DIY Painting Tips

[stopintime]

............

On a side note: I'm having some issues getting the large rubber grommets out of the rearsets. Is there any easy way of removing them? Will bead blasting them pregnant dog them up?

S*R rearsets? If so, they can't be removed and put back. At least that was the conclusion CycleCat arrived at after trying, so their rear sets came with new ones, installed. YMMV

I'm no expert, but covering them up would be required, no?

[ducpainter]

Welllllll..... I'm not sure what DCC is. I can tell you that the ratio we have been using is 8:6:1 and we've been applying it directly to steel. Would Vari-prime be an acceptable primer?

On a side note: I'm having some issues getting the large rubber grommets out of the rearsets. Is there any easy way of removing them? Will bead blasting them pregnant dog them up?

DCC is Concepts SS urethane. I'm not familiar with that mix ratio, maybe Deltron?, and unless the product is listed as a DTM product you're cheating.

I don't use vari-prime because of it's limited corrosion resistance once the finish becomes damaged. It will work to keep the aluminum from causing adhesion issues. You should try the DP primer

I started using the DP primers after I did a stint in a fabrication shop doing industrial work. Blast/chromate/epoxy/urethane is what the military uses and it's bullet proof. Since chromate is basically illegal now I just eliminate it from my process and prime immediately after blast

[jc.cyberdemon]

we use veri-prime over bare metal and then a 2k primer over that,i never guarantee rust when a customer ask how long a rust repair
will last i tell them not as long as they want it to, rust will always return, spraying bed liner over it dosn't really help and i have never found it to
last too long

[lazylightnin717]

Rearsets are at the blaster. They only do grit blasting so we will see how it turns out. The paint was brittle to begin with and I can't see it being any problem removing it.

As for what I am using. This should give you a better idea. I forgot to take a pic of the reducer but I'm sure you know what that looks like....

S*R rearsets? If so, they can't be removed and put back. At least that was the conclusion CycleCat arrived at after trying, so their rear sets came with new ones, installed. YMMV

I'm no expert, but covering them up would be required, no?

They are off an '02 S4 which is the DSS so there are 4 grommets that wouldn't budge. I said make the beast with two backs it and sent 'em off to get blasted. Guess we'll see how it turns out. Surprisingly, they weren't brittle so I think they'll make it!

[ducpainter]

Rearsets are at the blaster. They only do grit blasting so we will see how it turns out. The paint was brittle to begin with and I can't see it being any problem removing it.

As for what I am using. This should give you a better idea. I forgot to take a pic of the reducer but I'm sure you know what that looks like....




They are off an '02 S4 which is the DSS so there are 4 grommets that wouldn't budge. I said make the beast with two backs it and sent 'em off to get blasted. Guess we'll see how it turns out. Surprisingly, they weren't brittle so I think they'll make it!

Delstar needs a primer.

we use veri-prime over bare metal and then a 2k primer over that,i never guarantee rust when a customer ask how long a rust repair
will last i tell them not as long as they want it to, rust will always return, spraying bed liner over it dosn't really help and i have never found it to
last too long

I don't disagree, but we're not talking rusty stuff.

Epoxy does a real good job of stopping rust creep under primer once the finish has been chipped.

In the long run rust always wins.

[korey]

Kind of a pretty basic question but since you're a painter maybe you can help. I don't have a paint gun so I paint things with rattle cans and it usually comes out good because I put in the needed time (prep, paint technique, wet sand, polish with meguiars m105/m205 on a DA polisher). I've been using lacquer clear, mainly because I didn't know the difference between enamel and lacquer and just went with whatever. Now I've been reading and people say enamel is a much stronger paint and that it doesn't require you to wetsand/buff like lacquer. I like wetsanding/buffing as it is IMO an easy way for me to fix any mistakes. Now here is my question, people say the enamel is harder to buff. Which worries me because I'm not sure if that means I'll be able to remove the wetsanding marks (2000 grit) with just a DA and foam pads?

Heres two things I rattle canned just for reference
(front fender)

recleared side pieces, right is before wetsanding/polishing

[ducpainter]

Kind of a pretty basic question but since you're a painter maybe you can help. I don't have a paint gun so I paint things with rattle cans and it usually comes out good because I put in the needed time (prep, paint technique, wet sand, polish with meguiars m105/m205 on a DA polisher). I've been using lacquer clear, mainly because I didn't know the difference between enamel and lacquer and just went with whatever. Now I've been reading and people say enamel is a much stronger paint and that it doesn't require you to wetsand/buff like lacquer. I like wetsanding/buffing as it is IMO an easy way for me to fix any mistakes. Now here is my question, people say the enamel is harder to buff. Which worries me because I'm not sure if that means I'll be able to remove the wetsanding marks (2000 grit) with just a DA and foam pads?

Heres two things I rattle canned just for reference
(front fender)

recleared side pieces, right is before wetsanding/polishing

Nice work...I started painting bicycles a hundred years ago with rattle cans.

