This was one of the most useful threads of the tech section in the old DML. I don't know if it will be lost there so
I'm starting it over here. Don't have any parts to list but I hope the group will start adding them here.
kawasaki key
starts my kawasaki so I don't need any expensive ducati parts :e:v
Well.... :e:v. I read someplace that the s2r 800 marzocchi fork seals are very expensive. Apparently, you can use Suzuki GSXR Fork Seals..........about $11.00 each versus the $140 per side someone was quoted .
Maybe someone can verify this for me?
A bit of info from DUCATI OWNERS CLUB OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA on headlight replacement parts. The pieces can also be found at a BMW dealership (R60 -R100 Boxers) or from a Bosch electrical supplier. I haven't any personal experience with this but apparently Spidey has so a PM to him might be in order.
Headlight rim: BMW p/n 63121356402
Glass Lens: BMW p/n 63121358147 Bosch p/n 1305604904
Reflector Assy: BMW p/n 63121355396 Bosch p/n 1305304903
Quote from: PizzaMonster on May 07, 2008, 07:30:17 PM
Well.... :e:v. I read someplace that the s2r 800 marzocchi fork seals are very expensive. Apparently, you can use Suzuki GSXR Fork Seals..........about $11.00 each versus the $140 per side someone was quoted .
Maybe someone can verify this for me?
I would think the GSXR seals would work since they're the same dimensions.
You can get All Balls fork seals for around $50 per set, too.
I carry them if anyone needs em.
borrowed from TOB's tech section... :)
things like NAPA's fuel filter P/N- 3032
or these BMW headlight bits (which is what prompted my search):
Headlamp LENS with gasket , for current MONSTERS........ BMW part # 63121358147 $29.00 !!
Reflector BMW part #63121355396 $103.00
The much sought after Buell tail light lens: Part # Y0401A.D
This is the plastic lens only and should cost $10-15 US, available or orderable at every Harley Davidson dealer. It's the exact same shape as the Ducati part, from the same manufacturer, cheaper than the Ducati part, and has a clear window on the bottom. That's a nice feature that lights your plate well if you've done a tail chop.
Scott
Few of the older Monsters have regulator/rectifier issues. Sometime the blame palced is on the battery when its ussually the rectifier/regulator.
Symptons are battery doesn't charge. Hard to start the bike. Constantly need to use a plug in charger etc. Also you can get starter motors, brushes & solenoids from several on-line vendors.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
This is an EXAMPLE, of what is out in the market. Much cheaper than a genuine Ducati part. A google search will also reveal plenty of other options. - Chris
Quote from: sydmonster on May 14, 2008, 07:26:32 PM
Few of the older Monsters have regulator/rectifier issues. Sometime the blame palced is on the battery when its ussually the rectifier/regulator.
Symptons are battery doesn't charge. Hard to start the bike. Constantly need to use a plug in charger etc. Also you can get starter motors, brushes & solenoids from several on-line vendors.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
This is an EXAMPLE, of what is out in the market. Much cheaper than a genuine Ducati part. A google search will also reveal plenty of other options. - Chris
I have a ricks regulator on my Monster.
Works great.
Here's a reusable tip if you're careful:
Suppose you oil-soak your dry-clutch plates and want to re-new them. Someone learned this while he was converting his perfectly-good 750 to a dry-clutch.
Soak the plates in gasoline and then CAREFULLY set them on fire letting the flame pull the oil out of the friction material. Let them cool and re-install! This trick will also work for other oil-soaked friction material.
YMMV, and if you burn 415 acres or your home to the ground....I can't be held liable as I'll be in Aruba.
I looked at the old site but didn't see a replacement for the OEM belts for newer 2v bikes.
Anyone have a cheeper option? 2005 S2R
Brake light switch.....
Quote from: 64duc on May 18, 2008, 09:37:58 AM
Radio Shack keeps the switch in stock in all their stores for $1.99 plus tax.
The part number is 275-016A. SPDT Submini lever switch. EDIT: Or 275-0016 depending on which side of the packet you're looking at. Uh?
From the "other" site.
This isn't necessarily a cheaper alternative, but if you break a shifter the SuperSport shifters and S*R shifters will work with Monsters and vice-versa. They're not perfect fits, but sometimes you can't find the right one and one of these will work without a problem or any major mods.
Also, I posted a "how to" on "how to" repair the shifter when broken, in the "how to" section...
Replacements that will work for the Safety Relay on older monsters are:
Radio shack 900-2391
Seimans V203073
Bosch 0 332 207 307
Napa AR 634
Car Quest RY 620
Borg Warner R3223
Orman 68H-UA-0070003
Mopar 56006846
I can only confirm that the Borg Warner relay works. Had issues last year and replaced it with the borg warner one and haven't had a problem since. The others are all supposed to work as well but I have no FHE.
I ordered fork seals for my 97 m750 showa non-adjustable forks from the dealer for $25 each.
The parts I got were not the right ones.
Luckily i found out that hondas and bimmers use the same fork seal.
The honda kit was $22 each. including the dust cover.
Fork seal and dust cap kit Honda part number 51490-MN8-305
BMW FORK SEAL KIT FOR A GS: # 31 42 2 312 836
Seal dimensions: 54mm OD, 41mm ID, 11mm thick.
Brimbo Break Levers and Parts:
I copied this from another thread; it is should be here .... USA and Australian Refrences.
If you can buy direct from Brimbo it be less than Ducati dealership prices.
Re: snapped brake lever
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
phew. glad you told me.
so one more like this one?
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=110.2706.44
or this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ducati-Brake-Lever-916-996-998-Monster-S4R-Multistrada_W0QQitemZ380032923642QQihZ025QQcategoryZ29705QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or maybe even this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DUCATI-BRAKE-CLUTCH-LEVER-748-900-916-SS-MONSTER_W0QQitemZ290236584689QQihZ019QQcategoryZ102691QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Hey Mostro, where are you at?
In Sydney, go to Gowanloch's, they would have them.
Normal levers without the dial $35 from memory. Dial levers I think are around $75.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
An early reply mentioned Yoyodyne. Not so good for you; the shipping would kill the deal.
But Fred's a good source 'cause he's a Brembo dealer. So the message is, you can get a Brembo lever from a Brembo dealer for much less than you can get the same Brembo lever from a Ducati dealer (well, unless the Ducati dealer is sourcing them outside the Ducati
Quote from: DuciD03 on June 09, 2008, 04:51:26 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
phew. glad you told me.
so one more like this one?
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=110.2706.44
or this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ducati-Brake-Lever-916-996-998-Monster-S4R-Multistrada_W0QQitemZ380032923642QQihZ025QQcategoryZ29705QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or maybe even this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DUCATI-BRAKE-CLUTCH-LEVER-748-900-916-SS-MONSTER_W0QQitemZ290236584689QQihZ019QQcategoryZ102691QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
WOW! THOSE THINGS ARE EXPENSIVE!!! Might as well buy CRGs... Looks like I'll have to get those manufactured too...
Cheap K&N filter source
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TR40%2D1470
$10.28 each and shipping is cheap in quantity.
Handguards for a Multistrada are $135ish from DP, but only $90 from KTM. ;)
If you want to replace your mirrors with anything else that is not from Ducati, you will need to go to your closest Yamaha dealer and get a Yamaha mirror adaptor kit. It converts the 10mm left hand thread on the left mirror to a 10mm right hand thread. It also raises the right mirror to match the left mirror. It looks like this.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn3/DrFunkyMD/MRYADAP1010.jpg)
wheel bearings for 25mm axles 6005-2RS (25 x 47 x 12)
Lifted from posts/TOB. May fit other models, not sure about that.
M750: Fuel filter - Autozone 3047
M750: Oil filter - Fram 6019
Even if you don't like the brands, you can at least cross reference at an auto parts store for your brand of choice ~
JM
Fuel pump for a 2006 620 - I was quoted $1,000. Luckily it was replaced under warranty.
Chris Kelly of Ca Cycleworks (www.ca-cycleworks.com) has fuel pumps that are direct OEM replacement fuel pumps for $149. "We've got dealer pricing so that shops can give out of warranty customers more realistic options."
I need to replace an injector on my 2001 900sie. I need a source. Way too expensive from Ducati.
Quote from: CTKurt on November 26, 2008, 10:51:00 AM
I need to replace an injector on my 2001 900sie. I need a source. Way too expensive from Ducati.
good question. problem is that the EFI system on that model is 100% marelli, so you are stuck buying a compatible injector (size, electrical) or changing the whole setup.
probably only option is to find a used one on ebay.
I found them cheap they are IWP043.
http://www.sciperformance.co.uk/onlineshopproducts_53353_58137.html (http://www.sciperformance.co.uk/onlineshopproducts_53353_58137.html)
Interchangeable Oil filters list
Thread started by meano_lover in Au 04 08; I was looking for a non OEM filter today and the auto store was totally confused; I would have gone to a Motorcycle store but there all closed on Sunday.
From MMacky
Here is the most complete list I could find. I last used the NAPA filter, and at that time it was made by Mann of Germany. Excellent quality for about $7.
US available: (exact)
K & N KN-153
Perf-Form DUC-1
Athena FFP011 (Ducati OEM)
Scott's Performance (permanent washable replacement)
US available: (near exact, fits fine. length may vary)
Fram PH6074 (was PH2839, PH2864A)
Purolator ML16829C (was FC 103 or OC 5)
AC Delco FX0011 (was X4A)
Motorcraft EFL 47
NAPA: 1352 (1352NAPA and 551352 on the box)
Non US:
Champion H101
Cooper Z64
Powertrain FL125
Fiaam FT4654, FT 4847 or PA7059
Purflux LS187
Halfords HOF216
Tecafilter Ref OC5
Technocar R12, R72, R434
Knecht OC 5 (equivalent to Ducati #065149960 and #090549960)
TJ FB2094
Mann & H W712/9, W712/11
Unipart GFE 201
Good cross reference list I ran across a long time ago - glad I kept it now.
Grumby
AC Delco FX0011 (was X4A)
Motorcraft EFL 47
Champion H101
NAPA: 1352 (1352NAPA and 551352 on the box)
Cooper Z64
Powertrain FL125
Fiaam FT4654, FT 4847 or PA7059
Purflux LS187
Fram PH6074 (was PH2839, PH2864A)
Purolator ML16829C (was FC 103 or OC 5)
Halfords HOF216
Tecafilter Ref OC5
K & N KN-153
Technocar R12, R72, R434
Knecht OC 5 (equivalent to Ducati #065149960 and #090549960) TJ FB2094
Mann & H W712/9, W712/11
Unipart GFE 201
Desmo Demon
I switched to using the K&N simply for the welded nut on the end of it. It makes removal sooooo easy.
