In need of assistance:
I'm trying to get some info from Ignitech on this new unit from them and no response yet.
Not sure which plug from the TCIP4 unit goes to which coil?
The manual I have says (orange wire to coil 1) and (white wire to coil 2)
But which is coil 1 and which is 2?
Other than the "Horizontal" and "Vertical" terminology, what coil would be considered #1 and #2?
I see them labeled as (input for pick-up 1) and (input for pick-up 2) in the TCIP4 chart but no correlation to which is which on my bike. (2001 750 with a 2002 750 motor)
Any help?
I guess the true question is...
Is the front cylinder (horizontal) the #1 Or is the rear cylinder (vertical) considered the #1 according to Ignitech?
On my old 900 the wires originated from common white and black sleeves for each set of connectors, but I had to guess from there. This cut the odds down. Then there are the large and small connectors to give some guidance cutting the odds down again. I used paint dots to code them once correct. That and a bit of a hunch and it worked. Getting the firing incorrect will give a mifire on start up which is quite noticable. Maybe I was lucky with the one I got.
Member Ducatiz knows a bit about these units. I would pm him.
Ive only tuned three units on older 900s (93-95 models), and was lucky the wiring corresponded pretty well. Maybe later model wiring doesnt line up as easily, Im not sure.
Quote from: koko64 on July 19, 2015, 04:35:25 PM
On my old 900 the wires originated from common white and black sleeves for each set of connectors, but I had to guess from there. This cut the odds down. Then there are the large and small connectors to give some guidance cutting the odds down again. I used paint dots to code them once correct. That and a bit of a hunch and it worked. Getting the firing incorrect will give a mifire on start up which is quite noticable. Maybe I was lucky with the one I got.
It would only be a misfire if it's the wrong way?
So a 50/50 shot at guessing correct and I would be able to have 2 tries without burning up the TCIP4 or any other ignition parts?
I'm so ready to try and fire her up!
No guarantees ;D.
The Ducati coil wires have different sized spade connectors for + & - which stops that mistake. Shorts and voltage spikes cause damage. That bad ignition timing can cause a backfire or a misfire, you'll know. The ignition box wires have large and small connectors too which helps. You dont have a wiring diagram in your manual? Does Ignitech have an online diagram? I havent visited that site in awhile.
Dont worry, once Howie, Darkmonster 620 or DP are on deck you will have better advice.
I hear that!
There is a wiring diagram.
The TCIP4 only has three connectors
:flywheel plug : one for each coil! Three total!
The one is obvious the other to are interchangeable. ???
One has 2 wires(white &blue)
The other has 3 wires (Orange, brown & green)
The manual states that the orange wire goes to coil 1, the white wire goes to coil 2...
I have my coils labeled "H" and "V" for reference. Or you could consider them front and rear. But 1 and 2? [bang]
The other plugs from the original set-up are for the Tach? ( smaller plug with 2 wires each) Which this unit deletes.
The manual speaks in general terms... Not bike specific.
I must be missing something! [bang]
I would be if I was familiar with the Ignateck module. I agree getting the cylinders wrong would not hurt the unit and you will know you need to switch. I agree with all Koko said. 1 and 2? Like you said, generic. I'm guessing that is to include horizontal and and parallel twins. If your bike is an '01 carbie the green wire that is now on the coil is the tach signal. If you don't have a wiring manual you can download it here: http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do (http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do)
I heard back from Ignitech.
They said give it a shot one way or the other. Shouldn't hurt the unit [Dolph]
I'll try after work today
BIKE SIDE - - - - - IGNITECH
red..............................brown
white...........................blue
yellow.........................yellow
black...........................blue
red..............................red
white...........................orange
black...........................blue
red
brown/green.................white
black
Good to have you back.
Quote from: Speeddog on July 21, 2015, 04:23:05 PM
BIKE SIDE - - - - - IGNITECH
red..............................brown
white...........................blue
yellow.........................yellow
black...........................blue
red..............................red
white...........................orange
black...........................blue
red
brown/green.................white
black
Yeah...already you have 10 wires here and my TCIP4 harness only has 8 wires total.
blue
blue
black...which connects the flywheel pick-ups plug
Blue
white...fits a coil plug
Blue
orange
red...fits another coil plug.
