The Official DMF Bicycle Thread

[stateprez]

Really, I think the hardest part is really pinpointing the precise problem...and I think I'm starting to frustrate the guy at the bike shop....

I've never been one of those super analytical fitting/measurement guys- I fill in at a shop right now on weekends, and have 5 bicycles.  They all fit a little different, all ride a little different, but I've learned to expect that.  No matter how much measuring, calculating, etc. they're going to be a little different. 

Usually somewhere down the tinkering road I say f*ck it, and just go ride.  I'm about to go mess with my new one this afternoon- if it wasn't raining I'd probably be riding it straight out of the box.

[Monster Dave]

Anyone ever notice any "resistance" when spinning your pedals backwards (by hand)?

Over lunch I was checking out my bike looking for clues and notice that it takes what I would consider an unusual amount effort to spin the crank/pedals/chain/rear cassette in reverse. Since there's no drive resistance (as compared to when pulling the chain forward and driving the rear wheel) I was surprised to see that it's rather hard to spin it...

I'm not sure where the resistance is coming from - the crank or the rear cassette....I wonder if that's the problem??

[triangleforge]

You could isolate them from one another by "derailing" the chain off the front chainrings, toward the inside -- like you'd dropped the chain. You can then spin the cranks either direction and (by holding the chain up off the rear cogset) spin the rear wheel independently to see if you've got a problem with either. I assume you've checked to make sure there's not a brake rubbing?

[Monster Dave]

You could isolate them from one another by "derailing" the chain off the front chainrings, toward the inside -- like you'd dropped the chain. You can then spin the cranks either direction and (by holding the chain up off the rear cogset) spin the rear wheel independently to see if you've got a problem with either. I assume you've checked to make sure there's not a brake rubbing?

That's a good idea, I'll try that.

Yes, though I appreciate you asking (because you never know!!), but checking for brake rubbing was the first thing I checked!!

[Monster Dave]

After doing a good bit of riding the past few days, some research on a couple of ideas, and tweaking my new steed a little bit, I think I've got the little problems with it figured out. Tomorrow I'll be getting her into the shop for some fine tuning but I have high expectations for a MUCH improved ride this weekend!

Even with these small setbacks, I really love my new bike - it's awesome.  I suppose getting her dialed in correctly is part of what goes along with upgrading!

[cokey]

My question got swallowed up by daves new bike. Lol..

[Monster Dave]

My question got swallowed up by daves new bike. Lol..

Sorry. I'll be mumm for a while. 

[sbrguy]

got to remember your new bike is geared a little higher with the 11 gear but after that its gernerally the same as tehe old 12-25 but if you put a 12-25 or such on the back it will be identical for the top ring, but hte 34 in the front will still be much much lower gearing than a 39.

best bet is to put a 12-25 or 12-27 whatever you want on the new bike, its not hard to do but if tyou dont' have the tools for it its impossible you need a chain wip and a cog removal tool, not much tools but something else to buy.

get the bike checked out if the cranks don't spin easily with the chain off of it, then something is wrong with the bottom bracket.

[Monster Dave]

    <----my face on Saturday after I solved the problem with my bike!

As it turned out it was the stock wheels that were dogging everything. I swapped them for the aero bladed wheels that I had as upgrades on my other bike and WOW did that make a huge difference!! Unfortunately, my other bike has been reduced to a carcass sitting in the garage. I feel sorta bad seeing it like that but I'll put the stock wheels from my new bike on it so it can still be ridden from time to time.

I can't even begin to describe how much better it is now - the difference was dramatic. I calculated that because of the weight difference between the stock wheels and the better replacements, I reduced nearly 1.5lbs of rolling resistance!! That's a lot...and I nearly blasted off when I took it out for a test ride. On a flat stretch of road I hit 27mph!!! Needless to say, the gearing is perfect. Even up climbs where I was hitting 12-13mph I jumped up to 16-18mph. What a difference!

Before we left the bike shop I had my bike weighted. With 2 bottles, 2 cages, pedals, computer, and my swapped out wheel set, it weighs in at just 18lbs! According to Felt that's what it weighted out of the box minus all that stuff.

Oh before I forget, you guy's will get a kick out of this:

The highlight of training on Saturday was when my sweetheart (SheMonster) hopped on her Monster and did some motor-pacing work with me! It was awesome! She was having a great time hanging right next to me up some long climbs, then would take off for some fun of her own down long stretches or road and then would come back and ride with me, she even tailed me to help me motivate me to go faster! It was great! I only wish someone would have had a camera to take a picture!

Is that love or what??!!  

[Randimus Maximus]

pssssst.....sell the old bike and switch to a standard (53/39) crank.

[Monster Dave]

pssssst.....sell the old bike and switch to a standard (53/39) crank.

Try'n to slow me down there old man?? 

[Randimus Maximus]

Try'n to slow me down there old man?? 

Nope. Trying to speed you up even more.

This old man rides a standard crank, and I'm not nearly as strong as you. No to mention the altitude disadvantage I have.

[Monster Dave]

Nope. Trying to speed you up even more.

This old man rides a standard crank, and I'm not nearly as strong as you. No to mention the altitude disadvantage I have.

I was only kidding about he "old man" comment since you just had a birthday!! 

What are the advantages (one way or the other) for one or the other (standard or compact?).

[Randimus Maximus]

I was only kidding about he "old man" comment since you just had a birthday!! 

What are the advantages (one way or the other) for one or the other (standard or compact?).

I work in the car business.  I can handle any comments on my age.

As far as advantages of the standard (53/39) vs. compact (50/34) crank is concerned, I'll refer back to the comments I made prior to your purchase of the F5:

MD,

My F3 has the exact same gearing as the F5 you're looking at.

Because of the hills/mountains here in Colorado, many riders ride triples or compact doubles.

While I've been tempted to change gearing on mine, I never have.  I just have to work a little harder on the steep climbs.

My opinion is that you'll be fine with the stock setup on the F5, since the small crank ring on your current bike is already a 39.  You'll definitely have more speed when you're in the big ring, and I know that is something you're looking for. 

The only thing you may want to consider is swapping the rear cassette from the 11-25 to a 12-27 or 11-28 that Shimano makes for a little lower gearing on the climbs or to be similar to what you have currently.  That would be a relatively inexpensive swap.  However, try the bike out with the standard gearing for a while.  You may not even feel the need to change it.

That being said, a standard crank is going to make you work a little harder, but you'll go faster.

You're already noticing that you're not working as hard (based on your calorie consumption comments in the "get fit" thread), that's due to the "easier" gearing on the compact crank. 

Sure, you can go faster by upping your cadence.  A standard crank with "harder" gearing will get you there too.

[Monster Dave]

I work in the car business.  I can handle any comments on my age.

As far as advantages of the standard (53/39) vs. compact (50/34) crank is concerned, I'll refer back to the comments I made prior to your purchase of the F5:

That being said, a standard crank is going to make you work a little harder, but you'll go faster.

You're already noticing that you're not working as hard (based on your calorie consumption comments in the "get fit" thread), that's due to the "easier" gearing on the compact crank. 

Sure, you can go faster by upping your cadence.  A standard crank with "harder" gearing will get you there too.

Gotcha!