Here's an interesting tidbit......if you are in a crunch and on a trip somewhere and NEED a filter but cannot find one, go to the local Harley-Davidson dealer.......yes, the local Harley dealer......There are certain mid-80's Harleys that use similar filters. I use the K&N 153 on my '85 FXEF, also.
(So, if you want a chrome filter for your Duc, you can use K&N 172C)
The differences are that the KN-153 has a 1.45 psi higher pressure relief valve and is 0.209" (6mm) longer than the KN-172C. The KN-172C also does not have an anti drain back valve (so an OEM Harley filter should have similar specs to the KN-172C). The last time I bought a filter from the HD dealer, the black one was $5-$6. I think the old 100k+ mile engine can use the higher pressure that the KN-153 supplies, though
KN-153 specs...
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 3.331 in (85 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3.059 in (78 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: M16 x 1.5
PSI Relief Valve: 15.08
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Weight: 0.7 lb (0.3 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.5 in (89 mm)
KN-172C specs...
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 3.122 in (79 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3.059 in (78 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: M16 x 1.5
PSI Relief Valve: 13.63
Anti Drain Back Valve: No
Style: Canister
Finish: Chrome
Weight: 0.6 lb (0.3 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Quote from: ducvet on May 07, 2008, 06:54:35 PM
kawasaki key
starts my kawasaki so I don't need any expensive ducati parts :e:v
Do you know which Kawasaki key to use? I stopped by the Kawasaki dealer and the person said there are 4 different types.
Quote from: greenohawk69 on December 31, 2008, 09:29:24 AM
Do you know which Kawasaki key to use? I stopped by the Kawasaki dealer and the person said there are 4 different types.
Psst....I think that was a joke.... ;)
No joke, there is a Kaw, Alfa and Fiat blank that will work. A real lock smith should be able to hook you up.
Quote from: PizzaMonster on May 07, 2008, 08:10:38 PM
A bit of info from DUCATI OWNERS CLUB OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA on headlight replacement parts. The pieces can also be found at a BMW dealership (R60 -R100 Boxers) or from a Bosch electrical supplier. I haven't any personal experience with this but apparently Spidey has so a PM to him might be in order.
Headlight rim: BMW p/n 63121356402
Glass Lens: BMW p/n 63121358147 Bosch p/n 1305604904
Reflector Assy: BMW p/n 63121355396 Bosch p/n 1305304903
I just did this due to stone cracking the lens after fitting lens protector. (Rode for 18 months without one with no problems)
Using the Ducati/Bosch p/n can only get full assembly - local bike shop Aus$600, Ducati dealer Aus$400.
Using BMW/Bosch p/n lens only, through local bike shop Aus $120.
Thanks to Spider's advice I took photos of the clip arrangement that hold the lens to the chrome rim before dismantling.
Works a treat. And I am not putting the lens protector back on either.
Yes I can confirm the fork seals from a GSXR will work .They are on my bike at the moment.I can also confirm that Ducati Seattle quoted me $140.00 for fork seals.I think they thought I just fell off the turnip wagon.I worked for Suzuki motorcycles 23 years ago, So i have quite a bit of experience with these 2 wheeled things called motorbikes.
Quote from: squidwood on March 14, 2009, 06:12:51 PM
Yes I can confirm the fork seals from a GSXR will work .They are on my bike at the moment.I can also confirm that Ducati Seattle quoted me $140.00 for fork seals.I think they thought I just fell off the turnip wagon.I worked for Suzuki motorcycles 23 years ago, So i have quite a bit of experience with these 2 wheeled things called motorbikes.
what models are you referring to?
Quote from: squidwood on March 14, 2009, 06:12:51 PM
... I can also confirm that Ducati Seattle quoted me $140.00 for fork seals.I think they thought I just fell off the turnip wagon...
Tho, I called them about the lense glass, and the person who helped me told me of a "rumor" that there was a BMW part out there that fits without having to buy the whole assembly that the dealers sell. Hope Dave doesn't mind me saying that, but it's that kind of thing that keeps customers coming back, even if they don't ALWAYS buy parts there.
Mild jack, but this thread helped me find that BMW part number... so not a COMPLETE jack.
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-49.html#products (http://www.mikesxs.net/products-49.html#products)
chain tool. make the beast with two backsing AWESOME! $20 does everything
Quote from: He Man on April 23, 2009, 08:53:40 PM
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-49.html#products (http://www.mikesxs.net/products-49.html#products)
chain tool. make the beast with two backsing AWESOME! $20 does everything
good link, does that remove press links or does it just rivet?
after you grind out out the mushroomed head on the rivet, you can use it to push the rivet out, ive read that this is the only case where it might be possile to snap the pin. after that you just adjust the tool to rivet and it'll know when to stop so you dont over rivet the chain and cause kinks. itll also press the plate in perfectly without curshing the oring.
Around $10 (includes shipping) from http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/vauxworld/index.asp (http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/vauxworld/index.asp) Vaux-word - Part number: 90534902 Gets you a perfect match to replace the Oil pressure Switch - great guy to work with! I Suggest using paypal - My bank rejected the charge cuz it was a low $ amount and from the UK.
Part is for the GM Opel - has a different BAR setting - but the UK guys use 'em all the time and haven't had any problem - I've put on over 500 Miles with no issues on mine.
You can buy the oil pressure switch at their eBay store also.
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Vaux-World-com-4-ALL-VAUXHALL-PARTS (http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Vaux-World-com-4-ALL-VAUXHALL-PARTS)
worldwide shipping
Quote from: clittelm750 on May 22, 2009, 08:07:35 AM
Around $10 (includes shipping) from http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/vauxworld/index.asp (http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/vauxworld/index.asp) Vaux-word - Part number: 90534902 Gets you a perfect match to replace the Oil pressure Switch - great guy to work with! I Suggest using paypal - My bank rejected the charge cuz it was a low $ amount and from the UK.
Part is for the GM Opel - has a different BAR setting - but the UK guys use 'em all the time and haven't had any problem - I've put on over 500 Miles with no issues on mine.
Do you know what Duc engines this fits? I have an older M750 (1998) that needs this part.
Quote from: akmnstr on May 26, 2009, 08:56:50 AM
Do you know what Duc engines this fits? I have an older M750 (1998) that needs this part.
Ducati code 539.4.030.1A and 539.4.019.1A
Ride Height adjusting link, I know you can get the rose joints from just about any bearing supplier, but how about the tie rod?
Quote from: clittelm750 on May 22, 2009, 08:07:35 AM
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Vaux-World-com-4-ALL-VAUXHALL-PARTS (http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Vaux-World-com-4-ALL-VAUXHALL-PARTS) Vaux-world - Part number: 90534902 Gets you a perfect match to replace the Oil pressure Switch - great guy to work with! I Suggest using paypal - My bank rejected the charge cuz it was a low $ amount and from the UK.
Part is for the GM Opel - has a different BAR setting - but the UK guys use 'em all the time and haven't had any problem - I've put on over 500 Miles with no issues on mine.
I received my oil pressure switch from Vaux-World today. It fit like an OEM part and it only cost me $12 with shipping to Ohio. Paid with Paypal on eBay.
The original Ducati part had been stamped "539.4.030.1A 0.3 - 0.6 bar" and the Opel part has been stamped "0.3 - 0.55 bar". So, it basically operates at the same pressures.
Anyone got a replacement for the S4R radiator? $1600 from the dealer - lists at 1900
I think I read somewhere that a ktm radiator will work.....can't recall much more than that tho. Maybe somebody else knows more...
Quote from: vwboomer on June 13, 2009, 09:18:32 PM
Anyone got a replacement for the S4R radiator? $1600 from the dealer - lists at 1900
there are tons of aftermarket radiator manufacturers if you don't need it to look the same.. is this a curved one?
I know Setrab makes good radiators in all sizes, but no curved ones.
funny, i just asked someone the other day if the s4...etc. radiator needed to be so big...or if it was just what ducati had available when they built the bike.
my guess is its that big because thats what the fared superbike needed. of course WTFDIK
Yep it's curved.
From looking at pics of units on ebay, it's similar to the superbike rads, but not identical.
Going to a radiator shop tomorrow to see what they have to say.
I found a simple cheap fix for the ugly holes left when you pull the stock mirrors.
Plastic push fasteners used for holding interior auto panels.
The ones I used came from Lowe's and are for a Nissan.
part# 881206
Push fasteners
variable depth
0.80 for a pair.
Quote from: Bun-bun on June 15, 2009, 03:14:36 PM
I found a simple cheap fix for the ugly holes left when you pull the stock mirrors.
Plastic push fasteners used for holding interior auto panels.
The ones I used came from Lowe's and are for a Nissan.
part# 881206
Push fasteners
variable depth
0.80 for a pair.
you mean the ccaliper clamp mount?
i just turned it upside down.
Quote from: Fat Freddy's Cat on June 15, 2009, 03:44:10 PM
you mean the ccaliper clamp mount?
i just turned it upside down.
Yeah, but that's cheating. ;D
Also, while it works with Monsters, some of the other Ducs (748)don't have that option.
Quote from: Bun-bun on June 23, 2009, 07:17:36 PM
Also, while it works with Monsters, some of the other Ducs (748)don't have that option.
748 mirrors mount through the fairing to the fairing stays. I think it is monsters with non-coffin style brakes that can't be flipped, my '01 M900 for example.
Quote from: XJDAVE on June 24, 2009, 05:30:01 PM
748 mirrors mount through the fairing to the fairing stays. I think it is monsters with non-coffin style brakes that can't be flipped, my '01 M900 for example.
Correction noted
Point proven.
Quote from: minnesotamonster on December 31, 2008, 10:16:16 AM
Psst....I think that was a joke.... ;)
Not a joke. ;D
'97 M900, two sources for replacement/additional keys:
1) Kawasaki dealer. Key = Silca KW14. ($5 from dealer in Plano, TX).
2) Locksmith. Key = KA11. ($3.50 from Bee's Key's locksmith in Dallas, TX. Have a second store next to AMS on Industrial Blvd. I went to the store @ 7711 Inwood, just South of Lovers Lane).
Quote from: Bun-bun on June 15, 2009, 03:14:36 PM
I found a simple cheap fix for the ugly holes left when you pull the stock mirrors.
Plastic push fasteners used for holding interior auto panels.
The ones I used came from Lowe's and are for a Nissan.
part# 881206
Push fasteners
variable depth
0.80 for a pair.
Thanks for the tip and the part # - helpful detail that saves a lot of time and [bang] talking to the wrong person at Lowes.
[thumbsup]
If you lose the weird nut that holds the brake and clutch levers on, and dont want to spend $8 for one at the dealer. It's called a Pal nut and can be had from "Metric Tool" in Wakefield MA for 64 cents.
BTW headlight
Glass Lens: Bosch p/n 1305604904 is no longer available, and there is no replacement number. I contacted Bosch looking for a cross reference for a clear lens of the same dimensions, and they reported back with the following:
Lens # 1305604904 is obsolete and no longer available from Bosch. No update
is offered on this lens/headlight. Bosch is not able to fulfill your request for a replacement unit.
