

1) Sand the acid stained spots down the bare frame and feather edges. 
2) Rough up the rest of the frame's good paint with a scotchbrite, and degrease.  (repeat x2)
3) Patch prime exposed frame areas (will any primer will do?), flash dry for 10-15mins and then paint
4) First paint coat layer should be quick and thin. 
5) Second layer should be heavier and hit all prepared areas
6) Apply 3rd coat if needed?  Let dry for several days

Should I clearcoat?  If so, how long after final paint coat?
Am I missing anything?
I have a pneumatic spray gun, but I am thinking i should look for something with a shorter spray width so that I don't have so much overspray.

 

You have most of the steps, but in the wrong order and are missing a few.

Clean first. Don't sand until you've degreased.

Apply a couple of coats of primer, allow to dry, and then sand it or the edges will show.

You don't need to re-prime unless you sand through to metal.

Clean again, but not with a degreaser. Alcohol or spray-away glass cleaner work well.

Use whatever recommendations are on the can. Most rattle can products can be applied wet on wet. If they dry too long, before full cure, they will lift/wrinkle. Most auto paint supply stores can put top quality 2K materials in a spray can. That way you don't have to worry about solvent resistance.

Whether or not to clear will depend on what you apply for a base, and the desired level of gloss, unless you have a low gloss color put in a spray can. The wait time is governed by the material you use.

If you use off the shelf rattle can and allow the color to dry you typically have to wait 7 days.

[oldndumb]

ducpainter, Many kudus to you for sharing your expertise!! 

I did not know about glass cleaner being acceptable for the final wipe. Should that be done before or after a tack rag?

Is this the glass cleaner you recommend?

http://www.spraywayinc.com/product-categories/glass-cleaners

[ducpainter]

ducpainter, Many kudus to you for sharing your expertise!! 

I did not know about glass cleaner being acceptable for the final wipe. Should that be done before or after a tack rag?

Is this the glass cleaner you recommend?

http://www.spraywayinc.com/product-categories/glass-cleaners

Yes, the SW-050. Available at most auto parts stores. My pinstriper uses it.

I use a liquid final wash. DuPont or HOK, only in gallons, but anything that leaves no residue and has no petrochemicals or surfactants will work.

Tack rag is always last.

[DuciD03]

ok duck man this is arena .... couple of little prepping and painting q's

I tried searching but there's 57 pages .... s2r 05 yellow tank paint delaminating from ethanol.

what's the best material to fill the scratches before sanding? (a liquid filler?)  best primer (and primer colour on the yellow tanks?) to stick to those plastic tanks?  Im hoping to spot fix, prime and paint / blend the fix ... impossible?  I have the Duc yellow in a pen and need to get a catalyst urethane clear.

Cheers D

[ducpainter]

ok duck man this is arena .... couple of little prepping and painting q's

I tried searching but there's 57 pages .... s2r 05 yellow tank deep scratches from the previous owners slide;

what's the best material to fill the deep scratches before sanding? (JB Weld? or a liquid filler?)  best primer (and primer colour on the yellow tanks?) to stick to those plastic tanks?  Im hoping to spot fix, prime and paint / blend the fix ... impossible?  I have the Duc yellow in a pen and need to get a catalyst urethane clear.

Cheers D

My experience is it sometimes is more work trying to spot repair than doing the whole tank.

I use Evercoat polyester putty for scratches like that. They would have to be very deep to use an epoxy. Keep in mind you need to clean and sand the area before filling. The polyester fillers sand well, whereas JB Weld or similar don't.

Best primer? Anything that is activated. As far as color goes match whatever the shop that painted the tank for Ducati used...probably white although some shops used grey. What do you have available?

What equipment do you have? Blending a small spot can be tricky, and is impossible with a spray can.

The job always looks best if you clear the whole tank.

[DuciD03]

My experience is it sometimes is more work trying to spot repair than doing the whole tank.

I use Evercoat polyester putty for scratches like that. They would have to be very deep to use an epoxy. Keep in mind you need to clean and sand the area before filling. The polyester fillers sand well, whereas JB Weld or similar don't.

Best primer? Anything that is activated. As far as color goes match whatever the shop that painted the tank for Ducati used...probably white although some shops used grey. What do you have available?

What equipment do you have? Blending a small spot can be tricky, and is impossible with a spray can.

The job always looks best if you clear the whole tank.

I picked up some Pro Flo blending / finishing putty with a hardener a while ago but had doubts about using it on the plastic tanks (are the nylon?); thats what you use, so I'll use it too; asides from detergent what should I use for a cleaner? Alcohol? Xylene? MEK 

Activated primer; is that like the 2 part urethane?

I have some small compressors and some small auto paint sprayers that Ive never used that I got on sale.  I might try clearing the whole tank but I had some problems with the clear on a metal Yami tank last winter; some runs and a little orange peel effect that I ended up sanding and buffing out.

[SpikeC]

some runs and a little orange peel effect that I ended up sanding and buffing out.

 Isn't that pretty much normal? The orange peel, I mean. I don't think that I have seen a perfect smooth finish off of the gun.

[ducpainter]

Isn't that pretty much normal? The orange peel, I mean. I don't think that I have seen a perfect smooth finish off of the gun.

You'd be surprised what you can get out of the gun.

If the painter and the equipment are up to it, the only reason to polish is dust.

Keep in mind that is typically on a re-clear.