Build A Garage...cheaply

[DesmoDiva]

RB, I think the cheapest way to go is to stick build with 2x4 and OSB lumber. In my area, I can build and
sheath an 8'x8' wall for right around $30 in materials. The equivalent size wall made of straw bales costs $55 not including the rebar needed to attach the bales to each other.
   

I would like to know where you came up with the cost for the straw bale.   

And rebar is no longer used in bale construction due to moisture issues.

[bluemoco]

Radient heat flooring. when I build my garage thats what will be installed.

Oh hell yes.  

Even if you don't have the $$ to finish the system, at least get the Wirsbo tubing under the slab before you pour concrete.  You can always connect the heating unit and water supply later.

[acalles]

Radient heat flooring. when I build my garage thats what will be installed. And a 2 post lift too.

+1

If I could build my own shop, this would be #1 on the list. Measure out for the lifts, poor the slab thicker where the lifts will go and run radient heating around the spots for the lifts.

Then a metal building with insulation, and more metal on the inside. Quick, Cheap, Fire resistant, low maintenece.

Use as much natural lighting as possible (clear plastic on the roof, instead of green and windows facing east and south). Paint the floor white. you'll thank me later.

[Bun-bun]

I would like to know where you came up with the cost for the straw bale.   

And rebar is no longer used in bale construction due to moisture issues.

Cost for bales of hay or straw in my area(Norfolk VA) is $5/bale. It takes 11 bales to cover 8x8". What is used now in place of rebar?

[Speedbag]

RB, I think the cheapest way to go is to stick build with 2x4 and OSB lumber. In my area, I can build and
sheath an 8'x8' wall for right around $30 in materials. The equivalent size wall made of straw bales costs $55 not including the rebar needed to attach the bales to each other.
    Here are some convenience/cost saving measures I employed in building my 20x30' garage several years
ago;
1) Build the walls to a height of 10'. The extra 2' of height allows you to spin 8' lumber without hitting the
ceiling joists/lighting. It also allows you to hang things out of the way without banging into them. I've got
bikes hanging from the walls, and a kayak hanging from the ceiling on a pulley system.

2) Install the biggest doors you can. My entry door is 36", and both my vehicle doors are 8x8', instead of 8x7' which is normal. Also, build your own vehicle doors. I built swinging doors from 4x8' 3/4" plywood and 1x6's for $100/each. The cheapest, uninsulated rollup door I could find for 8x8' would have cost $425, more than twice the price.
3)Insulate under the slab. A layer of 6mil plastic over 1" poly boards is a big help on those cold winter nights. In areas where sawdust will not accumulate, use waste carpeting to insulate and cushion your feet. Almost any carpet store will gladly give you old carpet from their next job. Some of them will even deliver it to you.


You do realize that we will need photos, right?

+1 for the most part

My detached shop is 30x33 (local code dictated a max of 1000 sq ft) on a floating slab, storage rafters the full 33' length. It features a 16x7' and 8x7' door on one 30' end, and one 36" walk door and one 5'x6'6" overhead (most used door in the place) on one long wall . 2x4 stick construction, OSB sheathing, insulated, sheetrocked and textured on the inside nicer than my house. I didn't heat the floor (had a friend who has a horror story about them, but I still considered it), but I have a hanging natural gas heater in the corner that keeps it at 45 degrees minimum all the time (doesn't use as much gas as I thought it might). All told I've got about $20K stuck in it. All it needs is a bathroom and running water and I could live out there.  

[DesmoDiva]

Cost for bales of hay or straw in my area(Norfolk VA) is $5/bale. It takes 11 bales to cover 8x8". What is used now in place of rebar?

Your estimate is correct.     I just assumed it was high with out doing the math, my bad.   

Most builders either pin the bales on outside with 1x strapping or pierce the bales (how the rebar was used) with bamboo. 

I'll see if I have any picts of the projects I've worked on.

[Jarvicious]

snip....... But that doesn't really matter for the average garage.

With the folks on here, I'm not so sure this is going to turn into just an average garage.  The OP may even end up with a jet hanger under the main floor.   

I don't have much to say about construction methods (not to the point where I can own my own place yet) but I can tell you that you need to plan on your shop layout before you start building.  Deciding exactly what you're going to be using it for is a good start.  My parents have a 30'/40' garage they built as kind of a do all shop and they way they did it it turned out great for pretty much anything they want to do with it just because they planned ahead. 