Regards,
Bosch e-mail reply
Quote from: howie on December 31, 2008, 11:21:24 AM
No joke, there is a Kaw, Alfa and Fiat blank that will work. A real lock smith should be able to hook you up.
dont you need the chip in the key for it to work?
Quote from: hadesducati848 on October 22, 2009, 12:19:52 AM
dont you need the chip in the key for it to work?
This refers to older bikes without the immobilizer.
Does anyone know of an aftermarket shift lever (the one for your foot) for the '09 M1100? The OEM one is about $80, and if I can get an aftermarket one, I'd rather do that. I've only had my bike a few months, and this is the first time I will have to take a wrench to it. It would seem that things like shift & brake levers, hand levers, etc. would be fairly generic. Am I wrong about that? What's the best way to go about this?
Thanks in advance,
Phil
Phil,
an aftermarket shifter will run you $70 about, and it will be GP shift. Rearsets are not common design on our bikes, so $80 for a shift lever is about right. I would straighten the shift lever before i bought a new one....if it's bent.
You may get more help on options to your dilemma if you post this question in Tech or Accessories and Mods.
Quote from: Phriday on November 09, 2009, 10:05:10 AM
Does anyone know of an aftermarket shift lever (the one for your foot) for the '09 M1100? The OEM one is about $80, and if I can get an aftermarket one, I'd rather do that. I've only had my bike a few months, and this is the first time I will have to take a wrench to it. It would seem that things like shift & brake levers, hand levers, etc. would be fairly generic. Am I wrong about that? What's the best way to go about this?
Thanks in advance,
Phil
It's cast aluminum and it's very hard to bend properly. I bent mine ages ago and tried to bend it back -- broke right off. I would lay money you will break it unless the bend is VERY VERY slight.
Generic? Nope. Not on any bike that I know of.
Purolator Fuel Filter #F20005 will work on carbed Monsters [thumbsup]
Quote from: Phriday on November 09, 2009, 10:05:10 AM
Does anyone know of an aftermarket shift lever (the one for your foot) for the '09 M1100? Phil
Is there another one I'm unaware of, for a different part of my body? ???
Here is an alternative to the expensive tool from Ducati for removing the four-pronged nuts on the timing belt cam and crank pulleys. The catch is it is just the blueprint and you have to find a metal shop who will cut it for you. I think I paid under $40. Or you have them cut it and weld it yourself for cheaper.
This is the link to the PDF
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B-n-YTyZhLoCOGU5YjA2NDItYmExNS00YmU3LThjOGYtMDIyNWQwNThjNDFm&hl=en
And this is the link to the DXF which is the universal CAD file that the shop will need in order to put the data into their laser cut machines.
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B-n-YTyZhLoCY2NiMGMzYzgtZDlkYy00ZjY5LTkzY2QtNjY3MGM2YmQzYjgw&hl=en
If you don't have access to a shop that has laser cutting capabilities, PM me and I'll have my shop fab you one up for a small mark up. Say $60 including shipping.
I'm giving away this design because Ducati tools are ridiculously expensive. And the more people that can get this crucial tool for cheep, the more people will work on these bikes and the more knowledge will be out there for everyone. PM with ideas for other tools I should possibly make.
P.S. To torque against, I put channel locks around an old belt. I could make the actual tool for holding it but I didn't think it was necessary.
um...which GSXR fork seals fit the S2R800
is there a less expensive alternative to the oil cooler lines for a 2006 S2R800? Seacoast told me it was something like $120 for one and $140 for the other
Quote from: faolan01 on March 10, 2010, 11:42:44 AM
is there a less expensive alternative to the oil cooler lines for a 2006 S2R800? Seacoast told me it was something like $120 for one and $140 for the other
You can buy them from fren tubo, but they're no cheaper.
Quick Disconnect fuel line fittings sold by Fast by Ferraci and Motowheels are sourced from Omega
http://www.omega.com/pptst/ftlc.html (http://www.omega.com/pptst/ftlc.html)
i just bought mine directly from omega at half the price.
FT-LCD100-04 @2pcs
FT-LCD230-06 @2pcs
15 each, 8bucks shipping - 68 shipped to my door. everywhere else charges double
Quote from: RB on October 21, 2009, 04:01:36 AM
BTW headlight
Glass Lens: Bosch p/n 1305604904 is no longer available, and there is no replacement number. I contacted Bosch looking for a cross reference for a clear lens of the same dimensions, and they reported back with the following:
Lens # 1305604904 is obsolete and no longer available from Bosch. No update
is offered on this lens/headlight. Bosch is not able to fulfill your request for a replacement unit.
Regards,
Bosch e-mail reply
I was able to cut a new lense out of a used jaguar headlight. Worked great.
Quote from: Ducaholic on March 30, 2010, 04:52:30 PM
I was able to cut a new lense out of a used jaguar headlight. Worked great.
And that Jaguar Headlight part number would be......?? and plastic i assume...??
Quote from: RB on April 06, 2010, 06:03:52 AM
And that Jaguar Headlight part number would be......?? and plastic i assume...??
Yes its plastic and I have no idea on the part number. Just borrowed an old headlight from our bodyshop and used it. Doesn't absolutely have to be a jag headlight.
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=36575.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=36575.0)
On my S4R I busted a clutch lever. When I went to replace it, the set screw was frozen into the threaded piston on the lever side. I had to drill out the set screw to get the piston out, which was then ruined. Searching for this part yielded the same result everywhere: "Common problem. $150, 5-6 weeks from Italy."
I went to ACE Hardware and bought a 6mm Allen bolt with the same thread pitch. I took this home and put it in my drill press and lathed it (with a bastard file) to the same size as the tapered piston. 34 cents and a year later and it still works perfectly.
guys/gals, does anyone know a cheap replacement for the oil temperature censor fior GT1000? the one that provides temperature reading on the dash. it is $75 at the dealer... ???
many thanks in advance!
If your bike has 41mm Showa forks ('90s vintage SS/Monster), you can go to your local Harley Davidson dealer (until they stop supporting Buell) and get a set of seals for a Buell Lightning. They used this fork until 2010 (when they stopped making them altogether) so they should have them for a while. They're $25 for the PAIR, in stock, rather than the $50 each our local Ducati dealer wanted to order a set.
Cloner
ABQ, NM
Quote from: Cloner on November 04, 2010, 03:20:28 PM
If your bike has 41mm Showa forks ('90s vintage SS/Monster), you can go to your local Harley Davidson dealer (until they stop supporting Buell) and get a set of seals for a Buell Lightning. They used this fork until 2010 (when they stopped making them altogether) so they should have them for a while. They're $25 for the PAIR, in stock, rather than the $50 each our local Ducati dealer wanted to order a set.
Cloner
ABQ, NM
How much are the seals from the Dealership? Because i ordered 4 and got them for 8 bucks each.....are we talking about different seals?
Quote from: PizzaMonster on May 07, 2008, 07:30:17 PM
Well.... :e:v. I read someplace that the s2r 800 marzocchi fork seals are very expensive. Apparently, you can use Suzuki GSXR Fork Seals..........about $11.00 each versus the $140 per side someone was quoted .
Maybe someone can verify this for me?
Just verified today that Suzuki GSXR750 fork seals from years 1996-2005 do indeed fit a Monster 695 Marzocchi fork, and I assume all non-adjustable Marzocchis from the last several years, including Sport Classics. A friend and I installed a set in a 695 today, same seals that fit my Sport Classic. Need to confirm when purchasing that they are 43mm X 54mm X 11mm. Dealer wanted $130 for a seal and dust cap set. Seals only for a GSXR 570 were ~$25.
Barrel and pushrod for clutch lever:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44490.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44490.0)
Kind of a new company I have bought products from that are usually half the normal cost. Thier sliders and stands are heavy duty quality.
http://www.t-rex-racing.com/ (http://www.t-rex-racing.com/)
are there any bikes that share similar turn signals to my 2000 m900Sie? ducati, honda, or whatever? i dno't want aftermarket invisible ones and don't want to pay the ~$50 each on Ebay either...
thanks
Quote from: froby on March 04, 2010, 09:32:42 AM
Here is an alternative to the expensive tool from Ducati for removing the four-pronged nuts on the timing belt cam and crank pulleys. The catch is it is just the blueprint and you have to find a metal shop who will cut it for you. I think I paid under $40. Or you have them cut it and weld it yourself for cheaper.
This is the link to the PDF
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B-n-YTyZhLoCOGU5YjA2NDItYmExNS00YmU3LThjOGYtMDIyNWQwNThjNDFm&hl=en
And this is the link to the DXF which is the universal CAD file that the shop will need in order to put the data into their laser cut machines.
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B-n-YTyZhLoCY2NiMGMzYzgtZDlkYy00ZjY5LTkzY2QtNjY3MGM2YmQzYjgw&hl=en
If you don't have access to a shop that has laser cutting capabilities, PM me and I'll have my shop fab you one up for a small mark up. Say $60 including shipping.
I'm giving away this design because Ducati tools are ridiculously expensive. And the more people that can get this crucial tool for cheep, the more people will work on these bikes and the more knowledge will be out there for everyone. PM with ideas for other tools I should possibly make.
P.S. To torque against, I put channel locks around an old belt. I could make the actual tool for holding it but I didn't think it was necessary.
very nice of you to offer up the drawing. another way to replicate that tool would be with a die grinder/dremmel and a socket you don't mind permanently altering. if one goes down that road, be very carefull to get the teeth precise, or it will damage the pronged nut
I did just that, got the appropriate sized socket and carved away with a Dremel until I had just four prongs in just the right spots. The fit was very snug. It folded on the first nut I loosened, the prongs just weren't strong enough. It got worse when I tightened on the replacement. I managed to get the old nut off, the leaking seal replaced, and the new one on with just minor damage to one of the four slots in the nut but the tool was toast. Multiple prongs were bent and it's unusable. The socket wall thickness was just too thin. One might have better luck with and impact socket with thicker walls or just some thick walled pipe. The only trouble then is you still need to attach it to the torque wrench somehow which is why I used a socket to start with in the first place.
If I were doing it again I'd just find the lowest price on the internet and order the tool. You can always sell it again if you want to recover most of the cost.
Scott
Carb Diaphragms.
This worked for my M750 with stock Mikuni carbs. May work for other engine sizes as I think all the carbed Monsters used the same basic carb with different jetting.
Suzuki Part #13507-07D01
This is a diaphragm for a Suzuki DR650, which uses Mikuni carbs and the same slide assembly, but a different carb. It is just the rubber diaphragm, not the entire slide assembly. At the time I posted this these were $26 each, so for just over $50 you could replace the diaphragms for cheaper than any other alternative I've found. The OEM Ducati slide assembly has a plastic circlip that holds the diaphragm in place. Once that is off, you can gently remove & replace the diaphragm.