Seems like I'm missing a few
Well after trying the key and ignition..................Nothing, not even the fuel pump was stirring
Lights / signals /brake lights etc. are working fine.
I'm going to try and contact Ignitech again [bang]
Now I REALLY wish I would have bought the proper 900 motor for all this work. [shot] feeling like a true jackass now
[bang] [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang]
Fuel pump? Isnt your bike carbed? If the Ignitech was for a carbed bike with vacuum pump and not electric, you won't hear anything.
Quote from: koko64 on July 21, 2015, 05:37:11 PM
Fuel pump? Isnt your bike carbed? If the Ignitech was for a carbed bike with vacuum pump and not electric, you won't hear anything.
There's a back story here...
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71155.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71155.0)
Not sure exactly what he's done. ;)
Quote from: terse750 on July 21, 2015, 05:08:58 PM
Yeah...already you have 10 wires here and my TCIP4 harness only has 8 wires total.
~~~SNIP~~~
The bike harness has 10 wires, the Ignitech harness has 8.
Bike harness has 4 connectors, as does the Ignitech.
One of the 3-hole connectors on the Ignitech has just one wire, the white one.
Along with what Koko said, your bike is a carbureted M750, yes?
Using the two pickups that trigger off of the flywheel, and are the red & white and yellow & black wires?
Or are you using a 750ie engine and the ie ignition trigger that's mounted to the alternator cover>
ie motor transplant to carbed bike.
See...thats the thing.
Its a 2001 carb 750 bike with a 2002 EFI 750 motor swap ... [wine] Yeah...I got the wrong motor.
Anyhow Ignitech said they had a "plug and play" adapter set-up. I have a picture Igni sent but I guess no attachments
Something tells me I'm in neck deep without a paddle.
I'll start going through things when I get a chance. I really don't know where to start [thumbsdown] not fun
Take some pics of the adapter from IgniTech, and post 'em up.
And the pic(s) from IgniTech as well.
Any progress?
I'll be able to work on her Friday.
How do you guys post pics? Photo bucket ?
i cheat haha. post privately on facebook, then copy the URL and paste it in here with the image coding.
Quote from: terse750 on July 23, 2015, 03:21:33 AM
I'll be able to work on her Friday.
How do you guys post pics? Photo bucket ?
Posting pics FAQ:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=109.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=109.0)
So she's turning over! Got fuel flowing!
I've had her on the charger all day and she finally started showing signs of life.
Going to try some more and check plugs excess gas.
I tried the plugs both ways! No difference so far.
Damn! Damn! Daaaaaamn! so close!
Now she's stumbling wanting to start!
Killed the battrie... [clap]
Some backfiring and carb spitting which I guess is par for the course on a non-tuned bike?
SHE ALIVE!!!!! [thumbsup]
Well she starts! Only thing is she sounds like she's running one one cylinder and can't give any throttle at all without killing...?
Any tips?
I've yet to try and hook up the laptop to run TCIP4 programming, maybe this can help?
There's a facility on the program that tells you how each cylinder is firing which is useful. You will be able to see how they are firing in real time.
Check the plugs, plug wires and coil wires again.
Did you run the previous motor with the FCR's, or did you put them on just now, along with the '02 motor and Ignitech?
You guessed it! FCR's are brand new
Looks like I need to tune and maybe rejet, yes?
Yes a task in itself, but check the wiring, etc if its only running on one. The carbs should at least be set close enough for the bike to run.
All my wiring seems to be properly set. It only really fires up with the white and blue wired plug to the vertical cylinder.
When I switch them, she misfires and backfires just like everyone said she would.
I've tried different plugs and gaps and she still seems to be firing on one cylinder.
With the suggested NGK plugs for my coils (CA exact fit coils) it won't even run today.
With a smaller gap on the same plugs she starts to stumble...even smaller gap she stays run all be it rough.
Still any touch to the throttle and she spits and kills.
I played with the "slow jet"? no significant differences.
When I put the stupid (E3) hot plug? She would take throttle without killing immediately! [thumbsdown]
I know this plug is not what she needs, I think thats the culprit of my fried R/R wire previously.
Next I ran the Ngk DCPR8E at suggested gap and she ran the best of all at idle.
