S2R valve adjustment question

[K3V1N]

I have done a bunch of valve adjustments on the smaller 2v motors. But this is my first smaller valve 1000 adjust. Here is my question.

With the opening rocker clips off. I can get one rocker moved to the side easy but I can't seem to get both off to check that the closers aren't too tight.

Has anyone had trouble with this and found a trick?

Thanks

[ducpainter]

It's easiest with the belts off.

You'll need to rotate the cam slightly to get both arms out of the way.

[K3V1N]

Cool as long as there isn't something different about these motors where you can only pull one rocker at a time I will figure it out. I was also surprised how much harder these smaller rocker clips were to remove.

[ducpainter]

Cool as long as there isn't something different about these motors where you can only pull one rocker at a time I will figure it out. I was also surprised how much harder these smaller rocker clips were to remove.

...and the half rings are freakin' tiny. 

[K3V1N]

I'm hoping I don't have to mess with the closers this time. The intake closers valves have .002 with the gauge feel on the tight side and the exhausts have .001 again a little more drag on the feeler so if I can make sure there is no drag on the cam I will leave them but front cylinder exhaust opener is .003 so I going to sand that to .004 then all the openers will be .004 and my closers will be .0005 to .0015. That should be pretty close to perfect. I just have to mess with it more I guess to get both opening rockers to slide over at the same time.

[ducpainter]

I use .005 for exhausts.

If you take the time to do closers even at .0015 you'll notice a difference. The half rings last longer too.

[K3V1N]

Hmm,
Just so I'm 100% you are talking inches and you open the exhaust openers to .005 and you don't try and get closers as close to 0 as possible without cam drag you open them up to .0015?

I still can't seem to get both the rockers off at once. It was so easy on my 620.

Thanks for your help.

[Speeddog]

The DS motors are more prone to breaking half rings, so chasing the closer clearances down is a good thing.

I do exhaust openers to .005 also.

The cams on a DS do have more drag than the previous version, as they're plain bearing not ball bearing.

I'm not sure if you can slide both opener rockers off at the same time, I've not tried.

I think dp is saying getting the .002 closers down to .0015 is an improvement.

And yes, we're talking inches.

[brad black]

i pull the opening rockers out, makes it much easier to deal with the closers.  the ds motors usually have highspots at the ends of the closing lobe, so they drag at those two points and not in the middle. i set them for no drag at the end points.

[He Man]

you cant slide both arms over  on the DS1000 motors.

[ducpainter]

The DS motors are more prone to breaking half rings, so chasing the closer clearances down is a good thing.

I do exhaust openers to .005 also.

The cams on a DS do have more drag than the previous version, as they're plain bearing not ball bearing.

I'm not sure if you can slide both opener rockers off at the same time, I've not tried.

I think dp is saying getting the .002 closers down to .0015 is an improvement.

And yes, we're talking inches.

Actually, I was saying the closer to 0 the better.

I'd go after the .0015 closers.

[K3V1N]

Thanks for all the help guys. So after measuring the valves 5 times and moving the cam side to side to make sure the load is 100% off the opener cam here are the numbers from the factory after 7k miles.

Front Cyl
Intake
O .004/ C .001
Exhaust
O .003 snugish / C 0
Top
Intake
O .005 snug / C .003
Exhaust
O .005 less snug / C .001 snug

I sanded the 2 exhaust openers to be .005 with a little drag on the feeler

But I do have 2 more questions.

The front exhaust closer is really at 0. I move the cam and don't feel any drag and the bike has been like that since new. But I have to push and jam the next size feeler gauge in there. Do I take it off and sand it to .001 or leave it as is. 0 is within spec?

My second question is has anyone replaced a closer with the belts on. It really isn't that hard to get to the valves on these bikes (wish the loose closer was on the front cyl though). If someone can tell me it's possible to replace a closer with the belts on I might put it back together and enjoy this weather in the east and then pull it apart to just do that one loose closer .003 in a week or two when it starts to rain.

Thanks again!

[ducpainter]

As close to 0 with out drag is the right spec. 

I would not chance doing the closer with the belts on. You won't be able to feel any drag if you shoot for zero clearance, and there are too many possible variables in measuring technique and machining tolerances.

[K3V1N]

Yeah, your right. But this warm weather we are having on the east coast is going to kill me if I have to wait for a 7mm measuring tool then shims. The old CB500 just isn't the same as the S2R on my 60 mile trip back and forth from work. But I will do what is best for the bike like always

One more question and this is the last, I think.

Can you reusing a belt? I don't want to do this but say I did my service with new belts then in a year I do the non belt 6k service. Can I take the belt off and put it back on or is it best to get new belts then?

I try and do the best I can when the belts are off so the next check is just a check.

But I have always wondered.

Thanks again

[ducpainter]

Belts can be re-used.

I always mark the position and direction of rotation...

just like a directional tire.