Hello ...

Was a weird weather day here today ... It was raining only alongside one of our toll highways about half a mile to each side ... Odd ..

In other news, finishing another lap round the Sun this coming week ... 2x Almost didn't ... Think my guardian angel is either overworked or they are working as a tag team ... AND I thank he/she/them ... 

 


To those who celebrate:  Happy Easter. 


A gorgeous day so far - not too hot, not too cold. Will sit in a park with the pooch later after enjoying a slow morning so far. 

Did even more digging into said pup's recommended procedure scheduled for Tuesday and opting out of a feeding tube but still doing the biopsies. The result of skipping the fun weekend       to make clear-headed, uninterrupted decisions so I guess there's that. 

Enjoy the day. 

morning

Good morning

 

It's a possibility. Jerry did say the carbs and ignition parts worked fine when swapped to his Monster.
So the common denominator is the rear head whether its valve guides, valve faces, valve seats or valve shims.

I'm thinking back to the mid 80's when cars sucked. They had relatively primitive electronic ignitions, carburetors, and were basically pieces of shit.

The biggest problem Ford had during that period was valve guides, and when they were bad...every single one...they idled like shit.

Just sayin'

Quote from: Howie on April 04, 2026, 07:46:47 AMCheck the clearance and  resistance on the vertical pick up .6-.8mm, 95-105ohms.  Coils too, primary 3.8-5.2 ohms, secondary15.6 -23.4 ohms

Maybe rear pick up gap is a bees dick wider. It has been suggested that inductive pick ups get a weaker signal at low rpm.

Fastbikesgear in NZ recommend a closer than oem clearance for the pick up coils to improve idle and low rpm running. They suggest 0.4 - 0.5mm due to the weaker signal at low rpm, or as close as possible plus a bees dick for thermal expansion.

Another thing. Carb synch is sometimes more of a compromise on some bikes than others. Some bikes, once carb synch is set, have an even synch all the way from idle to higher revs, while others require you to decide where the less than ideal synch should be. It may just be a 500 rpm zone, but If that zone can't be easily tuned out with jetting, cam or ignition changes, then you have to decide where to put it.

I reckon I'll re-read the whole thread again to get my head around it. It certainly seems like you have gone through a long diagnostic list better than most.

A thought, tick over quality can sometimes be related to closing shim clearances or valve/valve seat condition.

If a bike has been rescued from a salvage yard and been sitting for years, a valve seat/valve face may be pitted due to the fall of the cams exposing it when the bike was turned off.

Seen and heard of rear exhaust valve seats (iirc) being weathered from bikes that sat. A couple of guys alerted me to that years ago when I bought a salvage bike from Japan.