When turning the throttle slowly...
she will climb in RPMs but backfiring all the way still sounding as if she is only running on one cylinder.
Idling sounded somewhat normal though with this set-up.
The FCR's sounded strange idling...like plastic on metal ticking?
Those dudes (FCR's) just dump fuel down to the heads, A? [evil]
My issue with the Ignitech or my lack of PC knowledge is:
that I can't seem to get a connection between my bike while running and the program.
I must need some other software to properly open their system?
When I open it I get an error message upon opening.
It opens the program but give an error every time I try and plug the bike in.
Does anyone know enogh about the Ignitech TCIP4 to help with this one.
Once again I have contacted Ignitech directly through email but still no response.
What driver?or program do I need for the Ignitech PC program????
It seems the timing is off with the ignition? Would you agree from the symptoms? [shot]
BTW she sat idling for a few minutes sounding good until finally killed because I started "blipping" the throttle little by little. She would completely pause (hesitate hard) upon blipping until she coughed and died. I checked for air leaks at the housing, nada
Should I start thinking about manually adjusting the pick-ups?
The 8 range plugs work better ime. Do both cylinders run with 8 heat range plugs? I would use plugs according to the manual.
I needed driver software to use the adaptor cable. You need to try the port selection for a connection. I use the auto connection option.
Are the plugs fouling? What jetting do the carbs have as delivered? Stock or open airbox?
Members with 750s with FCRs may have a base setting to try. The 60 slow/pilot jets may be too rich.
Pick ups should have been set to factory specs for sure.
Quote from: koko64 on July 26, 2015, 10:21:14 AM
The 8 range plugs work better ime. Do both cylinders run with 8 heat range plugs. I would use plugs according to the manual.
I needed driver software to use the cable. You need to try the port selection for a connection. I use the auto connection option.
Are the plugs fouling? What jetting do the carbs have as delivered? Stock or open airbox?
Members with 750s with FCRs may have a base setting to try.
They do both work with the 8's but giving it gas she bogs down and misfires/backfires.
I'll check and see what I can do about the program options.
Plugs are not fouling.
I got the FCRs from CA so....
Fuel mixture screw 3/4 turn
Slow Air Screw 1-1/2 turns
Float 9mm
Main jet 155
Main air jet 200
slow jet 60
needle EMT
needle clip 3rd from top
Pod air filters
Super stubby wide inner diameter GPR cans.
Heres a video! She doesn't sound to bad in this....but when I'm going higher in rpms she is starts flopping like she's on one cylinder. Hard to hear in the poor vid
https://video-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hvideo-xft1/v/t42.1790-2/11747726_1007479979296291_1465525131_n.mp4?efg=eyJybHIiOjYxMCwicmxhIjo2MTB9&rl=610&vabr=339&oh=f11eb2a8eb37c8e413e3dc58475f077e&oe=55B5335A
Are both header pipes getting hot?
Sounds like a single to me.
If you've still got the Mikuni carbs, and it ran OK with them, I'd refit those to make sorting the Ignitech easier.
My last recorded settings on my FCR 39's on my '98 M750:
Mixture screw - 1/2 turn
Slow air screw - 1 1/4 turns
Float height - 9mm
Main Jet - 155
Main air jet - 200
Slow Jet - 52
Needle - EMT
Needle clip - 5th groove
buuuuuuut... I'm running a stock airbox and lid, but no snorkels.
So, both cylinders are functioning. Both headers are hot as hell!
I switched to the mikuni's and same issue. When I give throttle she sputters and mis-fires. I don't think its starving for fuel, but I'm not 100% sure. The plugs do smell a bit of gas when I check them. Not wet though.
It's got to be the Ignitech!? yes?
After trying to get some tech support about what I need to run the program, I'm beginning to think I'm on my own.
Could timing be my issue? I don;t know where else to look.
Are you running the air box or did you just slap the carbs on?
I just slapped the carbs on... 8)
But did fit the filters, but not with clamps :-\
I can certainly snug then up though and see if it helps
Is this the same set up that ran well before you swapped motors? I don't think no clamps are the problem.
If it ran OK before I think the settings on the ignitech, or the timing sensor are your issue. You need to get your pc to communicate with the unit. There's no way around it.
Yeah, same setup.
I hear you loud and clear.
