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Author Topic: Testastretta valve adjustment opperation vs checking clearance  (Read 3968 times)
caperix
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« on: April 14, 2012, 01:15:40 PM »

I am preforming the 15K service on my 848 this weekend.  I have the valve covers off measuring the valve clearance, a few of the closers measure with in the checking clearance of .25 mm but are out of spec on the opperation clearance of .10 mm.  I understand the closer you can get the closers to 0 the better the bike will idle, but am torn if I should go through the process of
removing the cams to adjust valves that are not technically out of specs.  What is everyones oppinion on this, should I let it go another 7.5k until the next service or should I set them tighter as long as I have the bike apart.  I would have to order shims leading to more down time so that is affecting my desicion some.  I am also surprised that at 15K this bike has not needed any valves adjusted yet.
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brad black
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« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2012, 02:16:46 PM »

on 4v i set the inlet openers to 0.10mm, the exhaust openers to 0.15mm, the inlet closers to 0.08 - 0.10mm and the exhaust closers to 0.05 - 0.07mm.

closing clearance at 0 is a 2v thing, not a 4v thing.
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Brad The Bike Boy

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caperix
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« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2012, 04:44:15 AM »

Thanks for the updated specs Brad, I had heard that Ducati was going to looser clearance limits to reduce repair costs. 
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caperix
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2012, 02:14:25 PM »

OK another question on, what does everyone use to adjust the belt tensioner pulleys? They are 26mm hex but sit flush with the face of the pulley. The video I saw online shows using an adjustable wrench to turn them, they are too far resesed on my bike to turn them this way. 
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brad black
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2012, 05:54:25 PM »

a normal 26mm ring/open end spanner.  mine is ground at the ring end to reduce the od of the section that protrudes below handle level.
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Brad The Bike Boy

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Bill in OKC
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 07:55:22 AM »

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'07 S4Rs  '02 RSVR  '75 GT550  '13 FXSB  '74 H1E  '71 CB750
caperix
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2012, 02:09:28 PM »

Where did you get that wrench it looks like exactly what I need
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Bill in OKC
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« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2012, 02:36:16 PM »

It is a regular wrench, not sure what brand, that has been ground down probably similar to Brad's.  I used a dremel and a cutting wheel to cut/shave it away and then cleaned it up with a file.  The first bit was hardest but the metal gets a little softer as you cut down into it.  It took a few hours but it was a winter project.  It slips in between the frame and the engine on the vertical cylinder where a socket wouldn't.
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« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 07:22:31 PM by Bill in OKC » Logged

'07 S4Rs  '02 RSVR  '75 GT550  '13 FXSB  '74 H1E  '71 CB750
caperix
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« Reply #8 on: April 28, 2012, 10:33:41 AM »

Finished this up today, thanks for the help Bill & Brad. I ended up using a 26mm socket, there was just enough room to get it
through the frame on the verticle belt.  This sure makes the 2 valve bikes seem easy to work on. Why Ducati felt that the cams do not need timing marks, I am not sure. At least they were smart enough to have them sit the same way when the cylinders are at top dead center.
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brad black
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« Reply #9 on: April 28, 2012, 02:42:11 PM »

the 1198 motors have the cam t slots on the end all sit the same way at horiz tdc, just to confuse everyone.
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Brad The Bike Boy

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