NGR Clutch hub install?

[Ddan]

Sounds like you don't have it lined up right.

Just take it off and keep turning it until you feel the splines engage and the pressure plate slides all the way in. It can definitely be felt

Ok, i re-oriented the pressure plate so the splines engaged, but no luck yet. Just for reference, I did not install the spacer with the new hub. The hub nut and the locking washer are the only things securing the hub drum. Any other suggestions?

I'd keep screwing with it, there must should be a way it fits

[koko64]

+1 on the pressure plate not engaging the hub teeth.
Take the springs off again and jiggle the pressure plate until it's teeth engage the drum teeth. You will need to push the last few mm against hydraulic pressure on the push rod to seat it home. You know it's home when press on it, as  you can't as easily spin the pressure plate because it's teeth are fully meshed with the drum teeth. You gotta compress those plates fully because the slave cylinder hydraulics are pushing against you.
So press hard on that plate!

If that don't do it then you may have a plate stack height issue with the new parts which will require adjustment. Not serious, just requiring measurement and some friggin' around with plates.

[The Mad King Pepe']

I've got a bunch of stupid questions for you, hopefully they will help you find the issue:

1. when everything is assembled, if you pull on the clutch lever, does the pressure plate move out? does the pressure plate move back in when you release the lever?

2. when you turn on the bike and put it into gear, what happens when you release the clutch? does any part of the clutch turn? outer basket, pressure plate?

3. did you swap baskets as well, or did you just change the hub? if you changed/removed the basket did you bolt it back on?

4. do the splines/grooves on the new hub match up to those on the axle? see following pic (courtesy of yuu) try taking the plates off, and rotating the hub by hand with the engine in neutral and then in gear: it should spin freely in the first case and not in the latter.


hope this helps!

[Real Recognize Real]

+1 on the pressure plate not engaging the hub teeth.
Take the springs off again and jiggle the pressure plate until it's teeth engage the drum teeth. You will need to push the last few mm against hydraulic pressure on the push rod to seat it home. You know it's home when press on it, as  you can't as easily spin the pressure plate because it's teeth are fully meshed with the drum teeth. You gotta compress those plates fully because the slave cylinder hydraulics are pushing against you.
So press hard on that plate!

If that don't do it then you may have a plate stack height issue with the new parts which will require adjustment. Not serious, just requiring measurement and some friggin' around with plates.

Update - I haven't had the chance to work on the clutch in awhile do to work, but I'm back at it again.

I can confirm that at least the pressure plate is properly aligned and the hub drum teeth mate to the pressure plate.

The pressure plate rotates when the bike is in neutral and does not spin when in in the lower gears. It will spin in one of the higher gears, but I don't remember if it's 4th or 5th gear.

I measured the complete clutch stack height and it's 38mm ~ 1.5".

I assume the next step is playing with plates, correct? I saved my old plates so at least i did something correct. Any suggestions on what's next?

[Real Recognize Real]

Just solved my problem. I figured that the engagement problem was due to the clamping force of the pressure plate was being overcome by the hub's torque. So I decided to add another steel plate closest to the hub and I have an operational machine again.

It's funny to think that this problem was due to ~2mm.

[The Mad King Pepe']

It's funny to think that this problem was due to ~2mm.

Don't let anyone tell you otherwise: size matters!!!

[ducpainter]

Just solved my problem. I figured that the engagement problem was due to the clamping force of the pressure plate was being overcome by the hub's torque. So I decided to add another steel plate closest to the hub and I have an operational machine again.

It's funny to think that this problem was due to ~2mm.

Basically the effect was the same as the PP teeth binding on the hub except it was the flat surface because of insufficient stack height.

Glad you got it sorted.