putting my bike together...please help me out along the way..

[bond0087]

Those wires go between the coils and the coil mounts or the coil mount screws. The coils mount on either ends with screws, and that wire goes between the screw head and the coil mount.  If that doesn't make sense I can try to dig up a picture.

Edit: here's a picture. The wires are kind of hard to see because I put green masking tape labels on all the ignition wiring, but the end of it is circled.

[Rudemouthsky]

Shweet, thanks dude. What kind of bike/year and model Monster do you have?

[koko64]

How about that eh. Never seen them before on any other carbed 900s.

[bond0087]

Shweet, thanks dude. What kind of bike/year and model Monster do you have?

I've got a 2000 M750.

How about that eh. Never seen them before on any other carbed 900s.

The seemingly random differences between some of these early(ish) Monsters always amazes me. It's also possible that these were in a different orientation or position with the stock airbox, where you wouldn't see it so clearly. They could have been between the coil and the bracket on the bottom, for instance, and the black wire would have blended in pretty well with the airbox.

[koko64]

Never seen the wires and Ive removed airboxes on at least 7 900 belt drive models. I dont work on many Ducatis.
I wonder how many times Brad has seen those extra wires? He would have worked on hundreds of those models over the years.

[Rudemouthsky]

I've got a 2000 M750.

The seemingly random differences between some of these early(ish) Monsters always amazes me. It's also possible that these were in a different orientation or position with the stock airbox, where you wouldn't see it so clearly. They could have been between the coil and the bracket on the bottom, for instance, and the black wire would have blended in pretty well with the airbox.

That's the model year wiring harness I'm using for my build. I've found that, out of all the usual Ducati irregularities, this loom is the strangest of all. It's literally half 2001, half 99<. And the parts diagram is completely incorrect for it. The relays and fusebox are the same as 01, grounding and hot pigtails are like that of the 90's Monsters, and we've just figured out the engine wiring is unique to that year only as well. Interesting.

[Rudemouthsky]

So, here's another riddle...

Parts diagram shows 1 locknut on the front motor mount bolt (2000 M600 frame) and one lock washer on the other motor mount just...floating there, no nut. Parts breakdown only calls for this one nut which requires a 17mm socket, and it must be a damn thin wall because I can't even fit a 12mm socket in that frame boss. The frame is threaded for both motor mount bolts, but I can't properly torque either one as they just continue to spin. What gives? Dafuq kind of socket do I need to fit in there? And is loctite recommended for these bolts?

[Howie]

This may help you. 

http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html

Also, does your engine have through holes for the mounting bolts?

[Rudemouthsky]

This may help you. 

http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html

I've looked at the Nichols bolts...not keen on drilling my frame.

Also, does your engine have through holes for the mounting bolts?

...come again?

[Howie]

Some of the older engines used a bolt on either side for the front mount instead of a through bolt.  My link to the Nichols bolt link was to help you understand the different designs.  People do say you will feel the difference with the Nichols bolts though.  My memory says this only applies to Pantah 600s and 750s, but I don't remember for sure.  I can see what size the hex is on my old bolts, but mine are 12mm.

[Rudemouthsky]

Some of the older engines used a bolt on either side for the front mount instead of a through bolt.  My link to the Nichols bolt link was to help you understand the different designs.  People do say you will feel the difference with the Nichols bolts though.  My memory says this only applies to Pantah 600s and 750s, but I don't remember for sure.  I can see what size the hex is on my old bolts, but mine are 12mm.

Ah, gotcha. Yes, my motor has through bolts. And the ever unreliable parts pdf for my frame also shows 2 long through bolts.

Taking a second look I can see you're correct...the OE nut is a flange style with the locking inner ring, and I was trying to fit a fat nylock in there. I do have 10mm flange nuts tho, I'll give one a shot today. I don't think there's room for a washer to help compensate for the lack of a locking feature, but my flange nuts are serrated to improve the grip, and I imagine a dab of loctite should keep it copacetic.

The floating spring washer in the diagram is just silly. I guess I'm supposed to drape it on the end of the MM bolt that threads into the frame and it'll magically do something other than rattle around behind my frame plug.

[Howie]

My bolt is 14 mm and nut 15mm.  Shop manual says use grease, though I think loctite (blue) might not be a bad idea.  Do re torque those bolts after a few hundred miles and again later.  Thev spring washer goes under the hex on the rear bolt.

Just realized, when it comes to sticking different frames chances are Duck-Stew has already been there.

[koko64]

Hows it going?

[Rudemouthsky]

Those wires go between the coils and the coil mounts or the coil mount screws. The coils mount on either ends with screws, and that wire goes between the screw head and the coil mount.  If that doesn't make sense I can try to dig up a picture.

Edit: here's a picture. The wires are kind of hard to see because I put green masking tape labels on all the ignition wiring, but the end of it is circled.

Looks like your filters could use a good cleaning/re-oiling. Sorry, my OCD...

Hows it going?

I had to get out of the garage yesterday. Everything was pissing me off, most especially my Motowheels battery box. Even tho I got the whole thing installed after much work with a file, drill, and dremel, couldn't get the damn thing back together again after taking it apart to re-do the solenoid wiring. The box grinds and rubs my upper valve cover and interferes with my throttle cable. And for the life of me I can't figure out how the little solenoid bracket fits back under there. Might just relocate it before I lose my mind.

I'm picking up my speedometer bracket and exhaust today, so that's good news.

[koko64]

Looking forward to your ride impressions.

I really like the look of those battery boxes. On the oem airbox/battery box, you have to dremel a bit of a gap where the FCR cables run.