You also need to keep this in one thread like I suggested before.
I'm going to lock the other one. It will be more cohesive.
Porting from the other thread, and subbing to this one...
Quotefrom: terse750 on Today at 09:21:08
Vacuum leaks would be? Tank and carb lines/hoses?
Vacuum leaks would be carb install/sync ports. I don't know how your deal is set up, but maybe something to do with the way the manifolds fit.
Quotefrom: terse750 on Today at 09:21:08
As to the advance... I have not been able to run the ignitech program on my girlfriends laptop.
I get a "Com error" code, clearly I'm not the most savvy with computers
also not having any luck with Ignitech's customer service/tech support Vino!
I just plugged the unit right in and have yet to successfully get it to communicate with my pc/program.
I installed a driver for the connecting plug which goes from the pc via usb to the Ignitech which is something else.
When I try to run the program or open it, I get a error code and thats pretty much it.
I can't help here, but you need to connect to the ignitech. In fact, fixing that should be your first priority.
Quotefrom: terse750 on Today at 09:21:08
How much does the advance affect the bike and in what ways?
A lot. You say timing, I say advance, they are really part of the same phrase "timing advance." I believe ignitech uses a lookup table with rpm and degrees of advance... does it need a TPS, too?
My bad
Ignitech does not need a TPS.
The Ignitech will give you options to click on as to what type of ignition set up is being used and motor configuration. That is first selected. You would need that selected first or the unit wont be able to advance. Got to get that laptop working.
So you installed a driver for the cable? The canned map would probably work ok as a baseline.
So I got the laptop working!
Have not tried any advance yet.
I had it hooked up but didn't know how to set advance. Plus the laptop I'm using shuts off when unplugged.
So now its time to go back out in the 100degree heat and restart this dinosaur pc.
It's set up for 46-2 I think...when running it was registering
Advance 1 = 10
- /max 56
Advance 2 = 10 - /max 55
I have no clue what this means
Did you check the basic configuration?
You need to set the basic configuration. It should need the single pick up, two cyl, 4 stroke kind of description. I say this because the carbed bikes need the dual pick up setting and you have the single pick up ie motor. Thats a fair guess from here without seeing the readouts.
Check what Ignitech have used as a default setting and map for your bike. There are about three screen settings that give different info. There is one that shows the map over the rpm range. Click on the "read" setting to read the supplied map. Interested in what it says. 36 deg max advance sounds good with increments starting from 3 deg base advance. I dont know if the base advance of the ie flywheel and pick up is the same as the carbed bikes or different. Speeddog may know.
If you get totally lost, consider sending the unit to speeddog to be programed for your bikes particular set up. Then its plug and play. Definately worth an hours labour and postage freeing you to complete other tasks on the bike. While speeddog programs your Ignitech you can put 52 slow fuel jets in your carbs and set the needles, etc to his baseline.
I think you best read the bikeboy article on carbed ignition and Ignitech units if you want to do it yourself.
Quote from: koko64 on August 07, 2015, 05:54:03 PM
Click on the "read" setting to read the supplied map. Interested in what it says. 36 deg max advance sounds good with increments starting from 3 deg base advance. I dont know if the base advance of the ie flywheel and pick up is the same as the carbed bikes or different.
The FI bikes aren't really the same with a "base" advance. It's all in the ECU (in this case the ignitech). I don't know how they solve the problem (although I'd like to), but there's 48 teeth with two adjacent teeth missing running at cam speed. The ECU counts teeth and calculates when the next tooth should arrive... When it doesn't, the next tooth to arrive is either 0 or 1 (depending on how the ECU likes math). 15 degrees per tooth, tooth is maybe 5-10 degrees wide. Count on the back side of the tooth... but I forget which tooth is which cylinder.
I know what you are saying, I was trying to keep it simple. ;D
I guess with no flywheel lump, Ignitech are just running a calculated base/idle advance and reading rpm.
Anyway, if T cant map it or set it up, I would suggest sending it out while he works on other stuff. There are still 60 slow jets in those FCRs which may well be chokingly rich.
I've got to figure this thing out! [shot]
She won't even really start without a smaller then recommended plug gap. ???
The basic mapping is set for 48-2 but, the setting they seem to have set as a default shows 46-2.
I'll do some playing around tomorrow.
