Double swing arm monster/non spool and pit-bull tand, rod thru wheel axle??

[Qomomoko]

Hey guys,

so a 9/16" thick rod, 20 " long would allow use of the pit-bull stand in a sturdy way.

Am I missing something? seems pretty simple

[Howie]

Works unless you need to remove the rear wheel.

[Qomomoko]

LOL, I missed the obvious..

yeah.... plan on doing new chain and sprockets.. so no go..

dang it.!!!

Maybe pit-bull has new supports that are wider and give better support to my bike

been waiting forever from Bursig USA to provide me with an adapter plate for this bike, otherwise I have  bursig stand that is useless......

[Howie]

If you want the security, raise the rear by your new method.  Then you can run a steel rod through the swing arm pivot and support the bike on jack stands.

[ducpainter]

You should be able to purchase the top supports for your non spooled swing arm from Pit-Bull...

https://www.pit-bull.com/motorcycle-apparel-accessories/rear-stand-supports

[Qomomoko]

I have top supports but they dont feel like a solid connections to the swing arm lol.
I'll give it a try again.

Questions, is my cush drive to loose with the movement seen in the video below?
Also, I could not find the specs as to which cush pins should be torqued. I plan on only removing and replacing the sprocket and then torquing to 46 Nm/ 34 #...

[Qomomoko]

Wont get to finish today, turns out I need to cut 1 or 2 links of the chain; its too long.

What do you guys think??
an get proper chain tension cutting 2 links and have a tons ( 80%) room to tighten over time. If cut only one.. closer to 70% tension used and maybe 1 inch longer wheel base...

Jeje , getting probably to to picky..

[stopintime]

If I'm not mistaken.... that chain is a little too tight (?)

Anyway - the chain won't sit where it now does. Either one tooth in or out for the master link to be fitted 

[ducpainter]

Cush drive is fine. Play in that direction doesn't matter when installed.

Your chain is too tight the way you have it there. Also, there's no reason to cut the chain to put the axle all the way forward in the adjusters.

I'd probably use that chain as is.

[Howie]

What model bike and what size sprockets?  From the video I agree with dp.  On the cush drives too.

[Qomomoko]

2002 Monster S4.
15 front / 41 rear.

I also realized before getting read for the night shift and having to leave the chain adjustment/ cutting undone, that the "adjuster screws " for my bike done have lock nut to prevent vibration from moving it, the torque is pretty much hand tight, 8 Nm. Besides the axle being tighten, dont really see how then tension "adjuster screws" keep the axle moving out... maybe that is not the job of the "adjuster screw" I thought the adjuster screw had a more substantial role in maintaining axle location/sliding front/back.

[ducpainter]

The only function of the adjuster screw is to move the axle back, or allow it to slide forward. It doesn't hold the axle in place.

The torque on the axle nuts holds the axle in place.

[Howie]

Hopefully Speeddog corrects me if I am incorrect, but I think you want the stock 100 link length.  Wheelbase will be a little shorter.

Torque on the axle is 83Nm.  8Nmfor the adjuster screws, snug and a little more with a short wrench works for me. 

[Speeddog]

My '02 S4 was 15/37 off the showroom floor, so 15/41 would be +2 links from OEM. <Dodgy math corrected>

For discussion;
If we take 1% as a maximum allowable 'stretch', and 100 links at 5/8" pitch, that gives an increase in chain length of 0.625".
The axle would move half of that to restore the same tension, so 0.312", ~8mm.

I cut the chain length to fit.
I try to bias the axle position rearward as Monsters like more weight on the front wheel.

[Qomomoko]

Awesome info guys, I surely will try to contribute my 2 cents.

100 I am certain wont fit, will try it and see ( first I better go to bed for grave yard shift)
104 links I tried and seemed too loose, even with chain full tension; the slack was over 1.5 inches for sure ( will check it again and video it   )

I believe 102 links (including the master link will be the magic number)
I was ready to cut and ride tonight to work but am hesitant there are parts missing based on 02 S4 manual from manual lib website. I am missing parts #18 and #19. It must act like a backing nut on other adjusting screws. It could also be different designs of sliding shoes but I am certain the parts are to be there as I can see threads on the forward part of the sliding shoe.

Been riding without those parts for at least 2 years and a track day!! LOL kind of funny but if the parts are to be there, and even worse were lost by  either of the 3 shops I take the bike to, it would be disappointing ( 2 of them I still trust and enjoy going to)


Here is part proof of the above 
Been reading the forum again and so impressed by contribution so many members make.