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Author Topic: The PCV with Autotune thread......  (Read 56270 times)
ChrisH
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« Reply #90 on: March 27, 2011, 07:21:04 PM »

Anthony from pro italia is reflashing my ecu with no o2 sensors, and custom maps for my filter and exhaust. I'd like to get auto tune eventually since a true ecu tune is hard to come by for now. I just left the stock rev limit.
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ggemelos
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« Reply #91 on: August 08, 2011, 07:46:36 AM »

I just ordered the Rexxer ECU map to remove my O2 sensors and was interested in going the Power Commander auto tune route.  I noticed that on their website, Power Commander now lists a dual channel auto tuner (AT-300) for the M1100.  In this thread people have been using the AT-100, meant for Harleys, and modifying it for the Ducati.  Does anyone have any experience with the AT-300?  Will it replace the stock O2 sensors like people have been doing with the modded AT-100?  Thanks for any feedback.   
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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #92 on: August 08, 2011, 09:09:57 AM »

I just ordered the Rexxer ECU map to remove my O2 sensors and was interested in going the Power Commander auto tune route.  I noticed that on their website, Power Commander now lists a dual channel auto tuner (AT-300) for the M1100.  In this thread people have been using the AT-100, meant for Harleys, and modifying it for the Ducati.  Does anyone have any experience with the AT-300?  Will it replace the stock O2 sensors like people have been doing with the modded AT-100?  Thanks for any feedback.   

The AT-100 was the "original" auto-tune that had two sensors(one sensor for each o2 sensor bung on exhaust) and was meant strictly for harleys. They power connector on the AT-100 had a universal harley plug. The AT-200 was released the same time for sport bikes but only had one sensor.

Later, power commander released the AT-300 which is basically the same thing as the AT-100 but it does not have the universal harley plug for power, just a bunch of loose wires to wire into whatever bike you want.

All you do if you get the AT-100 is cut off the plug, and wire into a power source.

The AT-300 is more expensive, and you can find the AT-100 cheaper. Just cut off the power connection, and wire up into a power source(I used the tail light) as well as a ground. And, if you can find one used from a harley guy, you can get them on the cheap. But in all my searching, the AT-100 was cheaper than the 300, and works exactly the same, just requires cutting the plug off.
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« Reply #93 on: August 09, 2011, 03:13:33 AM »

^^ Yup, what DoWorkSon said waytogo.

Cut the Harley loom plug off your AT-100 and you now have an AT-300. 

And a usleless free plug. 

All for less $$ than the AT-300  Grin.
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« Reply #94 on: August 14, 2011, 10:22:14 AM »

So I got my PCV and AT100 and I am trying to wire everything up.  It looks like the PCV does not need a connection to a power supply, just a ground connection, I am guessing that it gets power from one of the pass through connections.  The auto tuner on the other hand says to connect it to ground (suggests negative battery terminal) and switched power (suggests tail light).  It also says that it can draw up to 5A when warming up the sensors.  Given that others here have used to tail light, I am guessing it can handle the extra 5A draw.  Has anyone seen any issues with too much draw on the tail light circuit?

As for the actual connection, can you skip the negative terminal of the battery and just connect both the positive and negative for the auto tuner to the tail light circuit?  Where is the most convenient place/method to tap into the tail light circuit?  Thanks in advance for any help. 
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« Reply #95 on: August 15, 2011, 02:28:43 AM »

So I got my PCV and AT100 and I am trying to wire everything up.  It looks like the PCV does not need a connection to a power supply, just a ground connection, I am guessing that it gets power from one of the pass through connections.  The auto tuner on the other hand says to connect it to ground (suggests negative battery terminal) and switched power (suggests tail light).  It also says that it can draw up to 5A when warming up the sensors.  Given that others here have used to tail light, I am guessing it can handle the extra 5A draw.  Has anyone seen any issues with too much draw on the tail light circuit?