On another note,
The fcr's don't seem to fit right on the rubber housing.
The Mikuni's sit flat while the fcr's I still see the screw-in adapter.
I've never heard of a 46-2... it is likely they are referring to 46 teeth counted and 2 missing. My background calls that 48 teeth minus 2. If you spin the engine by hand with the sensor out and count the teeth, it will make more sense. "toothed wheel" decoding is loads easier if the total numbers are easy divisors of 360.
So its definitely a mapping issue.
I had her hooked up a minute ago and made a few adjustments and boom...throttle!
But I'm not sure exactly what I did. Now she won't start. lol
I set the max advance on one pickup to around 30 and the base to 18?
She was sounding different so I opened the throttle and she was there!
Before I had a chance to set the other she died.
Plugs look fine, fuel is still flowing...
If I knew where to set the parameters
Pay attention...
http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vignition.html (http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vignition.html)
read it.
At this point...I'm ready to give up.
If I knew someone (speed dog) can map this TCIP4 for my exact setup I WILL PAY! haha
It's clear to me now its not the carbs, vacuum leaks, or anything other than the Ignitech units mapping.
But she won't fire up unless the plug gap is .04 or smaller :'(
now I'm having trouble even with a small gap to fire up
Let me see if I've got a way to test your setup.
I've got a carbie 750 with an Ignitech, but it's running the normal carbie triggers.
I'll do my best to understand that article and the manual.
But it made no sense to me the first go-round
One thing I have noticed, is that the unit I have has a 60-2 label on it but my default set-up for the program is 48-2?
Do your settings look like this?
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/mergatroyd/Ducati%20tech/miscellaneous%20tab_zpsblpmmv38.png)
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/mergatroyd/Ducati%20tech/bike%20tab_zpszgqalqxx.png)
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/mergatroyd/Ducati%20tech/advance%20tab_zpskljgnxxn.png)
@dirtyduc Thats it!
The main difference is that in the drop-down menu its on "special setting"
You said you set Channel 1 to 18 max and 30 start?
Something like that.
Did I fry something? [shot]
I think it was at 18max and 23base to start
And I went 30max and 18base and it was running...it reved up to match the massive amount of idle it needed to start to begin with. I turned it down ( idle screw) and pulled the throttle and she was alive and breathing ( it actually allowed throttle turning).
Now I can't get her to crank. I have a few fresh plugs and adjusting gap to she if she'll fire again
try 10 base
I don't think so.
My theory is:
Channel 1 and Channel 2 are tooth counts.
Based on my estimations, one or both of them is set wrong.
Click the drop down that says "Ducati fuel inj 48-2" and select "Ducati fuel inj 48-2" and click yes when it asks if you want default settings.
I'll have to go double check on a bike in the shed or the other PC... If my theory is correct, base should be the tooth at TDC or the next tooth ATDC, channel 1 is for Cylinder 1, channel 2 is for Cylinder 2. Max is the maximum teeth advance, and works out to 60 crank degrees... which is pretty standard for electronic trickery.
It doesn't run right at ignitech's settings because their tooth count is off, and it doesn't start at your settings because you are even farther off and backwards.
[/theorizing]
Haha I gotta go get some gas! Thats why she's not firing
Alternatively, you can check yourself by doing the following:
Remove spark plugs.
Remove cam sensor.
Rotate engine by hand until you see the recessed gear teeth.
Count the teeth until the first cylinder gets to TDC.
Count the teeth until the second cylinder gets to TDC.
This is how ignitech has it set (red for channel 1, blue for channel 2).
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/mergatroyd/Ducati%20tech/48-2%20with%20ignitech%20settings%20timing%20gear_zpsxhxa8en9.jpg)
Well it wasn't the gas...still not firing
Ahhh I got you dirtyduc.
I've reset to default setting and she's no wanting to run.
I've changed to brand new plugs also
Its to effin hot out there now!
What could I have fried? coils? fuses? wires?
I'll have to check my fuses later.
Quote from: Dirty Duc on August 08, 2015, 10:31:29 AM
Alternatively, you can check yourself by doing the following:
Remove spark plugs.
Remove cam sensor.
Rotate engine by hand until you see the recessed gear teeth.
Count the teeth until the first cylinder gets to TDC.
