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Author Topic: DIY Painting Tips  (Read 398878 times)
Josh_357
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« Reply #585 on: November 02, 2011, 07:20:02 AM »

My pleasure.  Thanks for the info on that company.

To elaborate on what I did with R&Ec was I called them up and they had in an old book somewhere a chip of PPG 473.101 but no formulation. They scanned the chip and mixed up in their paint line and did a custom can for me. Worked out real good as far as color and paint application was concerned. The decal issue was my bad.

Prices aren't a whole lot better than Colorrite, but I've used em in the past and they're great to work with. Color was 28 a can I think for the custom mix, and clear was as listed on site.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #586 on: November 03, 2011, 02:51:19 AM »

Based on the material in the link, Im going to assume that they packaged DBC in the can as a base.

It's good stuff. It's what I use.

I'm guessing you put it on too heavy for the amount of time you gave it to dry.
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stopintime
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« Reply #587 on: November 13, 2011, 12:29:28 PM »


Blasted aluminum valve cover - want a natural unpainted look, but I want it to stay nice.

Any clear coat that can take the heat/roadspray combo?

 Dolph
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #588 on: November 13, 2011, 03:19:07 PM »

I'd try this...http://www.imperialrestoration.com/products.php?category=2

The valve covers don't get all that hot. Wink
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


stopintime
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« Reply #589 on: November 13, 2011, 03:46:19 PM »

I'd try this...http://www.imperialrestoration.com/products.php?category=2

The valve covers don't get all that hot. Wink

Just $ 160 locally  Shocked

Maybe I'll get them anodized instead.....
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ducpainter
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« Reply #590 on: November 13, 2011, 04:00:39 PM »

Just $ 160 locally  Shocked

Maybe I'll get them anodized instead.....
That's too much.

It's $36 and change here for a pint.

Anodizing will work too.
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"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


sejman
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« Reply #591 on: November 18, 2011, 07:22:29 AM »

I'm planning on painting my stock (chopped) low-mount cans (2001 M900Sie) black with a high-temp wrinkle finish.  I think this will be a tougher finish and easier to keep clean and looking nice than a plain matte or semi-gloss.  Anyone have any experience with these automotive wrinkle finishes?  They are commonly used for valve covers, etc.  I figure prep is just good cleaning with brake cleaner or alcohol, then rough up with scotch brite pad and clean again.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #592 on: November 18, 2011, 12:53:25 PM »

I would think wrinkle finish would be harder to clean.

BTW the mufflers don't get very hot. If a heat cure is necessary it might take several heat cycles and the paint typically stays soft until cured.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


setha
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« Reply #593 on: December 06, 2011, 05:15:39 PM »

Do you have any recommendations on glow in the dark paint? I see different stuff at the box stores but thought I would see if you have any advice for something that is more automotive then arts and craft. We are kicking around some ideas and thought it would be neat as an accent... would make it very easy to find in the driveway after dark as well waytogo
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ducpainter
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« Reply #594 on: December 06, 2011, 05:21:37 PM »

Do you have any recommendations on glow in the dark paint? I see different stuff at the box stores but thought I would see if you have any advice for something that is more automotive then arts and craft. We are kicking around some ideas and thought it would be neat as an accent... would make it very easy to find in the driveway after dark as well waytogo
There was a thread here somewhere.

That effect isn't in my repertoire.

Sorry.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Mike Qube
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« Reply #595 on: December 07, 2011, 02:21:51 PM »

I'm going to paint my tank over the winter and was thinking of leaving a stripe of bare metal. I'll be using the 2k clear http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
Can this go on bare metal?
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #596 on: December 07, 2011, 02:36:59 PM »

I'm going to paint my tank over the winter and was thinking of leaving a stripe of bare metal. I'll be using the 2k clear http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
Can this go on bare metal?
It isn't supposed to.

You might try doing the bare metal area in POR glisten PC  http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/

Then mask that area and do the rest.

You'll end up with an edge at the masking line that will need to be filled with your 2K clear
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Mike Qube
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« Reply #597 on: December 08, 2011, 08:41:41 AM »

It isn't supposed to.

You might try doing the bare metal area in POR glisten PC  http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/

Then mask that area and do the rest.

You'll end up with an edge at the masking line that will need to be filled with your 2K clear

Thanks, that looks like it should do the trick. After I apply that on the bare metal and it cures, I was thinking of doing a thin pinstripe along the masking lines. After I do that, can I 2k clear over everything or should I not 2k over the POR?

Also, what do you recommend for removing the original paint? is there a chemical stripper that would make things easier on me than sanding?

I figure while I'm at it, I should do the POR15 coating on the inside of the tank. Is there a kit that you recommend? I'm assuming it would probably be best to do it after I strip the tank and before I paint?
« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 08:54:36 AM by Mike Qube » Logged
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #598 on: December 08, 2011, 02:41:33 PM »

Thanks, that looks like it should do the trick. After I apply that on the bare metal and it cures, I was thinking of doing a thin pinstripe along the masking lines. After I do that, can I 2k clear over everything or should I not 2k over the POR?

Also, what do you recommend for removing the original paint? is there a chemical stripper that would make things easier on me than sanding?

I figure while I'm at it, I should do the POR15 coating on the inside of the tank. Is there a kit that you recommend? I'm assuming it would probably be best to do it after I strip the tank and before I paint?
Here's the rub...

If you apply a stripe over the edge it may show through vinyl. It will definitely show through a painted stripe. I would clear after the color, sand, and then stripe and re-clear.

I like Kleen-Strip 'Aircraft' stripper. It may not be available in all states.

You can do the coating at any stage before paint. After stripping is probably a good call. Don't forget to braze the hinge before you coat.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Langanobob
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« Reply #599 on: December 09, 2011, 02:05:09 AM »

Thanks, that looks like it should do the trick. After I apply that on the bare metal and it cures, I was thinking of doing a thin pinstripe along the masking lines. After I do that, can I 2k clear over everything or should I not 2k over the POR?

Also, what do you recommend for removing the original paint? is there a chemical stripper that would make things easier on me than sanding?

I figure while I'm at it, I should do the POR15 coating on the inside of the tank. Is there a kit that you recommend? I'm assuming it would probably be best to do it after I strip the tank and before I paint?

I like the idea of a bare metal strip with striping along the line.  Hope you can post some pictures when it's finished.  About POR tank sealant, they sell a kit with the sealer and their own cleaner and prep or you can buy just the sealer for less money.  The preparation is very important and you should read, probably twice, the instructions before starting.  I use my own cleaner and metal prep since I have that kind of stuff laying around but if you don't have much experience with it, it's far better to pay the extra and  buy the complete kit from POR.  The only times I've heard of POR 15 not working right is when someone didn't read or follow the instructions or tried to take short cuts.
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