How many garage doors are you planning on having and what size?  Dad's garage is divided directly in half by an insulated wall with a separate 7/8 garage door separating the two halves.  The unheated half is basically storage for the Cuda and other misc. bullshit along with one vehicle port and a spot for the Harley/tractor/plow, depending on the season.  He's got a two wide door on that side.  The other side, which he uses as his shop is heated by a standard gas furnace (wood or gas, I guess you can make that choice on your own) and has a 9' garage door (I think) which is where he keeps the big van.

Since you're talking about air lines, I'm assuming your going to have a pretty good sized compressor, so you may think about separating that from your shop as much as possible.  I always hated the noise of that thing running in his shop and would have put it on the other side of that middle wall to dampen the sound.  As far as the air lines go you have a couple of options depending on $$.  The "nicest" way to do it is to run copper pipe to anywhere in the garage you're going to want air.  Someone on this forum did it (don't remember who) and it works well and looks good.  On the other hand, you could just go to Harbor Frieght and buy a shitload of hose and somehow attach it to the wall.  Dad's shop has one of those retractable reels with 50 or so feet of hose that I'm a big fan of. 

Are you going to be welding or painting?  You're going to need a good amount of venthilation and lighting for those kinds of things, not to mention the possibility of a 220 line.  On that note, I got a powdercoat kit for Christmas (a little one) and would love to have a full sized oven for curing as opposed to the toaster oven I found at a pawn shop.  Since I'm assuming you're going to be present when you have the slab poured, you may think about making some sort of recess in the floor either for overhead vehicle work or even mounting some sort of flush mount hydraulic motorcycle lift.  How bad ass would it be just to park your bike on a spot on the floor, strap down the front tire, and have it lift up?  One other thing that retrofitted in my garage (rental, so i can't really build anything into it) is a place for the shit you don't want to get dirty.  My garage is my sanctuary so I have things like a pc (for internet instructions/ music server), a comfy chair, and a minifridge which is the kind of stuff you don't want to have covered in metal shavings.  Such things should go near your workbench, which should be the centerpoint of your shop.  You'll need storage under the bench.  Drawers work well, or you can make small platforms on castors so they roll out and are more accessible.  Old kitchen cabinets are probably pretty easy to come about, not to mention if you build it with 10' cielings you'll have plenty of room on top of the cabinets to store the stuff you don't use often. 

Jesus, sorry about the length.  It took me months of withdrawl after I went off to college to get over having a full shop at my disposal.  I could live in a studio apartment with a micro kitchen just so long as i had a full garage.  You get to start from scratch, anything you want done is possible.  Jealous 

[supakpow2]

Find a local outlet for Habitat for Humanity. They sell many building supplies that have been donated free for extremely cheap prices and the money goes back to HFH.
In Kona we get some awesome deals on stuff (sometimes VERY slightly damaged or not at all) for our remodel. (often donated from building projects in the 10 15 million $ range)  I.E.  $40 a square ft. glass tile for $3, custom doors, electrical supplies,etc.

Pole barn style construction with purlens can also be cost effective. You often can find used metal roofing in areas where farming and other industrial building is common.

BTW, if your trying to keep cost low then completely remove the in-floor heat system from your wish list. they are expensive in materiels, installation AND operation and don't let anyone tell different. To be efficient they have to be insulated underneath, often with special foil insulation, run continueosly, and at least 18 -24 hrs before to bring up to the desired temp (doesn't address summer cooling either which will be another cost). They do provide very even nice heat though.  The materiels are usually pretty pricey unless you have a plumber friend who is willing to get them for you cheaply and then install it for you for cheap , which requires EXPENSIVE special tools and fasteners and other parts AND time. Then there is the manifold system design  and trouble shoot/initial setup. You can set them up with on demand water heaters (instead of a boiler or large capacity(70-90gal), high efficiency, waterheater) with recirculating manifolds etc., but it is still a huge cost.  Unlimited budget....hands down winner, budget budget....sorry.    Talk to a local HVAC guy who does replacements and see if you can get a used heat/cool pump system for free when they do a replacement and then it will be on demand. Still might be costly to run though.
KP

[Porsche Monkey]

get a bunch of these and glue em together.