JM
According to Allballs Racing, all the bike models listed below use the same fork seals. Notice how many Ducks are included.
https://www.allballsracing.com/55-119.html (https://www.allballsracing.com/55-119.html)
Fork Seal Only Kit BMW F650 97-99, F650 GGS/GS Dakar 00-05, F650 ST 97-99, F650GS 99-02, F650GS/M 03-07, G650GS 08-09, K75 90-95, K75 RT 85-95, K75 S 85-95, R100 R 91-95, Buell Lightning X1 00-02, Thunderbolt 99-01, Ducati 750 S/Sport S/Light 91-96, 750 SS Showa 91-96, 888 Superbike All 92-95, 900 Monster All 93-99, 900 S/Sport S/Light 91-97, 900 SS Showa 90-94, 900SS 98-99, Harley FLHR Road King 94-09, FLHRC Road King Classic 07-09, FLHRCI Road King Classic 98-03, FLHRI Road King F/I 96-97, FLHRS Road King Custom 07, FLHT Electra Glide 86-99, FLHT Electra Glide Standard 07-09, FLHT/P Police 90-95, FLHTC Electra Glide Classic 84-09, FLHTCI Electra Glide Classic 95-99, FLHTCU Ultra Clasic E-G 89-96, FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide 07-09, FLHTCUI Ultra Clasic E-G F/I 95-98, FLHX Street Glide 07-09, FLST Heritage Softail 86-90, FLSTC Heritage Softail 87-99, FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic 00-08, FLSTF Fat Boy 00-08, FLSTF Fatboy 90-99, FLSTN Heritage ST Nostalgia 93-96, FLSTN Softail Deluxe 07-08, FLSTS Heritage Springer 97-03, FLSTSB Softail Cross Bones 08, FLTC Tour Guide Classic 84-94, FLTCU Ultra Classic TG 89-95, FLTCUI Ultra Classic TG FI 96, FLTR Road Glide 98-09, FLTRI Road Glide 98-99, FXB Sturgis w/41mm Forks 84, FXD Dyna Super Glide w/41mm Forks 93-05, FXDL Dyna Low Rider w/41mm Forks 93-04, FXDS Dyna Convertible w/41mm Forks 96-00, FXDS Dyna Sport w/41mm Forks 93-95, FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide w/41mm Forks 93-05, FXDX Dyna Superglide Sport w/41mm Forks 03-05, FXDXT Dyna Superglide T Sport w/41mm Forks 99-03, FXE Super Glide w/41mm Forks 84, FXSB Low Rider Belt Drive w/41mm Forks 84, FXSB Low Rider w/41mm Forks 85, FXST Softail 84-03, FXST Softail Standard 07, FXSTB Night Train 00-08, FXSTC Softail Custom 86-08, FXSTD Softail Deuce 00-07, FXSTS Springer Softail 88-03, FXSTSB Bad Boy 95-97, FXWG Wide Glide 84-86, Honda CB400F 89-90, CB600F (599) 04-06, CB750 Nighthawk 91-02, CBF1000 (Euro) 06-08, CBF500 (Euro) 04-06, CBR1000F 87-96, CBR600F2 91-94, CBR600F3 95-98, CBR600RR 05-10, FX650 (EURO) 99-00, GL1200 Gold Wing 84-87, GL1500 88-90, GL1500A 91-98, GL1500I 91-96, GL1500S 90-91, GL1500SE 90-00, NT 650 DEAUVILLE (Euro) 98-05, NT 700 DEAUVILLE (Euro) 06-07, NT650 (Euro) 88-91, NTV 600 (Euro) 88-91, NTV 650 (Euro) 92-97, NX500 (EURO) 93-99, NX650 (Euro) 88-99, PC800 Pacific Coast 89-98, RVF750R (EURO) 93-94, SLR 650 (Euro) 97-98, ST1100 91-02, ST1100A 92-95, VF1000F 84, VF1000R 85-86, VF1100C & S 83-86, VF750C 94-02, VF750C2 97-02, VF750CD 95-96, VFR400 90-91, VFR750F 90-97, VFR800 FI Interceptor 98-01, VT1100C 87-07, VT1100C2 95-99, VT1100C3 98-02, VT750 DCA 06-07, VT750CB 06, VT750DC & DCA 01-05, VTR1000F 98-05, VTX1300 03-09, VTX1300R 05-09, XL600V TRANSALP (Euro) 87-99, XL650 TRANSALP (Euro) 00-06, XR250L 91-96, XR350R 83-85, Kawasaki VN1500 Classic 06-08, VN1500A 87-99, VN1500B 87-90, VN1500C 96-97, VN1500D 96-97, VN1500D1 05, VN1500E 98-04, VN1500G 99-01, VN1500J 99-00, VN1500L 00-04, VN1500N 00-02, VN1500R 01-05, VN800 A1-A11 95-05, VN800 B1-B10 96-05, VN800 C1-C2 99-00, VN800 E1-E6 01-06, VN900 06-11, Z1000 03-09, ZG1200 Voyager 86-03, ZR550 90-93, ZX600 (ZX-6R) 05-11, ZX600 (ZX6RR) 03-06, ZX600 (ZZR) 03-04, ZX600D (ZX-6) 90-93, ZX600E (ZX-6) 93-02, Suzuki GSX1100F 88-93, GSX600F Katana 88-06, GSX750F Katana 89-06, GSX-R600 92-09, GSXR750 91-09, RF600R 94-96, RGV250 (Euro) 89-97, SV650 03-09, SV650 S 06-09, VL1500 Intruder 98-09, VL800 Intruder Volusia 01-09, VS1400GL 87-95, VS1400GLP 96-09, Yamaha TT350 86-87
George
I couldn't find signal indicator bulbs anywhere for my 2010 M696... A very oddball bulb...
Found that indicator bulbs from a Kawasaki Ninja 250 are a direct replacement. My local Kawi dealer had them in stock.
Quote from: BoDiddley on January 06, 2011, 06:22:41 PM
Kind of a new company I have bought products from that are usually half the normal cost. Thier sliders and stands are heavy duty quality.
http://www.t-rex-racing.com/ (http://www.t-rex-racing.com/)
Best price on good quality stands I've seen. Just ordered a front and rear stand. Thanks for the link!
Got my stand from them recently. Needed a SSS stand and I am very happy with what I got. I looked into their sliders and they are not wide enough to protect the vulnerable parts on my S4R.
Alternative sources for the spendy 4V sparkplugs:
Quote from: ducatiz on May 25, 2011, 07:01:06 PM
$8 each
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=12&partnum=1006&a=FR12-1006-2777 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=12&partnum=1006&a=FR12-1006-2777)
Quote from: Munch on May 26, 2011, 04:16:28 PM
Try http://www.clubplug.net/products.html (http://www.clubplug.net/products.html)
I get my $85 Ducati OEM plugs for my 749R here for $13.00
Duct tape...
Hey just in case you have a dealer nearby, Bosch # 0 451 103 139 or P3139, works on our bikes ...as well as a Mann W7129 or Peugeot 1109 A2/AM 223 105 A
Also, Bosch spark plug YR 7DC+, for DesmoDue engines, used by:
2010 Mercedes-Benz E350
2010 Mercedes-Benz GLK350
2009 Mercedes-Benz C300
2009 Mercedes-Benz C350
2009 Mercedes-Benz CLK350
2009 Mercedes-Benz E350
2009 Mercedes-Benz GL450
2009 Mercedes-Benz R350
2009 Mercedes-Benz S550
2009 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2009 Mercedes-Benz SLK350
2008 Mercedes-Benz C300
2008 Mercedes-Benz C350
2008 Mercedes-Benz CLK350
2008 Mercedes-Benz E350
2008 Mercedes-Benz GL450
2008 Mercedes-Benz ML350
2008 Mercedes-Benz R350
2008 Mercedes-Benz S550
2008 Mercedes-Benz SL550 and many others
Also show as cross reference, BMW F800R spark plugs ...
Just in case you have a SF or newer Monster and have to replace the mirrors and want the OEM look but no the price, take a look here,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducati-Mirrors-Set-Monster-696-1100-S-08-09-10-/290546595096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a5ed3518 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducati-Mirrors-Set-Monster-696-1100-S-08-09-10-/290546595096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a5ed3518)
Valve Adjustment shims - openers, closers, shim measuring tool, etc. for both 2-V and 4-V individually or in kits. I bought a kit and can give an unsolicited testimonial to their quality, fit finish, hardness and sizing. Compared to what Ducati wants for the Openers and Closer shims and the typical wait on the parts order because most dealers don't want to give up their personal stash when they don't get the service labor to adjust your valves and this outfit is a total bargain. Not to mention, if you go thru your checks the first time and find you are not likely to use some portion of the range in the kit, they'll take the unused sizes back and swap for shims you will use. How cool is that? http://www.emsduc.com/index.html (http://www.emsduc.com/index.html)
Cam Timing Belts & Tools - I bought some cam belts and cam timing tools from California Cycleworks. The belts were exact and equal quality to the expensive Ducati labelled belts at about half the price. I got a crankshaft turning tool and a Motion Pro degree wheel altered fit on the crank turning tool and a piston stop tool, which could be easy enough to fabricate, turn and weld, but they made it easy one-stop shopping and it all worked together right out of the box. http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/ (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/)
Please correct me if i am wrong, 2002-2006 injected fuel tanks are very $$, I found this ducati part number for a new tank / year 2005 / dark metallic grey 586.1.044.1CD $900.26 dealer price. better than $2247.00
Anyone see why this wont fit?
Quote from: Monster750ie on September 15, 2011, 10:30:09 AM
Please correct me if i am wrong, 2002-2006 injected fuel tanks are very $$, I found this ducati part number for a new tank / year 2005 / dark metallic grey 586.1.044.1CD $900.26 dealer price. better than $2247.00
Anyone see why this wont fit?
What year/model is your bike?
Quote from: Monster750ie on September 15, 2011, 10:30:09 AM
Please correct me if i am wrong, 2002-2006 injected fuel tanks are very $$, I found this ducati part number for a new tank / year 2005 / dark metallic grey 586.1.044.1CD $900.26 dealer price. better than $2247.00
Anyone see why this wont fit?
From that part#, I'm 99% sure that's a plastic tank.
Quote from: Speeddog on September 15, 2011, 06:36:22 PM
From that part#, I'm 99% sure that's a plastic tank.
Then in such case ... if he has a M750ie, he has a metal tank ... unless he has a post 02 in which case he could have either? Right?
This from the readings on tanks in the Tech thread ..
I have a 2002 750 ie, I didn't purchase this tank, If I have some time ill research the part figure out if it is in fact a plastic tank. I am sure you are right though. I thought plastic tanks didn't come out till 2006?
