SS Bolts = THE BOMB

Started by Howley, July 28, 2008, 05:56:56 AM

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Capo

Quote from: jesse370 on November 03, 2008, 07:56:51 PM
OOOOOOOOR a slipper.....

I took 6 lbs of rotating mass off the crank... [evil]

That would be the countershaft not the crankshaft.


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madalf71

Hi All.

Capo Re-Sodium Chloride.
Chlorine and 304/306 don't go well, and will degrade rapidly at temps above 50DegC.

My 2 cents worth.

Cheers all

Madalf

DucHead

Quote from: madalf71 on November 04, 2008, 03:04:10 AM
Hi All.

Capo Re-Sodium Chloride.
Chlorine and 304/306 don't go well, and will degrade rapidly at temps above 50DegC.

My 2 cents worth.

Cheers all

Madalf


There's a big difference between chlorine and chloride.  Which do you mean?
'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"

madalf71

Opps, should of been Chlorides.

Privateer

sorry to dig up a kind of old thread...

I've been replacing my hardware with the SS kits from monsterparts.. Is there a guideline for which bolts should get ant seize? 
Handlebar clamp is the one I'm mostly wondering about right now.
Engine covers?


Thanks
Andy
My fast lap is your sighting lap.

Capo

Apply antisieze to all bolts except those that need loctite (such as the rotor bolts).
Antisieze does not dry out over time and allow the fatenerto sieze as stated by He Man.


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Gimpy

Quote from: Capo on January 23, 2009, 10:30:14 AM
Apply antisieze to all bolts except those that need loctite (such as the rotor bolts).
Antisieze does not dry out over time and allow the fatenerto sieze as stated by He Man.

This is what I do.  But.............. I would say that the only time that you need anti seize is when you are putting SS hardware into a dissimilar metal. (AKA Aluminum) 

Capo

The use of antisieze on dissimilar metals, it primarily to prevent galvanic corrosion.
Where the metals are the same especially with stainless steel, the antisieze prevents galling.


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