Trouble Getting Going

[ducpainter]

Chances are a regular one will be fine but...if they have a silicone cap...buy it. You won't have to worry about it cracking and causing a leak a few years down the road.

[ChrisK]

Another question along those lines.

On my intake manifolds, on the 'outside' of them there are two more nipples. Each one has a hose connected two them, which then meet in a T-fitting and another hose runs up toward the battery box. That hose doesn't go anywhere, just sitting there open, been like that since I've owned it. What's the purpose of that? If it doesn't serve a good purpose can I replace with caps?

[Howie]

They are for the carbon (evaporative  emissions) canister that fell off your bike many years ago.  You can leave it as is if you don't mind the mess, cap them or unscrew the nipples  and replace them with 5mm. screws and crush washers.  Up to you.

[justin123560]

You should plug it with the 5mm and crush washer. Vaccum caps deteriorated pretty fast (from experience) when exposed to the elements.

[greenmonster]

Fuel lines are ok, no kinks when tank is lowered?
Had these symptoms when a fuel line had semicollapsed,
only letting enough fuel through to idle, stumbling at
takeoff, not accepting throttle  when moving.

[ChrisK]

Fuel lines are ok, no kinks when tank is lowered?
Had these symptoms when a fuel line had semicollapsed,
only letting enough fuel through to idle, stumbling at
takeoff, not accepting throttle  when moving.

Yes, I ruled that out. Getting plenty of gas to the carbs.

[Rudemouthsky]

Still waiting on the jets to arrive I assume? Been watching this thread with great interest, you and I have very similar setups.

[ChrisK]

Still waiting on the jets to arrive I assume? Been watching this thread with great interest, you and I have very similar setups.

Yeah, tracking number says the package will be here tomorrow. I've got everything else squared away, now I just need to throw in the slows and mains and test it out... then rejet and retest, then rejet and retest, then rejet and... you get the picture.

You're running those hi-comps and big bores right? That'll add in the variable of the ignitech for you. I'll be there next winter probably 

[Rudemouthsky]

Yeah, tracking number says the package will be here tomorrow. I've got everything else squared away, now I just need to throw in the slows and mains and test it out... then rejet and retest, then rejet and retest, then rejet and... you get the picture.

You're running those hi-comps and big bores right? That'll add in the variable of the ignitech for you. I'll be there next winter probably  

I'm not running anything yet...there is a huge pile of parts slowly climbing up the wall in my living room that my wife is thrilled about. I'm 1000 miles away earning the cash to pay for it all. I'll be back to put it all together in a few weeks. Hopefully it goes smooth, Aviz from this board is building my engine and Mark @ Ducshop is balancing my crank so the hard stuff is hired out, I'll still have to sort out the jetting and Ignitech and bolt everything together.

[ChrisK]

Nice, just checked the tracking number again, package is a day ahead of time. Should be able to do the rejetting tonight!

[ChrisK]

Okay I'm about to tackle my first round of rejetting.

I plan on doing the following:

Air screw: 1 Turn
Fuel screw: 2 Turns
Slow Jets: 55
Needle Clip: 5th Position
Main Jets: 165

The fuel screw sticks through the bottom of the float bowl, correct? Where is the air screw?

[Skybarney]

Two little blue pills in the gas tank should cure the problem.  If it runs for more than four hours you should consult a doctor.     

[Speeddog]

Air screw is accessed through a hole in the bellmouth adapter (where the carb attaches to the airbox rubber).

It's the ones at ~1 O-clock when the carbs are installed.

[greenmonster]

The fuel screw sticks through the bottom of the float bowl, correct?

Yes.

[ChrisK]

Speeddog, is that impossible to adjust without taking the airbox off? Or am I just not looking hard enough?

I just got the bike to run!

However I think I went the wrong direction on my slows. Stock was 60, I went to 55. When I'm pulling away from a stop or at zero throttle coming into a corner, the bike stumbles. Then once I get to what I would call 1/4 throttle, she takes off. Does that sound like I need to go back to the 60's or higher? Is there another adjustment I could look at there? I set the fuel screw at 2 turns from the stock 3/4. Air screw still at 1.5.

When I'm cruising at speed, there's a "chirpy" noise from the airbox vicinity. Is that the mating call of the FCR's or is that a too-lean indication?

I have quite a bit of popping on decel. Is that an indication of too rich on the mains and/or needles?