Just knock on it, if it goes like 'blang' is metal if it goes 'tok tok' is plastic ... I'd stay with the metal tank if I were you ...
Agreed, no plastic tank for me.
Quote from: Moto Mecanica PTY on September 15, 2011, 06:43:34 PM
Then in such case ... if he has a M750ie, he has a metal tank ... unless he has a post 02 in which case he could have either? Right?
This from the readings on tanks in the Tech thread ..
M750ie was one year only, 2002, and it came with a metal tank.
Plastic tanks started in 2005, but weren't used on all models that year.
Quote from: Speeddog on September 16, 2011, 09:41:07 AM
M750ie was one year only, 2002, and it came with a metal tank.
Plastic tanks started in 2005, but weren't used on all models that year.
OK, I've seen an 04 620 with plastic and with metal down here in Panama ... One came from the US the other bought directly here ...also an 02 MS4 with metal and the other one with plastic .. see me confussion ...all 4 bikes are each 2 from the same year, both MS4 were bought in teh US and brought here by owners ...
In the US, '05 was the start of the plastic tanks.
I've never seen a monster with a plastic tank earlier than that.
If you saw an '02 S4 with a plastic tank from the US, it was retrofitted.
Quote from: Speeddog on September 16, 2011, 09:56:08 AM
In the US, '05 was the start of the plastic tanks.
I've never seen a monster with a plastic tank earlier than that.
If you saw an '02 S4 with a plastic tank from the US, it was retrofitted.
OK, but what about the M620? VIN #s 10digit is 4=2004
Ducati Starter 2002 M750 Part # 270.4.001.1A = $554.05
Called EMS (Electric Motor Service) www.electricmotorsvc.com (//http://) 304-752-6070
Got the exact same Denso starter. Brand new not rebuilt Denso part # 128000-6050 for $132.66 It even has the Ducati part number as 270 4001 1A above the Denso #.
They also have a Denso knockoff replacement for 109.00 if you need to save more, but I opted for the direct replacement.
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, just amazed at the savings and wanted to share with the rest of you.
$4.50 (Or $15.39+shipping) Manual Fuel Petcock:
Many owners choose to replace their faulty (or soon faulty) vacuum operated petcock for a manual one. One choice is a Motion-Pro 5/16" inline manual petcock, as seen here: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/12-0036/ (http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/12-0036/), which AFAIK works well, and costs $15.39+shipping.
(http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/12-0036.jpg)
I was going to use that, but when I had to work on the fuel system for other reasons and didn't have the part on hand or the time to order it online, I found an alternative that works locally at Advance Auto Parts for $4.50. It is an inline plastic fuel shut off valve, and has worked for me so far, but I must warn that it isn't exactly right for the application because it has 1/4" barbs on each end rather than 5/16". At least so far, clamps on the barbs have held the hose securely in place, even though the barbs are 1/16" smaller than they ideally should be. I fabricated a bracket to mount the petcock where the old one mounted. As always, YMMV. If this is a planned mod done at your leisure, I would probably spend the extra $15 or so and go with the Motion Pro, but in a pinch, a fiver and a trip to AAP provides a reasonable solution.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_1-4%22-Fuel-Shut-Off-Valve-Max-Power_6180063-P_N3582C_A%7CGRP2097 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_1-4%22-Fuel-Shut-Off-Valve-Max-Power_6180063-P_N3582C_A%7CGRP2097)
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRjCxLm5WjcEMccyeH3U2goitaulKQaZZSerBElSPwnPHCVfdQp2g)
Finally, if you're going to do this or any other work on your fuel system, make sure you have a working fire extinguisher nearby; you never know what might happen. (I came dangerously close to needing mine when I left a sharp edge on the bracket that I made... when the engine was idling after first starting it up, the vibrations turned that sharp edge into a carving knife and sliced right through my fuel line, spraying fuel right near the rear cylinder header. Good thing I caught it before I tried a test ride and could turn off my handy fuel shut off valve.)
This is maybe in ducatiz thread but just in case
Baldwin oil filter B7292
OK alternatives for fuel filter OEM # 425 400 41B and 425 400 41A:
BOSCH 0 450 904 162
MAHLE/KNECHT KL- 145
MANN/HENGST MWK 44 / 66 300 59 940
ENDURALAST FF-859
BMW 16 142 325 859
Cost go from $12.00 to $22.00 plus S&H ...
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product_p/ff-859oe.htm (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product_p/ff-859oe.htm)
http://www.vallantinemotorworks.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2 (http://www.vallantinemotorworks.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2)
I had my Ignition relay go out and after order 2 wrong relays i thought i would make it easier for the others.
The OE relay should be something like BITRON(Italy) # PA66-GF30 and this is how you can find it to buy...
The Ducati part # is: 28740141A
Here are the other alternatives......
Radio shack 900-2391
Seimens/Tyco V23073/V23074
Bosch 0 332 207 307
Napa AR 634
Car Quest RY 620
Borg Warner R3223
Orman 68H-UA-0070003
Mopar 56006846
really can believe this hasn't been covered, but i have a 2001 Monster 900Sie. Fuel pump when out and at ducati they are around 258ish, part number is a BOSCH 0580453408. Went to my local auto parts store cross referenced the bosch number and got a pump for 60.00. The rubber surround on the pump is just a cover that slides off the pump and onto the new one.
Easy peezy japanesey. I ended up with a AIRTEK E8335
Or upgrade to electric like this...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump/p2031586.jcwx?filterid=c2064u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel (http://www.jcwhitney.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump/p2031586.jcwx?filterid=c2064u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel)
I'm currently running it and it works fine.
Quote from: Skyshadow on March 15, 2012, 12:57:39 PM
Or upgrade to electric like this...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump/p2031586.jcwx?filterid=c2064u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel (http://www.jcwhitney.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump/p2031586.jcwx?filterid=c2064u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel)
I'm currently running it and it works fine.
His bike is fuel injected. he needs a high pressure pump.
^ OOh... touche
Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston Seal
Trying to find the slave cylinder piston seal for 2000+ models. It's the later type that runs the longer pushrod.
I have a homemade tool for removing the star cap to access the slave cylinder internals.
The part number is Brembo 0542 6399.
All the brake and clutch workshops I have tried do not have that seal, and it is not listed with the mainstream car part suppliers in Australia. It is an odd size between the sizes available down here.
If anyone can find a cross reference part number for it (and maybe even an upgraded seal), then the stock Ducati slave cylinder becomes rebuildable. Similar parts cost only a few dollars.
If I find it I will update.
Hey, had the voltage reg/rec go on my 696 dealers needs 3 weeks to get the part. I found this company in Quebec Can. rmstator.com sell electrics for bikes and toys good selection for duc's Mine was in stock and will be here by Fri. [thumbsup]
Cylinder head nut removal tool:
There is a $12 (shipped) alternative to the Ducati tool (88713.2676 or the older one) that I discovered. It's available from Summit Racing (and elsewhere, like from some Amazon vendors). It's called a distributor clamp wrench 13mm & 15 mm made by Performance Tool, part number W1186. It's hard to tell in the pictures online, but the top and bottom separate, so you have basically an L shaped tool that has a 12pt 15mm cutout on the bottom, and accepts a 3/8" drive ratchet / breaker bar / torque wrench on top. Important note: Make sure to attach the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the tool when torquing, or your torque value will be wrong, unless you correct for it.
I just snapped a picture of it with a breaker bar attached in the orientation that you would attach a torque wrench.
(http://www.mediafire.com/conv/16740ab4e3e495f42b207f8a79df771d5ded752bebbd89da6c82d2749cab82a74g.jpg) (http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?thumb=5&quickkey=4c55acpwh9db4c9)
PS: If you can't / don't want to attach it at 90 degrees, see here (http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torque-wrench-extension-calculator.aspx) for information on how to correct (thanks ducpainter for the link). Note that when correcting there, that's for if the tool is at 0 degrees, if it were at an angle, you'd need to do some trig before using that formula.
Quote from: bond0087 on May 28, 2012, 01:40:27 PM
http://www.mediafire.com/conv/16740ab4e3e495f42b207f8a79df771d5ded752bebbd89da6c82d2749cab82a74g.jpg (http://www.mediafire.com/conv/16740ab4e3e495f42b207f8a79df771d5ded752bebbd89da6c82d2749cab82a74g.jpg)[/img][/URL]
PS: If you can't / don't want to attach it at 90 degrees, see here (http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torque-wrench-extension-calculator.aspx) for information on how to correct (thanks ducpainter for the link). Note that when correcting there, that's for if the tool is at 0 degrees, if it were at an angle, you'd need to do some trig before using that formula.
Given that the tool in the photo has two different 90 degree bends in two different geometric planes I'm having a hard time following you here.
Good point, my explanation was not very clear. (That's actually why I left off that information in my first post about this and just said to put the tool on like in my picture.)
Here's a quick drawing that I did to show what I mean (this is looking up from the below the breaker bar)
(http://www.mediafire.com/conv/cef97a438ec6b5058a0e2abe7c3853952d3a4fabe8ac1a54ccf9b681e6ed93884g.jpg) (http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?thumb=5&quickkey=86t49l076to42r4)
Does that make more sense?
How to pull your alternator cover for free or for under a few dollars:
If you are going to take off your alternator cover (or stator cover, whatever you want to call it) , you need a tool to pull the cover off of the engine. If you were to pry along the edges, it would probably never seal again. There is a special tool from Ducati for removing the cover, or you could buy an aftermarket version for roughly $25-$40 I think. Alternatively, you could use a regular puller, for example a timing gear puller.
Autozone stocks a timing gear puller for $15, part brand/number OEM 27009. The great thing about this tool is that it is one of Autozone's loan-a-tools, so you can borrow it for free. After that, you just need to get a pair of M6 (I think.. it could be M5, I would check first) bolts that thread into the alternator cover where the inspection cover comes off. You'll probably need some washers also, unless you can find a pair of M6 flange head bolts easily. You really don't need to even buy those, though, because if you're taking the cover off, you probably already have a wealth of removed fasteners that will work sitting around. Just take those and some washers, use your rented puller, and return it to Autozone afterwards for a full refund of your deposit.
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27009/image/4/)
Just to be clear, the bolts go through the slots on either side of the tool, with washers in between the bolt head and the tool, because the slot may be wider than the bolt head. The bolts are then threaded into the inspection cover holes, and then the middle part is turned until it makes contact with the shaft, then turned some more in order to pull the cover off. If it is difficult to pull the cover, you've missed a bolt (or have a much lower definition of difficult than I do). I say this because I started turning it and it was difficult, and then I realized that I missed a bolt on the cover, behind the sprocket cover.