[RB]

WOW...i am really grateful for all the great suggestions.

Let me give a little insight to what this structure will be used for:
Primarily it will be used for bike storage, and projects of a vehicular manner...mainly bikes for now. It will not be used to park our daily drivers, but will be used for maintenance. So a lift will be in my future, but for now i will make sure the lift area is properly reinforced. Sliding barn or hinged doors will be used to reduce cost.
I also have some woodworking projects, but the real equipment is at my fathers house.
A hefty air compressor will be located in a room outside the garage(noise).
Roofing will be metal, and clear corrugated. This is because a second floor will be added in the coming years, so the roof will be removed.
I am planning for a welder, a hood, and an oven for my powdercoating.
My son will be turning 16 in 4 years, so we will have a car project, and i want to make sure i am ready.
I will be running tubing for radiant floor heat, but that is all, i don't have the money to pay for a full system, and do not need to run the system 24/7. I am planning to add some solar panels(hopefully someday) that could supplement the heating, or at least keep it from freezing.

I will definitely post pics, and drawings in the next few months. Along with dollar figures

Economically does it make sense to build a course or two (cinder block) out of the ground so that i can used 8' 2bys? Or is it cheaper to just buy 10' 2 bys.


thanks for all the great suggestions

[the_Journeyman]

+1 on the this thread is awesome comment.  So much good information!

+1 on the 220V comment.  I would wire for one, even if you don't have immediate plans for one

PLENTY of lighting is a must.  I have a 2-tube, 48" overhead light, and it is NOT enough light when working on stuff.  It's plenty for going in and out of the garage, cleaning the garage etc.  I always have to get my work light whenever I am wrenching/detailing etc.

I've also got an idea for hinged shelves/work area that easily gives you extra space to work when you need it, but easily folds up out of the way.

JM

[bluemoco]

Economically does it make sense to build a course or two (cinder block) out of the ground so that i can used 8' 2bys? Or is it cheaper to just buy 10' 2 bys.

Not sure about "economically", but this is a good construction strategy anyway.

I built a 26x40 garage a few years ago.  The extra course of block around the foundation is nice for a couple reasons:  It's more difficult for critters to gnaw their way into the garage, and it's also easier to use my grass trimmer around the perimeter of the building when I mow in the summer.   

Keep us posted on how the project shapes up!  Garages are fun.   

[Grampa]

step one.

consume meth

step two

consume alcohol

step three

wear thrift store clothing

step four

go to any constuction site (this is were steps one through three come into play, as it will allow you to blend in)

step five

steal all construction supplies and tools needed to complete the job ( steps one and two help at this stage)

step six

go to any local home depot  and pick up "day" laborers with the promise to pay them at the end of each day.

step seven

have a friend dress up as  an INS agent or boarder patrol agent, and  towards the end of each day, have him/her stop by your house ( instant payroll savings)

repeat step seven until job is complete




* DISCLAIMER
bp only endorses step two

[Privateer]

I have an idea for a structure that I have plans to build for myself using shipping containers. they are fairly cheap for the sqf and they are steel so manipulating them would not be rocket science. I have also seen people use them as a portion of a structure and built from/around it to enclose the desired sqf.

I was planning to get a Tuff Shed, but then I saw an article about the surplus of shipping containers in the US.  Now that you say this, I'm wondering if I could find a container to put on the side of my house to get all the chemicals, paint, and lawn tools out of my garage...

I don't need a big one, I'm wondering how much an 8-10 foot container would cost compare to a tuff shed..  I live in SoCal, so I don't need any fancy heating systems.. just somewhere to get the chemicals out of the house proper.


Andy

[Grampa]

I was planning to get a Tuff Shed, but then I saw an article about the surplus of shipping containers in the US.  Now that you say this, I'm wondering if I could find a container to put on the side of my house to get all the chemicals, paint, and lawn tools out of my garage...

I don't need a big one, I'm wondering how much an 8-10 foot container would cost compare to a tuff shed..  I live in SoCal, so I don't need any fancy heating systems.. just somewhere to get the chemicals out of the house proper.


Andy

FYI.... I know a guy 


we rent out part of  our shops property to a guy who sells them

all kinds of sizes

and..... we also sell stuff  to a company called Dry Creek Mini Barns..... and thier stuff can be cheaper than the Tuff Shed stuff. (depending on options)