Stripped...

[Jarvicious]

It may not hurt to give the vice grips a tap once you have them latched on to the bolts either.  If they moved in the right direction, give the vice grips a tap or two in the other (tightening them back up) then loosen again.  I advise being very careful, though, about the strength of the taps.  You basically want the pliers and hammer to act like an impact driver, so little baby taps starting towards the bolt and working your way towards the handle of the vise grips so you don't shear the bolt or strip off those flats you made. 

P.S. - You can use whatever baby hammer you have lying around.  A 3 lb sledge is not necessary, and dare I said frowned upon

[the_Journeyman]

Finesse is going to be be necessary with bolt #2.  I moved it 1/16 of a turn maybe.  I sprayed it with PB and quit for the night.  I'll remember the slow working + tapping.  I did get the rear-most of the two bolts free and out.  It's nicely galled.  Pics later.

JM

[scott_araujo]

Progress!  Well done!  Yeah, now that it's moving more lube, more patience.  It has some space to seep in there now.  How do the threads in the case look on the on that came out?

Scott

[the_Journeyman]

Haven't looked at the case yet, but the threads on the bolt were still there but showing come galling.  I'm sure a little cleanup on the threads might be in order.  I'll post a pic of the bolt tomorrow ~

JM

[Monsterlover]

Run a tap down the hole to chase the threads and you'll be good to go.

[Speeddog]

Be careful how far in you go with the tap, you can strike oil.

[Monsterlover]

People have done that?!?!

What's wrong with stopping when the tap hits bottom or the last thread and then backing it out?

I shouldn't talk. I've had a tap on the end of a 1/2 drive impact gun

It was a big pipe tap but still

[Duck-Stew]

I'm the one Speeddog's referring to above.  I did run the tap in until it stopped, unfortunately for me the engine casing was SUPER thin and we heard a tiny metallic pop sound.  Put the rearset bolt in & went home.  Next morning there was a small oil puddle under the rearsets.

Ended up expoy-ing in a double-ended stud and it's been leak free since.

Back to the bolt at hand:  If it were me, I'd get a LOT of heat into the engine case surrounding the remaining bolt.  Heat makes things expand, so why heat the steel bolt so that it expands into the engine case?  Also for consideration: Aluminum conducts heat better than steel and the case is much larger than the bolt is so a LOT of heat will be necessary.

Also, when the case is hot, use the penetrating oil then as it will work better (when it's not smoking up the whole garage) when there's larger space between the bolt & case.

Just be really careful with oil and fire...  Nobody wants to read about how you USED to have a garage.....and eyebrows!

[He Man]

A trick ive seen but never used was to heat the bolt up and put a piecve of wax to it. The heat will draw the wax in and act as a dry lube.

[scott_araujo]

Be careful how far in you go with the tap, you can strike oil.

There's a special type of tap called a bottoming tap.  It's not pointed, it's got a flat bottom and threads all the way to the end.  It's made just for tapping blind holes all the way to the bottom.

Scott

[erkishhorde]

I'm the one Speeddog's referring to above.  I did run the tap in until it stopped, unfortunately for me the engine casing was SUPER thin and we heard a tiny metallic pop sound.  Put the rearset bolt in & went home.  Next morning there was a small oil puddle under the rearsets.

Ended up expoy-ing in a double-ended stud and it's been leak free since.

I can vouch for the leak free. 

[Monsterlover]

A trick ive seen but never used was to heat the bolt up and put a piecve of wax to it. The heat will draw the wax in and act as a dry lube.

This does work.

heating the area around the bolt and spraying pb will do the same thing.

Capillary action will draw it in.

[the_Journeyman]

Ok, Here's the pic of the one I got out.  Threads in the case look in, there's a little debris in there, but it's dry and loose so some air will take it out.

The bolt:


Now, for the bad news.  Heat, penetrating oil, tapping etc did not move the bolt.  I'm marking a drill bit so I don't go too deep and drilling out the center of the bolt.  The bolt snapped off about 3mm inside the case, so there's nothing left to grab.

Once I get the center of the bolt drilled out, would it still be ok to heat the case before I used something like an easy-out?

JM

[the_Journeyman]

After removing most of the center of the bolt, I have a slightly off-center hole.  It looks like, when looking into the hole, the bolt just oxidized badly, like there was some water or something trapped in the space between the end of the bolt and the bottom of the hole.  Putting the easy-out on the remains of the bolt is just chipping away at the remaining bits of the bolt.

JM

[ducpainter]

After removing most of the center of the bolt, I have a slightly off-center hole.  It looks like, when looking into the hole, the bolt just oxidized badly, like there was some water or something trapped in the space between the end of the bolt and the bottom of the hole.  Putting the easy-out on the remains of the bolt is just chipping away at the remaining bits of the bolt.

JM

I've had luck grinding a punch at an angle and removing the remains by 'folding' it into the middle and then using a pick or needle nose pliers to pull the piece out.