If you're like me, I know what you're thinking when you see that tool: "Well that looks fine for the most part, but is that sharp tip going to ruin something when I start pulling with it?" The answer is no; there is nothing for the tip to poke, so instead, the contact area is a ring right around the conical section, and the load is distributed evenly along the inner diameter of the shaft (at least on my M750 engine, I'd be surprised if it was different on other engines, but I would also double check if I were you).
Of course, there are other manufacturers of the same type of tool (Performance Tool W87010, for example), and probably other stores that will gladly rent you one, but for those in the US, I think Autozone will be the easiest.
Disclaimer: I didn't actually use this exact one, nor did I rent it from Autozone. I am 99.99% sure that this will work, though. I had a seemingly identical tool sitting around from something else, so I used that, and then I saw that this one was available for rent at Autozone when I was looking for something else.
Anybody know of a inexpensive alternative for the passenger footrest sets for my s2r? i'm not looking to spend $400+ on OEM...
Quote from: T-Rent on June 06, 2012, 06:47:26 PM
Anybody know of a inexpensive alternative for the passenger footrest sets for my s2r? i'm not looking to spend $400+ on OEM...
just the footpegs or complete?
Quote from: Darkmonster620 on June 07, 2012, 06:40:06 AM
just the footpegs or complete?
complete... the footpegs seem easy enough to find, but the entire sets on the other hand..
Quote from: T-Rent on June 07, 2012, 07:59:17 AM
complete... the footpegs seem easy enough to find, but the entire sets on the other hand..
Ok, you can try the forum's flea market and place an add in Parts Wanted or look in Parts for Sale . . . locally[Panama City, Central America], a guy fabricated his own . . . not OEM looking but functional
Quote from: ducpainter on May 18, 2008, 09:49:20 AM
Brake light switch.....
Ducpainter, thanks for this tip! (from pg1 of this thread).
Just put one in my SS.
Radio Shack price is now a whopping $2.99.
Ducati OEM price is $46.97 + shipping.
[thumbsup]
Fork seals and scrapers to fit 43mm Showas
Suzuki Bandit 1200S '98-'00
Scrapers 51173-29E00
Seals 51153-14D00
Exactly same as Ducati seals, same manufacturer (NOK), same numbers on 'em.
Pricing is not spectacularly better than Ducati, but for some folks, a Suzuki dealer may be a lot closer....
Quote from: Speeddog on September 11, 2012, 05:13:46 PM
Fork seals and scrapers to fit 43mm Showas
Suzuki Bandit 1200S '98-'00
Scrapers 51173-29E00
Seals 51153-14D00
Exactly same as Ducati seals, same manufacturer (NOK), same numbers on 'em.
Pricing is not spectacularly better than Ducati, but for some folks, a Suzuki dealer may be a lot closer....
Any idea for Marzocchis?
Perhaps this:
Quote from: transplant on April 04, 2011, 02:14:33 PM
According to Allballs Racing, all the bike models listed below use the same fork seals. Notice how many Ducks are included.
https://www.allballsracing.com/55-119.html (https://www.allballsracing.com/55-119.html)
Fork Seal Only Kit BMW F650 97-99, F650 GGS/GS Dakar 00-05, F650 ST 97-99, F650GS 99-02, F650GS/M 03-07, G650GS 08-09, K75 90-95, K75 RT 85-95, K75 S 85-95, R100 R 91-95, Buell Lightning X1 00-02, Thunderbolt 99-01, Ducati 750 S/Sport S/Light 91-96, 750 SS Showa 91-96, 888 Superbike All 92-95, 900 Monster All 93-99, 900 S/Sport S/Light 91-97, 900 SS Showa 90-94, 900SS 98-99, Harley FLHR Road King 94-09, FLHRC Low Rider w/41mm Forks 93-04,
~~~SNIP~~~
8, FXSTD Softail Deuce 00-07, FXSTS Springer Softail 88-03, FXSTSB Bad Boy 95-97, FXWG Wide Glide 84-86, H6-09, Yamaha TT350 86-87
George
Thanks . . . I had seen it, but, since didn't see any post 01 Monsters . . . didn't pay much attention to it . .
Quote from: howie on December 31, 2008, 11:21:24 AM
No joke, there is a Kaw, Alfa and Fiat blank that will work. A real lock smith should be able to hook you up.
It's true. I made extra keys on Kawi blanks for my 1998 M900. So, keys ran about $4.50 each. [thumbsup]
Everyone else, thanks for all the great tips on this thread.
Quote from: Monster750ie on October 10, 2011, 12:10:02 PM
Ducati Starter 2002 M750 Part # 270.4.001.1A = $554.05
Called EMS (Electric Motor Service) www.electricmotorsvc.com (//http://) (//http://) (//http://) (//http://) (//http://) 304-752-6070
Got the exact same Denso starter. Brand new not rebuilt Denso part # 128000-6050 for $132.66 It even has the Ducati part number as 270 4001 1A above the Denso #.
They also have a Denso knockoff replacement for 109.00 if you need to save more, but I opted for the direct replacement.
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, just amazed at the savings and wanted to share with the rest of you.
I just ran a search on the denso number and came up with a $115.78 match
http://www.finditparts.com/t/4182/manufacturer/denso/products/2380794/denso-128000-6050 (http://www.finditparts.com/t/4182/manufacturer/denso/products/2380794/denso-128000-6050)
Or $119
http://www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=DS-101N (http://www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=DS-101N)
I contacted EMS the other week, but they are out of stock and didn't know when they would be getting more in.
Fuel pump/ignition/main relay.
ST2, 748, 916, 996, probably a fistful of others.
Standard (the brand) Part#RY241 ~$10 at your local hardware store
Replaces Bosch 120 65 115 (case also has 0 332 204 182 marking) ~$27 at a dealer.
Purportedly NAPA #AR174 will also work.
I need a fuel pressure regulator in order to complete my conversion to a metal tank on my 06 S2R1k. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket alternative?
spent all day calling around places looking for a starter, ducati part# 270.4001.1A.
[some of this info is redundant, because i used info posted in previous posts in this thread]
finditparts; 128000-6050 (http://www.finditparts.com/products/2380794/denso-128000-6050): i called to verify that these are actual Denso units, not rebuilds, or direct-fit. i was told that the part# has been superseded by 128000-6051. shortly after the call the 6050 showed out of stock on the website.
finditparts; 128000-6051 (http://www.finditparts.com/products/3722191/denso-128000-6051): i was told that these are indeed Denso brand "left overs". $125 + $15 shipping to east coast from a warehouse in Ohio. Denso Warranty (90 days?)
electric motor service: called ems (http://www.electricmotorsvc.com/) (which purchased stockers assets in 2009) since the website does not have an online purchasing option. they referred me to stockers.com
stockers; DS-101N (http://www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=DS-101N): i did a search on the model# and i got some hits making me think these are Chinese made. when i asked over the phone whether they are made in china, i was told that it is their own design. the DS-101N is their internal code, but ordering that i would get a Denso ??? $120 + $14 shipped to US. 2yr Warranty.
summerland autosports; 128000-6050 (http://www.summerlandautosports.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=30432): kind of a sketchy outfit. seems like a small time operation running their business under multiple domain names. their support email is @msn.com. they do not stock the starter and seem to relay the order to the manufacturer/distributor. $81 + $7 shipping to east coast. if you're not in a rush to get the part and feeling adventurous, you could give them a try.
motor city reman; SND0670 (http://www.motorcityreman.com/duoe27.html): the picture shows a denso unit, but they are not. they are also not rebuilds. they are new units -- probably similar to the stockers unit. when i asked whether they are made in china, i was told that they are made all over the world. $167 shipped to US. 2yr Warranty.
Quote from: herm on May 25, 2013, 07:01:22 PMI need a fuel pressure regulator in order to complete my conversion to a metal tank on my 06 S2R1k. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket alternative?
If you haven't found one yet, we have some used self contained units from 1st gen 2 valve efi systems, like the M900ie and MH900e, where the pressure regulator is hanging off the throttle bodies. And something like this would work fine (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-325e-M20_2.7L/Engine/Fuel/ES36501/).
Quote from: bagodoosh on June 20, 2013, 07:19:00 PM
spent all day calling around places looking for a starter, ducati part# 270.4001.1A.
I recall that either Tucker Rocky or Parts Unlimited list a part number for a starter for Ducati. I remember buying one to see it. It looked right, if only "too new and well machined". I think we're eBaying that particular model now. No one ever really needs starters for Ducatis.
- Chris
going through a starter motor repair/replacement option for a customer with 07 MTS1100. Seems there are two variants, older one works for many bikes, pre 2004/5 the other from then on. Parts Unlimited offers "Ricks Regulators" which are great but seem to only offer the older version. We sent out non working one to a place I used to use but they could not access the denso parts they claimed they needed. Going to take it to one more shop then its either e bay or ??
#27040051A - what we need, looks like teststretta motor and DS engines share this one
#27040011A - This number can be found all over ebay both after market and OEM
DUCATI MH900E 2002
DUCATI MONSTER 400 2001 - 2008
DUCATI MONSTER 400S 2003
DUCATI MONSTER 600 2000 - 2001
DUCATI MONSTER 620 2002 - 2006
DUCATI MONSTER 620S 2002 - 2003
DUCATI MONSTER 750 2000 - 2002
DUCATI MONSTER 750S 2002
DUCATI MONSTER 800 2003 - 2004
DUCATI MONSTER 800S 2003
DUCATI MONSTER 900 2000 - 2002
DUCATI MONSTER 900S 2000 - 2001
DUCATI MONSTER 695 2007 - 2008
DUCATI MONSTER S4 2002
DUCATI MONSTER S2R 2005 - 2006
DUCATI MONSTER S2R 800 2007
DUCATI MULTISTRADA MTS620 2006
DUCATI SPORTTOURING ST2 2000 - 2003
DUCATI SPORTTOURING ST4 2000 - 2003
DUCATI SPORTTOURING ST4S 2002 - 2003
DUCATI SPORTTOURING ST4S ABS 2003
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 748 1995 - 2002
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 748S 2000 - 2002
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 748R 2000 - 2002
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 916 1994 - 1998
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 916SPS 1997 - 1998
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 996 1999 - 2001
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 996S 1999 - 2001
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 996SPS 1999 - 2000
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 996R 2001
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 998 2002
DUCATI SUPERBIKE 998S Bostrom-Bayliss 2002
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 750S 2001 - 2002
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 750SS 2000 - 2002
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 900S 2002
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 900SS 2000 - 2002
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 620S 2003
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 800S 2003
DUCATI SUPERSPORT 800SS 2003 - 2007
I'm pretty sure the early model will work, it just won't have the extra mount on the right hand end.
Quote from: Speeddog on July 19, 2013, 08:25:34 AM
I'm pretty sure the early model will work, it just won't have the extra mount on the right hand end.
thank you!
