Trouble Getting Going

[ChrisK]

Having some trouble getting my bike going for the spring.

It idles fine, and seems to rev fine at idle. Then when I put it in gear and try to take off it bogs down and dies.

Some things that were done this winter: FCR 41 install, lightened flywheel, valve adjustment, new belts.

[ChrisK]

98 M900

[ChrisK]

Could my timing be off?

[Speeddog]

Where did the FCR's come from?

When you put the flywheel on, did you align the dot with the slot on the crank?

[ChrisK]

Ca-cycleworks.

Yes.

[Speeddog]

Ca-cycleworks.

Yes.

OK, good answers.

Valves and belts.... experience level of the tech?

[ChrisK]

My first time doing them.

I followed the direction of the Haynes manual, ducati suite, ducati tech, and those on the forum when preparing myself to do them.

Belts were installed with the red dots lined up with the raised "nubs." Vertical belt given 5mm clearance, horizontal given 6.

I had a thread a while back asking some questions about checking my valves. 3 of four valves were in spec and I had to barely sand some off the closer on one to get it in spec.

I should add it takes a couple minutes to get warmed up to the point where I can give it gas and it doesn't die. If it's cold, I start it and it's idling at say 2000 rpm, if I give it gas right away it just quits. In neutral.

[ChrisK]

Sorry, 6 vertical and 5 horizontal.

[koko64]

Be interesting to see what slow jets are in it and how the plugs look. (Don't you reckon Nick)?
Is it worse when it warms up but starts easy?

Also I forgot what mods were done. Open airbox, pods, etc?

[ChrisK]

Shouldn't the slow jets be the same that cycleworks always has success with in their FCR's?

I'll take a plug off and take a picture.

Reason I suspect timing is because I had to take the ignition sensor bracket off at some point. I'm 99% certain I bolted it back on exactly in the same position as it was before. However, if I didn't, and/or the PO didn't have it set right, the install of the FCR's might accentuate a timing mistake. Or is that false thinking?

Also, I don't know if a timing problem would be affected by the bike warming up, as this appears to be.

[ChrisK]

[koko64]

You gotta measure up and set the ignition pick ups correctly to spec if you move them. They should have been marked before you moved them. We're talking ignition pick ups in the timing case or another part?

One plug looks too rich, not sure about the other with the light.
I have found 60 slow jets way too rich, but that's with kangaroo fuel. Nick will have the better base line specs to try for your mods. Too rich slow jets give a great cold start then clag the plugs once its warmed up.

Running stock airbox or openAB/pods? 155 main jets can be too lean for open AB or pods too.

[ChrisK]

I'm talking the bracket that the ignition pickups are mounted on behind the alternator cover. I did put markings on it before I unbolted it and then I lined them up when I put it back on.

I don't have a good cold start. The opposite.

I don't think jets that are alightly off would completely prevent it from taking off from a stop.

[koko64]

Are those plugs 8s or 9s in heat range? 9s may be too cold. Most people I know run 8 in NGK heat range. Could be as simple as that.

The pick up also needs to be a certain distance from the Flywheel trigger as it comes round. Check the Haynes manual on procedure. The Haynes manual has the spec (I forgot). You use a feeler gauge and set it by moving the bracket in or out a little IIRC.

Nick, Howie or someone will chime in (I don't work on many Ducks).

[ducpainter]

You need 8's for plugs Chris. 9's are way too cold.