1st time valve adjustment

[bdfinally]

I've been slowly taking stuff off my '00 M750 for the past week or so and getting a feel for what's what with regard to doing the valves. I've read all the threads, checked the Pro Italia vid, the Ducati suite vid, and read the Haynes, LT Synder and the factory shop manual on the process. I did a "dry" run yesterday, with the belts still on just to get the feel of  finding TDC and then doing loaded/unloaded measuring. A  few questions, 1. does it matter which cylinder you begin on. 2. I'm having a tough time getting a good look into the horizontal (both exhaust/intake and find the oil galley to plug), will removing the front wheel help? 3. Will the measurements change substantially when I remove the belts?

As always, thanks in advance.

[EEL]

You better fully understand timing if you're taking off belts buddy.

Timing marks are for horizontal Cylinder TDC but you cant feel TDC once your belts are off because your valves should be fixed when you move your crank.

Four points of check for timing

1) Horizontal Cam Gear Pulley Tick Mark
2) Vertical Cam Gear Pulley Tick Mark
3) Double pulley between Tick Mark
4) Dots on Flywheel

Oil galleys are on the exhaust side of both cylinders.

[WetDuc]

Retry the wording of your questions...

[bdfinally]

You better fully understand timing if you're taking off belts buddy.

Timing marks are for horizontal Cylinder TDC but you cant feel TDC once your belts are off because your valves should be fixed when you move your crank.

Four points of check for timing

1) Horizontal Cam Gear Pulley Tick Mark
2) Vertical Cam Gear Pulley Tick Mark
3) Double pulley between Tick Mark
4) Dots on Flywheel

Oil galleys are on the exhaust side of both cylinders.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I plan on removing the belts when I do this, this w/e. What confused me was since the timing marks are for the horiz. should I start with the vertical, go to TDC for it, remove the belts, do that cyclinder and then put belts back on. Then wash, rinse, repeat for the horizontal.

Are you saying the galleys are towards the exhaust side of both the intake and exhaust, because I've plug both in the vertical already.

[bdfinally]

Retry the wording of your questions...

Sorry, what part(s) are you having trouble parsing.

[WetDuc]

1. does it matter which cylinder you begin on.  I don't think so.

2. I'm having a tough time getting a good look into the horizontal (both exhaust/intake and find the oil galley to plug), will removing the front wheel help? 
You only need to plug the vertical cylinder intake...maybe the horizontal intake, too.  Use a flashlight.  I don't massively worry about plugging the horizontal, but I am really careful with the half rings and opener shims.  Be good with the magnetic picker upper and use a closer rocker arm wedge.  There is no substitute for the wedge IMO, perfect tool for the job.  Half rings go flying when they are halfway off and your screwdriver slips off the rocker arm and snaps up.  Clear plastic wrap is useful to make a little cover around the bottom shim stack while you do work.  Keeps crap from going into the galley.  I don't remove the front wheel, but it would make more room to get in there.  I found two positions I can get into that give me leverage and where I can see, kinda laying down halfway on the side.

3. Will the measurements change substantially when I remove the belts?
I don't think so if you are correctly finding TDC. 


Not confusing questions to answer.
Sorry for my previous comment, I had just finished doing my valve adjustments and I think I saw your questions and had a million responses going through my mind because my hands were still greasy.

[EEL]

The galleys are only on the exhaust side. You should see them when you open up the valve covers.

As for TDC. Its important for resetting timing when your done but as you probably already know, its also important for measuring your clearances. Before you take your belts off, mark the vertical cam gear and the outside housing of the belt enclosure (the part thats connnected to the motor) with a tick mark of nail polish so you can establish your TDC location. Since the TDC tick marks are related to the horizontal timing, you'll need these to ensure your measuring at the right valve position for the vertical cam once your belts are off.

[K3V1N]

Chris from CA cycle works does a good job at showing how to mark the belts to make sure the new belts go back on correct. I   replaced belts a couple times with no issues before I saw this and started doing it. Watch the CA belt video on youtube for the 2V 1000DS.

It really is all very simple if you have done the research that you listed you should have no issue. Pull the pieces to get to the inspection covers. Find TDC on the horizontal cyl. TDC mark in the inspection hole and the pulley dots should line up. loosen tensioners, remove belts, rotate cams to find the slack point in for each valve. check clearances. You only need to worry about the oil holes if you pull closers and worst case use a little mirror or look at a photo online.

These were my notes from my first service I have learned a lot since then but they might help.
http://620monster6kservice.blogspot.com/

[K3V1N]

One more thing to add is the reason TDC is important is because you will want to turn the motor with the belts off to bring the piston up on the cyl that you are taking closers off of so the valve can't fall in. So making sure that you can find TDC is important so you can do it before you install new belts. But TDC with the marks lined up is easy to find. Knowing to move the piston so you don't drop a valve is the real tip. That way you don't need forceps or rubber bands to try and hold it up.

Post back if you need to adjust any closers and people can give you more tips.

[bdfinally]

it's cool...and thanks for the insights

[bdfinally]

Chris from CA cycle works does a good job at showing how to mark the belts to make sure the new belts go back on correct. I   replaced belts a couple times with no issues before I saw this and started doing it. Watch the CA belt video on youtube for the 2V 1000DS.

It really is all very simple if you have done the research that you listed you should have no issue. Pull the pieces to get to the inspection covers. Find TDC on the horizontal cyl. TDC mark in the inspection hole and the pulley dots should line up. loosen tensioners, remove belts, rotate cams to find the slack point in for each valve. check clearances. You only need to worry about the oil holes if you pull closers and worst case use a little mirror or look at a photo online.

These were my notes from my first service I have learned a lot since then but they might help.
http://620monster6kservice.blogspot.com/

Yeah. I've gone through your thread, Sealander, Dirt Monster, Nomad and a couple from TOB a few times. Removing the belts is what kept hanging me up (and gettting my big coconut in to see the horizontal ) Appreciate the input!

[bdfinally]

oh and one of other thing, someone please tell me a micrometer with an .025 diameter shaft is going to work, because both the shars and mitutoyo ones I have are that size.

edit to add: nevermind, I've got 7mm valves, right?

[Speeddog]

'00 M750 is 8mm valves, so your micrometers are fine for the opener shims.

Best to buy/beg/borrow/steal a closer measuring tool.

[bdfinally]

Bought one from EMS a year ago.

[Raux]

Someone pointed out to me, for the range of tolerances.
for the openers, closer to the larger end of the tolerance is better ie, .010-.015 should be .015 target
for the closers, closer to the smaller end of the tolerance is better, ie. .000-.010 should be .000 target