Quote from: DuciD03 on December 07, 2008, 08:33:05 PM
Interchangeable Oil filters list
Thread started by meano_lover in Au 04 08; I was looking for a non OEM filter today and the auto store was totally confused; I would have gone to a Motorcycle store but there all closed on Sunday.
From MMacky
Here is the most complete list I could find. I last used the NAPA filter, and at that time it was made by Mann of Germany. Excellent quality for about $7.
US available: (exact)
K & N KN-153
Perf-Form DUC-1
Athena FFP011 (Ducati OEM)
Scott's Performance (permanent washable replacement)
US available: (near exact, fits fine. length may vary)
Fram PH6074 (was PH2839, PH2864A)
Purolator ML16829C (was FC 103 or OC 5)
AC Delco FX0011 (was X4A)
Motorcraft EFL 47
NAPA: 1352 (1352NAPA and 551352 on the box)
Non US:
Champion H101
Cooper Z64
Powertrain FL125
Fiaam FT4654, FT 4847 or PA7059
Purflux LS187
Halfords HOF216
Tecafilter Ref OC5
Technocar R12, R72, R434
Knecht OC 5 (equivalent to Ducati #065149960 and #090549960)
TJ FB2094
Mann & H W712/9, W712/11
Unipart GFE 201
Good cross reference list I ran across a long time ago - glad I kept it now.
Grumby
AC Delco FX0011 (was X4A)
Motorcraft EFL 47
Champion H101
NAPA: 1352 (1352NAPA and 551352 on the box)
Cooper Z64
Powertrain FL125
Fiaam FT4654, FT 4847 or PA7059
Purflux LS187
Fram PH6074 (was PH2839, PH2864A)
Purolator ML16829C (was FC 103 or OC 5)
Halfords HOF216
Tecafilter Ref OC5
K & N KN-153
Technocar R12, R72, R434
Knecht OC 5 (equivalent to Ducati #065149960 and #090549960) TJ FB2094
Mann & H W712/9, W712/11
Unipart GFE 201
Desmo Demon
I switched to using the K&N simply for the welded nut on the end of it. It makes removal sooooo easy.
Here's an interesting tidbit......if you are in a crunch and on a trip somewhere and NEED a filter but cannot find one, go to the local Harley-Davidson dealer.......yes, the local Harley dealer......There are certain mid-80's Harleys that use similar filters. I use the K&N 153 on my '85 FXEF, also.
(So, if you want a chrome filter for your Duc, you can use K&N 172C)
The differences are that the KN-153 has a 1.45 psi higher pressure relief valve and is 0.209" (6mm) longer than the KN-172C. The KN-172C also does not have an anti drain back valve (so an OEM Harley filter should have similar specs to the KN-172C). The last time I bought a filter from the HD dealer, the black one was $5-$6. I think the old 100k+ mile engine can use the higher pressure that the KN-153 supplies, though
KN-153 specs...
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 3.331 in (85 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3.059 in (78 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: M16 x 1.5
PSI Relief Valve: 15.08
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Weight: 0.7 lb (0.3 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.5 in (89 mm)
KN-172C specs...
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 3.122 in (79 mm)
Outside Diameter: 3.059 in (78 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: M16 x 1.5
PSI Relief Valve: 13.63
Anti Drain Back Valve: No
Style: Canister
Finish: Chrome
Weight: 0.6 lb (0.3 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Product Box Height: 3.25 in (83 mm)
I've been using Carquest oil filter #84013 for several years (2001 M900 S. I. E.). It's about $10.00 and it's chrome, if you care about that, I don't. Works just fine, it's actually listed in their catalog. While I'm there I also get NGK DCPR8E, stock#4339 for about $2.50 each. Not the cheapest, but very good. And, for me at least, very convenient.
Dunno if it's in here or not, a search didn't show it.
Submersible fuel line, 30R10 rated, manufactured by Gates.
5/16" size, 1' length, NAPA part# NBH-H209, ~$30
Applicable to all steel tank FI Monsters.
I'm not sure I trust that one. The only hose we've used that doesn't turn into goo is the stuff from Helix Racing.
Quote from: chris on July 30, 2013, 12:12:27 PM
I'm not sure I trust that one. The only hose we've used that doesn't turn into goo is the stuff from Helix Racing.
I've been using the Gates 30R10 hose for ~3 years, no issues.
If the hose from Helix is less costly, great.
Quote from: Speeddog on July 30, 2013, 01:03:51 PM
I've been using the Gates 30R10 hose for ~3 years, no issues.
If the hose from Helix is less costly, great.
Same here...
ducvet uses it too.
Main relay for older Monsters (Mine is a '99 and it fits)
Advance Auto Parts #R3074. Earlier in the thread, there was a Bosch & Borg Warner that were are different relay FYI.
JM
Not a huge deal, but will save time and money. Oil plug from auto parts store will fit lambda/O2 sensor plug hole in exhaust for S2R and I would guess others. cost me $3 at O'riellys vs $6 plus shipping (so $10 total) ordering online.
Complete headlight sans bucket:
http://www.headlightbmwmotorcycle.com/Product_description.html (http://www.headlightbmwmotorcycle.com/Product_description.html)
Same as the eBay seller; "Superrjerrk". Nice guy too, helped me out with some ? about spring clips and assembly despite the fact I wasn't buying anything from him.
He also sells the chrome ring, spring clips, gasket, reflector etc separately.
Spring clips only, check this out:
http://www.eisparts.com/111941125/Clip+Spring+Set,Headlight+Bucket,+All+Bug+%26+Bus.html (http://www.eisparts.com/111941125/Clip+Spring+Set,Headlight+Bucket,+All+Bug+%26+Bus.html)
Don't think they are a match but I'm sure they could be tweaked to work.
Turn signal relay/flasher:
Norvita EP35, $12. It's also LED compatible so no need for resistors when using LED's.
Spark plug wires:
NGK CR5 8515 premium wire set:
http://summerlandautosport.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=2483 (http://summerlandautosport.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=2483)
$14.79, which is by far the cheapest I found anywhere else. Next closest was $18 and most placed charged over $20. VG wires too.
Anyone know about cheaper steering head bearings for a 2000 900ie? Stockers are over 50 bucks a piece. I'm thinking Timkin number?
Quote from: puddles on April 06, 2014, 07:25:23 AM
Anyone know about cheaper steering head bearings for a 2000 900ie? Stockers are over 50 bucks a piece. I'm thinking Timkin number?
The Timken part # is hard to find and they are actually more expensive than OE. Weird I know but I tried going down that path. All Balls Racing has tapered bearings for your Monster for around $50 for the pair. Motowheels/Speedymoto for around $60 I believe.
The Timkens are $75 EACH if you can even find em.
Thanks Buck. Saved me a lot of aggravation and coin. I ordered from all balls.
Quote from: puddles on April 06, 2014, 01:57:11 PM
Thanks Buck. Saved me a lot of aggravation and coin. I ordered from all balls.
Cool, glad I could help! I literally lol'd the first time I called the dealer for those and was told $100. Thought for sure Timken would have a $12 equivalent. They do have a common one that's literally 1mm narrower otherwise the same thing in that $10-$12 range. I think even $50 is over priced for some fukn bearings.
Sorry if it's been posted already, but FIVE BUCKS for what is probably the BEST filter you can get (according to Ducatiz's filter forensics thread)
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=hf153+filter&Search.x=0&Search.y=0 (http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=hf153+filter&Search.x=0&Search.y=0)
Quote from: bond0087 on May 28, 2012, 03:33:10 PM
How to pull your alternator cover for free or for under a few dollars:
If you are going to take off your alternator cover (or stator cover, whatever you want to call it) , you need a tool to pull the cover off of the engine. If you were to pry along the edges, it would probably never seal again. There is a special tool from Ducati for removing the cover, or you could buy an aftermarket version for roughly $25-$40 I think. Alternatively, you could use a regular puller, for example a timing gear puller.
Autozone stocks a timing gear puller for $15, part brand/number OEM 27009. The great thing about this tool is that it is one of Autozone's loan-a-tools, so you can borrow it for free. After that, you just need to get a pair of M6 (I think.. it could be M5, I would check first) bolts that thread into the alternator cover where the inspection cover comes off. You'll probably need some washers also, unless you can find a pair of M6 flange head bolts easily. You really don't need to even buy those, though, because if you're taking the cover off, you probably already have a wealth of removed fasteners that will work sitting around. Just take those and some washers, use your rented puller, and return it to Autozone afterwards for a full refund of your deposit.
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27009/image/4/)
Just to be clear, the bolts go through the slots on either side of the tool, with washers in between the bolt head and the tool, because the slot may be wider than the bolt head. The bolts are then threaded into the inspection cover holes, and then the middle part is turned until it makes contact with the shaft, then turned some more in order to pull the cover off. If it is difficult to pull the cover, you've missed a bolt (or have a much lower definition of difficult than I do). I say this because I started turning it and it was difficult, and then I realized that I missed a bolt on the cover, behind the sprocket cover.
If you're like me, I know what you're thinking when you see that tool: "Well that looks fine for the most part, but is that sharp tip going to ruin something when I start pulling with it?" The answer is no; there is nothing for the tip to poke, so instead, the contact area is a ring right around the conical section, and the load is distributed evenly along the inner diameter of the shaft (at least on my M750 engine, I'd be surprised if it was different on other engines, but I would also double check if I were you).
Of course, there are other manufacturers of the same type of tool (Performance Tool W87010, for example), and probably other stores that will gladly rent you one, but for those in the US, I think Autozone will be the easiest.
Disclaimer: I didn't actually use this exact one, nor did I rent it from Autozone. I am 99.99% sure that this will work, though. I had a seemingly identical tool sitting around from something else, so I used that, and then I saw that this one was available for rent at Autozone when I was looking for something else.
Worked for me (00 M750) 2 M6x1 bolts about 1 1/2 inches long and couple washers good to go.
I was able to find this oil pressure sensor at Rock Auto. It fits my 2001 750 Monster. Airtek 1S10841, Made in Germany, specs are 0.3-0.55 bar. Also had this # GM 55581588. Chevrolet Aveo.
At my door for $15 & change.
Quote from: scaudill on February 21, 2015, 03:52:53 AM
I was able to find this oil pressure sensor at Rock Auto. It fits my 2001 750 Monster. Airtek 1S10841, Made in Germany, specs are 0.3-0.55 bar. Also had this # GM 55581588. Chevrolet Aveo.
At my door for $15 & change.
Nice tip, I need one of those. How did you confirm the specs of the OE pressure sensor? There are quite a few that are M8X1.0, only one I'd recall actually working was from a VW.
Also, not that the crap plating Ducati uses is worth *much*, but it does have some kind of protection from the elements. I'd be concerned with that raw steel bolt rusting all to hell within one season.
This one looks like it is Cad plated.
