2v adjustment advice

[K3V1N]

I would like some advice, based the values below should I adjust anything and do you think if I had the work done by a ducati tech they would? Also will I notice the motor running rougher based on the gaps? I know they are all with in acceptable range but I don't mind taking the time to get them closer if it will make a difference.

Top cylinder
Intake   opener .003 (but .004 will fit)  /  closer .006
Exhaust   opener .004  /  closer .006

Front cylinder
Intake   opener .004  /  closer .007 (.008 will fit)
Exhaust   opener .003 (but .004 will fit)   /  closer .006

The only valve I was thinking about adjusting was the front intake closer.

Thanks for any advice on this!

[Slide Panda]

Those closer numbers seem awful big. By what method did you get those numbers?

[K3V1N]

Thanks for the reply,

Sorry I should have been more clear. The values for the closers are in inches measured at the opener gap when pressure is applied to the closer arm. So .006 is really a .002 closer gap which is 0.05mm.

That puts the larger gapped closer that I'm thinking about adjusting to .003" or 0.17mm but since the .008 can be jammed in it might be a tiny bit larger that .003 gap.

[Slide Panda]

Sorry I should have been more clear. The values for the closers are in inches measured at the opener gap when pressure is applied to the closer arm. So .006 is really a .002 closer gap which is 0.05mm.

Ok - lots better.

Yeah that front intake close is headed towards the upper end. Still within specs which are .001-.0078" for a 2v

Did you take your measurements with the belts off? If not, take the belts off and measure again - you want no load on the cam which is something you can only be sure of with the belts off.

[ducpainter]

.007 is ludicrous for a closer on a 2V.

[Slide Panda]

Dp he just wrote the feeler sizes without the maths. It's only .003 on that closer

Front cylinder
Intake   opener .004  /  closer .007 (.008 will fit) = .003"
Exhaust   opener .003 (but .004 will fit)   /  closer .006

[ducpainter]

Dp he just wrote the feeler sizes without the maths. It's only .003 on that closer

I'm talking about the 'spec' you posted.

[Slide Panda]

Oh, that's Ducati recommended clearances as written in LT Snyders manual. Of course he notes that he aims for <.002" on the closers and .004" for the openers

[K3V1N]

I think maybe my question about the big opener was answered in another post. I think because it was the top valve in the front I may have been pushing on it too hard. So I guess my next question is would you do anything about a valve that it .0035 opener and .0025 closer?

[ducpainter]

Oh, that's Ducati recommended clearances as written in LT Snyders manual. Of course he notes that he aims for <.002" on the closers and .004" for the openers

Ever consider why Ducati all of a sudden changed a spec on a clearance without making any changes to design or materials?

I know and like LT, but I disagree.

Closers on a 2V should be between 0 and .0005...or no drag when rotating the cam.

[Slide Panda]

From recent experience, no... Just did my valve and sanded down an .0025 opener. I've got a closer at .003 than I didn't mess with (though I could have been pushing a bit hard)... But i'm going to keep an eye on it

[K3V1N]

Thats for the feedback. I'm going to check that top closer to make sure that I stop pushing on it when the spring bottoms. If that brings the value to .002 then I'm going to leave the 2 other valves that are at .0035 opener and .0025 closer.

I agree that the closers at 0 to .05  probably would make a little difference but the first time the valves where checked at 6400k the valves were all at .004 open and .002 so I can't imagine they were all at 0 new and with my avg mileage I will have to do this again in the fall so maybe then I will replace all the closers.

[junior varsity]

apparently the reasoning on the change in spec i learned while getting some 'field experience' was that Ducati changed the spec so there would be less wear on rockers / cams / etc and stretch the useable time for each shim - all trying to reduce costs to the owner.   That was the 'gist' of the logic I was told during my 'learning time'

[ducpainter]

apparently the reasoning on the change in spec i learned while getting some 'field experience' was that Ducati changed the spec so there would be less wear on rockers / cams / etc and stretch the useable time for each shim - all trying to reduce costs to the owner.   That was the 'gist' of the logic I was told during my 'learning time'

I've heard it suggested that it was strictly to reduce cost, and the qualifications of the available techs.

If you don't believe me, take the time to actually adjust to as close to 0 as possible, and see if the bike doesn't idle smoother and have better throttle response.

Assuming of course the throttle bodies are synched and the fueling is otherwise correct.

[junior varsity]

well that last part is 'the pregnant dog', now isn't it.