The 280Z - In the driveway pics!

[the_Journeyman]

Haven't found a BMW that fits my liking.  I did find this today, looks in pretty good shape.  What can the collective minds of DMF tell me about a 280Z?  

http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/2566855075.html

JM

[Buckethead]

Light and nimble.

Can be hopped up as much as you'd like it to be.

If you don't want to sink a bunch of time and money into the native straight six, you don't have to.

The engine bay is wide enough to accommodate a Chevy small block. And juuuuuuuust long enough to accommodate one with a supercharger on the front.

Or so I've been told. 

Also, if you use an aluminum block and relocate the battery to the trunk, you only add about 40 lbs to the front end.

[the_Journeyman]

Oh dear.  I didn't need to hear how easy it was to make it go faster.  I like quick and good handling vehicles.  I have e-mailed about mileage so see if it's a tolerable number.

JM

[IZ]

Funny..one was in front of me at the light yesterday with an AZ "Classic car" plate on the rear.

This one is in A LOT better condition.  Would be fun to take on all those back country roads and the dragon JM!!    

[thought]

i've always loved the look of this car... a well restored one looks amazing.

found this link, should give you a decent idea what you're looking at if you're looking to restore it at all.

http://zhome.com/Classic/Refresh/Refreshing72Z.htm

and here is a 240 that was factory restored in 98

http://www.themotoringenthusiast.com/240z

[the_Journeyman]

This one is in A LOT better condition.  Would be fun to take on all those back country roads and the dragon JM!!    

I like "fun" handing/driving/riding vehicles.  I think I should at least look this over in person, depending on the mileage.  I mean, I ride a M750.  That means in the straights, I'm on the throttle stops, but in the tight stuff I'm not working hard to keep up.  That's what I want in a car too.

JM

[caperix]

If it has the same guages as my '74 260Z then the odometer resets at 100K so true milage may be hard to conferm.  People have done just about anything to a Z car that you could think of.  Check out hybridz.org to get an idea.

[Timmy Tucker]

Make sure you double check for rust, don't take their word on it. Rust on Z cars gets pretty out of hand, they can rust/rot literally anywhere on the car. No experience with the 280Z, but I did a pretty extensive build-up on a 240Z years back. Check the usual suspects... frame rails, floor pans, trunk, rear hatch, rockers, shock towers. Rusted out shock towers or window frames would be a deal breaker for me, pretty much anything else can be fixed with a judicious application of fluxcore and Benjamins. Just depends how much $$ you wanna throw at it.

I'm currently working in Asheville. I could take a look at it for you if you like.

[Howie]

Make sure you double check for rust, don't take their word on it. Rust on Z cars gets pretty out of hand, they can rust/rot literally anywhere on the car. No experience with the 280Z, but I did a pretty extensive build-up on a 240Z years back. Check the usual suspects... frame rails, floor pans, trunk, rear hatch, rockers, shock towers. Rusted out shock towers or window frames would be a deal breaker for me, pretty much anything else can be fixed with a judicious application of fluxcore and Benjamins. Just depends how much $$ you wanna throw at it.

I'm currently working in Asheville. I could take a look at it for you if you like.

Yep, you could almost hear them rust while driving.  Often the cosmetic rust is repaired but not the structural components.

[RAT900]

Yep, you could almost hear them rust while driving.  Often the cosmetic rust is repaired but not the structural components.

I'll swear I saw them in showrooms back when...with rust on them

Datsuns and Toyotas were always notorious rust buckets at least up here in the northeast

Hondas somehow didn't suffer the same issues as readily

[the_Journeyman]

Talked to the seller today, going to see it tomorrow.  I specifically asked about rust, mentioned I knew these cars were prone to rust problems.  His response was "It really doesn't have much, it's really a good, solid car."

JM

[the_Journeyman]

Here's the results of an in-person look.

1)  Owner is deploying as a private contractor and wants EVERYTHING gone (280, F150, Camper, etc) within the next week because he leaves Sunday.

2)  Didn't bullshit me about anything I could tell about.  If he wasn't sure/didn't know, he stated so (the fact my wife was asking about the color of the exhaust right at startup & the first thing I did was hit the pavement with a flashlight checking the underside for rust probably helped in that area).

3)  To his knowledge it hasn't flipped the odometer back to 0.  Looks of inside the engine bay and the overall tell me this is likely an accurate statement.  That means it has an original 87,000 miles one it.  Condition is really good from my inspection.

4)  There is some rust, but it seems to be confined to body panels more than structural stuff.  Shock towers front look good, rear suspension mounts look good too.  I checked inside and out/under with a flashlight.

5)  Some rust/small amount of bubbled paint at base of driver & passenger door, but we're talking a thumbnail sized area that is bubbled and a similar size that is showing rust

6)  It has been painted at some point.  The paint was flaking around the headlights showing a slightly different white underneath.  Not done in the ownership of the current owner, so no info on when.

7)  Carbed, started fairly quickly (spun for about 3 seconds, caught, died, hit switch again caught almost immediately and settled into a nice, even idle).  Took throttle easily not stutters on blipping the throttle

  K&N filters installed, aftermarket ignition installed, recent plug wires.  Based on smell of exhaust runs a tiny bit rich if anything.

Pics:

Intakes for vents, ZERO rust underneath


Front corner of driver's door:


Upgraded ignition:


K&N filters with insulating cloth over exhaust manifold (some rust on collector, but no major rust on visible exhaust parts:


Not sure what this is, but it was the only part of the car that had any grease buildup on it.  Just under intake filters:


Not sure purpose of clamps, radiator seemed securely mounted.  Might have been a mounting aid.  current owner didn't put them there & doesn't understand why they are there.


Driver's floor pan, minimal rust, passenger side similar:


Wheels, just because I really like them:


Is offering $2500 out of line?

Thanks

JM

[Punx Clever]

Looks like a good car, just in need of a paint job.  I assume there are no major dents? Did you take it out on the road at all? or just fire it up?  That would give an indication as to the tranny and rear end.

I'd offer 2500, with the intent of going up to 2750.

[the_Journeyman]

I didn't drive, it was POURING the rain and I didn't think it was the best idea to drive it being unfamiliar with it.  It also has the glass T-tops, and according to him after driving it in two different light rains, they didn't leak.

Turns out the wheels are Konig Rewind best I can find. 

My thoughts were offer $2300 or $2500 and see what he said. 

JM

[Punx Clever]

Gotta give 'er a test drive before you drop down cash.