Good call on the enamel...you won't be able to buff rattle can enamel.

If you can still buy lacquer in rattle cans stick with it to best fit your process.

2 part enamels and urethanes are actually more durable than lacquer and when you can get them on the part without dirt you don't need to buff as the gloss is in the can. The problem with them is they stay wet for an hour and it's 'almost' impossible to keep the dirt out of them so you end up buffing anyway. They also require a more involved set pf equipment to apply with the desired results for flow and gloss.

[Hank025]

Ducpainter, great thread! Lots of info here.
I searched within the thread and couldnt find an answer about painting Gel Coated Fiberglass.

I'm purchasing a fairing off of ebay and it is coming as gel coated white fiberglass.

Thinking the 400 sanding, primer, then a color with clear coat? Do I need something stronger to get the gel coat off first?

Some StarWars forum suggested taking the gel coat off with brake fluid (no way im going to do that).

[ducpainter]

Ducpainter, great thread! Lots of info here.
I searched within the thread and couldnt find an answer about painting Gel Coated Fiberglass.

I'm purchasing a fairing off of ebay and it is coming as gel coated white fiberglass.

Thinking the 400 sanding, primer, then a color with clear coat? Do I need something stronger to get the gel coat off first?

Some StarWars forum suggested taking the gel coat off with brake fluid (no way im going to do that).

Don't take the gel-coat off, and never use brake fluid for anything but brakes. 

Gel coat is there for a good reason. It hides the weave and fills imperfections in the lay-up. When sanding make sure there are no voids that can break open and ruin your job when you're done.

I would sand with 180, prime, sand with 400, seal and paint.

If you are using spray cans you can skip the sealer. It's more for coverage of top coats and adhesion. Reds can be strongly affected by undercoat color, so if you're going with red it might be advisable to put a coat or two of white on first to get better coverage.

[Hank025]

Thanks for the advice! I will post pictures when complete!

[stopintime]

Headlight chrome ----> black

1K etch primer ok as primer?

(U-POL ACID #8)

[ducpainter]

Headlight chrome ----> black

1K etch primer ok as primer?

(U-POL ACID #8)

Should work...scuff it up first with 180 so the chrome no longer shines.

[wingnut]

DP -

I'm planning on repainting my 1100 tank skins (they are the stock matte silver color), fender, and tail section.  There is no repair work to be done just a color/decal change.  I'll be using PPG paint, an HPLV gun, and a compressor.

Questions:

Can I just wet sand with 600 and shoot my base coat & clear coat or should I use an adhesion promoter and primer as well? 

Is urethane acceptable to use on the tank? 

Regarding new decals, am I correct in that once the paint is completed and ready for clear, I apply the decals and then clear the entire piece?

I did my best to review this entire thread and found a few similar questions but I want to make sure I'm doing this right for my exact application.  I apologize if I missed where this has been asked before.

Thanks for your time!

[stopintime]

.......... 

Regarding new decals, am I correct in that once the paint is completed and ready for clear, I apply the decals and then clear the entire piece?
........

Give the decals a day or two - they shrink a little (IME )

"and now back to you, DP"

[ducpainter]

DP -

I'm planning on repainting my 1100 tank skins (they are the stock matte silver color), fender, and tail section.  There is no repair work to be done just a color/decal change.  I'll be using PPG paint, an HPLV gun, and a compressor.

Questions:

Can I just wet sand with 600 and shoot my base coat & clear coat or should I use an adhesion promoter and primer as well? 

Is urethane acceptable to use on the tank? 

Regarding new decals, am I correct in that once the paint is completed and ready for clear, I apply the decals and then clear the entire piece?

I did my best to review this entire thread and found a few similar questions but I want to make sure I'm doing this right for my exact application.  I apologize if I missed where this has been asked before.

Thanks for your time!

The decals need to be removed and the clear feathered back. You'll need to smooth things up or you'll see edges.

I prime at least that area and block sand smooth...400 dry or 600 wet

I don't usually use adhesion promoters unless you sand through the color to bare plastic.

I use sealers to get a uniform base color and to improve adhesion of the base coat.

Decals need to be applied after the color dries sufficiently to stop gassing. Shop conditions will dictate that, but I never do it sooner than 24 hours.

Therein lies the rub...PPG base coats need to be cleared within 24 hours, and that is pushing it IMO.

I use an inter-coat clear. Follow directions...some brands claim an indefinite 'open' time and others need to be scuffed.

Apply decals, wet or dry, and you can clear as soon as any application fluid has evaporated completely.

Give the decals a day or two - they shrink a little (IME )

"and now back to you, DP"

Lars,

I've had every possible problem with decals, and I don't think shrinkage was one of them. Perhaps the translation leaves something to be desired. Decals suck...I usually make masks and spray the stuff I can.

To the OP...do you have a booth to work in?