Engine Noise, Left side, LOUD!

[DesmoTillDeath]

I managed to burglar a used stator off ebay for $100 

The issue I have with the damage to the wires is that because the cross sectional area of the wire in those locations has been decreased significantly and thus increased its resistance. The results in a larger voltage drop in those areas. IE less voltage for the things that matter (spark, ECU, lights...etc.). All of this is why I decided to change the stator.

Part should be here this week. I'll post any problems with install.

Otherwise thanks all for the help and advice! ride safe 

[krista]

Good move on getting a new part. The EE in me wants to know how you quantified the decrease in output? Without actual testing, I believe this is more of a "sleep at night" type of situation. Peace of mind is worth the effort though.

[DesmoTillDeath]

chris, I was thinking of the super basic concepts of circuit analysis. As cross sectional area goes down, resistance goes up (for the same material). And then V=IR for series circuits. So as resistance goes up so does the voltage drop. Thus my initial assumption of less output.

So I got the new/used stator which came off of an '01 750. This shouldn't matter because they are the same part. Put it in last night and started her up only to find that it doesn't run right.   

This morning I drove to campus and despite the fact that it runs quieter;
-idles high (1300-1500)
-idle oscillates a little
-When moving at slow speed up to maybe 30 mph it bucks as if it is cutting out (scary when cornering)

When I took the cover off the first time and found the loose nut I took the flywheel off the crankshaft in order to check everything out.
Is there a specific was that it needs to go back on? My Haynes manual said to line up the punched tick mark on the flywheel with the keyway on the shaft.
The problem is that there are two keyways on the end of the shaft, One is short and the other extends to the beginning of the threads for the nut.
I lined it up with the longer keyway.

Also my book calls for 190 Nm for the alternator nut.......this is really high. I put it at 80 ftlb. with copious amounts of blue locktite. Any thoughts?

Did I reassemble the generator/alternator wrong?
Could the poor running actually be caused by something else which was masked before by a loose generator/alternator?

TB's still need synching....    (I got quoted $110 at Southern California Motorcycles in Brea for TB synch and TPS adjustment included  )

[Speeddog]

~~~SNIP~~~

Also my book calls for 190 Nm for the alternator nut.......this is really high. I put it at 80 ftlb. with copious amounts of blue locktite. Any thoughts?

~~~SNIP~~~

Yes.
You're very likely to have a repeat incident with the nut that loose.

They spec it that tight for a reason.
Torque it to ~150 ft-lb, with red loctite.

While you've got it open, confirm that the crank/cam gears are timed correctly.

Be careful with the shim washer on the back of the flywheel, it likes to fall into an inappropriate location.

[DesmoTillDeath]

                                                                                           Blast   

[Raux]

Be careful with the shim washer on the back of the flywheel, it likes to fall into an inappropriate location.

been there, done that

[krista]

chris, I was thinking of the super basic concepts of circuit analysis. As cross sectional area goes down, resistance goes up (for the same material). And then V=IR for series circuits. So as resistance goes up so does the voltage drop. Thus my initial assumption of less output.

Right, but that's theory... and I've normally found theory is a 1/1000 effect in real environments. If the wires were only barely big enough to handle their job, then it might be a difference. They're probably 100x bigger than they need to be.

[DesmoTillDeath]

Opened up the left cover again last night and found that the timing gear for the valve train had been off by one tooth.
I'm guessing that this was not great enough of an offset to cause interference with the piston (since I ran and all).
Now that the alternator/generator noises are all gone I can hear other whistles and whines that I will see to as they progress.

Alternator nut + red locktite + 140 ftlbs. = DONE

Runs great now. Still feels like a bit of a power loss since january but then again I havnt checked compression, synched the TB's, checked the clutch plates, changed the spark plugs, lapped the valves, port and polish, PC III, hot cams, lightweight flywheel, billet clutch hub, ........a bit ahead of myself at the end there.

Thanks everyone for your insite and experience. Its not only comforting but impressive the community of knowledge and expertise that flows freely in the DMF.