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Author Topic: DIY Painting Tips  (Read 412476 times)
red baron
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« Reply #150 on: December 28, 2008, 12:24:35 PM »

what is the last thing you painted Nate?


 Huh? Undecided
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TiAvenger
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« Reply #151 on: January 07, 2009, 08:07:12 AM »

Mister Nate, 
Couple of questions for ya.

Would the prep for just finished fiberglass pieces be the same as anything else?

Is there a small hobbyist gun/compressor or airbrush that isnt too expensive, that gets decent results?

Do you place decals/ pin striping below or above the clear? 

Should one wait 30-60 days to mount the newly finished pieces on the bike?

Am I crazy?

 Grin
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #152 on: January 07, 2009, 09:18:58 AM »

Mister Nate, 
Couple of questions for ya.

Would the prep for just finished fiberglass pieces be the same as anything else?

Is there a small hobbyist gun/compressor or airbrush that isnt too expensive, that gets decent results?

Do you place decals/ pin striping below or above the clear? 

Should one wait 30-60 days to mount the newly finished pieces on the bike?

Am I crazy?

 Grin
The prep for the glass kinda depends on how it was constructed. If mold releases were used you need to be sure to use the right solvent to remove them. If they were hand laid with no mold release then it is not so crucial and 'standard' (depends on how you do it normally) methods are fine.

I'm actually the wrong person to ask about hobby sized equipment. I'm sure there is, but I'm not aware of it. My experience with spray equipment has been as a 'pro'.

I like the graphics under the clear...except on race/track bikes. Those things are going to crash and repair is easier if you don't have to sand off all the clear to remove graphics. Also they aren't viewed with the same scrutiny as our street bikes.

No...mount them when they're dry enough to handle. Keep in mind that the bolt locations will be soft enough to allow imprinting, and possibly "oozing" of the finish. If that's an issue then waiting will eliminate most of it.

Yes.   Tongue
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TiAvenger
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« Reply #153 on: January 07, 2009, 10:10:45 AM »

This may be a stupid question, but could one use a airbrush, to paint, say a tank?
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ducpainter
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« Reply #154 on: January 07, 2009, 05:53:37 PM »

This may be a stupid question, but could one use a airbrush, to paint, say a tank?
maybe one could...

but not this one. Wink
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mojo
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« Reply #155 on: January 07, 2009, 06:28:08 PM »

It would take a while to even paint a tank with an airbrush.  A mini gun would probably work good for a beginner painting bike parts.  I got a Devillbiss Starting Line gun kit with a full size HVLP gun and a mini HVLP gun for primer guns.  You can buy the mini gun for around $75 and it sprays decent and isn't much more $$$ than an airbrush.


BTW... Nate, have you ever used UV primer?  That's what I use in my mini gun.  Pretty cool stuff... spray it, put it out in the sun, and it's sandable in 5-10 minutes.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #156 on: January 08, 2009, 05:58:45 AM »

It would take a while to even paint a tank with an airbrush.  A mini gun would probably work good for a beginner painting bike parts.  I got a Devillbiss Starting Line gun kit with a full size HVLP gun and a mini HVLP gun for primer guns.  You can buy the mini gun for around $75 and it sprays decent and isn't much more $$$ than an airbrush.


BTW... Nate, have you ever used UV primer?  That's what I use in my mini gun.  Pretty cool stuff... spray it, put it out in the sun, and it's sandable in 5-10 minutes.
You need to try a Sata mini jet. Wink

I haven't used it. Dry time is less of a concern to me than film build, adhesion, and corrosion resistance. I like epoxies/modified epoxies. Plus, the sun hasn't been out here in days and the temps are in the teens. Grin
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


mojo
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« Reply #157 on: January 08, 2009, 10:32:49 AM »

I've used the Mini-Jet and it is a very nice gun, but I can't justify over $300 for a mini gun for as little as I'd use it.  I do more body work and priming than I do painting.

