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 1 
 on: Today at 02:05:34 AM 
Started by buzzer - Last post by buzzer
headlight brackets took some thinking about, but I had plenty of time to do it lying in the sun! thank goodness for the Ipad and Ipencil!. I sent the drawing off to the water jet cutters and they cut them out of some nice 25mm plate, they came out well. I also designed them so i could mount the custom made indicators.



the carbon battery tray came out OK, I initially made an alloy one, but it hung down too low and spooled the lines, so I made the carbon one stepped so the battery can sit in a recess to the side. its going to be tight with the electrics!





Here it is inprofile, not long before i can take it all apart for painting!  At this stage its really important to try to mount everything...  you don't want to get it all painted/ powder coated and then find you are missing a bracket for say a horn!  I also wheeled it around and found that the forks hit the tank...  the lock stops are not adjustable on this so I am gong to have to extend them before painting...

I played around for hours trying to decide on high, low, beak type mudguard, but decided in the end to go low with a carbon one... with the advantage of a nice fork brace as well. Just ordered some orange fork gaiters, will see what that looks like!




 2 
 on: Yesterday at 11:35:43 AM 
Started by buzzer - Last post by buzzer
I'm familiar with cerakote, and it would be fine over bare steel. Aluminum, and more so magnesium, are different animals and require a conversion coating to chromate the surface to avoid corrosion under the topcoat. Aluminum begins to oxidize instantly in the presence of oxygen leaving aluminum oxide on the surface.

Don't be surprised if you see bubbling under the coating.

people have been using it on bare alloy for years with great results...  even the aerospace industry use it on bare alloy. no need for an etch primer, it's designed as a single coat process.

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 10:57:38 AM 
Started by buzzer - Last post by ducpainter
I'm familiar with cerakote, and it would be fine over bare steel. Aluminum, and more so magnesium, are different animals and require a conversion coating to chromate the surface to avoid corrosion under the topcoat. Aluminum begins to oxidize instantly in the presence of oxygen leaving aluminum oxide on the surface.

Don't be surprised if you see bubbling under the coating.

 4 
 on: Yesterday at 10:24:30 AM 
Started by Popeye the Sailor - Last post by Stella
Evening Ducatters.  Friday evening  Vino!
I hear you.  Jan and I had a motorcycle/RV trip to France planned this May..... now cancelled due to Jan's 90 year old Mum having a tooth extraction... (long story) which led to a hip replacement op being delayed... which impacts our trip.  Non-trip.  I have no resentment, it's just how these things can go when you have oldies to care for and about. 


Ugh.  So sorry about the MIL and her current challenges (and also about the non-trip).  She's lucky to have you both. This parenting the parents is really rough sometimes.

I talked with my dad's Dr. the other day about the meds he really needs. Further convo needs to happen with the siblings but I think we'll all be in agreement on seriously considering stopping some.  As long as he's as comfortable as we can make him....


In other news, I was behind in home projects with this last trip.  Painted a few bedroom walls and trim late into the night and this morning in prep for a new bed finally being delivered, supposedly, this afternoon (ordered early Nov.).

Time to clean the chaos and get outside.


Welcome back Mary!  Betting Francis was happy to see you!

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 09:40:12 AM 
Started by buzzer - Last post by buzzer
Did you use anything like Alodine on the bare aluminum before painting to avoid corrosion?

no, Cerakote is a ceramic coating that goes straight on bare metal.  It needs a blast profile though using an aluminium oxide grit to get good adhesion.  at the same time I did the hubs I did on old water pump body as a test piece...  after 24 hours the coating was still quite soft, but after 5 days when it was fully cured it was hard and incredibly scratch resistant.  I was VERY pleased with the result! 

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 08:04:14 AM 
Started by kopfjäger - Last post by kopfjäger
908-3 at Hillclimb event.

https://youtu.be/A7CMzpYqoC4?si=aZ_UdUzDILcg0wnz

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 06:55:54 AM 
Started by buzzer - Last post by ducpainter
Did you use anything like Alodine on the bare aluminum before painting to avoid corrosion?

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 06:12:20 AM 
Started by Popeye the Sailor - Last post by Howie
Good morning coffee

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 05:53:47 AM 
Started by Popeye the Sailor - Last post by LMT
 coffee coffee  Good morning, I made it home yesterday without incident. 

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 04:41:23 AM 
Started by buzzer - Last post by buzzer
I have wanted to try Cerakote for a while due to the great reports of its durability and finish. So I purchased a pint to see how it went… its not cheap! I read the instructions on their knowledge base and it seemed simple enough so I thought I would start with the wheel hubs.

First job was stripping the thick powder coat off, and for this I used some commercial paint stripper. As you can see this makes short work of removing it! the stuff you buy from DIY stores is next to useless for this.

Next prep for the coating. I gave the hubs a good blasting with aluminium oxide grit to give it a key, then cleaned then in hot water with some detergent in. I never use washing up liquid for things like this (or rubbing down paintwork) as it contains silicone, which kind of defeats the object of trying for a clean surface! I then popped them in the warm oven for two reasons…. one is to make sure they are completely dry, and secondly if you mask them while warm, the tape sticks MUCH better. With regard to masking, I put the tape on, and then brush the edges with a riffler file and then you can peel it off perfectly.

Next i gave them a single thin coat of Cerakote. I used a paper strainer as they suggested. Its very thin, but highly pigmented and covers really well. It flash dries in 45 mins, and is handleable in a few hours, but it takes 5 days to fully cure. I was impressed with the ease of application and the finish!











with the hubs now painted it’s time to try something I haven’t done before, and that’s wheel building. I watched a few videos on Youtube and managed to loan a jig off my mate, which actually proved really useful! I got special dispensation to do it on the dining room table as I knew it would take a while and I wanted to be able to sit down!

I was actually surprised how easy it was! I managed to get the correct offset, and up and down and side to side within half a mm.. here they are complete with new bearings and seals.










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