S2R 1000 Clutch Done For

[Kabulpostie]

Hey All,
When a clutch pack is done for does it happen all at once? My situation is this: Was riding on freeway in heavy rain, opened throttle to pass and clutch slipped. Didn't ride until yesterday. Pretty slow ride no faster than 60 mph. About 35 mi? By the time I got home I was limping in not able to go past 3K RPM. That's seems sudden to me..It's probably due, as it has 12k+ miles and a track day. Is there anyway to extend it's life? I just had to drop a bunch of cash on my KTM (Fuel pump assembly) and there is no way I can afford clutch pack..unless there is some economical one out there somewhere.
Any info would be much appreciated

[koko64]

You had a look inside? Best be sure of whats gojng on in there.
The cheapest way is to buy used low mileage friction plates and scuff up and clean the steel driven plates. Thats what I do. Steel driven plates push up shipping costs if you dont need them. Used oem friction plates come up now and then. Some dealers used to sell  individual plates, but I dont know if thats still the csse.

[Kabulpostie]

Well, now you are making me nervous..what else could be going on? I haven't taken it apart as I dont have money or parts yet..It's end up like other motorcycle projects, taken apart and stuff lost lol

[Howie]

First thing I would check for is free play at the clutch lever.  You need 1-1.5mm play or the clutch can slip.  Then you need to do what Koko64 said, inspect.  If your steels are not blue, scored or warped they can be scuffed up and reused.  The friction plates need to be at least 2.8 mm. thick.  If they measure up, just scuff them up a bit.  Do keep the parts in ordeer.  This assumes stock parts.  Stack height would need to be measured if the plates are after market.  Some one else will need to supply that measurement. 

[NAKID]

Hey All,
When a clutch pack is done for does it happen all at once? My situation is this: Was riding on freeway in heavy rain, opened throttle to pass and clutch slipped. Didn't ride until yesterday. Pretty slow ride no faster than 60 mph. About 35 mi? By the time I got home I was limping in not able to go past 3K RPM. That's seems sudden to me..It's probably due, as it has 12k+ miles and a track day. Is there anyway to extend it's life? I just had to drop a bunch of cash on my KTM (Fuel pump assembly) and there is no way I can afford clutch pack..unless there is some economical one out there somewhere.
Any info would be much appreciated

My S2R1000's clutch was still doing just fine at almost 40K miles...

[Speeddog]

My S4 clutch was not slipping at 28k, but was getting grabby and noisy due to lots of wear on the tabs and basket.

You need to open it up and see what's going on.

[koko64]

So, how did you go?

[Kabulpostie]

Sorry for not getting on this, life got in the way:) haven't touched it yet, maybe this weekend. I'm sure I'll freak out about something and post pics

[koko64]

 

[Kabulpostie]

All right, got a wild hair last night and took out the clutch pack. I can't tell much, but I'm posting some pics. It did look like there was a pretty big gap between the teeth and basket. I ordered a 48 tooth basket and clutch pack. I think Ill need one more part, but I'm not sure what it's called. On one pick you can sort of see a washer/gasket that was on the shaft. It's damaged so I figure a good idea to replace. Anyone have any handy tricks or pitfalls to look out for when removing the basket?

edit: Do I need to remove the pushrod? and if so why?

DSCN1269 by cam2hook, on Flickr

DSCN1265 by cam2hook, on Flickr

DSCN1251 by cam2hook, on Flickr

DSCN1241 by cam2hook, on Flickr

[koko64]

How much meat on those Barnett friction plates? That will determine the slipping.The tab gap makes noise mostly but many clutches that make a racket still work well, but I've seen bigger gaps than that! A large tab gap does chew the basket however. Remove the push rod to not bend it while working. I would replace that seal now its out.
The clutch is pretty beat up by the elements, so give the area a good clean. If the weather is like that where you live then I would run a closed cover, but that's me.
Anyway, you have new parts ordered.

Use correct tools to brace the clutch while undoing the nut rather than bodgy methods which can cause damage. A good rattle gun works wonders.

[Kabulpostie]

I don't know about how much meat is left, but given the situation I had (slipping at anything over 3k revs) wouldn't that indicate that they are done either through wear or contamination?

The rod just slid out with no effort. Any idea what the seal is called? Push Rod seal?

[Speeddog]

Clutch pushrod seal.

The right end of the pushrod should be nice and smooth.
Especially that part of it that the seal and needle bearing run on.

[Kabulpostie]

Here are some pics of the pushrod. There's nothing that stands out to me, but then again I'm not sure what it should look like The end that has the two gaskets has oil on it, which I'm guessing is desirable?

DSCN1272 by cam2hook, on Flickr

DSCN1272 by cam2hook, on Flickr


DSCN1270 by cam2hook, on Flickr

[koko64]

Looks ok to me on my phone screen. Interested in hearing how the 48 tooth kit goes.