Starting problem

[Qomomoko]

 

got a feeling is going to the the ground is not good!!! Will look for it and clean it today

Thanks

[seanster]

My symptom recently:  bike won't start, everytime I hit the start button i can hear the click and the clutch/piston (dry clutch) trying to move and start the bike but nothing happen.  This was during an all day ride...so throughout the day I literaly had someone "push-to-start" my bike 

My method to test the solenoid was - disconnect the power cable to the Starter, turn on bike and press the start button...if I hear a click then the solenoid is working okay.  which i did hear the clicks

Second to check your ground cable from the battery to the frame/engine case...even you see that it appears fine, check again.  I disconnect my OEM ground and test fit a different ground cable I had at hand....wala...bike start right up.

time to make new power cables!!! 

[seanster]

got a feeling is going to the the ground is not good!!! Will look for it and clean it today

Thanks

replied to your other post...but yeah check the ground (to the engine case)...mine went bad (but the cable looks perfectly new) (bike only had 5000 miles for a 2001 model)

Here is a video of the simptom:

[Howie]

My symptom recently:  bike won't start, everytime I hit the start button i can hear the click and the clutch/piston (dry clutch) trying to move and start the bike but nothing happen.  This was during an all day ride...so throughout the day I literaly had someone "push-to-start" my bike  

My method to test the solenoid was - disconnect the power cable to the Starter, turn on bike and press the start button...if I hear a click then the solenoid is working okay.  which i did hear the clicks

Second to check your ground cable from the battery to the frame/engine case...even you see that it appears fine, check again.  I disconnect my OEM ground and test fit a different ground cable I had at hand....wala...bike start right up.

time to make new power cables!!!  

A click means the solenoid is moving, but it can still be the problem.  If the contacts inside the solenoid have high resistance you can get a click and no power.  Proper testing is to take a voltmeter and attach the positive probe to the connection from the battery and negative to the connection from starter to ground.  Crank starter.  Your meter should read .2V or less.  What you are reading is the voltage consumed by the solenoid.  The same could have been done for your ground cable.  This test is called voltage drop.  Google it.

[Qomomoko]

A click means the solenoid is moving, but it can still be the problem.  If the contacts inside the solenoid have high resistance you can get a click and no power.  Proper testing is to take a voltmeter and attach the positive probe to the connection from the battery and negative to the connection from starter to ground.  Crank starter.  Your meter should read .2V or less.  What you are reading is the voltage consumed by the solenoid.  The same could have been done for your ground cable.  This test is called voltage drop.  Google it.

The continuity test is moot if I read 13V at seleoid contact, or at the + lead on the starter right? If not, key off, battery still connected, multimeter in the conituity test which looks like a ground symbol, then touch both multimeter ends and hear a sound, then try it with  one multimeter end on the + battery and the other multimeter end on the Starter + connection  and if hear sound then got continuity from Battery + to the Starter +... right?

Can same continuity be done for the Battery to ground?

I need to take an electrician course or something similar.
Any one know if an interactive web page for such learing please put the link LOL

[Langanobob]

You have an interactive electrical course right here, if you will just follow Howie's suggestions.

[ducpainter]

I'm going to merge these two threads as they're the same issue...

[Howie]

The continuity test is moot if I read 13V at seleoid contact, or at the + lead on the starter right? If not, key off, battery still connected, multimeter in the conituity test which looks like a ground symbol, then touch both multimeter ends and hear a sound, then try it with  one multimeter end on the + battery and the other multimeter end on the Starter + connection  and if hear sound then got continuity from Battery + to the Starter +... right?

Can same continuity be done for the Battery to ground?

I need to take an electrician course or something similar.
Any one know if an interactive web page for such learing please put the link LOL

You can go from battery positive to the starter.  You will be measuring voltage drop.  You would want to see .5 volts or less while cranking or attempting to crank.  More than .5 volts you will need to check individual components, connections and wires.  Same for the negative side.  Voltage drop is measured with the meter in parallel with the component under load.  You could take your meter and go from the connector on the starter ground and measure voltage available at the starter.  Positive to the connection at the starter, negative to battery ground.  Subtract from battery voltage and you have roughly calculated voltage drop, certainly good enough for a no crank situation.  The there is the shade tree method.  Battery voltage straight to the starter motor.

Lots of videos on the interwebs.  I have posted some on this board.  Search for starter circuit testing, voltage drop testing and multimeter use.  Look for the videos from educational sources, not amateurs.

Fist step is always confirm the battery is good.  Future diagnosis without this step is like pissing up a rope.

[Qomomoko]

Thanks....

Hope to test today

[Qomomoko]

neg battery to engine case 0.1 ohms, neg battery to bolt on the Starter motor about 0.2 ohms

pos battery to + lead Starter motor with switch pressed, 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

my connections are good right?

still not used a different battery.

and the continuity sound, well sounds.

[Howie]

Ohms does not cut it for cranking resistance.  The circuit  needs to be under load (cranking or attempting to crank) and measure voltage drop.  Again, good battery necessary!

[Qomomoko]

Hey guys. Got a new Starter Motor.

The mechanic took it off and said there were some magnets loose inside the motor that appeared to have "fallen"/come off due to heat.

At that time I was starting the bike about 3 to 6 times in order to get her going b/c of the cold weather would not let her get started.

so apparently I caused the starter to break.

I suppose like any electrical motor, b/c of hi starting currents there should be a maximum number of start attempts for a given time.

Thanks for all the help.

ps.. come other questions about chain slack ..

[Howie]

from your owner's manual:

Important
Never operate the starter more than 5 seconds at a
time. If needed, allow 10 seconds before attempting to
restart the engine.

[Qomomoko]

Happy Thanks Giving!! You all are great at giving advice and also for some internet fun.
This cold weather has my Ducati acting up a gain. (on previous messed up starter motor, Otalora racing (William) helped me out, I thought I had posted such update)

When it gets really cold she not start nicely.

Video 1 is what happens when cold:





After checking electrical stuff and it all being fine, I was ready to return the Li Shorai battery when voila, it started, hence video two. The battery is about 1.5 years old. Shorai said to send it and they will test it. Before I send it, what you guys think? is it my starter solenoid? (figure revive this older thread and looking over previous advice)