As for the actual connection, can you skip the negative terminal of the battery and just connect both the positive and negative for the auto tuner to the tail light circuit?  Where is the most convenient place/method to tap into the tail light circuit?  Thanks in advance for any help. 
My Autotune is plummed into the tail light loom on the rhs close to the end of the rear subframe where the loom divides out - no issues at all with load.  And its ground wire is located along with the PCV's frame ground.
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« Reply #96 on: November 18, 2011, 02:26:17 AM »

UN, I remember you had an issue with the Recces and the lack of a service indicator reset function....
Not sure if it has been covered here recently, and short of time to go back and read this whole post...just serviced my bike for the first time since fitting the Recces , used the service reset function and it worked a treat....

Hoping yours is resolved.


Cheers


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« Reply #97 on: November 19, 2011, 12:06:53 AM »

UN, I remember you had an issue with the Recces and the lack of a service indicator reset function....
Not sure if it has been covered here recently, and short of time to go back and read this whole post...just serviced my bike for the first time since fitting the Recces , used the service reset function and it worked a treat....

Hoping yours is resolved.

Cheers
Wrong thread mate.  This is PCV/Autotune. 

But if you're talking about the Rexxer service reset function, then yup, it was all resolved in the the last firmware release and covered here >>  Rexxer Service Reset
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« Reply #98 on: November 19, 2011, 10:10:15 AM »

what A/F ratio were you using when you set the Autotune up?

Does it have a 'map' of throttle/rpm to set values in?
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« Reply #99 on: November 19, 2011, 02:04:58 PM »

what A/F ratio were you using when you set the Autotune up?
Lazy Speeddog didnt read the older posts, your answer is on page 3.   Twice   cheeky Wink.   

But I'll save you the bother, here it is again  Grin   >>  Ungeheuer M1100s AFRs   <<   I've since slightly modified the AFR table... running a wee bit less lean in the 3Krpm > 4Krpm range.

Does it have a 'map' of throttle/rpm to set values in?
Yes.

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Raux
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« Reply #100 on: November 19, 2011, 11:14:38 PM »

Man what is it with people amd their inability to search  laughingdp
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Speeddog
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« Reply #101 on: November 20, 2011, 10:59:25 AM »

Lazy Speeddog didnt read the older posts, your answer is on page 3.   Twice   cheeky Wink.   

But I'll save you the bother, here it is again  Grin   >>  Ungeheuer M1100s AFRs   <<   I've since slightly modified the AFR table... running a wee bit less lean in the 3Krpm > 4Krpm range.
Yes.


Eh, 4 pages back.  coffee

How much less lean are you running in the 3k-4k rpm/5-20% zone?

I've been running a Daytona Sensors WEGO II wideband O2 for a while, and now have the ability to change maps in my  MicroTec ECU (replaced my dead FIM U59).

Ran fine with the supplied map, but fuel mileage less than I wanted.
I've been progressively leaning it out.
I've found the engine seems less happy with the F/A above 13.5.
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« Reply #102 on: November 20, 2011, 02:49:22 PM »

Quote
I've been running a Daytona Sensors WEGO II wideband O2 for a while

Have you done any logging w it?
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« Reply #103 on: November 21, 2011, 02:46:44 AM »

How much less lean are you running in the 3k-4k rpm/5-20% zone?
My mistake.  That AFR table is the one I've been using for a quite while now.  I did play around with the AFRs in that part-throttle lower-mid rpms "cruise" zone for a while.... but that is the AFR table I finally settled on.

I've found the engine seems less happy with the F/A above 13.5.
Less happy if it's richer than 13.5, or less happy if its leaner than 13.5?  
I'm assuming leaner.....  
« Last Edit: November 21, 2011, 03:07:58 AM by ungeheuer » Logged

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« Reply #104 on: November 21, 2011, 12:21:17 PM »

Have you done any logging w it?

I did a bit of logging with it right after I bought it a couple years ago.
I had no way to adjust the FIM ECU I had then, so didn't do much more.
Now I've got to see if my serial-port laptop still works.

My mistake.  That AFR table is the one I've been using for a quite while now.  I did play around with the AFRs in that part-throttle lower-mid rpms "cruise" zone for a while.... but that is the AFR table I finally settled on.
Less happy if it's richer than 13.5, or less happy if its leaner than 13.5? 
I'm assuming leaner..... 

Yes, leaner than 13.5 the engine gets a bit 'surgy'.

Not sure how comparable out AFR numbers are, I've not been able to compare wideband O2 sensors on the same machine.
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