Trouble Getting Going

[ducpainter]

Ca-Cycleworks jets for a basically stock intake set-up if I'm not mistaken. Small changes in configuration can make a difference, so every bike can benefit from some tweaking...some benefit more than others and some need different jets.

[ChrisK]

I would hope they jet for at least the K&N filter they send with you in the kit.

I was also under the impression that they jet the carbs for you based on the specs of your bike you give them in the order notes. Guess I shouldn't have assumed that.

Oh well, it hit 50 degrees here yesterday for the first time since October. I just want to make the beast with two backsing ride. 


Anybody have less than favorable experience with either the Electrex or Rick's pickups? To purchase two of them from electrex and ship them here it would cost about $110. To do the same from Rick's it would cost $150 plus shipping, but I'm assuming they would get here faster.

[ducpainter]

No FHE with Rick's pick-ups, but I've had one of his regulators in my bike for about 10 years.

There are so many variables with jetting there's no possible way one setting can be right for every bike. Sure chris takes into account the K&N, but he doesn't know how open your airbox might be, or if you drilled the lid as opposed to cutting it, how many and how large the holes are. He does a good job with basic set-up. You gave him all the right info which is why your bike ran. That isn't the same as being spot on.

When I put a jet kit in my bike Bruce Meyers gave me jetting specs and told me to drill 12 3/4" holes. He had used those settings for hundreds of bikes successfully. I figured 18 1" holes was better.

His jetting recommendations were too lean...for my bike. I suspect that the way the FCR's I have now, yet to be installed, will be too lean because of the same thing.

[ChrisK]

I understand one jetting setup isn't all encompassing for these bikes, or any for that matter. What I'm saying is that in my order notes, when purchased from Ca-Cycleworks, I specified that my bike was a 98 900 with W heads, had on open air box with K&N filter, ExactFit coils, and really free-flowing slip-ons. I was under the assumption Cycleworks would take into account the details I gave them and jet my carbs with those details in mind. Too much to ask I guess.

[ChrisK]

Okay back to the triggers.

I had time at lunch to take my alternator cover off and do some inspecting. First, visual check of the wires is good, no noticeable breaks. Second visual check, not so good. One pickup appears to be very close to the timing lump on the flywheel. I spun the wheel around to the other pickup, and there's a large visible gap between it and the lump. Below are some pictures showing the difference:





So that could obviously cause no spark. BUT, that wouldn't cause no resistance, correct? So is it still safe to assume there's either a broken wire or it's a bad pickup? I ran out of time to check the resistance right at the pickup, and I plan on doing that later tonight.

[ducpainter]

I understand one jetting setup isn't all encompassing for these bikes, or any for that matter. What I'm saying is that in my order notes, when purchased from Ca-Cycleworks, I specified that my bike was a 98 900 with W heads, had on open air box with K&N filter, ExactFit coils, and really free-flowing slip-ons. I was under the assumption Cycleworks would take into account the details I gave them and jet my carbs with those details in mind. Too much to ask I guess.

I think you're missing the point. There's no possible way he could get it spot on. The fact that it ran with the wrong plugs is a testament to how close he actually has it. Try it with the correct plugs and see how it is. The poor running has little to do with the carbs with your recent discovery of no spark.

Is the pickup that's 'close'...looks like it's actually touching in the pic...the one that has the black/yellow wires?

[ChrisK]

Try it with the correct plugs and see how it is. The poor running has little to do with the carbs with your recent discovery of no spark.

Is the pickup that's 'close'...looks like it's actually touching in the pic...the one that has the black/yellow wires?

I know that the carbs don't have anything to do with this issue, I was just commenting on it because it was brought up.

I don't know with 100% certainty which pickup had the black/yellow wires. I just kind of assumed that the pickup that was set a ways back was the one with the black/yellow, but I see now that was wrong to assume. Again, I was in a hurry because I was doing it over my lunch.

So does this process sound right:

1) Check which pickup has the black/yellow wires
2) Test the resistance across that pickup
3) If good, find/replace faulty area in the wire.
4) If bad, order new pickup.
5) When new pickup comes in, install and set the proper air gap for both pickups.

Is it necessary to replace both, instead of just one? I see some are rated at different resistances.

[Howie]

O L is not zero resistance, it is infinite resistance, in other words, open circuit.  Could be a wire, could be the winding.  Yep, most likely place for a break would be where dp said, since the wire should be stronger than the insulation a tug might reveal the break.  The resistance must be correct for the ignition modules and coils to supply proper spark. in other words 100 ohms + 5%.  Yes, your .6 is close enough, could be meter error. Make sure the static timing is correct too.  There should be two circles on the flywheel that line up with lines on the pick ups.  Loosen and move the bracket until they line up.  I don't see lines on your pick ups, but they should be in the center.  As a final check, below 1500-1700 rpm is 6^o, above 1700 RPM is 32⁰.  You will need to find a now pretty much obsolete tool known as a timing light.  First O viewed through the inspection timing window is 0^o, second 6, third 32.

Jetting carbs if your base settings and ignition is not right cannot be done correctly. 

[Speeddog]

Forward pickup is the black/yellow, aft is red/white.

The mounting plate has that printed on it like this:

               B                 W
      <----                       ---->
               Y                 R

Setting the 'timing' of the triggers:




Setting the 'gap' of the triggers:

[Howie]

A picture is worth a thousand words

[ChrisK]

Then the red/white was connected to the pickup that was really far away from the flywheel lump.

So I'll take a close look at the forward pickup and it's black/yellow wires and hopefully find a break in the wires. If not, I'll replace the pickup and proceed to set timing and gap as in the manual.

Can one of you gurus comment on my question about whether or not I should replace both pickups or just the faulty one?

Thank you for your help everyone, truly a cool place, isn't it?

[Howie]

Then the red/white was connected to the pickup that was really far away from the flywheel lump.

So I'll take a close look at the forward pickup and it's black/yellow wires and hopefully find a break in the wires. If not, I'll replace the pickup and proceed to set timing and gap as in the manual.

Can one of you gurus comment on my question about whether or not I should replace both pickups or just the faulty one?

Thank you for your help everyone, truly a cool place, isn't it?

Comment with total certainty? No.  Being conservative, hating breakdowns and do-overs plus, though not rich but not poor either I would (and did) replace both.   If you choose to replace both check out the price of the OEM pick ups.

[koko64]

+1
I replaced both because removing the timing case shits me.

[ChrisK]

Comment with total certainty? No.  Being conservative, hating breakdowns and do-overs plus, though not rich but not poor either I would (and did) replace both.   If you choose to replace both check out the price of the OEM pick ups.

Thanks for being honest, that advice sounds good to me.

[ChrisK]

$242 for the set from Ducati. $150 for the set from Rick's. I think I'll go with Rick's.

Rick's won't come with the OEM wiring and plug, but I don't have a problem with doing some soldering if it's going to save me $92.