Scaudill: OOC why did you choose the Airtex over the GM part for $5 more? also, how did you determine which pressure rating to go with? a casual search turns up that the Ducati supposedly trips at a higher level, 1.4 bars of pressure .055 would trigger the light easier, yes?
To be honest when I found one that had the correct looking electrical socket I jumped on it. I think I read in this same thread that lots of people in the UK use this pressure rating with no problem.
The description at Rock Auto catalog there where pictures of top, bottom and side. That's good enough for me.
Sterling
Based on Scaudill's tip I ordered the Airtex part and it indeed is a perfect fit, M8x1.25 thread and includes the crush washer unlike Ducati. I also confirmed that the OE unit operates at .4-.7 bars of pressure so this should be perfect. I like the way it looks, too.
(http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af202/johnnyblaze19761/2015-03-19%2012.53.32_zpsxaiotbis.jpg) (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/johnnyblaze19761/media/2015-03-19%2012.53.32_zpsxaiotbis.jpg.html)
If you ever need one fast, Auto Zone and Advance Auto stock the "Wells" branded version with the same part #.
Hi guys few days ago i put the bike inside "to my garage" as i wanted to give it a nice fresh up for the nice weather that is coming so i clean it good change oil n filter 10-40 shell full synth. polish exhaust pipes and because few months ago i had some issues with my pick up sensor i decide that is time for me to change it, so i went to my local dealer and he gave me the price of 90 â,¬ after some search on the net i found that the same sensor from a fiat might fit, i made some further digging and you know what magneti marrelli pick up sensor from a fiat seicento is an exact fit. I paid 25â,¬ and it works perfectly.... just check the length to be right because it may effect the resistans Ω of the sensor...
If you want new vacuum lines for your carby Monster, these are perfect in every way;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171180079400 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171180079400)
Same inside and outside diameter as OE. Not sure how long they'll last, but I stocked up on several.
And yeah I know you can get regular hose at any old Auto Parts store, but having the perfect metric size is nice IMO, and metric hose is difficult to find in the U.S.
shame they'll cost me 800% of the item price in postage! :P
Quote from: Rudemouthsky on April 02, 2014, 08:13:47 AM
Complete headlight sans bucket:
http://www.headlightbmwmotorcycle.com/Product_description.html (http://www.headlightbmwmotorcycle.com/Product_description.html)
Same as the eBay seller; "Superrjerrk". Nice guy too, helped me out with some ? about spring clips and assembly despite the fact I wasn't buying anything from him.
He also sells the chrome ring, spring clips, gasket, reflector etc separately.
Spring clips only, check this out:
http://www.eisparts.com/111941125/Clip+Spring+Set,Headlight+Bucket,+All+Bug+%26+Bus.html (http://www.eisparts.com/111941125/Clip+Spring+Set,Headlight+Bucket,+All+Bug+%26+Bus.html)
Don't think they are a match but I'm sure they could be tweaked to work.
Turn signal relay/flasher:
Norvita EP35, $12. It's also LED compatible so no need for resistors when using LED's.
Spark plug wires:
NGK CR5 8515 premium wire set:
http://summerlandautosport.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=2483 (http://summerlandautosport.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=2483)
$14.79, which is by far the cheapest I found anywhere else. Next closest was $18 and most placed charged over $20. VG wires too.
Is there any place to buy the NGK CR5 wires in a store? Or alternative?
Many Duc throttle bodies use this Fuel Pressure Regulator # 283.4.003.1A priced @ $155
This is a direct replacement, Weber 3.0 bar.... $65
https://www.powersportparts.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=4096813 (https://www.powersportparts.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=4096813)
I verify that it works!!
[thumbsup] thanks
OE style side-outlet fuel fiter for carbureted bikes:
WIX 33087 - has 5/16" inlet and outlet
Automotive application '71-'88 Dodge Colt/Challenger, '83-'89 Mitsubishi
Comprehensive application list here: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartApplications.aspx?Part=33087
Similar filter:
WIX 33053 - has 1/4" inlet and outlet
Automotive application '67-'87 Nissan, '76-'77 Toyota
Comprehensive application list here: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartApplications.aspx?Part=33053
Any idea where to get cheaper oil delivery/return pipes for S2R?
Part #s:
Both of these would equal about $300 which seems a bit insane...
You could try aftermarket Earl's/Aeroquip/etc fittings and line, but I wager it'd not be much less.
And they'd not be the O-ring style fittings, just AN.
you could have them made locally by a shop.. . do not think they would come cheaper if ordered from FrenTubo
Seeing lots of aftermarket gear shift foot levers on ebay for $20 for 09 and later Monsters.
Seems to be a void for 08 and earlier; little surprised to see that; I do see some reverse shift levers that remove the linkage (does this mean shifting is in the opposite order?).
Anyone know where to get aftermarket pre 08 monster shifters for under; lets say $30?
hope this helps,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Brake-Shift-Pedal-Lever-for-DUCATI-848-1098-1198-S4R-S2R-Monster-R-ST2-ST4/232685155947?hash=item362d1db66b:g:up0AAOSwFtZamhsS&vxp=mtr
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on April 05, 2018, 05:11:58 AM
hope this helps,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Brake-Shift-Pedal-Lever-for-DUCATI-848-1098-1198-S4R-S2R-Monster-R-ST2-ST4/232685155947?hash=item362d1db66b:g:up0AAOSwFtZamhsS&vxp=mtr
thanks; tried that but its a
break lever; looking for a normal
pre 2008 Monster gear shift foot lever
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on April 05, 2018, 05:11:58 AM
hope this helps,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Brake-Shift-Pedal-Lever-for-DUCATI-848-1098-1198-S4R-S2R-Monster-R-ST2-ST4/232685155947?hash=item362d1db66b:g:up0AAOSwFtZamhsS&vxp=mtr
Those guys are smokin' crack.
Shift and brake levers are not interchangeable across those models.
Monsterparts has a nice adjustable billet shifter that fits M696, M796, M1100, and all prior Monsters:
https://monsterparts.com/products/r-l-apex-ducati-monster-shift-lever
Quote from: DuciD03 on April 05, 2018, 10:21:47 AM
thanks; tried that but its a break lever; looking for a normal pre 2008 Monster gear shift foot lever
Quote from: Speeddog on April 05, 2018, 11:15:32 AM
Those guys are smokin' crack.
Shift and brake levers are not interchangeable across those models.
Monsterparts has a nice adjustable billet shifter that fits M696, M796, M1100, and all prior Monsters:
https://monsterparts.com/products/r-l-apex-ducati-monster-shift-lever
sorry . . sent wrong link . . .
I hear you Sppeddog . . but he wantwd something on thw cheap . . .
Quote from: DarkMonster620 on April 05, 2018, 12:42:12 PM
sorry . . sent wrong link . . .
I hear you Speeddog . . but he wanted something on the cheap . . .
Looking for "Alternatives to expensive Ducati parts" as per title; under $30 seems reasonable (no?); seeing lots of post billet aluminum 09 gear shifters for under that price; some look like they fit; but I'm guessing the main hole where the brass (or bronze) rotation connector point is a different size ... then there's an offset on the shift rod connecting point and the length of the connecting tab on the shifter is critical also.
don't get me wrong DuciDO3 . . . I have had not so good experiences with said levers, specially the area you mention . . .the connection to the transmission itself, simple rounds itself after a few thousand kms . . . very few of the good quality levers are to be found, my recommendation, just replace as a whole .. .. .. gimme a few mins to 2hrs and will try to fetch some of the sites from my links folder . . .
You'll get what you pay for, if you're lucky.
Those EBay levers that DarkMonster linked to are a good general example of the low budget parts available there.
They say that the levers fit 848, S2R, ST2, etc.
But it's impossible for the levers to fit all those.
With delivery at 1.5 weeks - 1 month.
IMO, those are brutal compromises on quality and delivery in exchange for a low price.
Quote from: Speeddog on April 05, 2018, 02:49:07 PM
You'll get what you pay for, if you're lucky.
Those EBay levers that DarkMonster linked to are a good general example of the low budget parts available there.
They say that the levers fit 848, S2R, ST2, etc.
But it's impossible for the levers to fit all those.
With delivery at 1.5 weeks - 1 month.
IMO, those are brutal compromises on quality and delivery in exchange for a low price.
yaaaa; understand and agree; looked at the monster parts shifter speeddog linked to, and its nice... and spend-y too; and OEM's probably what $130? Appreciate stuff that lasts and is competitively priced; Ducati Monsters themselves are in that category, and I can appreciate the design and engineering that has gone into components, is it better than Jap bikes?; but then you look at OEM parts prices and yipes!
Curiosity got the better of me last night; ...was tired ... clicked the buy button ... and as an experiment, and not to refute the more knowledgeable ones here; it wasn't too much to loose; I ordered a billet aluminum one; comes from china was $26; delivery free! ... and will arrive in 3 weeks to 2 months ... lol, that's why the delivery's free ... well see about fit and finish when it arrives.
Fuel Filter for S4R/S4RS, and others: part#42540151A - I think the last I checked, dealer cost was ~$38 or so.
It's a Mahle KL97- direct from Mahle it's $9.
https://mahle.partnumber.company/kl-97-fuel-filter-ducati-monster-kl97-hypermotard-mahle?gclid=CKTTifWfzdQCFZSNswodP2AKeg
s2r 06 wheel bearing mining of info as per quote! [thumbsup]
Quote from: RB on July 19, 2018, 05:01:10 AM
this is a bit old, but I am just getting to finishing this project.
Here are the part numbers for the rear wheel bearings and seals replacement for the SSS eccentric:
- 2x SKF 6007, OR, 1x SKF BAH0062, double row bearing.... drive side
- 1x NK42/30, OR, TAF425230-IKO, needle/roller bearing 30mm.... wheel side
- 2x Seals OAS-42X52X4-NBR.... wheel side bearing seals
I bought an entire kit from Ducati Mondo on fleabay....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eccentric-rear-hub-full-refurb-bearing-kit-for-Ducati-Monster-S2R-800-05-07-06/150976015226?
Check out AliExpress, yes it's China.
many parts, I got a complete body kit for about 20% of what it was going to cost me to repaint ( with me doing the prep) and painted and decaled to my spec's
easy fit and looked great till i crashed, now gone full Carbon fibre from Ali all very good quality and fit.
also rear sets so cheap good quality, fully adjustable and survived crash with no damage, I'm changing the foot pegs supplied cos I'm old and 80 mm pegs are to short, new ones from Ali so much choice.
went looking for a body kit for a 97 600 ss, could not find one, contacted my favourite supplier/ manufacture and he is going to make one for me, so cant pregnant dog about the service.
with Covid delivery times are make the beast with two backsed up but that seems mostly to be Fedx more than suppliers.
Returns (haven't done one yet) and disputes are dealt with quickly and easily.
I have had some things that weren't great but so cheap just reordered different item and reimbursed from supplier