DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

Just to clarify...if I wipe off all of the pin-striping on the tank, I should leave the finish alone.  The color variation I am seeing is due to UV exposure fading the exposed "dark" matte finish?  Time in the sun will even the color out?
Thanks for the current and previous advice regarding touching up the wheel paint.

That's it exactly.

[ducpainter]

DP: I am getting a guy to mill my stock clutch cover and would like to paint it black. Where I work, we have endless amounts of lacquer based flat black. Assuming that the cover is aluminum, should I use vari-prime before painting? What about the lacquer based paint? Good idea or should I look into a different type of paint? Clear coat or no? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!

If you're using DuPont vari-prime will give you good adhesion. I prefer epoxies on all metal.

Lacquer is not the best choice due to a lack of solvent resistance, and also I don't believe lacquer can be used over vari-prime, or epoxy for that matter, without sanding. You'd have to look at the tech-sheet.

The absolute best system I've found is urethane over epoxy.

Works for the gubmint, the military, NASA, and me.

[lazylightnin717]

If you're using DuPont vari-prime will give you good adhesion. I prefer epoxies on all metal.

Lacquer is not the best choice due to a lack of solvent resistance, and also I don't believe lacquer can be used over vari-prime, or epoxy for that matter, without sanding. You'd have to look at the tech-sheet.

The absolute best system I've found is urethane over epoxy.

Works for the gubmint, the military, NASA, and me.

I work in the stage-building industry and we use vari-prime with flat black lacquer on all aluminum. (soon to be illegal) It is quick and easy. I thought that the purpose of vari-prime was to apply the paint to the primer with it not fully cured so that the paint has something to bond to. Am I wrong?

I have sprayed epoxy paint. If you ever see Cirque du Soleil, check out the totally awesome gold! When I did that, I simply cleaned the surface with denatured alcohol and applied the paint directly to the aluminum. I was looking through our paint room and found Bulldog adhesion promoter. What if I sanded the clutch cover, applied the Bulldog, painted with an epoxy and clear coated? Thanks a bunch for the advice.

[ducpainter]

I work in the stage-building industry and we use vari-prime with flat black lacquer on all aluminum. (soon to be illegal) It is quick and easy. I thought that the purpose of vari-prime was to apply the paint to the primer with it not fully cured so that the paint has something to bond to. Am I wrong?

I have sprayed epoxy paint. If you ever see Cirque du Soleil, check out the totally awesome gold! When I did that, I simply cleaned the surface with denatured alcohol and applied the paint directly to the aluminum. I was looking through our paint room and found Bulldog adhesion promoter. What if I sanded the clutch cover, applied the Bulldog, painted with an epoxy and clear coated? Thanks a bunch for the advice.

I'd skip the bulldog.

What kind of clear over the epoxy?

[lazylightnin717]

The clear coat that we currently have at work is an acrylic lacquer. Ratio is 1:1 with lacquer thinner. Not sure how durable it is but when I applied it directly to polished steel, it flaked right off. That was where to Bulldog came into play.... A little bit of light grit sand paper would help out eh?

Stopped at an Auto-Zone on the way home from work today and took a look at the selection of paint. There wasn't a whole lot to choose from. They had 2 types of clear in rattle cans: acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel. Not sure if I am sold on either.

[ducpainter]

The clear coat that we currently have at work is an acrylic lacquer. Ratio is 1:1 with lacquer thinner. Not sure how durable it is but when I applied it directly to polished steel, it flaked right off. That was where to Bulldog came into play.... A little bit of light grit sand paper would help out eh?

Stopped at an Auto-Zone on the way home from work today and took a look at the selection of paint. There wasn't a whole lot to choose from. They had 2 types of clear in rattle cans: acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel. Not sure if I am sold on either.

Lacquer won't hold up all that well to gas.

It's better than un-catalyzed enamel but not great.

It won't wash off but may stain.

[scott_araujo]

There are 2K clear coats in rattle can.  You use the cap to pop something in the bottom which allows the two components to combine.  Then shake to mix.  You have a certain amount of time to spray before the cure has gone too far.  I haven't seen them in local shops but you can get them on the net.

I think it was on TOB where someone had spent a lot of time on a home done rattle can paint job.  They then painted the tank with a 2K rattle can clear and were really glad a few weeks later when they spilled gas all over it.  I'm guessing the spray pattern from the tip isn't the greatest but you can always wet sand/rub it out if you want a better finish.  If you're going rattle can clear to protect I'd go for one of these.

Scott

[ducpainter]

There are 2K clear coats in rattle can.  You use the cap to pop something in the bottom which allows the two components to combine.  Then shake to mix.  You have a certain amount of time to spray before the cure has gone too far.  I haven't seen them in local shops but you can get them on the net.

I think it was on TOB where someone had spent a lot of time on a home done rattle can paint job.  They then painted the tank with a 2K rattle can clear and were really glad a few weeks later when they spilled gas all over it.  I'm guessing the spray pattern from the tip isn't the greatest but you can always wet sand/rub it out if you want a better finish.  If you're going rattle can clear to protect I'd go for one of these.

Scott

If you use a urethane clear over lacquer special steps must be taken or it won't stick.

If you clear over rattle can enamel it has to be done wet on wet, or the enamel must dry thoroughly to avoid lifting.

[scott_araujo]

Thanks DP.

[lazylightnin717]

I dug deeper into the paint room and found about 5 gallons of Dupont clear coat on a shelf. The word on the street is that it has been sitting there for a long time. Not sure if it goes bad after a certain amount of time but it is automotive clear coat. The label says to use thinner for cutting it. Any experience with it? It is Dupont 380S

[ducpainter]

I dug deeper into the paint room and found about 5 gallons of Dupont clear coat on a shelf. The word on the street is that it has been sitting there for a long time. Not sure if it goes bad after a certain amount of time but it is automotive clear coat. The label says to use thinner for cutting it. Any experience with it? It is Dupont 380S

It's a lacquer clear.

It isn't going to change the lacquer paint you want to use.

Keep in mind they used lacquer on cars for years.

It isn't horrible stuff, and I prefer it over any other uncatalyzed product.

It's just not as good as the 2K stuff available today.

[Gofaster2]

Duc-Painter- What primer-surfacer are you using over PPG's DP ?

also I have a 2006 S2r that needs a color change- what process do you recommend? Do I need to strip all the plastic to bare or just remove the vinyl stripe and recoat-clear?

[ducpainter]

Duc-Painter- What primer-surfacer are you using over PPG's DP ?

also I have a 2006 S2r that needs a color change- what process do you recommend? Do I need to strip all the plastic to bare or just remove the vinyl stripe and recoat-clear?

I've been using a few, but I like HOK KD-2000.

I don't strip unless there is a problem.

Just pull the stripe feather and prime.

I probably wouldn't use DP on plastic. It won't stick any better and there's no corrosion involved.

Have fun.

[Gofaster2]

agreed- I only use dp over bare metal or areas that are going to need filler. I have been using NCP260 for years now and no issues with it but just was wondering if there was any thing better/easier.

[ducpainter]

agreed- I only use dp over bare metal or areas that are going to need filler. I have been using NCP260 for years now and no issues with it but just was wondering if there was any thing better/easier.

The PPG primers and surfacers are crazy expensive. Everything PPG is these days.

I haven't used the NCP much.

If you get a chance try the HOK KD. It's a hybrid epoxy. It has good adhesion and corrosion resistance. It is recommended over bare metal. It also fills like mad and drys to sand in 3 hours at 70.