The UV primer is made by R-M (VP126).  It is some really cool stuff.  1.5-2 coats out of a mini gun with a 1.0 tip and needle has the same build as 3 coats out of a full size gun with a 1.6-1.8 tip.  It has corrosion resistance very close to epoxy, the adhesion is almost too good (similar to epoxies) and it is a 1K product, so there is no waste.  There is only about 6% solvent, so there is also no shrinking.  It's also available in a spray can for smaller jobs.
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« Reply #158 on: January 08, 2009, 06:54:14 PM »

I have been looking for advice for my painting project and I'm glad to find a professional willing to assist rookies.
I laid my bike down and need to repaint the tank and front fairing which are both plastic (2007 S4RS).
How would I go about prepping these items for painting which have no structural damage but some scratches.
The plan is to give the bike a matte black paint job and a matte clear coat. I'm planing on using a Devilbiss touch- up HVLP gun to shot the paint. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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« Reply #159 on: January 09, 2009, 05:51:51 AM »

I have been looking for advice for my painting project and I'm glad to find a professional willing to assist rookies.
I laid my bike down and need to repaint the tank and front fairing which are both plastic (2007 S4RS).
How would I go about prepping these items for painting which have no structural damage but some scratches.
The plan is to give the bike a matte black paint job and a matte clear coat. I'm planing on using a Devilbiss touch- up HVLP gun to shot the paint. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


I can only tell you how I do it.

Gather all your materials...be prepared to use plenty of vaseline when you pay the bill.

Clean everything before you start. Wash with soap and water and dry, then use a wax and grease remover.

Assuming you are going to remove the decals and stripes, sand off the clear with 150/180 and remove the stripes and logos. Don't sand the adhesive into the finish. after the decals are off use goo gone or an adhesive remover to get the leftover adhesive. If you use goo gone make sure to wash the tank again as it's oil based.

When you get everything reasonably flat use an adhesion promoter on any bare plastic following label directions then prime with a primer surfacer. This might be a problem with some surfacers using the small gun.

When your primer is cured/dry scuff the areas that have gouges and fill the gouges with a polyester glazing putty and sand smooth. Spot prime those areas and let cure/dry.

You're now ready for final sanding. I use 400 dry, wash, tack, and then seal with an appropriate color sealer. Then color and clear.

Nothing to it. Wink
« Last Edit: January 09, 2009, 06:00:44 AM by just another painter » Logged

"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Big Troubled Bear
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« Reply #160 on: January 09, 2009, 06:00:58 AM »

i sprayed the left side of a yellow 999 on fri.

My wife`s toe nails waytogo
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Zaster
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« Reply #161 on: January 09, 2009, 05:32:30 PM »

I can only tell you how I do it.
Nothing to it. Wink
Sweeeet and thanks for sharing your expertise.
I located all the recommended ingredients less the color sealer and finish.
Anything you can suggest for the color sealer, the matte black finish and
matte clear would be greatly appreciated.
 
 
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #162 on: January 09, 2009, 05:49:31 PM »

Sweeeet and thanks for sharing your expertise.
I located all the recommended ingredients less the color sealer and finish.
Anything you can suggest for the color sealer, the matte black finish and
matte clear would be greatly appreciated.
 
 
What brand paint is available?

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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Zaster
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« Reply #163 on: January 09, 2009, 05:55:05 PM »

What brand paint is available?
Through work I can get Sherwin Williams or Dimension which would help keeping the expense down.

                           Thanks agian
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ducpainter
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« Reply #164 on: January 09, 2009, 06:03:59 PM »

Through work I can get Sherwin Williams or Dimension which would help keeping the expense down.

                           Thanks agian
I used to use S-W primer and clear and I used a little bit of the Dimension color.

I don't use them any longer for a reason. The clear stayed soft too long for moto tanks and the primer shrunk.

I can make specific product recommendations for PPG and HOK.

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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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