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Author Topic: DIY Painting Tips  (Read 408018 times)
TitanMonsterS4R
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Yup, it's supposed to sound like that....


« Reply #570 on: November 01, 2011, 05:26:42 PM »

Instructions say to to just clean, score with a scotch pad, wash, dry and paint.  I got the cure part from reading previous posts.
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Langanobob
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« Reply #571 on: November 02, 2011, 01:55:07 AM »

DP, I think those Speedymoto belt covers are anodized.  If so, will an anodized surface require a different  prep than bare aluminum?  

Bob

Edit:  Just saw the part about scoring the surface with a Scotchbrite pad, maybe that will deal with paint bonding to the anodized surface.
« Last Edit: November 02, 2011, 01:59:03 AM by Langanobob » Logged
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #572 on: November 02, 2011, 02:53:58 AM »

DP, I think those Speedymoto belt covers are anodized.  If so, will an anodized surface require a different  prep than bare aluminum?  

Bob

Edit:  Just saw the part about scoring the surface with a Scotchbrite pad, maybe that will deal with paint bonding to the anodized surface.
Good catch

Anodized parts require abrasion, and Alodine will do nothing.

I would use an epoxy primer on the anodizing and then an activated urethane.

In the OP's case I'd follow label directions.
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    To realize the value of nine  months:
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TitanMonsterS4R
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Yup, it's supposed to sound like that....


« Reply #573 on: November 02, 2011, 04:49:47 AM »

Good catch

Anodized parts require abrasion, and Alodine will do nothing.

I would use an epoxy primer on the anodizing and then an activated urethane.

In the OP's case I'd follow label directions.

The circles which were anodized were powdercoated to make things just a little more complicated Smiley
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #574 on: November 02, 2011, 05:02:31 AM »

The circles which were anodized were powdercoated to make things just a little more complicated Smiley
What is the state of the parts you want to paint?

Bare...anodized...?
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 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Josh_357
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« Reply #575 on: November 02, 2011, 05:04:10 AM »

Hey ducpainter,

I got two questions. First is mostly a story with a "what'd I do wrong?" Wanted to paint my own red with black stripe s4r seat cowl. So I bought an unpainted OEM cowl, prepped it, painted with acrylic base coat in a an aerosol from here http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_aerosol.cfm. I let paint set for about a day. Then laid the oem black stripe decal over the base coat. Now here's probably where I went wrong. I did not color sand, didn't think I needed to. Then I laid the oem decal dry, wasn't sure I could wet lay it and only had one decal. I didn't have any bubble visible though.

Then I sprayed 2K spraymax urethane clear in aerosol, http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm. I let that set up for a couple days then wetsand and polish to a shine. The cowl looked great, see pic of old broken and shiny new one I did below.



Then all hell broke loose! First time out in sun I got a ton of bubbles under the decal. Looks like a teenagers acne face! Where'd I go wrong?

My plan of attack now is to cut the decals out and paint the stripe and reclear, but what could I do different next time?

Second question is quick, any experience with paintless dent repair? Like this http://motorcyclepaintlessdentrepair.com/testamonials.html
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TitanMonsterS4R
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Yup, it's supposed to sound like that....


« Reply #576 on: November 02, 2011, 05:09:42 AM »

What is the state of the parts you want to paint?

Bare...anodized...?

See pic below.  The belt covers (circles) themselves are powdercoated yellow and the rest of the belt cover is 6061 billet aluminum (not colored). 

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ducpainter
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« Reply #577 on: November 02, 2011, 05:23:35 AM »

Hey ducpainter,

I got two questions. First is mostly a story with a "what'd I do wrong?" Wanted to paint my own red with black stripe s4r seat cowl. So I bought an unpainted OEM cowl, prepped it, painted with acrylic base coat in a an aerosol from here http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_aerosol.cfm. I let paint set for about a day. Then laid the oem black stripe decal over the base coat. Now here's probably where I went wrong. I did not color sand, didn't think I needed to. Then I laid the oem decal dry, wasn't sure I could wet lay it and only had one decal. I didn't have any bubble visible though.

Then I sprayed 2K spraymax urethane clear in aerosol, http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm. I let that set up for a couple days then wetsand and polish to a shine. The cowl looked great, see pic of old broken and shiny new one I did below.



Then all hell broke loose! First time out in sun I got a ton of bubbles under the decal. Looks like a teenagers acne face! Where'd I go wrong?

My plan of attack now is to cut the decals out and paint the stripe and reclear, but what could I do different next time?

Second question is quick, any experience with paintless dent repair? Like this http://motorcyclepaintlessdentrepair.com/testamonials.html

You didn't wait long enough to apply the decal. Solvents got trapped under the vinyl and that is the result.

You may have difficulty applying the decal and not having some evidence of the repair. Good luck.

My limited experience with paintless repair is that it is never perfect.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #578 on: November 02, 2011, 05:27:00 AM »

See pic below.  The belt covers (circles) themselves are powdercoated yellow and the rest of the belt cover is 6061 billet aluminum (not colored). 


That is also anodized.

It will need to be scotch brited at the minimum.

As I said, I use epoxy primer because that is the standard for use over anodizing in the aerospace/mil spec world. It works.

Some materials are not suitable for use over epoxy primer.

I think in your case, not knowing what the rattle can will do, I'd just skip the primer.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Josh_357
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« Reply #579 on: November 02, 2011, 05:30:04 AM »

You didn't wait long enough to apply the decal. Solvents got trapped under the vinyl and that is the result.

You may have difficulty applying the decal and not having some evidence of the repair. Good luck.

My limited experience with paintless repair is that it is never perfect.

Thanks, how long should I have waited till applying the decal?
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #580 on: November 02, 2011, 05:39:39 AM »

Thanks, how long should I have waited till applying the decal?
longer?  Tongue

Your links don't work, and I can't find tech info on color on the site.

Many rattle can products require you wait a week. Technique, temps, and film thickness will vary the requirement.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


TitanMonsterS4R
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Yup, it's supposed to sound like that....


« Reply #581 on: November 02, 2011, 05:44:06 AM »

That is also anodized.

It will need to be scotch brited at the minimum.

As I said, I use epoxy primer because that is the standard for use over anodizing in the aerospace/mil spec world. It works.

Some materials are not suitable for use over epoxy primer.

I think in your case, not knowing what the rattle can will do, I'd just skip the primer.

Thanks DP
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Howie
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« Reply #582 on: November 02, 2011, 05:57:10 AM »

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_aerosol.cfm

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

Try them now.
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Josh_357
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« Reply #583 on: November 02, 2011, 06:10:57 AM »


Thanks for cleaning up my links Howie!  waytogo
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Howie
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« Reply #584 on: November 02, 2011, 06:53:32 AM »

Thanks for cleaning up my links Howie!  waytogo

My pleasure.  Thanks for the info on that company.
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