Count the teeth until the second cylinder gets to TDC.
Do this.
Ignitech may number the teeth 0-45 or 1-46 so you will have to try it both ways. In the picture above, I numbered them 1-46.
I don't remember how you chose to connect the coils... the wire designated 1 should correspond to channel 1. Whichever cylinder that is gets numbered the same as the tooth count in the middle of the window for "Start advance." Subtract 5 and that is "Max advance." Repeat for channel 2.
I must have toasted something.
I'm not getting spark at all now... coils? maybe the Ignitech itself is fried.
I'll have to figure out what isn't working
Any progress?
Well heres an update.
I found a 1999 750 complete motor, oil cooler, manifold tubes only 4hours away from me for 400$
It has 14000mi and shows a dry compression reading of 149psi per cylinder.
Waiting around for the right 900 motor is not an option!
So I'm going to pick up this other 750 next Friday. haha
I've lost hope for my ability to wrangle this beast [bang] (EFI-carb) It's proven to be a costly mistake on my part. (many mistakes!) [shot]
And if not for each and every one of you trying to help me, I would have never made it this far. I was so close! But my van that I use to go to and from work is falling apart and I need alternative transportation back asap! And for less than 500$ I can have it. Not to mention every time I see another motorcycle I get misty eyed... [drool]
So I'm choosing to throw in the towel on this EFI to carby effort.
My other reasons being... I don't feel I can rely on this Ignitech unit and/or the lack of customer service.
I'm not racing this thing! I don't need on the fly custom adjustments, I cruise. Sure it may be nice for those of you advanced enough to utilize it. But I don't even own a laptop, I'm not tech savy.
I just want it to be like all the other carbies...simple [wine]
I've read that others have had issues with the ignitech units and different setups similar to what I'd be running.
I'll be doing another swap next weekend and not sure yet what my plans are for the EFI motor.
Not worried about that until I get the bike going again.
Maybe I'll build a bike around it? I have extra parts already...swing-arm, rear wheel,handlebars, triple, forks! Who knows...at this point I'm going to have to be OK just having a sweet ass 750 or maybe 2. [Dolph]
So I guess I outted myself as a complete jack-ass... [evil]
Anywho,
Going for the gold today. As in, motor swap madness continues!
[beer]
YEEEEESSSS!!!!!!!
Fired right up! And it's got throttle response!
Just had to drill the mounts out a bit and now I need to get the clutch sorted out.
Doesn't seem to work right with my Obre..slave cylinder. But I have the original slave for this motor.
Guess I'll have to figure out the dealieo
Anyone care to chime in?
Anyone?...
Anyone?...lol
What's up with the clutch?
I got it! [thumbsup]
It seems the slave pushrods are different. [clap]
I switched the rod with my old one. [bacon](the 99 motor had a shorter pushrod).
Putting everything back together now. Rear-end, rear-sets pipes etc.
Maybe by tomorrow I'll be testing it out ;D
Glad you have a runner. [thumbsup]
Yep. Keep the push rods paired to their era slave cylinders.
Quote from: koko64 on August 22, 2015, 01:09:59 PM
Glad you have a runner. [thumbsup]
Yep. Keep the push rods paired to their era slave cylinders.
Thanks!
Going to go through her with a fine tooth comb tomorrow morning.
Just have to torque down a few things...torque wheels, lube the chain, check belt tension, secure my controls, test brakes, steering damper...
Thats about it. [beer]
Holy bleeping HELLFIRE!!!! I did it! [shot]
After running it in a bit I'll have to go through a valve check to see whats going on.
P.S. There is a lot to a tiny bike! A lot of small stuff...geez [bow_down]
So its official! [wine]
Got a few small test rides in...carbs will need some tuning for sure.
She sputters on full throttle rips. Roll-ons are pretty good. Low RPM grabs are good.
I don't doubt the slow jet will need changing just as was suggested. [bow_down]
The FCRs sound really cool running! [thumbsup] Not to mention they slapped that 750 in the ass and said... GEEET! [evil]
So I'm really hoping this thread can be done ;D Only miles will tell
[clap] Thanks to all who help an impulsive nit-wit such as myself get my duc back on the road [clap]
Start an FCR tuning thread if you need to.
Let us know how you go.