DIY Baffled Crankcase Breather?

[stolenheartdealer]

So I'm a tad confused... I've got a 2000 900ie that came with a crankcase breather.  I just did an oil change proper with some tasty motul red liquid I thought my baby would love but all she does is spit up or her back end, through my fancy looking k&n breather on a stock reed valve.

I'm not over filled in fact right now I'm at half way between max and low lines and I've triple checked I'm plumb and level.  I've done some reading and they say if you track your bike and you want to squuuuuuuueeeeze a couple more horsies in go reedless which sounds like a bad idea for me because I can't keep my rpms down (a problem I can't fix, I've just gotta) and with my k&n bling I think my rear tire would get nice and slippy, as it is some oil is making it onto my rear tire and burning up on the exhaust during my spirited drives. Buying another aftermarket reed valve will just get me the same result because there's no way for the oil that's spitting up and out to drain back past the reed.  Or is there supposed to be and mine's defective? Or maybe the velocity of the oil spatter just shoots it right up into the filter element to give my engine that newborn baby sheen and if my valve does or doesn't have a drain back is inconsequential.

So all that said, I think I have 3 possibilities:

1. Back to stock, whatever that is.
2. Run some hose into the seat to move the filter further away from the engine.  Would this hose just fill up with oil since it would be on top of the reed valve and if so I imagine this solution would only work with a reedless "valve".
3. Is there such a thing as a baffled "valve" similar to an oil catch can?  Is it possible to core the stock valve and make it baffled or modify an aftermarket reedless to accept a DIY solution.  Something that would slow down and stop the oil from reaching the filter element and allow air to pass and oil to drain back.  Could have a reed valve on top or not.  Could be simple like 2 or 3 plates with a cut out on the side that is flipped position for the next plate in the sequence so the air and oil had to make an "S" curve to get out, oil would hit the walls and drop and air would push through.  Could be two plates "Swiss Cheezed" with some steel wool or something similar that wouldn't rust.

[koko64]

The oem breather has a valve and runs a hose to a breather box/oil separator box under the seat. From there another hose runs to the airbox. I would run the complete oem set up or the oem set up with a small K&N filter off the breather box and eliminate the hose to the airbox (plugging the airbox hole). There are good quality breathers with a valve available from our sponsors.

[stolenheartdealer]

The oem breather has a valve and runs a hose to a breather box/oil separator box under the seat. From there another hose runs to the airbox. I would run the complete oem set up or the oem set up with a small K&N filter off the breather box and eliminate the hose to the airbox (plugging the airbox hole). There are good quality breathers with a valve available from our sponsors.

So essentially there is some sort of baffled catch can style action going on in that oem breather box that my previous owner tossed in the bin?  Air goes back to the airbox and

Sorry, I screwed up typing this... Continued:

The oil goes back down the tube, presumably through the reed valve?

[S21FOLGORE]

The oil goes back down the tube, presumably through the reed valve?

Yes, the oil goes back through the drain hole on the crankcase breather valve.



So, basically, your bike looks like this. Right?


Tiny K&N filter sitting on top of the stock breather valve.

A lot of people do this just for the look.

'Cause it looks trick.
It costs very little.
It's easy to do.
Somehow, some people believe "removing emission control stuff = performance gain".

Well, you don't gain anything by doing this mod.
In fact, you loose a bit of performance, and, what you'll get is the possibility of oil on the rear tire.

The best solution for your situation is to return to the stock set up.
You will need the stock oil separator box, stock hose(s)( from the crankcase breather to the separator box, from the separator box to air cleaner box), which are may or may not be  easy to come by.
(If your bike came with the stock parts, put them back on.)

The second best is, to get oil catch tank (you can either buy, or build your own) mounted as high and far back as possible, run the hose back to the air cleaner box (or, mount the K&N filter on the catch tank.)

I also suggest to forget about what you read about race / track bike set up.
Unless, of course, you actually race / track your monster.

Simply put, you can not have the same set up as used on race / track prepped superbike, on Monster.

"Corsa box" on race set up superbike

Where do you have the space for this huge box on Monster's tail section?

Stock separator box on 05 S4R : really small, compare to the size of the box in the photo above


Stock separator box is mounted here (on S*R bikes)


Notice separator box has two hose mounts?
One connects to crankcase breather valve (1), another one goes to air cleaner box(2).


This is hose(2)


Goes into the air cleaner box


Make sure the hole in the air cleaner box is plugged. If the hose is still attached to the air box, it should be closed (plugged) at the end of the hose.

Get some vinyl tubing,


run the hose all the way to the tail section, mount the oil catch tank.

[stolenheartdealer]

Yes, the oil goes back through the drain hole on the crankcase breather valve.



So, basically, your bike looks like this. Right?


Tiny K&N filter sitting on top of the stock breather valve.

A lot of people do this just for the look.

'Cause it looks trick.
It costs very little.
It's easy to do.
Somehow, some people believe "removing emission control stuff = performance gain".

Well, you don't gain anything by doing this mod.
In fact, you loose a bit of performance, and gain the possibility of oil on the rear tire.

The best solution for your situation is to return to the stock set up.
You will need the stock oil separator box, stock hose(s)( from the crankcase breather to the separator box, from the box to air cleaner box), which are may or may not be  easy to come by.
(If your bike came with the stock parts, put them back on.)

The second best is, to get oil catch tank (you can either buy, or build your own) mounted as high and far back as possible, run the hose back to the air cleaner box (or, mount the K&N filter on the catch tank.)

I also suggest to forget about what you read about race / track bike set up.
Unless, of course, you actually race / track your monster.

Simply put, you can not have the same set up as race / track used superbike on Monster.

"Corsa box" on race set up superbike

Where do you have the space for this huge box on Monster's tail section?

Stock separator box on 05 S4R : really small, compare to the size of the box in the photo above


Stock separator box is mounted here (on S*R bikes)


Notice separator box has two hose mounts?
One connects to crankcase breather valve (1), another one goes to air cleaner box(2).


This is hose(2)


Goes into the air cleaner box


Make sure the hole in the air cleaner box is plugged. If the hose is still attached to the air box, it should be closed (plugged) at the end of the hose.

Get some vinyl tubing,


run the hose all the way to the tail section, mount the oil catch tank.

THANK YOU!

I think I will look for an aftermarket bike catch can and do my best to hide it somewhere in the trail with the k&n mounted on it.  Unfortunately I didn't get any of the stock parts.  I read the race stuff on a great page about the different options available for this "delete" but I couldn't understand how removing the reed might give performance gains wouldn't also put a ton of oil on the rear tire until now, now one fits a reedless to a filter, the all go to their respective stock boxes.  I'll look into getting an s2r/s4r box on eBay too since it would be less work to hide.